Reddit reviews Aqueon Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner 5"

Looks like you didn't rinse the gravel before adding it to the tank.

Get yourself an Aquarium Gravel Siphon and a bucket.

A few things I would change though, to improve the setup and make this 3.5g tank work out for the betta... (PLEASE READ and bear with me, I know it's long but you'll learn a lot I promise!)

1. That's WAYYY TOOO MUCH GRAVEL... jeez damn, that alone is taking at least 2+ inches of what could have been more water space + going to trap a TONNNN of debris with all that gravel... my recommendation would be to remove enough of it until the small finer gravel just barely reaches a bit above the level of black frame at the bottom of the tank, and then have the larger pebbles/rocks on top.
   
2. Fill the water till it's about 1 cm below the top black rim frame of the tank (that's how much I used to fill mine up to when I had the exact same TopFin 3.5g tanks).
   
3. I highly recommend these silk plants, both packs:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KGBJ06 AND https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BG2TEAWith both packs, your tank will have nice and sufficient silk plant coverage. The taller plants towards the back, and the shorter ones to the front, those 4 will form a perfect mini jungle your betta will absolutely enjoy. You could try doing easy lowlight plants like Java Fern, but having had the same tank before, I think the rainbow LED light it comes with is far to dim to sustain most plants. Still you could try and see if java fern will be ok (they don't like their bulbous rhizomes buried though, so only bury the bit of the roots sticking out below the bulby-pill-shaped rhizomes).
   
4. Add 3-4 medium or large marimo moss balls (they look nice and they do eat up some of the toxins in the water) + Java moss [wrap some java moss around cables (heater cables)].
   
5. Add a 18-25w heater, preferably manually adjustable rather than preset, bettas absolutely DO need a heater, especially for winter months when its chilly. Their preferred comfy temperature needs to be kept at 78-80F. I do remember Petsmart has an 18w preset heater that's supposed to maintain 77 or 78F but I don't trust it, you can try it if you want but a manually adjustable heater is more accurate.
   
6. Ditch the included carbon cartridge (replacing that once per month is a money-grabbing gimmick by the pet store, because you should only ever need carbon filtration to remove medicine after a medicinal treatment of a sick betta, it's not really useful filtration otherwise). I recommend filling the big filter space with aquarium sponges cut down to size, towards the front of the filter where the outflow is + TopFin Quartz bioballs (you can buy a whole carton of them for a nice price) towards the back-half.
   
   1. https://www.amazon.com/3IN1-BIO-SPONGE-Biochemical-Sponge-QUACLEAR/dp/B00VPL0V0W <-- this pack includes fine, medium, and coarse sponges that you can layer inside the filter front (cut them down to size to fit if needed). Maintenance is the occasional gentle swish of the filter sponges in old tank water (NEVER RINSE IN STRAIGHT TAP WATER), about every two weeks or so (depending how gunked up they get).
      
   2. Add as much TopFin Quartz Bioballs (rinse them first in dechlorinated water) as fits in the space behind the filter sponges mentioned above.
      
      Other things you'll definitely need to have, and/or do:
      
      
7. API Freshwater Master Test Kit - You're definitely going to have to Fish-In cycle that 3.5g tank which means DAILY 25%-30% partial water changes to keep ammonia & nitrites low (you want those close to zero as possible to reduce poisoning of your betta during the process, so you need this test kit to be able to keep a careful watch on the ammonia and nitrite levels). ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check daily or every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.
   
8. Seachem Prime - best water dechlorinator out there, and perfect for Fish-In cycling because it helps temporarily neutralize smaller amounts of ammonia (under 1ppm).
   
9. Seachem Stability - beneficial bacteria blend which you'll need for establishing a nitrogen cycle.
   
10. Gravel Vacuum (mini size is good for 3.5g) - mandatory must-have item for tank maintenance, how else are you gonna siphon out the poo and food waste from the bottom of the tank? https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ should be perfect size for your tank.
    
11. 5g bucket (yes I know that's more than what your tank water volume is, but imagine having only a 3g bucket and you're trying to carry it to be dumped, or to carry it for a refill and it's going to be sloshing around as you walk, so a larger bucket will help reduce spills from some sloshing.)
    
