Reddit Reddit reviews 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape, 12" squares (pack of 6)

We found 19 Reddit comments about 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape, 12" squares (pack of 6). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Adhesive Transfer Tape
Adhesive Tapes
Tapes, Adhesives & Sealants
Industrial & Scientific
3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape, 12
High speed processing of parts in the medical, telecommunications and electronics markets (medical components, durable labels, flexible circuits).Bonding graphic overlays for membrane switches and for bonding the complete switch to the equipment surface.Bonding metal nameplates and rating plates in the aerospace, medical and industrial equipment, automotive, appliance and electronic markets.Excellent resistance to harsh environments; this adhesive can withstand splashes of organic solvents, weak acids and bases and salt water, cleaning solutions, germicidals, disinfectants, oils, etc. In addition, it performs well after exposure to humidity and hot/cold cycles.Lamination to industrial foams for rotary die-cutting of small gaskets for industrial and electronics markets.
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19 Reddit comments about 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape, 12" squares (pack of 6):

u/Falk3r · 12 pointsr/3Dprinting

Congrats, just got mine 2 months ago.

SeeMeCNC forums are awesome. Start reading every new post.

Best upgrade I've done: PEI Bed

~$30 in upgrades; all my prints stick and pop off with ease. Also, the underside of every part is glassy and smooth. So good.

Buy "feeler gages" to assist with leveling the bed.

My bed leveling process is kinda like this:

  • Set the Z=0 spot, should be where you feel friction when pulling a single, blank piece of printer paper between the nozzle and print bed.

  • Edit the radius of swing in the EEPROM settings per the instructions (I missed this the first time through).

  • Setup and run the tower calibration script.

  • Figure out what the gap is for the central point with the feeler gages; mine was between .006" and .007" (.006" fit, .007" didn't).

  • Now use those "Go" and "No-Go" gages to check the three tower points.

  • If you need to adjust all three towers in the same direction, change the EEPROM radius instead, 0.2 steps.

  • Every few tower calibration runs, re-calibrate the Z=0 point. It will shift as you move screws and change EEPROM settings.

    Let's see, what else. If you can spare the cash, I moved to Simplify3d for all my slicing needs ($100~$150 for the license). Love it. If you can't afford it, maybe you'll find a way.

    Also, get ready to do a bajillion calibration runs. I mean it, don't be in a rush.

    Find a nice 20mm box off thingiverse or whatever, and you're gonna want to print that repeatedly while you dial in your settings. Once that's set, move on to the hollow pyramid, or the 5mm stairs.

    I seriously printed at least 20 of each of these while I dialed in my settings:

  • Extrusion Multiplier
  • Retraction Settings
  • Speed
  • Infill, Outline Overlap
  • Printing temp
  • etcetcetc

    ASAP, move over to PLA. Prints so much nicer for me than ABS.

    Oh, before you go to PLA, make sure you print 3x of the layer fans housings (not just 1x) and order up 2 more of the "squirrel cage" fans (centrifugal fans) from SeeMeCNC. edit: I spliced the single pair of layer-fan wires into three right at the connectors, I didn't bother running extra wire for them.

    Oh, and one other big improvement I made was putting connectors in-line with the hot-end and for all the fans. This way, if I have to replace a fan or upgrade the hot-end I don't have to cut and splice wires, I can just pop it off and connectorize another new one. Here are the connectors I used:

  • Hot end, high-current lines
  • Crimp tool
  • 1 2 3 4 for the lower-current fan lines and thermistor lines.

    That was probably too much info -- just take your time and try not to get frustrated while you get things all set up. It is not a plug-'n-play object, it requires care and feeding.

    ... oh, and have fun! Whatcha gonna print?
u/Sculptorman · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

You can't, I've destroyed mine and installed PEI.

