Reddit Reddit reviews Arctic Star AR550 Mini Infrared Thermometer

We found 9 Reddit comments about Arctic Star AR550 Mini Infrared Thermometer. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Industrial & Scientific
Test, Measure & Inspect
Thermometers
Temperature & Humidity Measurement
Infrared Thermometers
Arctic Star AR550 Mini Infrared Thermometer
Best accuracy in its class: + 2% of readingTake accurate temperature readings with this handheld gunRed laser pointer for precise aimingMeasures in Celsius or Fahrenheit (Range: -32 ° C to +550 ° C / -26 ° F to +1022 ° F)Batteries not included.
Check price on Amazon

9 Reddit comments about Arctic Star AR550 Mini Infrared Thermometer:

u/Feet2Big · 27 pointsr/IAmA

Heavy cookware and a good thermometer

u/janoc · 8 pointsr/PrintedCircuitBoard

OK, I see you took the shield advice. Good.

Schematics

  • Still dog's breakfast. This is very hard to follow with the lines unconnected to anything, only labeled. Labels are used to avoid a big mess of wires when you have many of them, not to avoid having to connect anything to the connector in the middle ...

  • Stick with 90 degrees wires. Move text labels out of the wires, so that they don't overlap. Also do move the labels to the actual wires they are for, otherwise it is very misleading - e.g. the 3v3 connections on the multiplexer!

  • 3v3/Vcc connections should be pointing with the arrow upwards, GND down.

  • Label the nets going to the Huzzah connector meaningfully, labels like "2" or "16" are really useless because you don't know what the net is for unless you look up the pinout. Moreover, these numeric labels are easy to confuse with pin numbers! A really wonderful way how to screw up that could make the proverbial magic smoke escape and cost you a lot of money!

  • Not quite sure what is the deal with the MOSFET and LED there? That part of the schematics is really not clear - what are you attempting to achieve? Also the net labeled "USB" makes me wonder what is going on there - normally you don't connect resistors, LEDs or buttons to anything USB. Is that the 5V from the USB connector? Then do label it as "5V" or "Vbus" or something.

  • BTW, if you are using the USB 5V, do keep in mind that the voltage on the USB connector could be anywhere between about 4.4V and 5.25V, depending on hardware and load. Especially the undervoltage (e.g. due to a long USB cable) could be an issue if you are powering circuitry directly from it. Also keep in mind the maximum power draw from a USB port - 500mA - since you are planning to run the ESP module (needs 200mA by itself) and the Neopixels ring (could be hundreds of mA or more, depending on how you are driving it) from it. If you are going to use an USB charger and not communicate with the device over USB then you can ignore the part about the power draw.

  • Re the I2C pull-up resistors - go with 4k7.

  • Re button - you need a pull-up resistor to ensure that the button line has always defined logic level. If you only connect the button to ground, the line will be disconnected (floating) when the button isn't pressed and the CPU will read random data/noise from it. You don't need to put the resistor far away with the LED, you can add the pull-up resistor on the board, in that way you have only two wires going to the button, no need to bring Vcc voltage there too.

  • The multiplexer lacks a decoupling capacitor

  • You are mentioning the Neopixels ring - where is that connected to? There is nothing on the schematics dealing with it.

  • Make sure ERC and DRC checks in Eagle pass - if they don't, your board will likely not work or not be manufacturable! (OTOH, checks passing does not mean that it will work, only that you didn't commit some elementary mistakes)


    Concerning PCB:

  • You should upload both sides of the board separately, it is very difficult to see the connections on the bottom side of the board when they are covered by the top side.

  • You could have probably moved the majority of the circuit under the Huzzah making the board smaller. However, if you are building this for a specific enclosure where the dimensions are given then ignore this comment.

  • The decoupling capacitors are in the wrong place. They must be placed right next to the chip they belong to. The right-most 100n cap has a trace going across half of the board from what I can see. That makes such capacitor useless.

  • The routing and layout is much better than what you had before, congrats. However - try to avoid running traces across the entire board. That makes the routing more tricky because you block off more space and it also makes it easier for noise to disrupt your signals. E.g. if you have placed the I2C sensors close to the Huzzah I2C pins, you wouldn't have to run the I2C traces across the board. You have a metric ton of space on that board, why don't you move the connectors out of the way? Or move the sensors.

  • Stop mask errors mean that you have something sticking out into the copper layers that shouldn't be there. Sometimes silkscreen can cause that. This post explains how to deal with it: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/122722/stop-mask-errors-in-drc



    Re MLX90614ESF

  • The schematics for MLX90614ESF is incorrect - the wires to the capacitor are not actually connected between ground and Vcc - the dot is not optional! Crossing or only touching lines are not connected (otherwise you would have shorts everywhere!). Also this little bit of schematics is a mess already - why not make the layout in such way that the wires don't overlap the text and move the capacitor symbol to minimize the length of those wires?

  • Hmm, I do wonder what are you trying to actually do that it needs an IR thermometer. This is the sort of sensor used in the contactless thermometers like this one:
    https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-AR550-Mini-Infrared/dp/B000MX5Y9C
    That will need some lens, possibly a laser to aim it (so that you can see what you are measuring/where is it pointing) and it also has quite complex data processing from what I can see. I hope you didn't buy this instead of a regular temperature sensor?
u/piercet_3dPrint · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

You can pick up a point and read infrared thermometer for around $30-$60 from most local tool vendors in your area. Typically if they have car repair stuff they will carry them. Something similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-AR550-Mini-Infrared/dp/B000MX5Y9C

I mainly print ABS myself, but the concerns I know of with PLA printing are:

  1. PLA conducts heat ridiculously well and can sometimes expand inside the extruder bore if you do not have an active cooling fan on the extruder body.
  2. PLA is sensitive to Humidity much more than ABS, so you will need to take more care to store it in a sealed, preferably desiccant rich environment between prints.
  3. PLA smells like sugar when you print it, but it does not taste like candy at all. I keep trying to get the PLA producers to fix that but none of them will return my phone calls anymore for some reason... (just kidding)
u/wmdailey · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing
u/zack822 · 2 pointsr/ballpython

there should be no reason to need any type of light, my house is at 70 and my Ball cage when he was in one stayed at 85ish in a 20 gallon tank, You definetly need a thermostat for the heat pad.
Ignore pretty much everything the pet store told you because most of them dont no crap about reptiles but how to sell a whole lot of stuff you dont need.

I also recommend getting a Infered thermometer similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Star-AR550-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C but look around they make them cheaper and do just as good.

the heating pad should be on the underside of the tank on the outside glass like so http://www.onlinegeckos.com/basic-leopard-gecko-tank-setup.html

u/clot1 · 2 pointsr/KitchenConfidential

get one of these things
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Star-AR550-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C
really convenient for checking the temperature of soups when you're heating them up and for making custard. health inspector should be impressed too, they use the same thing.

get one of these things too
http://www.daymarksafety.com/date-coders/
instead of having to write out dates with a sharpie you just click this thing and slap a sticker with the date on a container.

u/constipated_HELP · 1 pointr/videos

We have this one at the lab I work at. I recommend it. It's a laser pointer and it instantly measures the surface temp of whatever the laser is on. I've gotten a reading on the back of a coworker's neck at 40 feet.

u/The_Abe_Froman · -3 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000MX5Y9C

Quite simple really. Alton Brown swears by it