Reddit Reddit reviews 120 To 3000 Assorted Grit Sandpaper for Wood Furniture Finishing, Metal Sanding and Automotive Polishing, Dry or Wet Sanding, 9 x 3.6 Inch, 36-Sheet

We found 14 Reddit comments about 120 To 3000 Assorted Grit Sandpaper for Wood Furniture Finishing, Metal Sanding and Automotive Polishing, Dry or Wet Sanding, 9 x 3.6 Inch, 36-Sheet. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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120 To 3000 Assorted Grit Sandpaper for Wood Furniture Finishing, Metal Sanding and Automotive Polishing, Dry or Wet Sanding, 9 x 3.6 Inch, 36-Sheet
MEETS ALL YOUR NEED - Including 3 sheets of each grit: 120/220/320/400/600/800/1000/1200/1500/2000/2500/3000, total 36 sheets.PREMIUM QUALITY - Made of waterproof silicon carbide, electro coated ensures the grit distributed homogeneously, good for wet and dry sanding.MULTIFUNCTIONAL - Suitable for use in art and craft, wood work, automotive, metal, and plastic applications for buffing and polishing.EASY TO IDENTIFY - The grits of the sandpaper are printed on the back for easy identification.Product size: 9 x 3.6 inches, also can be cut into any smaller size you need easily.
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14 Reddit comments about 120 To 3000 Assorted Grit Sandpaper for Wood Furniture Finishing, Metal Sanding and Automotive Polishing, Dry or Wet Sanding, 9 x 3.6 Inch, 36-Sheet:

u/Sazzzzzzzzzzz · 16 pointsr/mbti
u/ListenHereYouLittleS · 10 pointsr/woodworking

Hand saw . $31.66

Dovetail saw / fine saw $26.97

Japanese hand plane $55.35

Chisels $39.99


Combo Square $9.98

stropping compound $12.95

Sharpening Sandpaper $8.99

$185.89 total (excluding taxes). And you still have some left over for some coffee -- you're going to need some b/c learning to sharpen blades/chisels and turning/using a japanese plane is fairly uphill battle for a beginner. But this list is unquestionably your best bang for your buck.

u/bad-coffee · 8 pointsr/golf

Found an old Ping Anser 3 at a thrift shop for $2.49. So why not!

Materials used:

20 oz Coke $1.75

Pack of assorted wet/dry sandpaper $8 All the grits are packed together, so the sheets all need rinsing before use.

3M scrubby dremel tips. Used a couple of these for hard-to-get areas, but the sandpaper worked much better for the large surfaces.

Brass Black $8


First step was to see how it was under 30+ years of oxidation. 24 hour soak in coke, then hit with a scrubby.

Next came the sanding. LOTS of sanding.

Started with 220, so I didn't take off too much material, and moved up from there - 400/800/1000/1500/2000. A good rinse and dry with an old t-shirt between each grit keeps from scratching up all the hard work.

I was going to go up to 3000 grit, but couldn't keep from scratching it up after 2000. Yeah, I could have buffed it to a mirror shine, but that had a good chance of softening all the edges. I didn't want a 'blobby' putter.

A bit of acetone on a q-tip removed the old sight line.

Next step was an alcohol bath. 99% isopropyl because that's what I had lying around. A hot water rinse and a good shake dry followed.

Into a ziplock bag it went with some of the Brass Black. Squished it around to get even coverage. Rinsed, dried, and left for 24 hours. Then repeat.

In reality, the next step was to sit the putter on my desk and forget to send it back to Ping. But we're gonna skip that step here.

The putter was shipped back to Ping on a Friday. The rep who called was super cool, and said it wouldn't take to long to put a new shaft and grip on and ship it back. Total cost about $61.

This putter is awesome. First round with it and I scored my lowest ever with an 82* (Par 64 course, so it's only bogey golf. But still lowest score for 18!)

Cheers

u/CommunistWitchDr · 5 pointsr/Coffee

Ok, I'll try my best to explain here. It's a long and labor intensive process, but there's no thought involved, and nothing to screw up like with some methods.

