Reddit reviews AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-Male Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters), Black
We found 47 Reddit comments about AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-Male Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters), Black. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
One 6-foot-long (1.8 meters) high-speed multi-shielded USB 2.0 A-Male to B-Male cableConnects mice, keyboards, and speed-critical devices, such as external hard drives, printers, and cameras to your computerConstructed with corrosion-resistant, gold-plated connectors for optimal signal clarity and shielding to minimize interferenceFull 2.0 USB capability/480 Mbps transfer speedDistributed by Amazon; backed by one-year AmazonBasics warranty
Turn off the wireless functionality, and plug it in with a USB cable. Usually, they use one like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
USB A Male to USB B Male
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NH11KIK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1454007570&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=usb+a+to+b+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41GqSLLamyL&ref=plSrch
1/4" TRS Stereo to 3.5mm TRS Stereo adapter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3T/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1454007688&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=1+4+trs+to+3.5mm+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31tLIDKLK6L&ref=plSrch
I had to change USB cables several times. I ended up using an amazon basics USB that works fine - the two others I had laying around did something similar to what you describe (I think they were older printer cables). While the ALO cable should be good, for some reason the Jotunheim seems picky about them. Here is the one that works for me, I don't know why it's any different than the other ones I tried but it is: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1511142281&sr=8-8&keywords=amazon+basics+usb
Also, even with that cable I find that I have to unplug the USB from the back of the jotunheim every time I shutdown my computer and try to play music again, then reconnect it, otherwise I get some kind of digital skipping sound every second. Reconnecting the USB on the laptop side doesn't fix it for some reason.
Also it's strange that it suddenly stopped working; cables can wear out though, especially if you're using a laptop like I do, bending/stretching happens. I know it sucks but try even more usb cables if you can.
Looks like one of these, though I can't be 100% sure:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_uOz7yb0WFS8V6
Edit: spelling
Depends on what your budget is. I'd suggest, within your budget, a Modi Multibit + Magni Uber and you'll have yourself equipment that can power future headphones. If not, you can't go wrong with a Modi 2 + Magni 2 Uber and it's one of the best bang for your buck stack. It'll be a nice improvement over your motherboard's sound card which can carry noise from your video card/power supply/fans.
You'll have to purchase a USB A to B cable as well as as an RCA male to male cable.
USB A to B I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11KIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
RCA Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can also purchase the 6" PYST cable from Schiit for $20. -_-
That looks like a USB type B port. Any USB type A to type B cable should work.
Something like this should be ok.
Here is the mobile version of your link
No worries, I blasted a lot of info in that first comment that may not have been immediately relevant to your situation. Hopefully the details below can get you started:
In the spec, the “OUTPUT L/MONO, R jacks (monaural phone jack unbalanced)” refers to the 1/4” jacks. Since it confirms they are unbalanced, you would use a 1/4” TS cable. Check out this Hosa Dual TS cable for a cheaper example that has two cables for Left and Right. (Two single 1/4” TS cables would work just fine too). This is the cable you’ll connect to the interface for the audio.
For the UMC404HD, the input jacks are “combo” jacks that can accept TS, TRS, and XLR connections.
For clarification: unbalanced signals only have two wires, the tip and the sleeve (“TS”). Balanced have 3 wires, like and XLR connection or a TRS (tip-ring-sleeve). Just make sure if you’re looking for an unbalanced instrument cable, you don’t get a speaker cable. Both actually have TS connectors. Instrument cables have a signal wire and shield made to reduce noise, where as speaker cables have two equally sized wires that are made to send power from an amp to a speaker.
The 3.5mm connections mentioned in the specs are for sync and CV connections. These are not audio, but I ways to interface with other synths that have patch points. I wouldn’t stress too much about them if the Minilogue is your only synth for now.
In addition to audio, being able to record the MIDI
data will give you lots of flexibility in songwriting and recording. For this, just using a USB cable will work for starters. You could connect with MIDI cables to your interface instead of the USB connection, but you wouldn’t need both.
The audio interface will have a USB cable included for connecting to the computer. Keep in mind you’ll want some sort of DAW software to record into. There are plenty of free options out there to try and see what you like, and the interface you buy will probably come with some form of Lite version. Also keep in mind when using an interface, playback will also come through it as an output. You can monitor this with headphones or by connecting the Main Out to powered monitors.
Hey man, not a problem at all.
You'll need a printer cable to connect your Alesis module to your Macbook via MIDI interface.
Once connected, open Garageband and it'll ask you to choose a template, one of which is drums. Select that and it'll open up a new window. You might get a notification in top right corner as well which says "1 midi input detected" which'll prove that Garageband has successfully recognized the kit.
Now, you can select different kits from a panel on the left side and you'll hear the voice on your laptop speakers once you hit on the kit. You can output it to headphone/speaker via your laptop AUX port.
Feel free to DM me if you face any problem. Good luck dude.
No. You need an RCA Cable and a USB cable that has a USB2 cable that has a Type B end. (like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK). You need the square ending usb 2. Anyways I use amazon basics usb cables on mine and they're great.
I already said this on another post, BUT if you ask me, for the money and build quality you can't beat Schiit Audio.
Pick up a MAGNI "HEADPHONE AMP AND PREAMP" for $99, a MODI "DAC" for $99 - $249 for the multibit version. So between $198-and $348 you can have an outstanding smi-portable DAC and Headphone/Preamp.
You will need a set of RCA cables to connect the DAC to the Headphone amp. As for connecting your smartphone you will need this USB 2.0 OTG Cable On The Go Adapter and then you will then need to connect that to a USB A-B Cable. Plug the "B" end of the USB A-B cable into the Dac. Additionally you could have skipped the DAC altogether and ran a RCA-to-3.5 cable right into the back of the headphone amp. But if you are aiming to take advantage of the HiFi/master audio I would recommend you use the DAC method. Connecting your laptop is just as easy and you can just run the USB A-B cable into the DAC. Or, if your computer has an optical audio output you could use a Toslink cable to connect direct into the DAC.
your all set man. get after it.
Total cost is just under $25 USD. Plug your keyboard and mouse into the hub, plug the hub into the USB switch, connect the USB switch to your PC and Mac. Now you can switch on the fly between both PC and Mac without having to swap cables. The nice thing about this is that you have 4 ports total, so you can add more devices if need be.
So first, to connect your DAC to your computer, you'll need a usb A to B cable like this one. Most printers come with one of these, so you may have on laying around that you're not using. Plug the A (regular USB) end into your laptop, and the B (the square one) into the USB input on the DAC.
Next, you'll need two RCA splitters like this, one for the left channel, and one for the right. Plug one into each of the outputs on the DAC (male end into dac, 2 female ends hanging free).
To connect the subwoofer, you just need a regular RCA cable like this. Just run one side of the cable from one of the ouptuts of the spitter connected to the left channel on the DAC to the left input of the sub, and the same for the right (after this, you should have one output used on each of the two splitters).
Finally, to connect your speakers, I think the simplest way would be with the RCA to XLR cables (sadly, you'll need two of them, so you'll have to pick up another). Just run one from the free output on each of the splitters on the DAC outputs to the XLR input on the appropriate speaker (left or right).
Obviously, for each cable, get whatever length is convenient for the positioning of all your components.
I had a similar problem. Furthermore in my case it would take me up to 2 hours to get serato to connect to my controller. I got an Amazon basic cable and it works wonderfully. Here is a link to the one I got.
You don't have to buy expensive cables, or necessarily from Schiit. If you get a Modi2 and Magni2, you'll need a USB cable with an A type connector on one end and a B connector on the other to go from the Modi2 to the computer. Like this.
To connect the Modi2 to the Magni2, you'll need basic RCA cables. Something like this will do.
The ones I've linked are just examples. But there really isn't a need to go overboard on cables.
I only included the braille in case you or anyone else that reads it later needs it, or maybe wants to print out to have next to their piano so they don't need to keep coming back to reddit for it. I tried to think of everything to help. I'm not blind, but I can only imagine how frustrating it must be to not have owners manuals in a form you can read being blind. I actually looked to see if they had a version for visually impaired. Sadly, they did not. This shows an obvious need in our world that we do not have.
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Yamaha's Smart Pianist app for iOS allows you to control the functions of your P-125 with your iOS device (requires Apple Lightning to USB Camera Adapter and USB cable). The USB cable will be USB-A to USB-B ends.
Facing the back of the piano you have from left to right, USB to Host, Sustain pedal, Pedal Unit, Aux jack right, aux jack left and balanced, finally the power.
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I hope this helps and was exactly the answers you were seeking. Good luck on your journey learning piano.
Also perfect: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1541133504&sr=8-13&keywords=amazon+basics+usb+cable
The HP-A4's RCA plugs are for sending music out to speakers, not for sending your music into the amp. For android phones, you'll need a USB-B 2.0 to USB-A cable and a USB-A to USB-C adapter assuming you're using a phone with USB-C like Samsung S8, or Note8, or a USB-A to Micro-USB adapter if you're using a older/cheaper android phone like Samsung S7, J3, etc.
USB-B to USB-A cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK
USB-A to USB-C Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0/
USB-A to Micro USB Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LN3LQKQ/
This is the one I've been using since freshman year:
https://www.amazon.com/Brother-HL-L2300D-Monochrome-Printer-Printing/dp/B00NQ1CLTI/
It's currently going for $95, which is actually a lot more expensive than usual. I think it usually goes for like $60-$70, so maybe wait a bit and see if it comes back down.
It is only black-and-white, but it does have automatic duplex (double-sided-printing), so it's very convenient for printing out essays and readings and stuff.
It's been very reliable, and if you buy the off-brand toner cartridges (these are the ones I get), it's pretty cheap as well.
EDIT: One thing to note that caught me off guard when I bought it- It doesn't come with a USB cable, so maybe pick up one of those as well if you don't have one laying around.
I think you can just use a regular old usb cable
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
Yeah you can only use it on a computer. The main thing you need is a midi cable. Most digital pianos should have a midi port somewhere. You can use a printer cable like this. You just plug it from your piano into your PC. There's a demo for Synthesia but most of the important features are locked, like automatic pausing when you make a mistake. So you can either pay for the full version or download it through other means. All you really need is a midi cable and the software, just as long as your piano actually has a midi port.
If you don't mind a UK Amazon link, this would be fine: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
The katana has a usb type b port on it. To connect to a computer you'll need a cable like this
PC->modi is USB A->B, modi->magni is RCA
Which cable are you looking for? If it's the one on the right, it's USB-B. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485845287&sr=8-3&keywords=USB+B+cable
Are you sure? This doesn't look like the cable that came with my mic: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH11KIK/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
For connecting to the computer, both boards use regular USB A/B cable, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
The same cable can also be used to power the boards - for most cases, this is all you need.
You could try using another cable like this if you don't have similar ones laying around. Might be a waste of $6 but will be a fast fix if it's just the cable.
Unfortunately, all the ones are designed to switch 1 connected device between two computers, which could work.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
https://www.amazon.com/Cute-USB-2-Port-Hub-Splitter/dp/B00A81ISJ6
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/
Ok, so you'd plug the USB splitter into a USB port on your computer, Then you'd run the USB 2.0 B cable into one of the USB B ports on the switcher.
Then you'd remove the adapter from the ifi, plug it into the other usb B port on the switcher, and then plug the dac into the usb A port on the other side.
The "two computers" would be the line with the ifi, and the line without.
That's correct. I'm using a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
Without knowing more about your ingest workflow it's had to say, but you might be well served with a Pegasus R6/R8 or similar. That'll give the bandwidth to be ingesting a few cards at once and be duplicating to a portable drive that can go back to editoral. The fewer volumes I have to manage the easier I find staying organized. One 30TB volume seems a lot more manageable than 6 4TB drives floating everywhere. If you go the RAID/NAS route make sure you don't go too small.
A RAID could also be easier on the AEs if the DIT cart can be connected to the SAN and ingested that way. Instead of a couple hundred Mbps you could get in the Gbps range. Remember that standard gigabit ethernet won't be the answer for high speed transfers.
I know you have three laptops for ingest, but I'd try to build the cart around one laptop copying footage. Again, fewer moving parts is easier to manage. Having a utility laptop that can tackle other tasks is often useful. If you need to make proxy files in the field look into a NAS solution instead of a RAID so you can get two, three, or more computers hitting the storage concurrently.
---
On top topic of a DIT cart, put some thought into a cart. What it should have. I'd be looking for a big heavy UPS on the bottom to give the thing some stability. Maybe an APC2200? Not sure how worried you are about weight...don't use that if you're flying with it. Get your own network going on there if you have multiple computers. Also add a Thunderbolt dock and power strip on the top to give you more USB ports and power for all the travel drives that will show up. I'd connect drives to a laptop in the middle and look for a way to put a laptop on an arm on the side of the cart too. Needs to collapse down so the whole things is self-contained for transport. I'd use the middle laptop for copying and the side laptop for proxy creation.
Make sure you have all the cables on hand. Thunderbolt 2, USB2 B, USB2 Mini-B (old GoPro charging), USB2 Micro-B (old Android charging), USB3 B, USB3 Micro-B, and finally USB C. I'd have 1 each on the USB2 variants, 2 each on the USB3 variants, and 3 of the Type C variants. Gauge your own need for Firewire 400, Firewire 800, HDMI, Ethernet, and the requisite dongles. Might be wise to have a USB-A dongle and maybe an Ethernet dongle on hand for the Touchbar laptops. Even if you don't have a Touchbar they're coming. It isn't that much money (comparatively) to keep these kinds of things in a drawer, but it can make a huge difference if you have it on hand.
I'd probably trick my cart out with a mass charger and some Lightning and Type-C cables. Hit all the cables with some orange gaff or some sort of mark so that people don't carry them away. Might even tape the phone cables to the cart. Might seem excessive, but if you set that up people won't be filling up your power strip with their chargers or plugging their phones into your ingest station. 10 ports might be more than you need, especially since people shouldn't be using their phones too heavily on set, but the goal is to make sure your power strip isn't used on phones.
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As for software, you'll have to consider your needs and what fits them best. I'm not a lot of help on that front. Haven't messed around with the options too much.
A USB cable that fits the USB port in the mbox and an adapter for the Mac to allow you to connect USB. Apple should sell those.
Should be this type of USB cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=asc_df_B00NH11KIK5055496/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00NH11KIK&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15333561095713687156&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004070&hvtargid=pla-181858139331
I don't think DP is the same thing as Type B, but I can't be sure. Just get something like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK and you should be fine
I mean it's a USB cable that is typically used for printers. Like [this].
>Thank you for the incredibly informative reply! I've been reading up on this a bit but I'm still unsure: what's the difference in quality, latency, and software/hardware compatibility between tradition '5-din' MIDI, MIDI to USB / USB-MIDI and USB (where either both sides are USB or like [this](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=asc_df_B00NH11KIK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6368450382305919329&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033574&hvtargid=pla-181858139331&psc=1)? For example, my digital piano has a 5 pin MIDI 'DIN', is this different in any way (software/hardware compatibility, quality etc) from the example cable provided in the link? I hear all kinds of different opinions on the matter. And it's extra confusing to me because my computer doesn't have a MIDI in port, so it's going to have to get changed into USB anyway. I mean maybe the desktop has top has MIDI in, but I'm not even sure if there's advantages there.
>
>At any rate, I think I've boiled it down to either the Keystep or Microbrute. I'm going to use softsynths with either, so I'm not sure if the Keystep has any advantages here other than being cheaper.
>
>Sorry for the rant and thanks for the help so far, it's been very helpful.
Oh, I got it that long intentionally. My hope was that I could run it from my radio to the coffee table, and have some length left over to wind an air choke into the cable.
My initial though was that the first cable was somehow broken, which may explain the issue. It was a generic Amazon cable, and ironically enough it is now unavailable due to quality issues. It is listed here: AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to B-Male - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Mwwozb84M72SR
When I got the second cable, it didn't occur to me that the level of shielding or length had anything to do with problems I was having.
Computer to PT-100 via USB type A cable.
PT-100 Main outputs to Airmotiv inputs via a stereo RCA patch cable
I'm also looking for a DAC for the LSR305. So far, the Scarlett 2i2 2nd gen seems to be one of the most popular.
In the case of the 2i2, you would need:
and
or
Whichever DAC you decide to get you should get one with balanced outputs like TRS (Scarlett 2i2) or XLR (Scarlett 2i4). It doesn't make any difference as far as sound quality if output is TRS or XLR or if you use XLR to TRS cables.
So, as I said I'm looking for a DAC too and although the 2i2 is popular I haven't setled on it yet; I'm just a casual music listener and I feel the recording inputs will be wasted if I get the Scarlett as I don't do any recording at all, ever.
I just wand a decent DAC (<$200) that has volume control and balanced outputs (and optionaly, very low prio, a headphone output).
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497844307&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+b+cable
This one then?
Would I be able to run a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=asc_df_B00NH11KIK5039287/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=394997&amp;creativeASIN=B00NH11KIK&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=167151358503&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=18176725852370964003&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9026906&amp;hvtargid=pla-181858139331 from my mixer to my laptop and be able to record? The laptop doesn't have a 3.5 mm input, just usb ports, lan and a headphone jack.
This new MIDI controller connects to the computer with a USB like one of these cords below:
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to B-Male - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R0sYBb0NFMF6A
I am using a Alienware laptop from 2015ish. I'm assuming I have the newest version of Pro Tools First since I only downloaded a few days ago.
Also what is ASIO and why do people keep talking about it?
Also thank you for responding.
Nope, it doesn't. This (USB A to B) is what you need, as I recall.
look like a normal usb B plug
you probably need one of these
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/
I'm about to buy A Schiit Magni 2 Uber and Modi 2 Uber to drive my DT 990 250ohm and AKG K7XX 90% of the time that will be used for FPS gaming. I read that the way to still utilize the soundcard's features are to go optical from soundcard to DAC and then RCA from DAC to amp. Another interesting thing I haven't found much information on is for RCA using only the red RCA cable vs. using the red & white. What's the difference? Also these are the cables I'm looking at for the Schiit stack:
Pen displays generally have three connections: Video, data, power. This model uses a DVI-D cable for video. Power adapter is POW-A131 for the non-touch, and POW-A120 for the touch model. Then the USB-B to A cable for data, he's one from Amazon that should work: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK (these cables are very generic and standard, so compatibility is never really an issue so long as you get the right connector type).
Since you are getting a video signal, I wouldn't bother changing those other cables. Just swap this one and see what happens, if it doesn't fix it --- the issue could be the computer, but more likely an issue with the Cintiq itself (my money's on the cable tho).
Good luck
Is this a good one? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
I assume I can't use digital optical as I'm pretty sure my PC doesn't have one. Only optical I'm rollin is an optical drive!