Mother boards with WiFi have external antennas (scroll down a bit), they just screw on the back like any other WiFi radio. Bluetooth receivers tend to be no bigger than USB dongle ones but they don't take up a USB slot.

Wifi motherboards do not cost more than using an external card. WiFi LGA1151. Non-WiFi.. The 3 external adapters you linked cost $37, $85 and $108 respectively. The difference between two motherboards is certainly less than $85 for one with and without Wifi.

Additionally, if you notice most of the WiFi enabled motherboards are mini-ITX where space is at a premium. Using built in Wifi is a space saver. Rather than trying to cram another PCI card in your already limited space.

There are plenty of valid reasons to buy a motherboard with built-in WiFi, don't come at me with your bullshit.

Donor? why not new?

Here's a black one

Here's an orange one from a site that you will want to use a reloadable MasterCard to buy from

while it's open replace the laser (check your model number for exact laser replacement, this is just an example)

Open ps2 loader and all that.. I ended up having to order a swap magic disk to install free mcboot but there are other ways.

This is optional and expensive, but it will also be an upgrade for any internet connected device around your TV:

• Grab 2 suggested dual-band AC routers suggested here and flash one (or both DD-WRT is awesome) with DD-WRT or Tomato. If you already have a dual-band AC router, there's no reason to replace it, just get one dual band AC router and flash it.
  
  
• If you haven't already, replace your old router with one of the new ones (the one you don't have to flash with DD-WRT). Configure it as normal, you just upgraded your WiFi significantly though.
  
  
• Take the other router and follow the instructions to install the latest version of DD-WRT/Tomato, your going to need the additional functionality of these third-party firmwares.
  
  
• configure this router as a wireless bridge device, set it to connect to your other router in the 5Ghz spectrum. Make sure that you set this router's IP address as something other than the default 192.168.1.1 or you will have to start over with a 30-30-30 reset.
  
  
• Plug it in behind your TV and plug in anything that has an ethernet port to it (the PS2 with the hard drive kit obviously, but your Xbox 360/one, PS3/4, set-top boxes, smart TV, HTPC, rasberrypi, etc)
  
  
• If your PC is pugged into the router with a cat6e and has a gigabyte nic, your done. If you have your PC on a wireless network, you need to check to see what revision of WiFi your wifi nic supports. If it supports AC, you don't have to go any further. If it's a G/N card, you will also need to upgrade it as well. Laptop suggestion, Possibly needed accessory if you need a long card, Desktop suggestion
  
  What has all this done? Well, firstly your network is now upgraded to AC and that has given you a ~1Gbps link to your modem and other PCs on the network (assuming that you upgraded them all with new WNICs). have fun transferring your entire install of Fallout 4 from one PC to the other in a matter of moments, this would be a great time to look into faster internet packages because you can handle it.
  
  But the other thing, the thing that made you have to do all this scary firmware flashing on expensive networking equipment? Your devices now have a 1Gbps link to your router as well. That's far far better than the NICs in the consoles/set top boxes and since the PS2 has no wireless NIC, this was completely necessary to have it attached to your TV and be able to stream the ISOs off your PC. The router is working backwards, using WiFi as it's WAN connection and supplying connection to the ports.
  
  This is essentially the setup I have, except I'm using my old Dual-band N router as my wireless bridge. The PS2 can load a game far faster than it could off the disk through the network, but also my 360/PS3 can download content and updates far faster than they can with their internal adapters. Anything pulling network video will be more responsive, and will be able to utilise the full speed of your internet connection for things like Netflix.
  
  Is it a lot to connect your PS2 to the WLAN? oh yeah, but your also upgrading your connection for everything else you use at the same time.

I have a network card in my gaming rig alongside a gtx 970 graphics card and the usb card is in the front of the case and plugs into the motherboard.

I have the Asus AC68U Router paired with an Arris 6190 Modem. Blazing speeds ready for Gigabit internet. I'm a network engineer, and this is what i use.

Edit: I also game with this Asus PCIe WiFi Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521657739&sr=8-2&keywords=asus+pce+ac88

I used this card when I was renting in someone's house, good card for the 6 months or so I used it. Moved somewhere else and went back to a wired connection, but it was the best card I tried.

ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-AC1900 PCI-E Adapter

http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

This one has good reviews

If you have the PCIE slot to spare, I highly recommend using that instead. You can get much better performance in both power and speed over the USB option. That being said, here are four recommendations based on your needs:

1. USB, budget - BrosTrend, $26
   
2. USB, performance - ASUS USB-AC68, $76
   
3. PCIE, budget - TP-Link Archer T4E, $35
   
4. PCIE, performance - ASUS PCE-AC68, $87
   
   Personally, I have the PCE-AC68 that I bought for $75 3 years ago and it's still rocking.