First, you're going to need a few supplies
-----

  • Spray adhesive, I used Loctite General Performance Lightweight Bonding adhesive

  • Oil for the sanding, I used 3-IN-ONE oil

  • Sandpaper of several grits, I used a bunch of big packs from Lowes, but a multi-pack like this would be ideal

  • Adhesive remover, I used Goo Gone

  • An X-Acto style knife, I used one I just had laying around so sorry no link

  • Some rags to wipe up the metal filled cutting oil

  • Masking tape

  • The thinnest tape you can possibly find

  • A screwdriver for the burr chamber and another for the burrs themselves. I recommend a torque screwdriver for the burrs, but it's not strictly needed.

    Now, for the chamber sanding
    -----

  1. Cut out 6 squares each of the 220 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit, and 800 grit sandpaper that will fit the entire burr on them. If you like shine and don't mind the time it takes, throw some higher grit in there too.

  2. Take the outer burr carrier out of your grinder, remove the spring from it, and set it aside. Then unscrew the inner burr, you'll be attaching the sandpaper to this burr first.

  3. Take one of the squares of your 220 grit and spray the back with spray adhesive then press your inner burr on it. Wait for it to dry. Then cut off the excess sandpaper from the edges and middle leaving only a ring of it.

  4. Tape your inner burr to the outer burr that's still screwed into the burr carrier with masking tape. Work around the standoff post things.

  5. Apply cutting oil to the sandpaper.

  6. Put the assembly of two burrs in the burr chamber (making sure the spring is out of the carrier) and spin it around with gentle pressure. Take it out from time to time to wipe off the oil and metal. Continue until the sandpaper is worn out.

  7. Repeat 3-6 two more times to use 3 discs. You'll need the Goo Gone to clean the burr to attach the next disc.

  8. Repeat steps 3-7 for each size of sandpaper. You should use 3 discs for at least 220 and 320, and can probably go down from there. Those sizes do most of the work and the rest polish.

    Now your chamber is sanded to be perpendicular with the driveshaft. But your carrier does not perfectly match, not yet.

    Now, for the carrier sanding
    -----

  9. Screw your inner burr back into the grinder. If you have a torque screwdriver that is ideal, but at least try to be even. Unscrew the outer burr from the carrier.

  10. Take one of the squares of your 220 grit and spray the back with spray adhesive then press your outer burr on it. Wait for it to dry. Then cut off the excess sandpaper from the edges and middle leaving only a ring of it.

  11. Tape the outer burr, without carrier, to the inner burr. This will be a massive pain in the ass to pull off and you'll need the thinnest tape you can get. The standoff posts will have to go over the tape this time.

  12. Apply cutting oil to the sandpaper.

  13. Put the carrier over the two burrs that are affixed to the chamber, apply gentle pressure and spin it to sand down the carrier. Same way you did with the chamber sanding.

  14. Repeat with multiple grits and multiple discs of each grit the same way you did with the chamber.

    Your carrier now has a parallel surface to your chamber. Which is also perpendicular to the driveshaft! Congratulations, your grinder is aligned the best it can be this side of a machine shop!

    Final steps and notes
    -----

  • Make sure to clean your grinder before using it.

  • Make sure to flush your grinder with at least a few doses of coffee before using it.

  • When you're doing spray adhesive, have it in a box or something to not make a mess.

  • Rubbing alcohol, acetone, dish soap, etc all do nothing on the spray adhesive. You do need the Goo Gone and will have to run out to a hardware store and buy it like I did if you don't try to skip it.

  • If you opt to use any water on your burrs for cleaning, dry it off right away. The SSP burrs are coated, so it's not as bad as if you did it to Ditting burrs, but still dry em.

  • You can repeat the chamber sanding once the carrier is done for a theoretically slightly more perfect surface, but it's not really necessary.
u/vff · 3 pointsr/lockpicking

One piece of advice, whether you find sandpaper or end up using something equivalent to a much higher grit paper, is to never skip grits. For example, if you want to bring them to a mirror finish it might seem like going from 400 to 2000 would save time over doing 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000, but the more intermediate grits you use, the faster things will go even counting the time to change paper. You'll only need a few swipes with each one. And if 400 doesn't seem to be doing anything at first, don't be afraid to start lower.

