Reddit Reddit reviews ABN Universal SAE and Metric Master Feeler Gauge 26-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width/Thickness

We found 4 Reddit comments about ABN Universal SAE and Metric Master Feeler Gauge 26-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width/Thickness. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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ABN Universal SAE and Metric Master Feeler Gauge 26-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width/Thickness
Practical: Use the ABN Universal SAE and Metric Master Feeler Gauge 26-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width / Thickness when you need to quickly and easily measure gap widthsVersatile: Use on anything from guitars to engines and everything in between; Metric and SAE standard sizes are included (millimeters and inches)Durable: Constructed from hardened tempered steel with a lube oil coating to prevent pitting and corrosion; Each blade has sizes laser etched for easy identification; Blades are bound within a blade protector to prevent loss of individual blades; Tool contains a blade notch for easy blade removalMetric: 0.038mm, 0.051mm, 0.064mm, 0.076mm, 0.102mm, 0.127mm, 0.152mm, 0.178mm, 0.203mm, 0.229mm, 0.254mm, 0.279mm, 0.305mm, 0.330mm, 0.356mm, 0.381mm, 0.406mm, 0.432mm, 0.483mm, 0.457mm, 0.508mm, 0.533mm, 0.559mm, 0.584mm, 0.610mm, 0.635mmSAE: 0.0015”, 0.002”, 0.0025”, 0.004”, 0.005”, 0.006”, 0.007”, 0.008”, 0.009”, 0.010”, 0.011”, 0.012”, 0.013”, 0.014”, 0.0.15”, 0.016”, 0.017”, 0.018”, 0.019”, 0.020”, 0.021”, 0.022”, 0.023”, 0.024”, 0.025”
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4 Reddit comments about ABN Universal SAE and Metric Master Feeler Gauge 26-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width/Thickness:

u/neautika · 1 pointr/tevotarantula

sorry i confused you I mean't pay close attention to the amount of digits. It actually is doing something. Its just doing it at very fine increments(thats why you got 3 numbers instead of 2). I.e. So like right now im printing abs, mashing the first layer and i've been lazy about calibrating my gcode offset with my probe. I first watch how the initial lines are laying down. Then i poke my head down and if i can see the stream of plastic laying down out of my nozzle, i keep going down until just after i can't see that stream, then check the layers and stop. A flashlight is handy. All off the filaments have a different feel. PETG being the absolute worse. I imagine your first layer looks incredible right now because its kind of mashed. And that it is beautifully mirrored like on the underside where it meets the glass if you haven't used a glue stick. Which is a look i like personally a lot. Looks like fine circuit board traces with the lines right?. But after that first layer keep jacking it up until the stringing stops. Just keep going up man. You may be twisting that knob a lot and thats okay. And when you get where it stops stringing, just add that number to your g code offset in your slicer. Baby stepping is a killer feature to utilize, its not hard at all you just have to get a feel for it. You will notice differences in how the lines lay down vs how much of a filament stream you can see. Im telling you this because I think finding your number babystepping with one print is less frustrating than start prints over and over punching in numbers inside your slicer. Its great to learn babystepping.

I was printing ABS tonight and i went to -150, i was printing PETG the other day and went all the way up to 500-600. If its way off you could be going way up. You will see it in your print, just be patient. I would actually encourage you to keep your first layers as your doing now for better adhesion and make your slicer correct the offset after the first layers. Thats what I do. But do that after you get this figured out.

These help a lot
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T85ANNW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Boylerules · 1 pointr/Guitar

You might want to snag some feeler gauges to actually measure your neck relief.

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Once you've set the neck relief, then adjust the action by changing your bridge height.