This is what I am running at home, and it works flawlessly. I own both the portable and the Shield, and use both with this router without issue.

I am also running a wireless PCE-AC68 card from my PC, instead of wired, but again have zero issues.

The R7000 is capable of 900Mbps+ WAN<>LAN.

• Make sure you're on the latest firmware.
  
• Make sure that CTF / NAT Acceleration is enabled on the R7000.
  
  
• Try a different network cable between the CL modem and R7000.
  
  
  If you want to go wireless, you need a PCI-E AC class adapter for your PC:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T9E-Beamforming-Low-profile/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/
  
  

I would avoid Wi-Fi as much as you can but sometimes it's necessary. I have tried the dongle (usb) only to have an unstable connection and for it to crap out after a couple of months. I had a mid range tp-link card and that failed after a year, and it never gave me super stable connections. The card linked below is the one I have and I've been very happy with it.

ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Dual-Band Wireless Pci-E Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-M-kDbAPWQ5NS

What.

Just a personal opinion, always connect desktops to routers via Network (Cat6) cable when possible, that said:

Basic troubleshooting steps;

1. Download a new driver
   
2. Uninstall the driver, Reboot
   
3. Reinstall the new downloaded driver
   
4. Reboot the router
   
5. Check position/placement of your antenna
   
   =====Still not working=====
   
   

• Factory Reset the router (This will require you to recreate the wireless networks and passwords, as well as reset the default admin password of the router)
  
  =====Still not working=====
  
  Look into a new wireless card;
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=psdc_13983791_t1_B00JNA337K
  
  https://www.newegg.com/asus-pce-ac88-pci-express/p/N82E16833320313

Never does. The dual and triple band stuff never works for me. I've even moved the router in the same room as my pc... it got worse.

Wifi is great for every device but my PC. My next option was to purchase either this:

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1482931397&sr=8-13&keywords=wifi+pci

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482931397&sr=8-4&keywords=wifi+pci

For me personally, I used an old ethernet cable and ran that shit literally around my room. I could not justify the $60-$90 to buy a better PCIe card. Another Option could be to get a USB dongle and then have it on a long USB Cable that you can position to get a good signal (maybe?)

Asus makes some excellent PCI-E Wi-Fi cards. I have a PCE-AC56 and it has worked flawlessly for me for over two and a half years. It's well within your price range and it offers excellent performance. If you're looking for something a bit more powerful, the PCE-AC68 is basically the upgrade to the PCE-AC56, and I can only assume it performs slightly better. A final choice is to go balls to the wall overkill with the PCE-AC88, which I find hard recommending unless you need massive range and signal strength, which doesn't seem to be something you require. It's also out of your stated price range, so this one is entirely up to you. Any one of these should handily solve your problem. If you're looking for a good quality Wi-Fi solution that doesn't take advantage of your wallet like a prison bitch, the PCE-AC56 is a great choice.

USB wifi adapters are notoriously bad, I'd go for the card. I can't say anything about the one you linked but, I have this one and it works awesome (pc upstairs, router downstairs)


https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493999913&sr=1-4&keywords=asus+wifi+adapter

It has its good days and bad days. Im just gonna grab something similar to this. https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C .

I use the ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900, after experimenting with other cards and usb wifi adapters this is easily the most stable I have used.

Here is an amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VXQ7CbW5DHTWC

This is the wifi adapter I got for my desktop when I moved into my apartment with Fiber. Link

It does a pretty good job considering. I live in a 1400sqft apartment and the fiber box is in my dining room and my desktop is in the office is on the other side of the apartment. I get like 300-400 down usually.
I've also found success in splitting off the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. The 5Ghz band is a lot weaker but I still like to connect to it because I get so much faster speeds.

$2400 4K Gaming PC

Max settings at 4K resolution will bring any existing hardware to its knees, but we can come very close to your desired 120fps. You should expect to get better framerates substantially higher than the benchmarks below because the video card in this build is clocked 13.6% higher than the reference model.

The key to achieving the highest framerates at 1440p and 4K is simply to include the strongest video card possible. This means the RTX 2080Ti with the highest boost clock frequency we can afford.