Something like this 36 piece incremental set from Amazon for $8 will give you all the grits you'll need.

u/asdfasdf123456789 · 3 pointsr/PipeTobacco

2 pack

assorted pack sand paper

lifetime supply of oxiclean

obsidian oil

edit:
paragon wax for hand polishing smooth pipes
halcyon II for hand polishing rusticated pipes[https://www.ebay.com/itm/Halcyon-II-Wax-for-the-Pipe/323134732335]

just have plenty of pipe cleaners, qtips, and either vodka, rubbing alcohol, or grain alcohol

u/Gabe324 · 3 pointsr/MouseReview

Sandpaper I bought For reference , also i kinda suggest even getting higher grit sandpaper as i still see some scratches on the mouse (barely).

u/exccord · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Came out very well. I am a little picky about it all but considering I spent about an hour doing it (one headlight). I could have easily done another round though and it would have been slightly better but it was getting dark. I would highly recommend sticking with wet sanding all around because dry sanding it will clog up the sandpaper.

I 3d print so I had a bunch of sandpaper, unfortunately not enough of certain grits, but here is a link to the sandpaper I used. One sheet was good for one head light. Cheap and reasonable.

u/Isogen_ · 2 pointsr/cars

You should be able to fix it with some wet sanding (go 400-600-800-1000-2000-3000-polishing compound). You should be able to buy an assortment pack that'll get you the above or similar combination. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Furniture-Finishing-Automotive-Polishing/dp/B01LZ6TG05/ This is a random one, read reviews and pick a good kit.

Make sure to buy sandpaper designed for wet sanding. Let the sand paper do the work, don't push too hard on to the surface. Keep the surface wet with water. The water acts as a lubricant to keep the sandpaper from clogging up as well as controlling the dust.

edit:

Use tape to mask off the edges of the body work so you don't scratch it. I've found electrical tape to work extremely well for this. Once it's sanded and polished, apply a UV sealant or else your lights will start to yellow/haze after a while.

u/TeleTuesday · 1 pointr/woodworking

So for the ScarySharp method, would these work?

There only a couple dollars cheaper than the stone, 3 sheets per grit. How long do you think that would last? I don't mind putting in the work to learn how to use a whetstone or keeping it flat (I've read you can do it on the sidewalk?)

u/fxakira · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I usually buy Sandpaper with assorted grits like these and Wood craft sticks that you can also find in Walmart/Targets (if you're in the US) with some superglue. Just cut the sandpaper to the size that I can wrap it around the wooden stick, superglue it, and go nuts. I can usually go through a whole MG kit with one set of sticks (400/600/800/1200/2000/2400/3000 - I make all of those grits, but most of the time I will only use 800/1200/2000 for most builds) and just make a new set with a new kit.

u/t2231 · 0 pointsr/woodworking

I use sandpaper on a granite stone and am usually sharpening chisels and plane irons. Once you invest the time in getting them scary sharp the first time, maintenance isn't so bad.

My advice on the sandpaper method is:

  • Buy sandpaper strips in a variety pack. I usually get this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZ6TG05/
  • Spend enough time at the lowest grit to achieve the flat back and proper angle quickly.
  • Don't skip grits. Work your way through the progression. It takes a lot longer to go from 120 to directly 400 than it does to go 120/220/320/400.
  • Personally, I invest the time to get only a portion of the back up to a mirror shine. Some people aim for getting the entire chisel/plane back to a mirror. I find this unnecessary. If you focus your efforts on the last inch or so, you'll achieve the desired result more quickly. Don't skip the step of polishing the back. You can only do as good as the highest grit on the back. If you sand the back to 400 and sand the bevel to 1200, you only have a 400-grit level sharpness.
  • Use a good honing guide to easily get the desired angle.

    Here is an article by Rollie Johnson on the subject: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/02/27/simple-sharpening-cart. You don't need four stones, and you don't need a cart. I do find the camellia oil helpful, but I have also had good success with water and with Windex.