Stick it down with this stuff here:

When you use this stuff you just wipe it with rubbing alcohol to clean the surface. Then it gives you near perfectly smooth prints where it touches the surface. The prints pop off easy after it cools but holds tight when it's warm. Personally I find it a waste of money to buy glue sticks/hair spray if you don't have to. Although I did buy glass I never installed it after this worked so well. It's amazing stuff and you'll never have to replace it.

u/Kariko83 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

DiiCooler, Z braces, thumbscrews for bed leveling, and the melzi temp fix are all common mods that I can recommend. You could also get the all Metal Hot end from Micro Swiss but I have not done this myself.

As for supplies, I would recommend getting a sheet of PEI and some 3M adhesive to stick it to the print bed. PEI is a great, low maintenance print surface that prints stick to very well even without any form of fixative to improve bed adhesion. If you don't go that route I would say get some buildtak to put on the print bed with washable gluestick depending on the filament you use. Basically you don't want to be printing directly on to the bed as there is a hole where the thermistor comes through.

Other than that, just get extra filament and have fun with it.

u/ThompsonBoy · 3 pointsr/CR10

Amazon has them for $22. Match with one of these to attach it.

The actual product doesn't have that weird edge, it's just a flat sheet.

u/bwyer · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I have several upgrades in the queue for this weekend once my M3 hardware kit comes in:

u/OpticalNecessity · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I stuck my PEI to a piece of Borosilicate glass which I believe you did as well based off your statement "Bit it's stuck to the glass..."

What quality of Transfer tape did you use. I bought this stuff, again stuck to the glass, and I haven't had issues.

I know you said that you removed the protective film. Mine had film on both sides, did yours?

u/icecreamterror · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I use 3M's 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape.

I had trouble using just binder clips when printing large ABS prints, as they would stick so well, but when contracting would warp the PEI sheet.

I guess it comes down to what you are printing and how thick your PEI sheet is.

I use a 0.03" sheet of PEI and would not recommend binder clips.

u/piercet_3dPrint · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Sure can!

Get one of these sheets from Mcmaster carr:
12"x12" 3/32nd thick sheet of Ultim PEI plastic

Stick it to the existing glass with this adhesive:
3M 468MP transfer adhesive

Trim it to fit, then print on it as you normally would. remember to re-adjust your Z stop to compensate. For ABS at least I have not found anything that works better so far, and I've tried most things. You don't need ABS slurry with it, you can print without brim, things just stick, and then release when cooled off. Polyethalene Tape is garbage compared to this stuff. It's by far the best upgrade you can do for your printer after the heated bed itself, and it costs under $40 to do. If you are having trouble getting things to stick to your bed, this is the way to go. It supposedly works just as well for PLA, though I have not tested that personally.

u/archindividual · 2 pointsr/PrintrBot

Get this -

Then get this -

Cut the sheet to the size of the bed. Put the glue on the sheet with the old windex+credit card deal. Put the sheet on the bed the same way.

Adjust your Z height to account for the thickness difference.

Never ever worry about bed adhesion again, ever.

u/CriminallyStupid · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

To install it you will need some sort of adhesive. I used these to keep it simple Slap it on whatever you want, just make sure it's a solid surface (not directly onto a PCB, because the PCB may flex and this PEI does nothing to prevent that). Adhesive on PEI or adhesive on heated surface first is entirely up to you.

The $15 vs $50 price you're probably just paying for the brand -- I haven't found any reason why this generic Polyetherimide stuff would be inferior compared to the pricey stuff.

The putty knife is probably fine as long as you don't dig in with the corner of it. Unscientifically I'd say the PEI is quite hard. So far the only damage mine has suffered was from the hot nozzle scraping across it. Pretty sure I've dropped few screwdrivers on it over the past months and there's no sign of it.

If you get a 12x12 sheet you will probably have some scraps left over once you cut it to fit. Play around with that to get a feel for how much abuse it will put up with. :)

u/MasterTentacles · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have a sheet on both aluminum and glass. For for both I used 3M 468 adhesive. Works great, just be careful as it loves to stick to itself and once it's down you can't straighten it out.