12. NorthFin Betta Bits - one of the best quality betta pellets out there (little or no fillers, high quality ingredients, no nasty toxic preservatives) https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/
    
    Also PLEASE watch out with the overfeeding, your betta in this video clip looks super bloated (his little tiny belly looks about ready to burst, he's so stuffed). You need to fast him for 3-4 days until his belly looks almost flat again, then you can try giving him some daphnia as a mild laxative to help him clear out any further blockage (not to mention a heater to warm the water to a stable 78-80F will help his metabolism so he can process the food properly).
    
    Here's a reference of photos to help you determine how much food his little belly needs: https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg (feed slowly 1 piece at a time, watch his belly, and aim not to let it get too far past the 2nd from the top picture).
    
    Please read these articles to learn more how to give your boi the best quality of life: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index
    
    Only once your tank is fully cycled (0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 5-15ppm nitrAte) for a 3.5g tank, you will need to do one 30% partial water change (PWC) mid-week (Wednesday for example), and one 30% PWC at end of week (Sunday for example). Or if you won't be there over the weekend then do 1 PWC Tues. and 1 on Friday.
    
    Good luck!

I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:

Equipment

• 10 gallon tank with hood
  
• Broad Spectrum Light The one that came with the hood did not provide enough for the plants, you definitely need to invest in a broad spectrum bulb.
  
• CaribSea Flora Max Substrate I learned that shrimp prefer darker color substrate, this was worth the investment! My shrimp were so unhappy with cheap gravel, after switching to this substrate they are very active.
  
• Air pump
  
• Sponge filter
  
• Heater, maybe optional for you?
  
• Thermometer
  
• Gallon Bucket
  
• Siphon
  
• Seachem Prime Because it's a smaller tank, I ended up poking a pinhole sized hole in the seal so that I could use it as drops rather than pouring it in.
  
• [Seachem Stability] (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-67101230-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499786377&sr=1-1&keywords=seachem+stability) Use this while you're cycling your tank, follow the instructions.
  
• API Test Kit
  
• Feeding Tray For the longest time I was really confused as to how the feeding tray worked, you can either get a tube or pre-soak the pellets and then drop them into the tray using long tweezers. This will help prevent ammonia/nitrite spikes.
  
• Long Tweezer Set
  
• Pellets Do also feed them blanched vegetables, make sure to peel the skin and buy organic to avoid chemicals/pesticides
  
• Timer Outlet Worth the investment! So you don't have to keep remembering to turn the light on and off.
  
  Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
  
  Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
  
  EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
  
  Setting up your tank
  
  
• 1. Find a stable top to place your aquarium on, keep in mind a well sunlit room will mean more plant/algae growth. Make sure it's sturdy and made for heavy objects, don't want to place it on a flimsy shelf or it might break! I keep mine on top a waterproof place mat because water drips are going to happen.
     
• 2. Rinse everything as a precaution! NEVER use dish soap!! If you must sanitize, vinegar is okay. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly. Also, NEVER use any kind of soap on your hands before handling things, just rinse well with water. Add your substrate, I lightly rinsed mine as there are beneficial bacteria living inside the substrate, pour it in. Make sure it's at least 2" of floor. Your water will be cloudy if you bought the substrate I listed, don't worry as it will settle after an hour and be clear.
     
• 3. Fill water half way, use a small plate and pour the water on top of that to avoid the substrate being pushed around. NEVER use hot water! If you're using tap water be sure to always use cold water. It's also recommended to purchase "RO water" (Reverse Osmosis Water) as some times your tap water can be too "hard". The best thing to do is use the test kit on tap water and go from there. If the kH/gH are very high 100+ you will need to use RO water. I like to place my plants and decor now while the tank is half full. Place in your thermometer, heater, sponge filter, etc. After that, continue to fill all the way to the top remembering to aim the stream on top the plate. Leave about a half to an inch from the top.
     
• 4. Take out plate, plug in filter, add in Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability. Please read the label for instructions and dosage according to your tank size. Since there is nothing inside you can add it after you've added the water to the tank. Moving forward, be sure to add the chemicals in the water bucket BEFORE pouring into the tank.
     
• 5. Turn on filter, wait for the water to settle and temperature to come up. They say shrimp can tolerate 52F to 86F but ideally room temperature water is best, this is where your water heater will come into play. Follow which ever cycling method you choose before purchasing your shrimp. This can take up to 6 weeks.
     