• Destiny 2 Ultra Settings:
  
• 1440p: 198fps
  
• 4K: 99fps
  
• Full benchmarks
  
• Micro Center Parts:
  
• CPU, Motherboard
  
  PCPartPicker Part List
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $299.99
  CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $90.00
  Motherboard | Gigabyte Z390 GAMING X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $119.99
  Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
  Storage | Sabrent Rocket 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $249.98 @ Amazon
  Video Card | MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card | $1199.89 @ Amazon
  Case | NZXT H700 ATX Mid Tower Case | $109.98 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | Corsair TXM Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Newegg
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $137.90 @ OutletPC
  Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-AC1900PCE PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $59.99 @ Newegg
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2457.70
  | Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
  | Total | $2427.70
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-25 21:49 EDT-0400 |
  
  

  Explanation of Part Choices:
  

  
  

• Cpu: This is the second strongest gaming cpu available. You could technically get away with the 6-core Ryzen 5 3600 or the i5-9600K, but with a budget this large it makes sense to spend a bit extra to get an 8-core cpu to future-proof the build against the possibility that future games begin using more than 6 cores. I don't recommend the more expensive 9900K because we don't need hyper threading and the performance difference at 1440p and 4K resolutions will be negligible, and we are better off spending that money on a stronger video card.
  
• Cpu Cooler: This is one of the top two air coolers available and actually delivers stronger cooling performance than most high-end AIO water coolers. It will enable you to heavily overclock the 9700K if you choose. It is currently out of stock, but will be in stock on October 29th.
  
• Motherboard: One of the cheapest motherboards with VRMs strong enough to support overclocking the 9700K. See the Intel VRMs tier list.
  
• Memory: 3000mhz is the fastest speed before intel cpus suffer heavy diminishing returns. 15CAS latency instead of 16 (lower latency results in faster cpu performance). 16GB is more than enough memory unless you will be using this PC for professional video editing or CAD work.
  
• SSD: Cheapest 2TB TLC NVMe SSD with a dram cache and a 5 year warranty (make sure you register to get the warranty). NVMe SSDs are ~3 times faster than traditional SATA SSDs. TLC SSDs are much faster than the cheaper QLC SSDs in sustained reads/writes and do not slow down as much as they fill up. I do not recommend an HDD unless you plan to store large amounts of video files. It's hard to go back to loading games from an HDD after you've experienced SSD loading speeds.
  
• Video Card: The RTX 2080Ti is the strongest gaming video card available. EVGA is considered the most reliable brand with the best customer service. I selected a high-end model (as determined by its boost clock speed). It's boost clock speed is 1755mhz, which is 13.6% faster than the basic models which are clocked at 1545mhz. There are 2080Ti's with higher clock speeds than this, but they either have poor ratings or are several hundred dollars extra, which is just a very poor value.
  
• Case: This is the high-end version of the most popular case (the H500). We want the H700 because this build has very power-hungry hardware (more power equals more heat) and the H700 has significantly better airflow thanks to its larger vents and four case fans. I selected the black and white model just because it was slightly cheaper than the all black model.
  
• Power Supply: 7 year warranty. 750W is more than enough for this 449W system, which leaves plenty of room for overclocking and future upgrades. Modular for easier cable management. 80+ gold efficiency.
  
• OS: Windows 10 Pro as requested. However, Windows 10 Home would be fine as long as this PC will not be part of a large network of computers (like in a business office) and as long as you do not care about the remote access feature that Pro has.
  
• Wifi: It is actually much cheaper to get a separate wifi adapter than to get a motherboard with built-in wifi in most cases, particularly since you need gigabit connection speeds. This model is the cheapest gigabit wifi adapter with a large sample size of good reviews. Rated for 1300Mbps on the 5.0 GHz band and 600Mbps on the 2.4hz band. You can spend a bit more on the ASUS AC1900 if you want an extension cable so that the antennas can be in a more advantageous spot. This would only be necessary if the PC will be far from the router or or if the PC will be stuck under a metal desk or something else that would significantly block wifi signals.

Yes I do (Althought I always recommend Cable over Wifi ,but I'll just assume that isn't a possiblity for you :P )

The Archer T series are good. The 3 models come up as top, T6E , T8E , T9E. Some do 802.11AC wifi others don't. Depends on your router and home network if you would have any use for that.

Those are all PCI Cards you place inside your PC. The Asus PCE-AC68 also deserves a mention if we are talking about High performance Wireless cards. Althought its expensive.

You can also go the USB route, you'll end up with dongles like this Netgear AC1200 which is a excellent USB options, but once again pricey (See the trend, dont worry we are getting there)

A more affordable PCI Options would be this TP-LINK WDN4800 N900 or a USB dongle like this TP-Link WDN4200 N900

And if you are really low on funds you could go for something like the Asus USB-N13 for 18$ or TP-Link N300 which is only 11$.

Personally I'd recommend you grab the TP N900, either the PCI or USB variant would do fine , PCI is faster, USB is probably a bit more versatile as you can use it with any PC/Laptop. N900 gets great reviews all around and it supports 802.11N , should be plenty fast for gaming. One issue the N900 seems to have is Digital signage with W10 ,so you need a different driver than the official one to get by this issue and use 5ghz. Not sure if thats relevant for you.

Either way ,you see the trend, Asus and TP-link are really my go2brands for anything networking.

I realize I still gave you a ton of choices, might not be the most helpful, but atleast you'll have some direction to look.

Didn't use it long before I sold it, but I never had issues with the ASUS PCE‑AC68. It's AC1900 and about CDN$ 118 for a new one.

LINK

Edit: Added Amazon CA link. Canadian dollar pricing

If it's a desktop get a pci or pci-e adapter like this or this. The more expensive ones will have better range/speed

I bought an Asus PCIE for $95~. It was great, but something popped in there and now it's making an annoying noise. I couldn't ignore or tune out the noise so I decided to buy a cheap USB one. I honestly don't see a difference..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/

https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS/

If you can, go with cable but if you can't definitely get a good PCI-E Wireless card like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F42V83C/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=saimdealmainsite-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00F42V83C&linkId=8ba079eb78313e163ef5e0e2d8a78c4b

Wireless is no good for gaming cos there will be so many variables like, if someone walks between the modem and the pc there will be a spike in ping usually.

oh i got the asus ac1900 pci e, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F42V83C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Heard it was strong reliable and super good atm

I have the regular AC1750 version, not the Nighthawk, so I can give you opinion on that one. Not sure they're that different tbh.

I've had this router for half a year now and it's honestly amazing. My house only has 1 Ethernet port, so plugging in was basically impossible unless I ran crazy wires all over the house. So I opted to stay WiFi. Mid this year I switched to Xfinity Blast which boasts a 150 Mbps down speed, and 10 Mbps upload speed. My old router was the NETGEAR N600, and the maximum speed it would allow on it was 60 Mpbs on Xfinity Blast. I contacted Xfinity to figure out if there's anything I can do and they basically told me to get my house rewired.

I spoke to a friend who pointed me to this router, along with this Network Card to get my maximum speed potential out of WiFi. With these duo set up, I've constantly managed to speedtest around 160 Mbps down, and around 12 Mbps upload. And this is all over WiFi! Here's the proof.

To me, this router was worth every penny (and I paid full price for this). I wanted to make sure I get all the speed that I paid for, and this router made it happen. I've rarely had to troubleshoot this thing.

This is the modem I am currently using for my set up. You'll have to look up which modem is right for your ISP, but I am linking this for reference if you are looking at Xfinity Blast.

I have this one. And they have a higher level model too. But this should be good enough for most people (especially if you're using 5ghz instead of 2.4)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F42V83C?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

The computer part is about 100$ and can handle a lot.

The router on the other side [is $350] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NT8Q24/ref=s9_cartx_gw_g147_i2_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=G0HAEQSV0HXPNZXSMHPS&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=6aad23bd-3035-4a40-b691-0eefb1a18396&pf_rd_i=desktop) and can handle multiple wifi bands on multiple devices for max throughput and range on the 5Ghz bands. For whole house coverage and max speeds for single devices this seems to be what you want, especially if you want to maximize your internet connection.

Well, that's a 3x3 router so you could potentially benefit from having a 3x3 card, which would mean going to a PCIe card after all.

However, no 3x3 PCIe cards are under $50, and the ones that come close have antennas that end up stuck behind your PC, which is a bad place for antennas.

I prefer this one that lets you put your antennas in a better location: ASUS PCE-AC68, but it's US$87.

It looks like the cheapest board with wifi is a mini-itx for $99 or +$60.

I'd probably just buy a PCIe adapter because I don't like USB things hanging off the back.

The biggest decision you'll have to make is if you want to splurge for an 802.11ac compatible wireless adapter. It's much faster, but also would bump your cost up from $20-$40 all the way to $80-$100.

For just internet browsing, 802.11n is PLENTY. You'd really only see the speed advantages of 802.11ac if you were copying files to a NAS on the network/etc. Keep in mind your router would also have to support ac.

For 802.11n, this one looks pretty popular, and is used in hackintosh builds for compatibility:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704133

For 802.11ac, maybe this one?

Asus 802.11ac router

I'm using this adapter and this router. Works like a charm.

Yeah, right now I'm torn between this TP Link and this Asus.

First, I would want to check to see what the speed of the wifi connection is inside the student housing. That card seems to me to be way overdoing it. I would recommend something more like this, especially if you're going to primarily using public wifi.

https://www.amazon.com.au/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ASUS+PCE-AC68+AC1900&qid=1574946302&sr=8-2

Then again, the first one isn't that much more, and it would be a lot more future proof for down the road.

And you can definitely use a PCIe riser, just be sure not to cheap out on it, and try to get by with as short a one as possible. ThermalTake is usually pretty good

https://www.amazon.com.au/Thermaltake-Gaming-Black-Extender-AC-053-CN1OTN-C1/dp/B06Y5YNGDJ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=pcie+riser&qid=1574946555&sr=8-6

If you sure you don't want to use a blazing fast CAT6A Ethernet Cable and rather go wireless.

Grab the ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-AC1900 PCI-E Adapter

Hello!

Need a price check on:

• [v-moda lp wired headphones](V-MODA Crossfade LP2 Vocal Limited Edition Over-Ear Noise-Isolating Metal Headphone (Matte Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYH7HXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FD.xybPP4RHKK)
  
  
• 5g / dual band wireless Card- [asus](ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-AC1900 PCI-E Adapter (PCE-AC68) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3B.xybE2N9APH)
  
  
  
• Asus strix gtx 1080 OC edition

I have an asus 5Ghz bandwidth one. I snapped one of the antennas but it has two more in working condition. You can buy a third antenna for less than 5 bucks. Here's a link. https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481594811&sr=8-1&keywords=Asus+Pce-ac68 PM for details.

Something like this would be rather nice, but there are cheaper alternatives.

I'm considering adding a wireless adapter to my computer. So, I looked at the top two rated wireless adapters on PcPartPicker and found these to be pretty popular:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/?tag=pcpapi-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GMPZ0A/?tag=pcpapi-20

My question is, is the price difference worth it in performance? I obviously would want a connection that works well in gaming and watching streams.

If you have a PCIe slot or PCI slot open, I highly suggest you get an internal card.

ex. http://www.amazon.com/PCE-N15-performance-Wireless-N-Transmit-interface/dp/B0053GR2YI/
-I have this one in my old build

http://www.amazon.com/PCE-N10-Wireless-N-Network-Transmit-Interface/dp/B004XFYGNK/

• Cheaper version of above card with only one antenna, still a solid card
  
  
  If you want to go nuts with a top of the line card:
  http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/
  
• I considered putting this one in my new build, it has support for 802.11ac (the next gen)

Don't know how much you want to spend but I have this and love it:

ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-AC1900 PCI-E Adapter (PCE-AC68) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_SJdYub1H70TP4

For people with the shittiest possible computer placement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY/?tag=pcpapi-20

Also extremely good, but less range. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/?tag=pcpapi-20

Note-This can't make up for a bad router. Just keep in mind what's on both ends here. Would your landlord be ok with range extenders or a better router?

http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418871281&sr=8-2&keywords=ac+card

I have this one and it works like a charm!

http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419869163&sr=1-5&keywords=asus+ac-68

Personally I use the AC1900. More than $70 though, but the AC1300 is probably fine too.

Unfortunately, that one looks like it won't be here til Wednesday. How's this one look?

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/?tag=pcpapi-20&th=1&psc=1

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It’s expensive, but it’s a beast

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ChtDCbVRQYSRQ

How good is this pcie cards' WLAN compared to that of this mainboard assuming that your router is in the same room?

I need a WIFI solution because I plan to build a hackintosh so I'm mainly interested whether any of these things is going to be significantly worse than the other at any of the MAC OS features that require WLAN like airdrop or handoff.

With the small USB adapters you often have undesirable location issues with the antennas being right smack next to a huge metal box. that is about the worst place for wifi devices. Even PCIe devices with external antennas are somewhat susceptible to that.

The PCE-AC68/88 being a little different, since the radio is cabled to a remote antenna.

minimum should be 2x2 AC1200, single antenna devices tend to have pretty bad performance.

Asus makes a few great adapters.


PCE-AC56


PCE-AC68


PCE-AC88

Same with tp-link

Archer T6E

Archer T9E

Pitching this one if OP has a desktop. Little pricy but took me from getting like 10Mb/s to around 85Mb/s with the router downstairs and thru like 4 walls across the house.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C

https://www.amazon.in/Asus-AC1900-Dual-Band-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538385353&sr=8-1&keywords=asus+ac1900+pceac68


Same one

From my other post

>Not the cheapest option but i have this wireless card and this router i have had no wireless issues.

The ASUS AC68 is a really high end AC card. It's not Wifi 6, but neither is your router. https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC68-Dual-Band-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=ac+pcie&qid=1569454181&sr=8-8

Unless you have the biggest house I've ever seen its not too far. Its just the cables you buy are generally short. Amazon/bestbuy and sometimes even walmart sell the really long cables. Make sure they have ends on them though or you will have to add the connectors yourself.

You could run the cable along the edges of the rooms. Behind the baseboard, ceiling edges etc. You could even run it through the walls if you wanted it to be sexy. Lots of youtube videos on it, but it will be the most frustrating thing you've ever done.

Have you considered buying an external long range wifi adapter like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1406702709&sr=1-3&keywords=asus+wifi+adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4

As for power-line adapters they can have really bad gaming performance if thats important. Seems to depend on the wiring in the house and devices on that circuit.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525125481&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=asus%2Bpceac68&dpPl=1&dpID=41PoFiRfFiL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

That's the card I currently have and it's great. They have a newer one too I think. And I sure other companies make similar cards.

Which Adapter is better? Which would you recommend?

ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-AC1900 PCI-E Adapter (PCE-AC68)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/?tag=pcpapi-20

TP-Link Archer T9E AC1900 Dual Band Wireless PCI Express Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX7AQ?psc=1

Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Combo PCI Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/?tag=pcpapi-20

That's what I was afraid of. I'm going to try the new Wifi card (thank the Amazon gods for free same-day shipping). I'm really excited to try it out, cause it seems like this will be a really good investment and will also futureproof my system.
Here is what I ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C
I realized that all of my adapters I've tried (one PCI-E and one USB) are 802.11 b/g/n, but not ac. So I think this new one will bring a lot of improvement with that protocol since my router has been broadcasting it either way.

If you want a really nice one, here you go. http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_7?

Thanks, that helps so so much. Does it matter what card I buy or can I just buy a cheap card? This card seems pretty good based on the reviews, but will it affect my ping (ms) in games at all? TP-LINK N900
Edit: Just did a little research and this much more expensive one is supposedly much higher quality, but is it really 3x (the price) better? ASUS AC 1900

e.g., ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Dual-Band Wireless Pci-E Adapter

Oh crap, forgot to mention that in the original post. The antennas are connected to an ASUS Wifi PCI card that I use when ethernet isn't available...they have a magnet that attaches them to the side of the case.

http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462341070&sr=8-2&keywords=asus+wifi+card

My experience and reviews I've seen is that the built in mobo WiFi is not that great.

I personally use this . The external antenna seems to help quite a bit, and being on the 5GHZ range means less interference from common wireless devices. I have minimal ping drop and actually have seen faster speeds than my lan connection surprisingly, and that is pushing it through 2 walls.

Another factor is your router itself. I opted to get a nice $200+ wireless modem / router so that it has a good WiFi signal. You might need a better wireless router and the on board mobo WiFi might be fine.

Probably best to test out the mobo WiFi and see if you get bad latency or reduced speeds, the incrementally upgrade from there.

My wireless adaptor has a heatsink so I don't think it's that.

http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C

I've had very good success with the ASUS PCE-AC68 PCI wireless adapter for several years now, and it is linux compatible. Just keep in mind that you'll never likely reach advertised speeds over wireless - wired is the only way to guarantee a connection. There are too many variables to wireless. I've had no issues using a 170Mbps connection though.

the wifi I'm the TUF board is only a 2x2 configuration. Asus made the same mistake with the GA502 there is an LTT video on the ga502 that demonstrates the 2x2 card. I would recommend getting a ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Dual-Band Wireless Pci-E Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yZGyDbNY2VMGH

it uses a 6x6 config and it has. heatsink so it's much more stable. there is also a cheaper variant with 2 antennes but only 897 megabits per second.

PCI express. What's your budget? This is top end, This is mid-range

http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405989053&sr=1-1&keywords=asus+wifi+pcie

I saw it listed in a couple of articles about them

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C

Archer cards may have issues with Windows 10 drivers, from my own experience. I'd suggest something else - IMO a much better option is:
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C