I used this (Amazon link): [TapeCase 12" squares (pack of 6), Converted from 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape] (

Make sure your build surface and PEI sheet are squeaky clean beforehand. Alcohol is your friend (rubbing, not drinking, though that's good too). Take your time laying down the adhesive to the PEI to minimize bubbles (there will be bubbles). Smooth it out as much as you can. You'll end up with a handful of larger bubbles still, but that's OK. Peel of the remaining sheet from the adhesive, and pop those suckers. I used an exacto knife and carefully scored the bubbles, then used a small piece of the discarded backing sheet to smooth them out. Now that that's done, carefully align and lay the stickified PEI sheet onto the aluminum bed. You only get one shot here, so make it work. What I did was lay one edge down and carefully push it down, keeping the farthest edge of the PEI up until the end. Take your time and keep bubbles to a minimum. Once your down, congrats. You now have a a super surface for printing.

Why all the stuff about bubble though? Well, hot air expands. This can cause minor warping of the PEI sheet as it warms up, and can mess up your first layers. You'll have some areas that might not go down smoothly, and others that the nozzle drags on. It's annoying. Trust me, I still need to redo my aluminum the right way.

Side note: if at all possible, I'd recommend getting a PEI sheet larger than your bed. Less work aligning it, then you can cut it to fit after putting it down. Drill holes through it afterwards, hell even counter sink it a bit. You'll have a nice looking print area afterwards!

...shit, time to order a 12in PEI sheet.

u/theRIAA · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I bought the same thing for my v1:
12"x12" 0.03" PEI
(6) 12x12" 3M Adhesive Transfer Tape:

At the time there were no practical cheaper/smaller options (although the extra 3M adhesive does come in handy).

... I scored/snapped the sheet into 4 pieces, and I'm still on the first PEI sheet after like 300 hours. It still looks flawless. I only use sharp scraper blades or no tools to remove parts. If you're printing something crazy in a cold room, you can add hairspray, but for the most part, PEI has perfect adhesion on it's own.

I definitely recommend the thicker PEI (0.03"+), as it makes the MPSM bed much more rigid. I don't have to bend the aluminum bed "flat again" anymore. I dont worry about bending the bed when ripping parts off the bed, even with super high adhesion.

Clean it with alcohol, not sandpaper.

u/3dstuff · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/ItsJasonClark · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Where was this stuff when put my PEI on my borosilicate glass plate? I had to use a separate adhesive sheet (Like That was a serious pain. I think I ruined 3 or 4 sheets before I got it right. Will certainly use this on my next printer.

u/jsm11482 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I recently stopped using blue tape and switched to PEI sheets on glass. I'll never go back. I think this would be a good thing for you to try, the PEI sheet releases pretty easily once cool.

PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length

TapeCase 12" squares (pack of 6), Converted from 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape

u/dgcaste · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Do yourself a favor and use some 3M 468MP transfer tape and a piece of PEI. You'll never have to worry about adhesion again. PLA and ABS stick to it perfectly and pop off when cool without issue. I've had hundreds of prints without adhesion issues, even when my offset is way off and I'm printing at 0.4mm height instead of 0.1mm. If you want to see what it looks like, check out the post I submitted yesterday

u/dmgdispenser · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
Do note I am using a rostock, but psi will work on all regardless, it's also acetone resistant, so you could clean really easily

u/Oh_Herro_ · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Also known as Ultem, it can be purchased here from CSHyde. There are several options there for size and thickness. The bonus is that these sheets come with adhesive already laminated to the sheet. I believe you can also get custom sizes, although larger sheets are no problem to cut to size.

Alternatively (and probably more common), you can purchase PEI sheets here on Amazon. The recommended adhesive (transfer tape) is here, and there may be other sizes for both available on Amazon as well as wBay.

The whole idea on using PEI as a print surface is that you get good print adhesion with most common print materials. Using a heated bed with PEI works great for getting prints to stick while warm, and also pop off of the print bed fairly easily as the bed cools.

I went with the stuff from CSHyde for convenience, but I think most users here are going with the Amazon stuff (they have thicker sheets which many users prefer as it can last longer before needing replacement).