     After your tank has cycled
     
     
• 1. When adding your shrimp, there are many methods, the way I acclimate my shrimp is:
     
• 2. Put the shrimp in a 1 gallon tub using the water that they came in.
     
• 3. Drop in a tablespoon of the tank water, ONCE every 2 minutes.
     
• 4. After the water has reached 1/3 old water, 2/3rd new water, your shrimp are ready to be placed into your tank.
     
     Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
     
     Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
     
     
• kH: 60 / gH: 40 / pH: 7.0 / NO2: 0 / NO3: 20 / Ammonia: 0 / Temperature: 72F
  
  I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!

It's very kind of you to not just let him die! If you get him spiffed up you may be able to find someone who likes fish to take him in, so you don't end up feeling burdened...

but in the meanwhile, there is some basic stuff you can do. If your measurements are correct, then he's probably in a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon aquarium, which while not the best, will certainly suffice. This means the main things you'll need are a filter and a heater.

It would also be nice if you got him some stuff to hide in, so he doesn't stress. They make aquarium decorations, but a clean, well rinsed ceramic coffee mug or unpainted terra cotta planter will do the trick for cheap.

By the way, can you post the name of the water conditioner that you found in the tube? It will help me be able to figure out if it's a dechlorinator or not, which is the most important thing.

Also, does the tank have a lid? Bettas will jump out of water, especially if the water quality is bad.

Anyway, there is plenty of inexpsensive, decent equipment for a tank that size:

I personally happen to like this filter for a tank that size, and it's very easy to install/maintain.

Here's a nice little heater that's worked very well for me. You'd want to maintain his water between 75 and 80 degrees, so it's always a good idea to have a thermometer to make sure the heater is doing its job properly.

From there, maintenance is pretty easy. Feed him just 3 or so of those little food pebbles a day, and once a week give him some of the bloodworms for variety. The main thing is to not overfeed, because they have very small tummies.

Once a week, change out about 25% of his water, and rinse out your filter pads with old aquarium water if they need it. They make little syphons especially for this, because the suction they create helps you vacuum poo out of the substrate.

No problem! I love this kind of stuff! Neon tetras is what you had? Those are great beginners but they are kind of small. Platties are a good beginner fish that do best in groups of about 3 or 4, especially in a ten gallon. They get to be about 2-3 inches long, and come in many bright, beautiful colors! They also look really pretty when the tank is decorated! Black skirt tetras are also really hardy, and do well in groups! If you wanted variety, you could also throw in a mystery snail or two!

Tanks are pretty easy to shop for. Honestly, the best place I have found is amazon. There are two routes to take. The first is that you could buy all of the parts separately, or you could buy a kit with most of hte stuff oyu need. For beginners, I definitely reccomend getting a kit. This is a pretty good kit that runs pretty cheap! You'll also need a heater for a 10 gallon tank. I use this one because it can be placed either along the wall of the aquarium or along the bottom. You'll also need substrate, or gravel/sand for your aquarium to make it look really nice and to give good bacteria a medium to grow on! This is essentially a preference for what you want your tank to look like! I use this because I like to make my tank look pretty natural, but it is entirely up to you! The most basic rule is you need about 1 pound of substrate per gallon of aquarium. Also, you need to get a gravel vacuum to clean the gravel. I use a small one for my tank because it lets me be more precise. You'll also need some water conditioner to make your tap water safe for fish! Some people use aquarium salt in their tanks, but I've found it's not entirely necessary. You'll also want to get some plastic/silk plants for your tank! Live plants are preferable, but with a 10 gallon tank fake will be fine! Silk is usually recommended because it has less of a tendency to rip fins, but plastic works fine!

So, essentially the bare bones of what you need are:

• 10 gallon tank kit ~$70 (if you go to places like PetsMart or PetCo, you might be lucky and find one on sale for like $30-$50!)
  
• 10 gallon heater ~$15
  
• About 10 lbs of substrate or gravel ~$15-$20
  
• Water conditioner ~$12
  
• Fish food (flakes, pellets, blood worms, etc.) ~$4
  
• Gravel vacuum ~$8
  
• Decorations ~$10-$20 depending on how much you want in your tank
  
  Total: ~$130
  
  All of these prices are from Amazon and my own experience, and can vary greatly from store to store. Especially during sales and such. You might get lucky and get all of this stuff for less that $100! It really does depend on where you are and what's available around you!
  
  If you have any other questions, please let me know!

Sounds like you have pretty much everything covered!

As far as water changes go, you're going to need a dedicated fish bucket or two (I use two HDPE 2 gallon buckets from Walmart) and a siphon or a gravel vacuum. I use this gravel vac in my 10 gallon tanks and it works just fine.

Here's a good video on how to use a gravel vacuum.

Out of curiosity, are you planning on using ammonia or fish food to cycle your tank?

You have to keep tank clean by any means necessary, removing wastes as soon as possible is a part of routine. Just do it by using thin hose or a usual gravel cleaner. For slow picking it up, using minimum water, the thinnest tubing could be used (flexible tuning attached to the rigid clear acrylic tubing, if this is available to you if local fish stores). Move the hose end close to the poo and it will be sucked out the tank after siphon started.

You have to remove poo first, then remove the rest of water, planned for this water change, and add new water. This is a normal procedure for each water change. If you do search for gravel vacuum, you will see a lot of youtube videos about how to clean fish tank.

The last resort is to remove inhabitants in another container for the time of cleaning, empty tank, clean it thoroughly, and fill it with water again. Acclimate fish to new water for slowly adding new water to the container with fish. After water there becomes almost the same as in new water, it's safe to move fish back in the tank.

Plants for tanks without substrate: mosses (java moss, Christmas moss, weeping moss, flame moss), liverworts (round pellia, subwassertang, see Marks Shrimp Tank how tank with it looks like), java ferns, anubias, bucephalandra. The last three have roots, but they have to be glued to something (wood, rock), not buried.

Mosses could be used for moss walls, moss carpets (don't do this if there is a problem with poo), mss trees and logs. See this and this.

You have bare bottom. That's easier than having a substrate. Use a turkey baster or one of those small siphon. Aqueon Mini Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IqYPAbFJZ4MEW. Like this one.

When you expand, this might be a handy tool for you: AquaAdvisor

Right now, if I were you, I would purchase:

HOB Nano filter

Siphon Water changer/gravel vacuum - Carry your aquarium over to a drain. Keep an empty two liter handy to pour freshwater back in.

You cycled your tank, right? If not, you may want to pour some of this in there to help.

Water Test Kit Keep track 2x a week. Small tanks are more difficult since water conditions can go bad quite quickly. Keeping an aquarium is not about fish, it's about chemistry.

Spiral CFL bulb to replace the incandescent you probably have. Incandescents suck and heat your aquarium way too much.

Thermometer Glass, with suction cup.

Light timer Trust me, keeping that light on all day is only going to cause algae, and won't make your plants grow quicker. 6 hours in the beginning, 8 hours max.

Heater 25 watt, keep at 80 degrees. The gradient lines will NOT be accurate.

------

Low-tech tank care Study this, and pay attention to the dry fertilization part.

Copper Test kit

You will want to use a small siphon. And don't dig into the substrate. Hover just above it.


Copper shouldn't be an issue unless you are using ferts with lots of copper... or you overdose ferts. iirc, Seachem has trace amounts of copper, not enough to cause issues unless you use the entire bottle at once.

If you're looking for that exact one it comes with aqueon water siphons. The sell the whole siphon and clip (which looks to be updated and new) on amazon as an add on item. It looks to be an add on item. No clue where you can buy the clip on it's own.

Siphon and clip

http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mini+gravel+vacuum&qid=1568853650&s=gateway&sr=8-2 I have 3 sizes of these, and used the mini in my 2.5gallon. It's very slow for me, but maybe what you need.

Just removing water is fine. If you like you can purchase a siphon to help remove some waste from the gravel.
As for cleaning the sides, I find these very useful.

For a 3 gallon tank I would definitely do 20-30% water changes twice a week. I would not add any more fish, aside from maybe a snail. Adding any more fish would overstock your tank, causing it to get dirty faster and upping the chances of illnesses.


No. Cycling takes at least a few weeks. (read the article I posted in an earlier comment) You can keep track of where it is in the cycling process by doing daily water parameters tests. Here is a really good kit.

Aqueon 06226 Mini Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_69rJxbEM6CMGY

That should work for a one gallon. Try doing it with him in, if he tries getting sucked into the tube, yeah pull him out in a bowl for a couple minutes. If he keeps his distance he probably won't be happy if you take too long but should be alright.

gravel vacuum

Okay here is a list of supplies off amazon:

Test kit: API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K
(should be found at the store, petsmart price matches from their online store and chewy.com)

Water conditioner: Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u-kKDbTMV2W8K
(at the store, may be in a different section - i found it near the crickets once for some reason)

Food: Northfin Food Betta Bits 1Mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
(online only unless youre lucky)

Gravel Siphon if you dont already have one: Aqueon Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner 5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ypGUDbPQWMG6J (You dont have to get this one ofc, but you should def have a gravel siphon, you can find one of these at the store)

Hikari Usa AHK73254 Prazipro for Aquarium, 4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LOBGYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VqGUDb6RFCYMX
(online only-
or you could try API general cure which is probably at the store for meds)

Biomax: Fluval SPEC Carbon Filter Media - 3-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049RIUWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xsGUDb7GSFX4H
(This is at the store too)

For what you have now you can (and should really tbh) still soak in tank water before feeding. Its hard to know how much to feed with flakes, ill always prefer pellets for fish but hmm.. Idk try like 3 medium pieces ? I really am not sure

Of course! Glad to help. We've all been there and I know I'm still learning new stuff every day.

I unplug everything and use this siphon (I'm sure any is fine though) to suck out water / any obvious debris into a small plastic bucket I happened to have on hand (it's a good idea to designate a bucket to your tank). Luckily for me it was a 1.5 gallon bucket so it's perfect for 50% water changes.

Once the bucket is full I kinda shake around / "brush off" the filter cartridge in the old tank water and put it back. From what I've learned this lets you get all the nasty crap off it without compromising the beneficial bacteria. Even running it under your sink for a bit is a bad idea because of the chlorine in tap water.

I just dump out the bucket in the toilet, flush it, then refill the bucket with tap water. I try and adjust the temperature to be about the same. Put in the water conditioner according to directions. I use API StressCoat+, which I like, but a lot of people here recommend SeaChem Prime. Then just slowly pour water into tank and plug everything back in!

What kind of filter is it? You could buy a smaller one, or buy/make a sponge filter, or make a baffle, there are lots of easy DIY tutorials like this one. You really need a filter though for the good bacteria to colonize. Read up on the nitrogen cycle, it's pretty much the most important part of keeping fish. To make this so much easier a test kit like this one is great. Liquid is best, strip are not very accurate. You can take water samples to fish stores and they will test it for you, but ask if it is liquid or strips and get exact numbers for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. A Good reading is 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and more than 0 but less than 20 nitrates.

As for the gravel, get a gravel vacuum. Because you are so over stocked, and are not likely to have completed a cycle, you should be doing lots of partial water changes. Press the vacuum into the gravel to disturb it and suck up the gunk when you do a water change. In a cycled tank that is not over stocked you would only need to do a partial water change one a week or once every 2 weeks.

Another note about the filter, the manufacturer directions will tell you to change the filter pad/media once a month. This is just throwing away all the good bacteria and will reset the cycle. If the filter pad gets really really dirty or is falling apart see if you can't put a second pad in with the first for 2 weeks to let the bacteria colonize the new pad before throwing away the old.

I'm sure you heard of this, but just in case you hasn't: http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450737645&sr=8-5&keywords=aquarium+siphon

if there's too much build-up and it looks gross, try a gravel vac (just a small one like this) and just suck it out as part of your regular water change ;)

Are you referring to these? They contain a one-way valve, with a moving part. When you push down, the valve opens, letting water into the tube, but when you pull up the valve closes, holding the water in the tube so that it builds up as you shake up and down.

Normally you only need to do 30-40%. You'll definitely want this siphon, anything bigger won't fit in your tank! You pump them up and down in your tank to get the water flowing so if the intake tube is too long then you can't get it started. It's an add-on item for Amazon though so you'll probably need to order the API test kits with it in order to be able to buy it. I've also seen them in Petco.

what about an Aqueon Mini? https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1494948619&sr=1-2&keywords=mini+aquarium+gravel+cleaner

I can't tell how big that is but something like this should work for a 6 gallon. http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY?ie=UTF8&keywords=small%20gravel%20vac&qid=1464546739&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

They make various sizes of gravel vacs. Here's a baby one for small tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY