Reddit reviews Behringer U-Control UCA202 Ultra-Low Latency 2 In/2 Out USB Audio Interface with Digital Output
We found 272 Reddit comments about Behringer U-Control UCA202 Ultra-Low Latency 2 In/2 Out USB Audio Interface with Digital Output. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Ultra-flexible audio interface connects your instruments, mixer, etc. with your computer for recording and playback
I have always wanted to have a "smart" radio. My parents have always owned various Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony radio decks, but they always had their cons to them (clunky OS, different type of touch screens that suck, lack of features, very expensive $800-$2000), useless features, etc.). I wanted something that runs Android 6.0+. I thought about using iPads, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of money for something that is going to be used in my car only. I wanted a budget friendly "smart" radio. That is when I found the perfect tablet, the Nexus 7 2013. Cheap, powerful, Android 6, compact, somewhat thin and small, and best part, it fits in a double-din radio deck.
After finding various projects that people have used, I decided to order a bunch of stuff from Amazon (everything was bought with Prime) and see if I could get this to work. It took about 3 weeks to work out all the bugs, but it runs perfect now. I never found anyone that did this mod in a Nissan Pathfinder, so that was difficult going on my own, reading various wiring diagrams and getting power, sound and steering wheel controls to work. After lots of testing each wire, and lots of trial and errors, everything is working how I want it too.
Questions that people have asked me that I can remember on the top of my head:
Q: How do you turn the tablet on and off if the power button is blocked?
A: Easy, with Timur's Kernel, and the USB car charger hooked up to the accessory power, when I turn my key on/start my car, the tablet detects power from the USB, which wakes the screen/powers on. (ELI5: there are 2 power sources in your radio, a constant 12 volt power, and an accessory key power. So when you turn the key to ACC or ON, it gives power to the tablet, but when you turn the key off, it takes away power from the USB port.)
Q: How does it hold up in the wonderful California heat?
A: Shockingly very well. It hasn't given me any issues in ~95F (+35C) degree weather. There was a day where it was 115F (46C) degrees outside, and that is when the tablet finally said NOPE and started locking up and freezing due to the ridiculous heat. After running my AC for a few minutes, it cooled the tablet down to reasonable temperature and ran normally again. When my car is parked, I have a windshield sun shade that helps a ton with keeping the sun off my black/gray dash, and/or microfiber towels over the screen to keep the sun off. If it's super hot, I just take the tablet/radio/air conditioner part out of my car and bring it inside (not that hard to remove).
Q: How do you control the volume?
A: With the JoyCon EXC, it translates either CAN, IBUS, resistive, or digital steering wheel control signals, to USB keyboard signals that the tablet can see. I have the Joycon setup to have Volume UP/DOWN, Screen ON/OFF, PAUSE/PLAY, and PREVIOUS/NEXT. Click here for more information.
Q: How do you listen to the radio/music?
A: Spotify Premium. While I can spend ~$10 on a radio antenna to USB to listen to over-the-air radio stations, I never listen to the radio. When I had my old stock radio, I never listened to the radio part. I always used my 3.5mm jack to plug in my phone for Spotify. Great perk about being a broke college student is getting 50% off Spotify Premium.
Q: Can you/do you watch TV or movies on it while you drive?
A: I can, but I don't. Pay attention to the freakin' road.
Q: How do you get internet on it since it's a WiFi version?
A: I use my Bluetooth hotspot on my phone to get internet for Waze, Google Maps, etc. I can also use the WiFi hotspot, but that uses more power. I can drive from California to Idaho running Waze the whole way and it uses about ~300MB of data.
Q: Can you make phone calls with it?
A: This has been something I have been trying, but have not had success with yet. I use an app called [TabletTalk] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apdroid.tabtalk&hl=en), but it doesn't push the microphone/sound through the tablet. I gave up on this since I have a Samsung Gear 2 Neo smartwatch that has a microphone/speaker on it. Some day I will explore with this more.
Q: How do you power your speakers if you removed the radio?
A: I lucked out big time with this issue because my Nissan Pathfinder has the Bose System built in. That means that there's an amplifier already installed that powers the speakers. So the tablet sends the sound to the Behringer UCA202 DAC, that then converts to a 3.5mm headphone jack that then splits into the Left Front/Rear, Right Front/Rear, and dual subwoofer channels that go to the car wiring harness that then goes to the amp. This saves me hundreds of dollars. For vehicles without a stock amplifier that rely on the radio for power, that is when you will need to buy an amplifier to power the speakers. My 12 inch subwoofer also plugs into the DAC and works perfectly.
Q: I see the reverse camera, how did you get that to work with the tablet? How does the tablet know when you are in reverse?
A: There were 2 ways to get this to work, one way is by video detection, or the other way is by the JoyCon EXC. I chose to do the video detection way because it was simpler and waiting about one second for the app to open was fine with me. I use an app called EasyCap viewer.
Q: Why is there paper over the JoyCon, EasyCap, USB charger etc.?
A: The plastic pieces over the EasyCap and USB charger were bulky/broken. The JoyCon didn't come with a cover. Paper was the easiest/closest thing I had at the moment. If only I had a 3D printer. Someday..
Q: Why is the mic in the vent and not somewhere else? Doesn't the wind from the HVAC cause problems?
A: It was a last-second add-on and just put it in there without having to rewire the harness. I also didn't know where to move it that made it look "stock". I've gotten some great opinions on where to move it! Thanks for those!
I'll add more common questions here when I think of them.
Breakdown of Parts:
Price | Part
---|---
$100 | Nexus 7 2013 32GB WiFi (flo) (bought from /r/hardwareswap)
$5 | Nissan Radio Wiring Harness
$6 | AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub
$20 | Esky EC135-05 Rearview Camera
$95 | JoyCon EXC
$7 | Tendak OTG USB cable
$30 | Behringer UCA202
$7 | VideoSecu Amplified CCTV Microphone
$25 | Timur's Kernel v4.0 for Nexus 7 2013
$10 | Maxboost Car Charger
Free/Other/Already owned | EasyCap USB Video Capture Card, RCA cables, 3.5mm audio cables, USB cables, 12-16 AWG wire, grinder, zipties, paper, hotglue, other random stuff.
TOTAL COST | ~$305
TL;DR: Modified my Android tablet to work as a replacement for my radio. Worth it? YES. Best Radio Ever.
Have Questions? Ask away. Since I had to learn most this crap on my own, I can share my experience with others and give pointers in the right direction.
EDIT #1: Formatting.
EDIT #2: RIP my inbox. I would never have guessed this would get this popular. I'm just speechless. Wow. Thanks everyone! Trying my best to reply to everyone! Also added another question to this.
$30 DAC - Link - Please know these aren't game changers, it's only offering better quality sound than your motherboard. If your headphones or speakers aren't that great, it's not doing to do much. Weakest link type of thing. If your headphones suck, these wont help. But if you have a decent set of phones, many people have sworn by these.
$75 DAC - Link - More expensive, better sound output. Again, should be paired with even higher quality sound gear. $100+ speakers/headphones.
$115 DAC - My Dac - Link - I needed a dac with a little power. I use speakers with my setup instead of headphones. This one is 2x25. It's honestly the most anyone should need for a 2.0 system.
$80 Speakers - Link - These are mine. I love them. Best combined $200 I've spent. Instead of a CPU that will need to be replaced in two years, these will out last many builds if I take care of them. The reviews are through the roof compared to the price. And I'd have to agree.
There are a million reviews about the topping DAC + Micca speakers. Things feel more immersive. I think that's the simplest way to put it.
To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.
DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI
Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC
Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K
Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2
Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ
With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O
Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S
This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.
You are playing too much Aphex Twin.
What you are actually hearing is a classic case of poorly shielded onboard audio hardware and/or poorly grounded hardware. Since pushing on the connector helps that means it is probably the latter. You have to ground the plugs manually by physically adjusting them or soldiering them. Another option is not using your onboard soundcard and getting something like this behringer dac to replace your soundcard and separate your audio from all the bad inside your PC.
This question might be better suited for /r/audioengineering .
Who will ask you what the fuck you're doing starting a label to produce cassettes. Nobody has a cassette player anymore. But at least some of the old-timers will probably have the know-how.
As a side note, the Behringer UCA202 (or 222, choose your color) is a really affordable USB interface with line-level RCA inputs and outputs. I use mine as a DAC outputting line-level audio to my headphone amplifier. It sends a nice clean signal and only costs $30. I assume you would take that line-level signal from the stereo RCA outputs and plug it into the input on whatever cassette recorder you wind up with.
Behringer UCA202 - This is what I use with my laptop.
Fucking excellent.
Best answer is probably/maybe. Here are some options at different price points:
$30 UCA202
$76 FiiO E10K
$100 Modi 2
$150 ODAC
I've used a Behringer UCA-202 on Fedora 19, Fedora 20, and Debian Wheezy. It's always been a plug-and-play affair. It has a headphone jack and is reasonably priced.
It sounds good to boot.
Swan D1010-IV powered bookshelves cannot be best for under $70:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058QMRCK
Monoprice's basic 8" powered sub is just $60 right now:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8248
So, at this point you should still have around $60 left to work with. I would recommend spending that on some kind of external DAC; pretty much anything will be an upgrade over the onboard outputs from your motherboard. This unit from Behringer is well-regarded and gets the job done for $30:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI
Grab two of these RCA splitters from Monoprice; you'll use them to split the one set of left and right outputs from the DAC into two, to route each to both the Swans and there sub:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=663
Grab a couple sets of these RCA cables to run from the splitters, to both the Swans and the sub (they're available in 6, 12, and 25 feet; get whatever you need to reach, probably 6 for the Swans and maybe 12 for the sub):
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2009
Let me know if you have any other questions (hooking things up, etc), or would like further recommendations. Enjoy!
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Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:
More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.
Get a Digital Aanalog Converter.
The same company makes an 8" or 10" powered sub that is usually recommended with these speakers. The sub itself is around $80-$90 iirc, so it would be difficult to get something under $100 total.
Also note that these speakers require an amplifier.... which will drive your total cost up a bit.
If you need an amp, you could look at
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-650
You could always add in a cheap USB DAC (digital to analog converter) such as
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333570606&sr=8-1
To bypass your sound card (your sound card has a DAC built in, but its probably shit).
As far as needing the sub, it really depends on what kind of sound you want. I would recommend getting the 2.0 (just speakers) first, and adding a sub (bringing you to a 2.1 system) if you feel like the bass is lacking.
I have those two speakers, without a sub, and I am very pleased with them.
These speakers are frequently recommended for people looking for the best sound at a low budget.
Honestly, If I were in your shoes, I'd grab a BEHRINGER UCA 202 along with a Beyer Dyanmic DT 880 Pro 250 ohm, with a Schiit Vali 2
Upgrading from the DT 880 is difficult to do, as it's very neutral. You can compliment it with something like a Senn HD 650, but for less money you can just swap a Mullard Tube into your Schiit Vali 2, and then if and when you want more, you can easily upgrade the Dac, as the DT 880 will scale nicely!
A full setup that will record four local mics, max, or two local mics and a Skype caller. A choice of mics.
Behringer UMC404HD interface for $100 (needs a USB cable I think)
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC404HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLHM/
Behringer HA400 headphone amp for $25
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-BEHRINGER-MICROAMP/dp/B000KIPT30/
Needs two TRS 1/4" stereo cables, one for the headphone amp and one for Skype. $10
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-105-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYF/
Behringer XM1800S three pack of good enough mics for $40
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XM1800S-BEHRINGER-ULTRAVOICE/dp/B000NJ2TIE/
or a slightly better Behringer XM8500 at $20 each
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/
or a very nice Blue enCORE 100 at $60
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-enCORE-100-Studio-Grade/dp/B002SQJL9U/
A couple 9-foot XLR cables for $12 or vary as you see fit
https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Cable-Male-Female-Microphone/dp/B074KYQ66J/
On-Stage, desk stand for $13 (lots of options)
https://www.amazon.com/Stage-DS7200-Adjustable-Microphone-Stand/dp/B0002M3OVI/
You need some RCA to 1/4" TS cables. Technically two though there are reasons up to four and this six pack is cheap at $8. Wish they were shorter.
https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Patch-Cable-Cords/dp/B0010XVYGA/
or you can get by with one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-201-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O16/
and my personal favorite, the UCA202 for $30
https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI/
This gives you full Skype access to the other rig for Two local mics.
!
The best portable, closed headphones are the Sennheiser HD 25-1 II which are only $175 right now. They will block out significant amounts of outside noise, and keep your music to yourself. Being professional headphones, they are very durable and can be easily repaired.
What you're asking for in a USB connection is going to require a separate DAC. That is a whole separate issue, and you can easily spend another $100 on that alone. This $24 Behringer unit would probably be the cheapest one worth trying.
Mixxx's wiki about this subject
X-Session Controller
USB soundcard for master output
Use your regular headphone out on your laptop for cueing.
A dac, possibly (depending on your source). An amp, definitely skip. Unless you plan on getting more detailed or power hungry cans in the near future. I'd be more worried about your source files at this point. And if you are curious about an entry level dac, the behringer uca202 is like $20-30. I still use mine to rip vinyl and connect optical to my receiver.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505704590&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Uca202&dpPl=1&dpID=41IUcFvupvL&ref=plSrch
And black friday is just around the corner.
It looks like you can get them on cassette:
http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=13777726779&searchurl=kn%3Dwhiteout%2520tennant
I get books this way all the time and use a used cassette player I got at Goodwill (they sell used stuff pretty cheap) with this AD-Converter to make my own mp3s of it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI
I don't believe you'd be doing anything against copyrights or licenses to buy the cassette version.
Edit: you might also be able to get it through your local library doing an Interlibrary-Loan (ILL) through WorldCat: https://www.worldcat.org/title/whiteout/oclc/225090207&referer=brief_results When I narrow the results to "Canada" there are quite a few libraries holding it.
Edit2: it looks like the cassettes are abridged. But I was able to request the unabrided CDs through my library (I'm in the US).
EMI interference is a pain. It's impossible to test all the combinations of motherboard and GPUs.
One thing you could try is moving the GPU to a different PCIE slot.
Or you could just get an external DAC, these are really good for the price and will beat most any onboard audio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi Zeos,
Which combination would you recommend?
Headphones:
DAC/AMP:
I will use the setup at work, hence isolation and comfort are important. Nevertheless I'm not competent enough to decide myself if there's enough power for 80ohm headphones from each DAC/AMP
Thanks!
These Swan M10's are meant to be quite good, you could use the spare cash to buy a cheap DAC.
An even better option that is very upgradeable is this selection of components for just over your budget at ~$170.
Another option is M-Audio Studiophile AV40.
Just a word of warning, try to stay away from any speakers that are marketed as for "gamers". An example of this are Logitech (although the more expensive 5.1 setups are know to be fairly good).
Good luck!
That's almost certainly your GPU causing some interference. A cheap, surefire way to fix that would be to grab an external DAC, like the one in the UCA202.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372590150&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+uca202
This should be sufficient for your use case
The UCA202 is pretty well recommended, it's a good DAC and has RCA and Optical outputs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI
What about this? Would this do me any good?
Behringer UCA202
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI
Saved you $200.01 American dollars and you get a better product for a low price of $28.99.
I could recommend a 7.1 card, and if you must have a 7.1 sourround headset, this is a fairly swell soundcard it: Asus Xonar DS
Having done as you ask, let me ask something. Do you really need a gimmicky 7.1 Headset? Because that's what it is: a gimmick. The individual drivers in the headset will not only be smaller (and thus lose any quality in bass, and be incredibly tinny in higher trebles), but the incredibly limited space for driver placement (opposed to how with a home theater, you have the entire room to place the speakers for surround) in the headphones, meaning that you'll find it incredibly difficult to actually discern the direction of a given sound in the 3d environment of a game, making the feature ever so slightly pointless.
Infact, in my experience (I've owned both a Turtlebeach 5.1 headset, and a 7.1 Razer Megalodon), even software virtualization techniques (for example, Dolby's Pro Logic software) beat a given 7.1 equipped headset in ability to make clear the direction of a given sound.
As many no doubt will recommend you do in this thread, I must recommend you pick up a quality set of headphones, and this is a good place to start looking for one. Along with that, I'd recommend you get a quality DAC (Digital-to-Analog converter, they function kind of like soundcard, but offer alot of benefits over a sound card, at the price of being outside the computer) such as this.
Of course, it's all subjective, and there's no way for me to convince you of the lovemaking-sounds a high quality set of headphones (with a DAC) can provide, without your experiencing it yourself. Whatever you decide to do, best of luck to you.
Sounds like your line level is a bit low - maybe a poor output from your soundcard?
I recommend dropping like 30$ and getting this http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI to see if that doesn't help your problem.
I'm guessing the dynamic range on the output for your sound card isn't great and music tends to be on the louder side so the issue isn't as apparent there.
Also could be poor noise floor on your amp - solve this by putting an inline pre-amp (to raise your signal level for quiet material) or unless you have a real high power amplifier (explaining the poor noise floor) I'd just grab a T-Amp or a cheap stereo amp like this http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346872929&sr=1-2&keywords=t+amp (lower power higher fidelity). I say this because you will have to remember to turn the pre-amp down for louder material to avoid breaking your amp (it may not care, but more than likely you will damage it if your signal input gets too high)
or this http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA1-30-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B0012KZNP4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346873001&sr=1-2&keywords=2+channel+amplifier (little more power, probably not as good SQ but it is well enough reviewed, and I'm sure there is probably minimal audible noise at listening levels)
Also could be noise from your soundcard output - if you unplug the signal cable from the amp is the hiss still present? if not just grab that behringer dac I linked to above and it will sort you out
zed is on point with what hes saying. I would add that the 8050 seems to be pretty similar to the 8255 in terms of the quality of sound reproduction. ie same THD. The 8050 does have more power and the bells and whistles that zed mentions.
You need to check out your computer first. What kinda of sound card you have and if you need a better DAC. If not do you have digital out for sound. As far as I know most laptops dont have a digital out so you would still "need" a USB DAC. (You might find that the integrated sound card does the job and you can use the headphone out on the computer.
Personally I look for barebones stuff for an amp/reciever and I would prolly go for the 8255 and save the $100 difference. Then you could see if the headphone out works out well enough and if not grab a DAC.
An interface goes between an audio source and a computer. It converts an analog signal to digital, and sends it to your PC via USB, FireWire, thunderbolt.
In your situation, iPad->interface->computer.
An interface is the correct solution. Using your line input on your computer is an option and may work, though.
Ninja edit: you would plug in what you call an aux cable to your iPad and something like this
Double edit: even cheaper
ok, your desktop PC should have a blue plug at the back:
http://i.imgur.com/sXF0D.png
plug the console into this port with the adapter.
now, connect the speakers to the green as usual.
go into your sound properties on your computer:
for windows 7 it would be control panel -> sounds -> manage audio devices
click on recording and you should see the line in option. turn on listen to this device. now, when you do that, you can see it pop up in the volume control. open volume control in the bottom right near the clock and click mixer. you can control how loud the console is in comparison to the PC sounds.
http://i.imgur.com/sS7Tr.png
if you dont want to do all of this PC fiddling, you need to get a mixer:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009XH4HU/
which does the same thing, but has more inputs and does not rely on the PC.
if you want more inputs for your pc, you need to get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI/
which will add one more stereo input.
Just buy the Behringer UCA202 and be done with it.
It's only $30. It has great quality for the price. It has a headphone jack (and volume potentiometer) as well as RCA line-outs for going to a line-input (NOT pre-outs - use in conjunction with a preamp/receiver). It also has optical out for direct digital passthrough, should you decide to get a better DAC in the future.
Like /u/ulgreswo, I used a different card; the Xonar DG. In my case, it did work under linux alright, but I'd always have to tamper with a setting under alsamixer in the terminal to get it to output sound on any fresh install of linux. Not sure if the DGX would be any different in that regard.
Also the audio-quality wasn't really all that spectacular, as I would still get buzzing and beeps due to interference from the LAN port.
In the end, I sold it and instead replaced it with this external USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter), which was very affordable, and put out excellent sound. This particular DAC interested me due to the well written review on the Amazon page from Jayteck, where he describes replacing the capacitors on the board for even better sound quality. I followed the instructions contained in the comments, and found that it does indeed sound quite superb when these modifications are done (though it sounded better than the Xonar DG even without the mod).
Alternatively, I've also read great things on various audio enthusiast forums about this Behringer DAC, which is also quite affordable.
Due to using USB, both of those DAC's are plug-n-play with Linux, and require absolutely no configuration to get working. The only potential downside is that they do not have microphone inputs, and only output stereo audio.
I know you said under $100, but I've never known anyone to regret spending that little bit extra on a set of cans (except people who bought Beats™). Assuming you're going to be using them for mixing work as well as leisurely listening, I can highly recommend [Sennheiser's HD 380s] (http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-380-Pro-Collapsible-Professional/dp/B001UE6I0G). There are very few other products in your price range that compare.
When you have a little extra scrilla on hand, I also recommend picking up one of these so you can boost the output level to the 380s. The power, clarity, and control offered by this combination is an amazing value.
Yes. /u/I_eat_mangoes is pointing you in a good direction. Definitely need an amp. I also recommend looking into the O2 or the O2+ODAC Combo. I've heard really good things about both. The Schiit Stack - Magni and Modi - are a little less expensive. The nice thing about them is you can just get the amp at first and add on the DAC later if needed.
I have a UCA202 floating around somewhere, and the sound is surprisingly good for the money. It certainly might be all the DAC you need.
If you can only afford one thing, I would get whatever amp you can afford and add a DAC later.
Go for a used pair of active KRK, Roland, or Yamaha studio monitors. If you're patient I bet you could find a steal for ($100-$150) on craigslist. Hook em up with a behringer usb audio interface (used as well) and toslink digital cable. You could get a MUCH better setup for around $150.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KRK-Rokit-5-G3-RP5G3-5-Active-Powered-Studio-Monitor-Speaker-White-/181573222913?pt=US_Pro_Audio_Speakers_Monitors&hash=item2a469b8201
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
So you have a couple of different options.
You can get a PCIe sound card with an optical output on the back:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zRckcf/asus-sound-card-xonardgx
Or a USB audio interface:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI/
I personally prefer USB based options. They are easier to swap between computers if you need to do that.
Connect your laptop to this DAC with USB, then connect that with a pair of red and white phono leads to an amp like this or this which will power your speakers. There are loads of little amps like that on eBay that can be had for very little money if you're willing to wait for delivery from China vs getting one from a UK 3rd party, (my SA-50 was £33 and took about 3 weeks to arrive.)
https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI?crid=1RLE08EIBRMC&keywords=behringer+audio+interface&qid=1537566551&sprefix=behringer%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-10&ref=sr_1_10Get one of these then use the controller output into the usb souncard rca inputs the pc will pick it up as an USB input so will B.U.T.T i actually own one and it works great .
It also doesnt do USB, making it useless for many.
​
Here is a decent USB DAC:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-UCA202-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/
You're looking at the wrong stuff here. All of these are going to sound terrible.
USB DAC. That way you can plug into the computer via USB.
From there, go into a Lepai amp and Dayton speakers. This setup will sound so much better than the ones you were looking at.
First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.
​
If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.
​
If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).
​
If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
For the DAC, I'd suggest the excellent behringer UCA202, but the speakers are by far the most important part of the system. Getting the best speakers might mean going without an external DAC for a while.
Hey /r/audiophile! Three questions for you today.
I have seen the Behringer UCA202 recommended on here a few times for a DAC, but I am considering the UFO202 instead because I want to also be able to record vinyl to my computer. Is this the right choice? Will I still be able to use the UFO202 as a DAC for playback?
Also, if I plug a 3.5mm to RCA cable from the headphone jack of my computer to the AUX input of a receiver (Yamaha CR-450), will I get any additional benefit from adding a DAC, or does the receiver serve as a DAC?
3rd question: If I were to use that same 3.5mm to RCA cable to go from the headphone jack of the UCA/UFO202 to the receiver, would that be just as good as getting an RCA-RCA cable, or would that throw away some or all of the benefit of the DAC in the first place?
Thanks!
This is probably the cheapest I'd recommend. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
Maybe someone can correct me, but according to the manual for that receiver, it has an output impedance of 470ohms. That's a bit high for HD800s (and just high in general, like most AVRs jacks).
You're also possibly double amping it by amplifying the signal out of your MacBook and then again in the receiver. I think people tend to overstate this as a problem though.
Apple usually has a good reputation for DACs, but a cheap external DAC like this one will feed a line level signal to your receiver at least. This DAC just got an update with a new DAC IC that people are excited about.
You'll find tons of amp recommendations for the HD800 here so I won't even bother going into much detail.
Ultimately though, if it's loud enough and it sounds good, I wouldn't bother tinkering unless you really want to.
You are coming from the stereo output (2 channels) of your mixer. You need an interface with two inputs. You could use the Scalet 2i2, but the Scarlet interfaces are made for microphones, not line-level inputs like your mixer.
All you really need is one of these. Depending on what computer you are using, all you may need is just an RCA to 3.5mm cable like this.
Hope this helps!
for the price, this is an excellent DAC. Not $400 quality, but you probably aren't looking for that. Optical out is a big pro btw. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1325278076&sr=8-1
I have no idea whether or not it would damage the headphones or if it would even really work, but I'm curious if you have a standalone DAC or DAC/AMP. usually any noise you get from headphones on your computer would be caused by interference in the motherboards on-board audio. If you don't have a dac or dac/amp, consider getting one as it might just eliminate the noise you experience without having to use a device like this. You can get a cheap standalone dac like this or this. Now, idk what version of the DT770 you have, but if it more than the 32 Ohm, you could also consider getting a cheaper DAC/AMP combo from SMSL or FiiO.
Yes. That's the exact sound it would make. In that case, a USB DAC would probably help, but it doesn't have to be expensive. Even this would probably be an improvement: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
Instead of spending $30 on a USB headphone splitter the OP would be much better off in every way buying an actual amp/dac for the same price.
The line in on your soundcard is built for literally pennies. Using it will almost always result in horrible audio, regardless of what software you use. Audacity is fine for recording direct tracks.
The next step up would be to get a usb audio interface, it will sound much better recording through that.
Here is a cheap one:http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396199199&sr=8-1&keywords=UCA+202
If you can't buy ANYTHING.... well do you have a smartphone? Your smartphone's mic placed 5-10 feet from the amp with a decent volume will sound better than the line in on your sound card. Do a bunch of takes until you find the best placement and amp volume.
Spotify and cellphones are certainly not high quality audio sources. If your having trouble with a particular sound device on linux you might just want to try a different device.
Are you paying for Spotify? The free version audio quality is pretty terrible. With premium if you set the quality to very high its ok.
The sound interface on most phones isn't all that great. It's optimized for speech and not music. Some phones are better than others.
These are slightly better than your typical built in audio interface and work good under linux:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-UCA202-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=behringer+usb+audio&qid=1565255621&s=gateway&sr=8-5
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
This USB DAC will give you the best bang for your buck until you want to drop big money on stuff. I've been using mine for about 6 months now, and really dig the quality. It's also great for using headphones (if they don't need a dedicated amp), since it's a much higher quality than your typical pc headphone jack. Soundcard's aren't really worth the money, IMO, unless you're gonna try setting up a 7.1 system or something. But with your current setup, the USB DAC -> RCA output -> receiver -> speakers should be solid.
Also, check into building some monitor stands, or stacking some books up to set them on. Getting the tweeters around ear level makes a big difference in the sound at your listening position.
Placement makes a big difference. /u/zeospantera has some nice guides on setup, often referring to this diagram he's drawn up of the suggested placement for a 2.0 system. You can also play around here with different recommendations from around the web with a good visual.
Well I record my PO-20 using this interface and this wire. It's all worked perfectly well for me.
I used an analog USB sound card (specifically, this one).
If you have a question about a youtube video check the description. I'll be nice and spoon feed you like a child.
> Published on Aug 7, 2013
>MUSIC STARTS AT 7:25 .. A mostly in-depth look at my makeshift 2.2 setup. (Lots of Annotation Corrections and Details) May not be repeatable without the exact parts found here. Which makes it one of a kind. Cheap speaker builders of the internet. I challenge thee.
>Like always recorded with a GoPro Hero3 : http://amzn.to/15i5RQb and a Tascam DR-40 http://amzn.to/10muUkS (Slightly over-modulated in this video) all of it dubbed over in Audacity. Here is the Behringer DAC I can't praise enough http://amzn.to/T5fG38 and the NEW daytons that are 96% as good as these old Dayton B652's http://amzn.to/17K6TIT . Everything else is vintage or non-existent like the Design Acoustics PS-SW10 sub and the Pioneer VSX-D1S Receiver.
>Join my damn Ventrilo - dc01.nagametech.com port 8701
Hi; if you have powered speakers, a simple device like this one, which I've used for years with no problem, should suffice:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
your boses will probably not benefit from the amplifier but that won't hurt either.
also have a look at things like this one, they're pretty popular around here.
If you really want a DAC, buy the ODAC. The blog has some reviews for FiiO.
I'd recommend buying the O2 headphone amp and a cheap DAC by Behringer if you budget doesn't allow the ODAC.
That's the amp! The speakers are Pioneer SP-BS41-LR and the stands are Sanus NF36B. There's also a Behringer DAC that I've hidden on the left side of the cable rack.
I also vouch for the Behringer XENYX 1202. It's relatively inexpensive and reasonably powerful. You'll also need one of these for USB interface:
Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface
I recently bought one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sound quality is fantastic and there is no audio delay. Would definitely recommend it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
when all else fails
I have this one working in my car (through an OTG adapter):
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI
Still looking for a hub/OTG adapter that will let me charge the phone at the same time, though.
Plug the turntable into a phono preamp with USB support. Or if you already have a nice phono preamp (without USB) or your receiver has a nice phono preamp, you can use an audio interface like this one.
So, to break it down in simple terms, these good options:
Turntable -> USB phono preamp
Turntable -> phono preamp -> USB audio interface
Turntable -> stereo receiver with phono input -> USB audio interface (via receiver's "Tape Out")
I've heard good things about these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414251551&sr=8-1
Behringer UCA202
Also, since I'm getting a lot of questions, might as well post my headphone guide
i'm not sure what this is, or if it's any good, but this is what i use to bypass my laptop's shitty on-board audio.
Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface
You certainly can go cheaper than that. You’re just plugging in a mic/guitar/headphones yeah? If so you can use pretty much any USB interface with 2 inputs. Should be around $100
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07664LMPQ/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074F2V6VJ/?th=1&psc=1
That’s your best option, the cheapest option would be to continue using your Yamaha mixer, and to connect the LINE OUT from the mixer to your computer using a cheap USB converter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/
You want portable or is this just at home?
If you're only at home O2/ODAC combo or the Magni/Modi combo.
Magni: http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=13
Modi :http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=14
O2 : http://www.jdslabs.com/item.php?fetchitem=o2full
ODAC (this is the combo and the odac by itself) http://www.jdslabs.com/storecat.php?fetchcat=5
If you want to be on the go as well at home I would say the E17/E09k combo. This way you can take the E17 on the go but dock it at home.
E17 : http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1368754570&sr=1-1&keywords=e17
E09k : http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1368754606&sr=1-2&keywords=e17
If you want to do away with a pricier DAC a behringer uca202 is an easy substitute.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1368754731&sr=1-1&keywords=uca202
Edit - Links
For gear demos I use one of these to record straight into my iPhone using the CCK.
Behringer UCA202 U-Control Ultra low-latency 2 In/2 Out USB/Audio Interface https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GGtaBbH7WP55F
If I am recording a track then I record the audio into a Zoom H1, then I master it on my Mac before importing the audio into iMovie and attaching it to the video.
You can see/hear how this turns out on my latest video
https://youtu.be/BywKoNRX9wY
For those interested in doing this, but don't have the equipment, here are several audio interfaces for capturing vinyl to digital:
The Behringer UCA202 would be good for setups with an external preamp, output through the monitor function (tape out) of a receiver with built-in phono preamp, or a turntable with a built-in preamp.
The UFO202 has a built-in phono preamp and would be good for connecting the turntable directly to the computer -- no external preamp or receiver needed. The ART USB Phono Plus would be the same, except you will get a definite upgrade in clarity and presentation with it's phono preamp.
All of these interfaces max out at 16 bit / 48 kHz, so they are not high-res (24 bit / 88.2 kHz or higher), but they are going to capture at CD or better quality, which should be fine in most instances.
Well, ideally a higher end one. If you can find a cheaper DAC with balanced outputs, then go for it. But if you want something simple, then something like this would work too. You just need the RCA to TS connectors.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
This is a USB DAC, for example. A USB DAC is basically any kind of audio device, such as a USB sound card, headphone, or speaker.
DAC means digital to analogue converter.
From what it says in the specifications, it comes with an RCA adapter? You could use the audio input from an RCA connection from this to get audio through USB. I'm currently using this particular USB DAC and it works fine. It's got left and right channels for input as well as output.
As for the loss of audio quality, I don't know much about this in the way of distortion, but I've noticed no distortion whatsoever. Somebody else, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong about this.
here is a decent one
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
You can use this. Connect it to the computer and send the ps3 rca cables to the input of the uca222, it has a switch(monitor) that let you hear whatever you connect.
Audio out of the PC is easy:
The Cheap Way using internal sound card
Or using an external DAC
For the 360 it will output audio and HDMI at the same time, there is just a plastic shield over the hdmi port when the component cable is plugged in. Options are:
you can break it off the plastic tab so both the component cable and hdmi cable can be plugged in at the same time or
Get an xbox vga cable
I didn't think the wii had hdmi out so I have no idea what you are doing there.
How much money are you willing to spend?
If you're only looking for a headphone amp, a solid (and probably one of the cheapest) options is an O2. If you have the tools and know-how, it's easy (and cheaper) to DIY.
If you're also willing to buy a DAC, the UCA-202 is a popular recommendation, and it's pretty cheap. If you're willing to spend a bit more money (or in the future) you can upgrade to the ODAC, which does measure better. I do not think you'd need a DAC that measures better than the ODAC, at least not with your current setup.
spend 10 more dollars
spdif out, headphone out, and rca out.
That DAC has a dual purpose out, you can either connect an analog 3,5mm jack to it, or a mini toslink (which has identical physical dimensions but an optical end).
I had never heard of that DAC but it should be ok as it does have an headphone amp.
Some alternatives could be the evergreen Behringer:
http://www.amazon.de/Behringer-U-Control-UCA202-Interface-Soundkarte/dp/B000KW2YEI/
or this:
http://www.amazon.de/HifiMAN-tragbarer-Kopfh%C3%B6rerverst%C3%A4rker-Soundkarte-premium/dp/B0066AHES4/
or this if you prefer a volume pot:
http://www.amazon.de/FiiO-E10K-OLYMPUS-WANDLER-schwarz/dp/B00LP3AMC2/
(all should ship to the NL)
If you want to get the most out of your new gear, you should buy a DAC. On-board sound cards are not high quality and you'll be better off getting your DAC chip out of the electrical shit storm going on inside your computer. You can spend anything from $30 or so up to the price of a new house on a DAC. The Behringer UCA202 is popular at the $30 range. If you want a nicer one, I'd recommend the Schiit Modi. And it goes up from there.
As for an amp, opinions vary. Most audiophiles will tell you an integrated amp is better than a receiver, and separates (a power amp and a preamp) are better, and dual mono all the way through is even better (separate amps for the left and right channels).
You could get a craigslist or eBay special and be perfectly fine. If you want a popular and solid integrated, the Emotiva Mini-X a100 is on sale for $170. Emotiva is the kind of the go-to for a lot of budget-minded audiophiles.
Lastly, while those speakers are going to sound very nice, "absolute best" is not only a relative term, it costs a lot more to achieve. Check out /r/zeos/ for a lot of good information.
You want a Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface. I purchased one specifically for use with these speakers. It's just a USB Digital Audio Converter (plug it in via USB, and it detects as a sound card, and has RCA outputs.) You could probably get away with using your onboard soundcard with a 1/8 jack to RCA as well, but, onboard soundcards are notoriously bad.
Also, get a good cable as well.
After getting a headset I moved onto a asus xonar essence stx so that I had something decent to power my headset and my Behringer UCA202 has been retired.
Right. If you're not American, tell me and I'll re-evaluate. So as for speakers I recommend the Klipsch RB-51 II's at $420. Pair this with a Yamaha A-S300 amplifier for $330, and the Klipsch RW12D subwoofer for $350 dollars. Lastly, you're going to want a DAC, which are much cheaper than soundcards. Take the Behringer UCA202 at $30 Very hefty prices, but for a subtotal of $1110, you'll have an absolutely amazing setup. If you're a bit taken aback by the price, I can cook up something cheaper with not much of an issue, so tell me what you think!
On-board audio interfaces suck on almost all computers.
I use the JustBoom DAC on the RPi 3B+ CD Player I built for my GF. It sounds great!
Another alternative is to use a USB audio interface like the Behringer UCA202. I had one laying around from when I used an old laptop as a media controller, and it works fine on my OSMC RPi.
This is better cheaper and uglier
https://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital-Output/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506007071&sr=1-1&keywords=behringer+dac
It seems unlikely that a wire degrades over time. If rebooting works, it's more likely related to the computer.
You could buy a cheap DAC, you could try the headphone jack at about 60% volume and see how that works.
To use that with a computer, you’ll need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI/
Here you go. Works like a charm and will eliminate any noise from interference in the case.
Behringer UCA202
No, that's just electrical interference from your computer being a computer. To fix it, you'd have to get a cheap DAC like the Behringer UCA202 or FiiO D3 , other than that, just deal with the static.
On what budget? Beringer UCA202 if you just want something cheap.
I use a USB DAC so that it appears as another audio source in the OS. This way I can use keyboard shortcuts to switch between headphones and speakers, rather than using a physical switch.
what is an interface? and do you have a suggestion for which one? noob here :)
Edit: would this one work?
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
I'm pretty sure you can get a crappy little USB device with a 1/8" mic input and use that. The sound isn't going to be great but it might hold you over in the meantime. Something like this or this (along with cable adapter(s)) i think would work.
Otherwise, I'd probably be spending all my time learning the blofeld and making patches for it. That synth is basically limitless with its possibilities. Try to make some patches that sound like the gear you want (e piano, etc.).
And get some VSTs! There are plenty of solid-sounding free ones - you can compose your ass off with just free software.
Behringer has a few cheap audio interfaces that will do it well for $30
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI
Generally you can get a better standalone turntable and an RCA to USB converter (I use this Behringer one) for the same price.
Get one of these, it is inexpensive. I use it with Audacity. My difference is that I record out of a home tape deck, not a box like yours. I think I can help you up to a point. The Behringer has a ton of reviews and very high ratings. I have the one in Red also, it came free with another device, a guitar effects pod.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI/
I've read your manual, although they combined it with ES23 model. Cycle through the Sound settings to EQ Off when dubbing. Turn off or Cancel the sound virtualizer effect. On this Panasonic you have an advantage in that you can control the volume digitally. Start at 6. Level 7 might be better. You will be able to figure out which is best, but adjust it depending on the volume of the entire tape when you move on to another tape. Simon and Garfunkel would be a different setting output SLIGHTLY than Metallica, etc.
On your computer, reboot. Don't have the jack plugged into the computer. Do have the playback Panasonic prepared. You want to test one song. You want to monitor at the end of the chain, so you want to use your computer speakers, or connect via bluetooth to speakers or headphones, somehow.
My laptops now only have one port for sound In and Out. When I plug into the jack it opens a box with a question of how I want to use it. I'll go see the options on mine after I post this, but you don't want Microphone in, you want recording in or something else if you have a choice. If the Audio Device selection doesn't pop up, google it, there is help "How to get a popup when device is plugged into audio jack" - Or if you know your computer pretty well, open the sound panel options for the input/output to see what options are there.
You want LINE IN.
>Here are the options in the sound panel on my Acer with one jack:
>The current connected device is:
>Which device did you plug in?
>Line In [this is the one you want to use]
>Mic In
>Headphone
>Speaker Out
>Headset
This is where the Behringer USB device will come in handy. Audacity will find it, and you can simply monitor via the interface or on your computer.
Audacity, if you are new to it, it defaults at fresh install to 48khz sampling rate in my experience. You want to set that to 44.1 khz, the CD Audio standard. You can google that. I personally record to WAV file on a clean partition, but recording to high rate MP3 or something else might be what you want to do.
Your cables need to be good, and you need to notice if there is dust affecting the signal in the headphone port or the port on your computer. When you are monitoring at the business end DURING A SILENT PAUSE MODE, you can rotate the plug that is in the jack, you will hear if there is a crappy connection. You can clean the mini headphone jack ports just google it.
I hope you have got a way to monitor what is coming in to your computer after you do all this, it is really the only way to go. Like I said, considering the disadvantage of recording from a boombox headphone output, your advantage is that digital level control on the output, so you might turn out a fairly good recording.
https://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital-Output/dp/B000KW2YEI
If you're going to get a cheap USB audio card, spring the extra few dollars and get one of these if you can. It'll be a lot higher quality.
I've recently gotten myself a fancy new setup to record. Along with using a Novation Twitch and an Akai MPK25 to control Serato DJ, I have a lighting rig, which I use while mixing to make it more dynamic. I use a chauvet Obey 40, with two Chauvet Mini Kintas and two generic LED spotlights, to create an atmosphere. AAANNDDDD along side that, my most recent addition is two video cameras on tripods to catch the whole mix from different angles, which I then take into Sony Vegas 13 to edit it all down and make it look cool. (Oh, and I've got my mix recorded in Serato while I play, which I sync up with the video via a few clap samples that I play from my speakers). Here's the final product ( don't mind my kinda boring mixing, I just wanted to test out my whole setup to see if it worked) http://youtu.be/MkKARNRvfU8
And to help you out with the recording situation, Behringer sells rather good quality input/output sound cards for about $30 (Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5zRVub1GCHXDR), and you just plug in the output from the mixer into it, and use audacity (or your favorite recording program) to record it all.
OK, so my recommendation:
Zoom G1on ($50): http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-G1on-Guitar-Effects-Pedal/dp/B00IOSJ68C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421777443&sr=8-1&keywords=zoom+g1on
This will give you SO much great stuff. Loads of amp+speaker simulators for recording direct (vox, fender, marshall etc.), as well as loads of distortion, chorus, reverb, echo synth, wah, filter etc. effects that can be linked together in a chain. I have a lot of experience with guitar effects, and this unit is by far the best way to spend your money.
You still need a better way to input from that pedal into your computer. If you want to be able to use stereo effects (recommended), meaning the reverbs will be wider and more spacious, then you will need to go for a 2-channel USB interface. Something like this might work for you:
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1421777678&sr=8-7&keywords=2+in+audio+interface
...however I have no experience with that so I can't vouch for it. You could try to find one a little pricier that might work better, I don't know. Look around for reviews etc., but if that works fine then you should have pretty much all you need to record a good quality sound in Audacity.
For drum sounds and others such as piano and strings, check out this software:
http://www.ikmultimedia.com/products/sampletank3free/
I use it myself. It should work as a plug-in with Audacity but I haven't tried that myself. Either way it's free and has some good sounds in it.
I think he just wants speakers for his computer and doesn't realize you can use bookshelf speakers to do so with an amp.
My current setup, and one I recommend to him, is as follows
Computer --usb--> Behringer UCA202 DAC --rca--> Lepai LP 2020A+ Amp --speaker wire--> Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers
That'll give him the dial he wants - on the amp - as well as amazing sound quality by bypassing the computer's built in DAC.
There are a few ways to do this, the simplest is with a bluetooth receiver and cellphone, I have this one and it sounds okay: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter/dp/B00IQBSW28
The best way to do this is with a USB DAC, this is the cheapest: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI and works pretty well. There are lots of different ones with different features, you can spend from 30 to 300 easily.
USB DACs will work with windows and android cellphones with OS 5 (lollipop) and higher. I'm not sure about mac or linux support. Something like this may be useful: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B005PWPUW6 if you just want to connect optical or coaxial out from a device.
I recommend the Behringer UCA202. It is a USB DAC with an Optical output. It also has a headphone jack and a ADC audio input.
You'll need an external (or internal) soundcard or DAC with digital optical toslink S/PDIF ports as there is no way to directly convert to this via most digital and analog connectors. This one is decent for the price:
https://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500070400&sr=1-8&keywords=external+sound+card
Hey! Hopefully I can give you some insight. I am not sure if you can use the USB out if the RX2 into a computer to get an audio signal (someone let me know if I'm wrong). Something you could do is purchase an audio interface. I use this one that is relatively inexpensive for my streaming purposes and it works great! I use it with a Mac and if I remember correctly, it was plug and play. The system would recognize the interface from the streaming software and you get a good quality feed from the mixer. It worked out for me and isn't too overly complicated. Hope you get everything worked out!
Behringer UCA202 is a decent budget DAC and should work perfectly for what you want.
I've got a nearly identical install to his, but mine is not a fixed install so I can take the tablet with me.
The DAC is pretty crucial, and compared to the rest of a car AV set-up, is pretty cheap. The Behringer UCA-202 is another great one for low cost.
Wow you are so helpful, thank you.
So I think I've found a way that will work that involves less pieces. I cross posted this question in r/iphone here. The comments led me to this potential set up:
From my XDJ-RX's dual 1/4 TRS output, I'm going to have this male TS to male RCA cable going into the RCA input ports on the Behringer UCA202 (or UCA222), and then I will have that plug into the Apple Camera Connection Kit via USB, and then that goes into my phone. And THAT should get me a stereo signal.
Does that sound right to you? I'm like 95% sure that plugging two TS plugs into two TRS jacks (on the XDJ-RX) will only reduce the connection to unbalanced, but keep it stereo.
But it's good to know that if this setup doesn't work, the one that you suggested will. Finally this is all starting to make sense!
You can get a Behringer UCA202 for $30 which will take care of it.
That's what I did, except I run it to a $30 USB soundcard. It took a lot of tweaking but I'm not even using a preamp and it doesn't sound bad at all. Spend more money if you can though.
the audio 2 DJ interface, what does it do?
I'm completely out of my range here. is it for splitting the audio output into 4 channels? if so, would this do?:http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-%0AInterface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1322396456&sr=1-1
Get a good cheap pair of bookshelf speakers (or smth more expensive) connect them to an amp and either use a splitter cable to plug it directly into mobo's integrated sound or use a usb dac (with rca cables). You will also have to spend some money on speaker wire to connect speakers to amp.
EDIT: another option is to skip amp part and get a pair of powered studio monitors.
iPad, 'camera connection kit' & behringer UCA202 works for me
> ... so what specs should I be looking for in that regard?
With your budget you could get something with an Intel i5 and a 1080p display.
If you can wait with your pruchase, then get a Acer Aspire V5 473P-5602, which has a 1080p IPS touchscreen. It's currently out of stock and I don't know when it's going to be back, so ...
If you don't mind something refurbished, then I would recommend the Asus Q501LA which has also an 1080p IPS display. But check the warranty and the return policy. Not everyone is okay with that.
If you want to buy now, a Lenovo Z40 wouldn't be a bad choice. It even has a dedicated GPU.
> Great audio: Yes
Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface. Get this. Laptops with a "decent soundcard" aren't a thing.
This is the way i've found out i could do this (at least on my computer). I can tell skype to go to whatever output you want, say the front headphone jack. Then have the game audio coming out of the speakers. Run both of those inputs to the mixer and you're done.
If you don't have an extra output, you could always get something like this, or maybe 2 if you want the 1/4 inch jacks to go into your mixer. Just set one as the skype out and the other as the system's main output
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/
Plugging the Line Level output of the mixer to the amplified microphone input of your laptop is probably resulting in excessive clipping - hence the distorted output.
An Audio Interface with at least one stereo input is probably what you are after. There are a number of options like the Scarlet FocusRite series are worth looking into.
Maybe even something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409908950&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+interface
Awesome thank you! I'm on a MAC so I think the audio interface would be better than software. What about these other ones from amazon? I'm a cheapskate what can I say. Would they be just as good, or would the one you recommended be better because it works with Traktor?
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-Premium-5-Input-Interface/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1409689712&sr=1-1&keywords=audio+interface
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1409689712&sr=1-2&keywords=audio+interface
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-XENYX502-5-Channel-Mixer/dp/B000J5UEGQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1409690145&sr=1-5&keywords=audio+interface
The LSR305's can be a bit tricky to get the best out of them. The ideal cheap way to connect them is to use a cheap DAC like this plugged into your USB on the PC, and then a cable like this going from the DAC to the speakers.
Otherwise, you can use a cable like this and go straight from your PC to the speakers. Just know that on-board audio from PC's tend to have noisy analog connections. If something is playing it probably wont be noticeable, but expect a little more hiss/noise this route. A little might be unavoidable, do to the high power built in amplifier.
Try not to let all this scare you off though, they really are a fantastic desktop setup.
Most will recommend against spending $500 on a DAC for $500 dollar speakers. That being said, you can get a great DAC like the $100 Schiit Modi 2 or the $150 JDS Labs ODAC.
You hit diminishing returns quickly with DACs though. Both of these will maybe sound around 5% better than the $30 UCA-202.
I definitely want my speakers to be running through a DAC if I have one, but thanks for the input. This was recommended by Zeos so I'm going to try it and see how it goes.
How do you find the Fiio E7? Is there any background noise/interference when using it with headphones?
You could try these...
Or if you want a DAC, consider these too...
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|Spain|amazon.es|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
|Italy|amazon.it|
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
can you use a USB soundcard as a preamp... Something like http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Alpha or http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI this got a pretty good review by NwAvGuy.
That Emotiva amp has been around for a few years in various trim. Sherbourn marketed it as a small integrated amp too. I've owned the Sherbourn and the A-100 and they are both good. The A-100 is great for headphones too.
As for the DAC, what is the source? CD or a PC? A decent CD should have a built in DAC, and for a PC Behringer makes a great sounding DAC for $30, model UCA202. DACs do not need to bust the bank account.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-UCA202-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=behringer+dac&qid=1566878565&s=gateway&sr=8-3
this is the cheapest usb dac that i would use. Or an fiio e3 if you have optical or coax output on your pc.
For about $80 i would get a fiio e10k
Despite the fact that both speakers seem to be a similar price, the Inclines will considerably cheaper and closer to your budget once you account for cables and a subwoofer (provided you actually need one).
Regardless of what you buy, I suggest first trying the speakers without a subwoofer to hear whether you actually miss the last bit of low frequency sound. Both of my suggestions produce fairly low bass, JBL 305 rated at 43 Hz +/- 3 db and who knows about the Inclines as Def Tech doesn't report frequency response using the standard +/- 3 db (most likely they reach somewhere in the 50s?).
For the 305s, you are less likely to need a sub. Also, connecting a sub to the monitors can be complicated and will depend upon your overall setup. A related issue is whether you will be using an external digital-to-analog converter (DAC) - I recommend you do so for the improved sound quality and that you get one with a volume control. I think the best value approach is buy a pro audio interface - these have a DAC, volume control, and the types of cable connections that would facilitate mating your monitors and sub, plus other features that are used by recording musicians. I have the Steinberg UR22 (paid about $115 shipped new off ebay) but you can do fine with cheaper options: Lexicon Alpha has been recommended https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-6&keywords=audio+interface or the Behringer UCA202 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-5&keywords=audio+interface
I went ahead and got the matching JBL LSR310S, but it is expensive ($400 usually but I got mine new on ebay for $279). It was worth it to me as I work from home and listen to some electronic music. Here are ebay listings now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=jbl+lsr310s&_sop=15 Monoprice has a studio sub at $220 that would work (http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&cp_id=11504&cs_id=1150401&p_id=605999&seq=1&format=2 For cable connections it will depend on what audio interface you get (suggest you buy cables from Monoprice for their support - don't bother with Guitar Center or similar places as their cable prices are very high), however, I think you need the following: for the Behringer you have to use unbalanced connections, qty 4 TRS male x RCA male cables, a) connect the interface to your computer with the supplied USB cable, b) then connect the interface input to the sub input using two (left & right) male TRS x RCA cables, and c) then two more male TRS x RCA (one each, L&R) from the sub output to the 305s input. For the Lexicon Alpha, you would connect in a similar manner but can use balanced connections, total of 4 male TRS x male TRS.
For the Inclines and in considering your initial budget goal, you could go with any of the budget subs. My son has the Dayton SUB-800 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627 ($99 - $5 Labor Day coupon + $6.95 shipping). I'd spend another $20 and get the Dayton SUB-1000 because it supposedly goes down to 30 Hz http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628 You would need a subwoofer cable for the connection, such as https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472740255&sr=8-3&keywords=subwoofer+cable
As I mentioned before, one the nice things about the Incline is that it has a built-in DAC; however, the "manual" isn't very helpful - this review does a good job of explaining the source input hierarchy and how to engage the DAC (there isn't an input selection switch so you have to unplug cables to make sure the DAC overrides your computer onboard sound card - in any case, use the USB input or optical for DAC): http://www.audioholics.com/computer-speaker-reviews/definitive-technology-incline-desktop-speakers-review
This might be helpful
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1404769184&sr=1-3&keywords=USB+to+RCA
I've heard of their 3020, but supposedly the Concept 20 is the same driver in a different cabinet? The What HiFi review makes it sound like the cabinet alone is worth the price difference. That could be true, but I am not going to rely on their word for it. I think it would be best if you could arrange for an audition or, better still, buy them with a good return policy so you can send them back if you are not satisfied with them. This is the most reliable way you could test out 2 speakers because you know best what is important for you. As for bass, it is also part of the music and I feel a faithful reproduction is essential to the experience. I do not own a subwoofer myself because I am satisfied with my MB Quart 490 and their 7.5" woofer. The bass is present but not overpowering at all and it makes all the difference when listening to Pink Floyd or The Coup.
Anyway, what I meant was the audio files will be converted from digital to analog at one point. In your case, it would be the PC's onboard solution. Now, depending on your PC, your onboard solution could be great or it could suck (distortion/constant hum etc.) ! To get around this some people use the digital output on their PC (USB/HDMI/Optical) and the conversion is performed using another device. Since usually stereo amplifiers do not have any way of accepting digital input, the go-to choice is a separate DAC like Fiio D03K / Behringer UCA202. Some people also a get a headphone DAC like Fiio E10K because they need a portable amp for their headphone in addition to a DAC. Others may need more than just a DAC - for example there could be a need to take the HDMI input and send the video to a TV and the audio to speakers. This is where a receiver comes in. A receiver is basically an amp + many more options for inputs, but it could be overkill if you only need a DAC. Used receivers could be cheap, though, and they are quite popular because of the input options you get. Goes without saying that you may not need a separate DAC at all, but just something to consider.
Phew! Hope that helps! :)
A simple audio interface: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI
with an RCA to mono 1/4" cable. The main output will be in the range you want. Configure as mono on the attached computer.
Don't use a headphone amplifier.
i use a behringer uca202. its a usb audio interface that you can usually find on used sites for like 25 $. you could use it as a headphone amp too and itd be better than yr computers soundcard..
https://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital-Output/dp/B000KW2YEI
A Digital to Analogue convertor, it turns the binary data stored on your PC into an analogue electrical signal, every digital device that can output audio has to have one.
The ones built into old motherboard tend to be atrocious with an awful SNR (signal to noise ratio).
Picking up an external DAC or headphone amplifier will fix your issue, as the noise is induced at this conversion stage.
This DAC is widely regarded as an amazing bargain, and it has a dedicated hardware control for your headphone volume, which is always really handy.
Click for Behringer UCA202
A review of the Behringer
Your average computer won't have a sp/dif or TOSlink connection built in. Not without a PCI card at least. What you want is something with a USB connection.
Based on the price of what you linked on Amazon I'm guessing you're not looking to spend a lot and want something bare-bones. This should do the trick:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_25?qid=1427582228&sr=1-25&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=2+channel+usb+interface
Although I'd recommend getting something with built in mic preamps like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BQ6KSN6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1427582455&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=usb+audio+interface&dpPl=1&dpID=41Eswt0wwaL&ref=plSrch#
EDIT I have not used either of these items and can't attest to their quality. I simply chose them as examples of something you could use in your situation.
And I guess I should buy this too?
you need an amplifier, and a cord to go from your headphone jack on your computer to the amplifier. You could look for old receivers on craigslist, or you could buy a new small amp if you don't want to hook anything else up to these speakers.
here's a relatively cheap amp that people seem to like. Here's another one that's a bit more powerful, and a bit more expensive.
if you want to get really fancy, you could also buy a DAC (like this one). it's a small device that plugs into a usb port on your computer, converts the digital audio into an analog signal, and then passes it on to the amp. Some people say you need one, some people say the one in your computer's sound card is good enough and they are overrated. I have no opinion either way.
The one you're using has a lot of good reviews, so I'm not sure that's your issue. But to answer your question, this is a good USB audio interface that fits your budget.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1451232680&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=External+sound+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=41IUcFvupvL&ref=plSrch
Wellp, I ended up figuring out the answer myself:
So if you want to go the input route to record in Audacity or other software, I recommend this.
An easier way would be to record directly in Serato DJ. Just export the audio to Audacity and edit later.
I have owned Logitechs before, and they aren't even worth the money to be honest. Here's what I would recommend based on a post by another member, and having a similar setup on my old computer:
DAC
Amp
Speakers (Purchase two sets of these, for the front and rear speakers)
Sub
How to wire it
Credit to Zeos for his thread here
Total price: $362.11 before shipping and before speaker wire.
I am not sure if you are able to use a 5.1 setup in this way. I believe there are only enough ports for a 2.1, but I can look into it for you.
Here's a less expensive DAC: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/
It's bulkier, though. And I have no idea if the phone would support it.
In a word: Yes. Better volume, better sound, better connection, low price.
I picked up this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A DAC/AMP is a very good purchase. Ever since I bought this budget DAC, the sound quality of my headphones went way up.
Honestly, there's your answer - maybe even using an extender if there's not enough room. This makes sense because the front audio ports go through a cable internally before going into your mobo - and there's just a lot of interference inside any case. I have always experienced front audio issues - I can't even stand using headphones from there.
One idea: if you have $30 this cheap USB audio interface might work for you (if it works with your mic) (idk what the model differences are here) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0023BYDHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1419455961&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40# or http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1419455961&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70#
Edit: you'll need an adapter, like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I97G0U/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1419456342&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Could I add another line-in to my computer with https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00LBK3870/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and use that with my monitor headphone out? I think the USB 7.1 sound card I had was too cheap and maybe that caused a lot of the extra noise...
Here's the diagram I made up when I was doing the wiring
http://i.imgur.com/iTDrNh5.png
It wasn't too hard. I basically bought the plug for my car's existing wiring harness and wired the amp to that, used RCA cables to hook the amp (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B43LKV0) up to the DAC (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI)
On the other side, I got this cable: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MAJTTYC and cut off the male USB end, which I wired to a step-down (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWLP88A) on one side and the 12v switched power on the other side. Then I just plugged in the tablet to the micro USB and the DAC to the female USB.
I don't have any pictures of the piece of wood method, but basically, once I pulled out my old headunit, there was a hole in the dash. I stuck the amp and DAC into the hole and cut a piece of wood big enough to cover the hole with a hole through it for the power wire to pass through for the tablet. The tablet itself is sandwiched between that piece of wood and the plastic bevel of the dash with a bit of foam padding.
I'm not a hardware hacker, and had never done any car audio, and I had no problems figuring it out. (though I did kill my battery a couple tiems because I had the amp hooked up to the regular 12V line instead of the switched line, so it stayed on and drained the battery till I got that sorted)
I didn't bother with FM radio since I never listened to it anyway. I can't say I regret it, though I do wish that somewhere in there, I had an aux line so I could hook up a phone easily, but that's only so my wife could play stuff off of her iPhone.
Night driving is fine, but that might depend on your car. I just use the auto brightness, and I have a solid black background for the tablet, so if it's too bright, I can just minimize the app, though I don't usually have to do that. During the day, it's bright enough to see fine, but that may depend on your car layout.. in mine, there's no glare because the screen is vertical in the center of the dash.
Finally, I also have a blutooth OBD2 reader (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ) hooked up which displays some gauges for stuff like MAF, RPMs, Gas usage, etc.
I believe you need an external sound card or audio interface, there are lots of choices on amazon, here is one
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1496506004&sr=8-25&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=audio+interface&dpPl=1&dpID=41IUcFvupvL&ref=plSrch
If you talk about sampling from the phone to the PO I think the PO itself makes the samples much worse, than your phone. If you talk about samples aleady made by PO and want to send them to the phone, all microphone jacks will ruin your record. Behringer UCA202 is a cheap audio interface and should do the trick with most devices (you will need an adapter). I tried it with IPAD and it works. Most probably will work with android too with OTG cable.
I use one of these. Works great! One tip I would give is to check your audio levels by looking at the meter in an audio recording app (like AudioShare) first before recording your video.
Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface
Behringer DAC
Is the game sound itself stuttering, or is it like an added sound to the game sound? The cards could be emitting noise that your onboard sound is picking up. Since it only comes up on games, thats why you wouldnt hear it at other times
Edit: I just looked at your posted thread, try getting a cheap usb DAC, and plugging your stuff into that, and see if you are still getting stuttering.
Double edit: something like this is a good choice, according to the budget audio god, /u/zeospantera.
Behringer UCA202
Just wondering if anyone can approve(or improve) the following list for my PC set up before i place the order. My budget is $200 for a 2.0 system. I will be purchasing a sub in the future to upgrade to 2.1.
Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface, $29
Speakers: Micca MB42X, $80
Amp: MUSE M50 EX, $68
Wiring: AmazonBasics 16-gauge Speaker Wire, $7
Total: $184.00 USD
Got some RCA wires that I will be using.
Please let me know your feedback or if there are cheaper options I can go with.
Thank you in advance
Yes. You can buy an external USB audio card. Like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI I have one of them. It's a nice little unit. Then you can download ASIO4ALL and activate the external soundcard and your computer's normal speaker output simultaneously.
If you get shitty ground noise when recording from your computer, pick one of these up to fix it (note they're RCA-in):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I needed an inexpensive DAC solution for my laptop as it was having problems driving my HM5s. I picked up a Behringer UCA202 and it has worked very well. I've used in on both my work and gaming laptops and it really brings my HM5s to life. The unit is rather large compared to others, has features I don't need, and has a long nin-detachable USB cable but for $30 I cannot complain.
This is a simple solution https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465276940&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=behringer&dpPl=1&dpID=41IUcFvupvL&ref=plSrch, or you could get a different DAC all together, I had the smsl and it's a good beginner DAC. I have the Micca origen now and it works beautifully, and powers my shp-9500 headphones perfectly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BVSRD2I
I had issues with hissing and ground loops. This solved it: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1367506708&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+dac
I feel that you are seriously underrating modern integrated audio, and overrating soundcards. In many cases, integrated actually boasts better specs than add-in boards in areas like output impedance. Unless your integrated audio is incapable of sufficiently powering your cans, it's unlikely that a soundcard will be a marked improvement.
The [Behringer UCA202] (http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI)/[222] (http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1427766273&sr=1-1&keywords=uca222) is a [moderately competent DAC] (http://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/10/uca202-dac-take-2.html), though with a 50Ω output impedance and a mediocre integrated amp, you need a dedicated amp to pair with it. However, OP has Sennheiser HD201s. He will not see major returns from a new audio chain unless he seriously upgrades his headphones first.
Edit: Additionally, don't buy into "golden ears" concepts too much. Analytic listening takes some time to perfect, but most of the things that "only audiophiles can hear" exist only in the minds of the so-called golden-eared people proclaiming their abilities. See: audible returns from $1000 DACs and amps.
I think you still need a guitar to computer interface. Just plugging in without one usually does not work. Something like this.
https://smile.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525988020&sr=8-1&keywords=guitar+to+pc+interface
So I don't really know too much about setting up a system. Right now, I'm mainly planning on using it for music and some gaming/tv from my pc. Have a small room and not a big budget (college student), so following the recommended speakers above I'm planning on getting the Micca MB42X speakers (https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2).
Following this 2.1 setup (http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png), it looks like I'm gonna get this DAC (https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI).
The recommended amp from above, the SMSL SA 60W, is unavailable from most places. Out of these two options which one is the best for their value?
Pyle (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036VO6G4/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza)
Dayton (https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1322387040&sr=1-17)
Feel free to recommend me any other amp you think would work for ~$75 or less, it just has to have a 3.5mm input as well as an RCA input. Thanks for the help in advance friends, means a lot.
I was told to repost this here.
EDIT (due to response on initial thread): Also, I'm not looking to upgrade speakers and/or amp. Just wondering if the audio interface I'm looking at will serve as a DAC and a mic receiver.
From what I understand this setup will work for what I need. But, I have a limited knowledge of all this. Hopefully someone here can confirm this for me.
Source: PC via USB
Current setup:
What I would like to do is add the Behringer UM2 as a replacement for the UCA202. I'll be using the UM2 for mic input, can I output audio as well? Or do the RCA outputs output only what's being received from the mic? I read through the description, but it doesn't seem to mention anything about DAC capabilities, and I've no idea what 2x2 usb means.
Also, I hope this doesn't come across as me being lazy (like my last post did), cause I will be continuing to research while I wait for a possible response.
Thanks!
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=pd_sim_e_83?ie=UTF8&refRID=14THNW8VQ84FPN84VQ4F
Headphones:
http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-770-PRO-250-ohms/dp/B0006NL5SM
Amp:
http://www.amazon.com/Schiit-SCH-0702-Magni-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00SCBKPW2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1427404413&sr=1-1&keywords=magni
DAC:
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1427404464&sr=1-1&keywords=uca202
Hey Zeo, could you go over my first set-up and see if everything would work together? Here's what I got so far:
Behringer UAC202 DAC
Sherwood RX-4109 105 Watt Stereo Receiver - Any opinion on this? It seems really good for the price but seems like a gamble from what I read.
Pioneer BS22 - I've heard the BS22s are very power hungry which is why I decided the above receiver would be a good match for it.
From my understanding it would go something like this:
Laptop <--DAC <--RCA--> Sherwood Receiver --> BS22
Is that correct? And would I benefit significantly from purchasing a subwoofer?
Get an external USB DAC instead. Some options:
I'm probably able to spend a couple $100 on the whole set up - I am running on a fairly tight budget. I've been doing a bit of research and found a Behringer USB to optical, but it is cheap and I'm unsure of the quality. I know a DAC converts digital to analog, but that's the extent of my knowledge. Would you give me a brief heads up and maybe some good brands?
I'v heard those monoprice active speakers are the best value at that price point.
For a DAC, I have the schiit audio modi. I think it is amazing, and is built buy a very serious company. However, at $100, it might be a bit too expensive considering the price of your other components.
If that is the case, then something like
http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1380723420&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=DAC
or http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1380723420&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=DAC
might be reasonably as good as the modi at a much more reasonable price.
What are your current headphones?
Consider saving up for a separate $100 headphone amp and $100 DAC for when you buy the Sennheiser HD 6XX or similar.
Use this until then, Behringer U-Control UCA202 $29, with your current headphones.
For your Astros, you could use a $30 Behringer interface for an optical out.
Your idea about getting a usb to optical is excellent, I had never realized that was an option. A few questions:
It would work better than what you recommended
The Audioengine A2 are fantastic at the price point. Combine with an inexpensive DAC (like the Behringer UCA202) for even better results.
Cheapest I can recommend is the Behringer UCA202.
Something like this which was recommended in another thread?
Stereo, however I would recommend investing in a better soundcard or an external DAC.
Something like this is cheap, portable and will provide a massive improvement over an onboard soundcard.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
although i must say i had the same issue even with this interface then I talked to some fellow djs/producers and just started going in through the 2 mic inputs on my focusrite interface using a rca to dual quarter inch cable now my mixes are crystal clear
could i use this?
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=pd_cp_MI_0
I actually came to this thread thinking I'd be recommending REAPER with the ASIO4All drivers as that's what I've used on Windows for years now. To see this is what you're using already is confusing. What interface are you using? How do you have the ASIO buffer set?
I have a U-Connect that my monitors are plugged into and I had a Scarlett Solo as an input which worked fine. The Solo just got upgraded to a Scarlett 6i6 though and I will be switching to Scarlett's drivers as, with the 6i6, you have to.
Edit: Clarity.
When I go into my device manager I see the "realtek high definition audio" but I don't see anything that I could activate or anything other than the Update / Disable / Uninstall / Scan for hardware change / Properties. ( cf http://imgur.com/ptdRVGu )
My mobo is a Gigabyte GA-P35C-DS3R rev2, it is quite old but seems to be working just fine so far.
But do you think it could work if I bought a coaxial cable? Or do I need to buy something like that https://www.amazon.fr/Behringer-Ucontrol-UCA202-Interface-minimale/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 or if you know a cheaper alternative it would be nice !
Hey (I am in canada),
I recently purchased the Kanto Yumi powered (for $270 CAD), I also have a set of Sennheiser HD 598 se.
I can hear some buzzing noise when using my speakers and headphones from my MSI z97 Gaming 5 motherboard.
Since my motherboard has no optical output, I think that my only option is a USB dac. Would the Behringer UCA202 be my best option?
Is there any other affordable USB DAC? (I would love one that allows to switch output)
Cheers,
Sal
The highly regarded UCA202 might work for you. It has RCA outs and is most likely a better DAC than your sound card.
They're running on a Behringer DAC along with a Dayton dta-100a. I got them based on the suggestions by /r/zeos as recommended by /r/audiophile. I the 2.0 system off /r/zeos because it's about the perfect setup for student housing, and the amp also works for headphones. There are better headphone amps out there, but it definitely gets the job done at a pretty damn good price.
Would something like this do the job well enough on my budget? Or would this be worth it?
I bought the HD 598's on Black Friday.
---
Headphones
Amp
DAC
Can I use my headphones with my amp and DAC? I was looking at the back of the amp and I noticed it only has output for normal speaker wire or banana plugs, which i don't think I can use with the headphones.
On the Amazon page the headphones say they come with a 3.5mm adaptor. Doing so would enable me to just plug right into my laptop, but this wouldn't power the headphones nearly enough, would it?
If not I can buy a new amp, I just want to avoid buying something I don't need.
Would this headphone amp/DAC work for me?
is it this one by any chance? http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
Thanks. I was wondering about this Behringer USB/Audio Interface, but I don't think that uses the TRS connectors you mention. So are you saying I should be using the balanced outputs on my mixer? By the look of it they are 2 x 1/4" jacks; I wouldn't really know as I have never used them for anything. That would actually be kind of handy as the 2 x RCA phono 'record' outputs are currently in use by my BPM counter.
Have some random stuff for sale.
the emotiva a-100 only have rca inputs so you'll need either a 3,5 to rca cable to connect it directly to your pc or you can use an usb dac like the behringer UCA202 and use it's rca outputs to connect the emotiva amp
Are you firm at $60? I would wait just a few weeks when you can afford something just a bit more.
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My minimum requirement for Good sound would be: This Behringer DAC - $30 + This Lepy Amp - $33 + These Micca Speakers - $58 for a total around $120. And everything will be upgradable as you want, if you wanted to add a Schiit Stack with a good pair of headphones later. My headphone recommendation for under $50 is the Sennheiser HD 518's when they occassionally go on sale for less than $50, I paid $46 for mine new.
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No magic needed, just a USB hub (powered) and an audio interface that is class compliant / doesn't need drivers. I have used this cheap device during my live set to send audio out to the mixer via USB.
You're sure the laptop doesn't have embedded optical out on the headphone port? most don't, but some do.
Anyway, If you don't mind using the built in DAC you can get a cheap usb dac with optical out and use it.
something like that
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
Or get the old hifimediy 9023 for cheaper, for the current price of the uca202, the 9023 can also do optical out and support 96khz/24bit vs the 44/16 on the uca202, and the dac shouldn't be bad either.
http://hifimediy.com/DACs/sabre-dac-uae23
I have never not noticed the difference between the on-board audio jack of a computer and my Behringer UCS202. I don't own a better DAC than that presently, but I highly recommend it as a starting point.
Personally I am contemplating purchasing a miniDSP 2x4 HD as an upgrade but with the mic for room correction that's 10X the cost of the 202.
And the 202 it less than most bar tabs I've ever paid, so it shouldn't weight too heavily on your mind if your motherboard performs about as well.
Well you need an amp first of all. Some home theater receivers will have bluetooth but they aren't exactly audiophile.
I would look at used integrated amps, a usb dac, and something like this if you really want to stream via bluetooth.
Looks like the TT has a built in phono preamp so you won't need one of those and yeah integrated amps have lots of inputs so get some rca cables, or rca to 3.5mm, and you're golden!
I can't really afford that right now, would this instead? Its quit a bit cheaper.
okay awesome, so is there much difference in sound quality depending on how its connected to the pc? someone on the forum recommended using one of these and buying a couple of these to wire it all up, is this any better then using the cable you linked previously? i'll check out /r/headphones instead, thanks dude.
I would look at getting a better DAC, the DAC on a motherboard is usually one of the cheaper parts.The Behringer UCA202 is better than most motherboad DACs, and even sound cards. The Schiit Modi is really popular over at /r/headphones, and I also know that FiiO makes some quality DACs. Also, the aux cables don't really matter at this price point.
Not really. Just get a USB DAC and you'll be fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491457871&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=behringer+dac
Okay so I think I found something: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-UCA202-U-Control-low-latency-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492118729&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=low-latency but how can I know how low it really is? When they say ultra low, that sounds pretty low to me..... Any educated guestimations of what kind of low delays are possible with this compared to what you get with a generic ASIO driver like ASIO4all or FL Studio asio?
Thought. I found this small interface with an optical toslink out. Could I send 8 tracks via toslink out of this thing into my motu 2408??
https://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital-Output/dp/B000KW2YEI
Another option
I use a Behringer UCA202 USB interface to record audio
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-UCA202-U-Control-low-latency-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536352723&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface+for+mac
This combo has been very nice for me. Input for my PS4, Alexa, PC (through usb), and phone audio.
Here’s a diagram I made on my phone. Running audio for an event at the moment.
https://i.imgur.com/Z6zhI4P.jpg
Plug the usb card into your PC. plug the items into the mixer. Plug the Audio output from the mixer into the IN channel on the usb audio card. Flip on the “Monitor audio” switch. Plug your headphones into the convenient jack on the USB audio card.
ALTERNATIVE:
only buy the usb audio card. You don’t need a mixer. Get a 3.5mm stereo to RCA stereo (headphone jack to red white cable). Plug this into the in slots on the usb audio card. Plug the card into PC. Plug headphones into jack on the card. It has a volume knob on headphones that will let you control it.
I would heavily recommend the usb audio card I linked. If you want more versatility, grab a mixer too. Message me if you do grab anything and need help setting it up.
BEHRINGER XENYX 502 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J5UEGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YzONBbJV9RHD7
BEHRINGER U-Control Uca202 Ultra Low-Latency 2 In/2 Out Usb/Audio Interface With Digital Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TAONBb1FJ01ZQ
If you are using Traktor (I'm guessing here) then you can buy a Native Instruments Audio 2 and configure Traktor to use 2 soundcards. Since the K2 is a 4-channel soundcard as well as a midi controller you will then have 4 stereo outputs you can route through the Xone 42. (You could also buy 2 Behringer USB interfaces and use the K2 to spend a little less money and have the ability to record back into Traktor. I've never tried 3 using 3 soundcards, but I assume it's possible via the method above)
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Alternately you can look for a used Audio 8 or 10 which eliminates the need to aggregate soundcards.
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yeah you might want to look in to grabbing a cheap usb interface and use your cdjs then :) something like this would help
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI
EDIT: i originally had the traktor audio 2 on here but that one might not let you go in from the mixer to record on the PC. i am not sure it's been a while since i used one...
They might. As promised, I found a promising link--in the case you do need some kind of dongle. I haven't used this one, but it does appear to support stereo input. Most of the smaller audio-input dongles only have mic inputs, not proper line-in's, and the input is mono-only. Obviously, that'd weaken the Switch's audio experience. This one clearly has left/right audio input, and claims to have virtually no latency:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-UCA202-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1551116306&sr=8-17&keywords=usb+line+in+audio+adapter
It's $30 instead of $7, but it's got a lot favorable reviews and definitely does stereo input. That said, I was only looking on amazon. There might be something better on a more narrowly focused website.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459292053&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=behringer+audio+interface
I used that one for my first entry level audio interface. It did me well.
I just used my old Behringer UCA202 (http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI), which is hidden behind my desk, for the SMSL.
Ok, this is easy. You have a remote to choose which input to play music from.
Plug your turntable (phono preamp output) into the RCA input.
Plug a 3.5mm aux cable from your computer into the 3.5mm input if you want to have your computer do the digital-analog conversion. If you want your speakers to do that, you need something that will allow you to go from USB to TOSLINK optical, like this (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_3)
Speakers, AMP, DAC -> perfect start for about $500. This setup will obliterate anything at its price range
Behringer UCA202: https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541475191&sr=8-3&keywords=behringer+usb+soundcard
It's nothing special, but it's a cheap and easy 2 in/2 out RCA interface. I've had one floating around for various little tasks for like six years, it's been super reliable and it's literally $30.
i've used this with success. i originally bought it so i could bypass the on-board sound card when using speakers/headphones because the on-board sound was causing a constant hissing noise.
there is also a slider in audacity where you can adjust its input volume. (there are two, one for output volume and one for input volume). they are at the top right of this UI image. maybe raising the input volume could solve your problem (if it's not already turned up).
I recommend the behringer uca202 (the uca222 is the same in red) if you only want to use it for simple monitoring/recording/listen with headphones. the sound quality you get good and you don't get anything better for this price.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI
you can use this cable for stereo input https://www.amazon.com/Generic-F8V235-12-3-5mm-cable-12-Feet/dp/B000067RBT
I use a Behringer UCA202 (£24 with Amazon Prime) USB sound interface. It's pretty small, doesn't need external power either and sounds great.
Sweet thanks for the info, would this http://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital-Output/dp/B000KW2YEI work fine with the M40x's or should I get something a tad better. I don't want to spend too much on this but I also want the best sounding audio I can get with the M40x's and if I have to spend another 20$ more than that I would.
Receiver
DAC
Both for $100.
So a USB mixer won't show up in my playback devices with track 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8? My mbox currently shows up like this under the recording devices. Wondering if this can be accomplished with a single mixer for outputs.
Could totally pick up 2x USB audio cards like this Behringer U-Control and have my main PC audio go to #1 and skype go to #2 and have those both go to channels 3/4 and 5/6 on the mixer for separate audio controls.
Thoughts?
I am using Wear Audio Recorder, and it does record from the mic, both from my USB-C Pixel Buds, and the Google USB-C adapter w/ Sony STH40D (had to raise the gain to "X7" with the latter). This was on a Pixel 2 XL on Android 10. It's weird that most other apps don't though, that seems like a basic function of an audio recorder.
Are you sure you got the correct cable? In order to do that properly you need more than just one cable, usually some kind of mixer, cause while splitting 1 channel into 2 outputs (L/R) is trivial, joining 2 into 1 is not and shouldn't be done without a proper mixer adapter cause you could damage the output. You can just choose one of the output channels and route it to the mic input pins in the TRRS, but that would require a special cable that you might have to build yourself, not sure if you can just find it in a store. Another thing is that you may have impedance issues which may affect the level of the sound, or even make the phone not detect its presence, which may or may not be what you're experiencing.
Although I haven't tried it myself, if you have good return policies in your country, you can try an inexpensive USB interface (and connect it to your phone with the included A-to-C adapter) and it should work even better, and would be the proper way to do it.
Edit: Just tried with a USB interface, and it does just work, can even record in stereo if you want.
This woud be a pretty nice setup for $360:
The Behringer U-Control is a good DAC that you can connect your active 2.1 loudspeakers to. It has a headphone output that is powerful enough medium impedance headphones like the ATH-M20x. The majority of the budget goes where it matters most (the speakers) and you don't pay a lot of money on features you don't need.
Can you recommend one?...
This perhaps: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-UCA202-U-Control-low-latency-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=BEHRINGER+U-PHONO+UFO202&qid=1569665453&sr=8-2
and this cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Twin-Phono-6-35mm-Jacks-Cable/dp/B005JKYI86/ref=pd_bxgy_267_2/261-5725067-7204553?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005JKYI86&pd_rd_r=3318012e-4282-4abb-b756-d3b5f792d5b2&pd_rd_w=0P2fj&pd_rd_wg=bygtC&pf_rd_p=07e3e597-b71b-4701-a3fd-d79c50f48406&pf_rd_r=AY5DQ75E4DCVJT8JNDHG&psc=1&refRID=AY5DQ75E4DCVJT8JNDHG
Thanks!
I'm looking for an external USB audio solution to replace onboard soundcard but am confused as to what to get that will work well with my headphones. I have already tried a cheap USB external sound card from amazon but the sound quality was poor. Would something like this work? Or this?
Any advice would be appreciated.
(I have these [headphones] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06WLGRYSF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) )
I would look for USB to toslink and just get the $4 adapter that converts to USB-C. You might be looking for a while if you want native USB-C. (and it doesn't matter for this purpose)
examples:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI
and adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Adapter-Hi-speed-Black/dp/B01EL4PVFE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523988357&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=usb-a+to+usb-c
That will all work w/o drivers on the newer macs.
reference
Se il tuo laptop ha un solo minijack che comprende sia cuffie che microfono allora si tratta di un connettore TRRS (minijack 4 pin, come quello degli smartphone). In questo caso puoi registrare solo mono, cioè un singolo canale, quindi dovresti procurarti un adattatore tipo questo e connettere l'uscita L/R della tastiera alla femmina di ingresso (in questo caso col simbolo del microfono) dell'adattatore linkato sopra.
Se invece il tuo computer ha due minijack separati per cuffie e microfono allora basta procurarti un cavo "a Y" con da una parte 2 jack TRS e dall'altra un minijack, tipo questo e connetterlo all'uscita della tastiera e all'ingresso mic del computer.
In ognuno dei due casi stai comunque facendo una cosa teoricamente scorretta, le tastiere come la tua escono con un segnale di linea (cioè un segnale già amplificato che non richiede ulteriore guadagno) mentre gli ingressi del pc si aspettano un livello microfonico (cioè un segnale che richiede amplificazione). Inserendo un segnale di linea in un ingresso mic avrai probabilmente problemi, il segnale in ingresso risulterà distorto. Inoltre gli ingressi mic dei pc sono merda vera, sono pensati per gli auricolari per skype, non per la musica.
Vuoi quindi il mio consiglio vero? Procurati una scheda audio esterna usb. Ne esistono per tutte le tasche e anche qualcosa di veramente cheap tipo questa oppure questa sono comunque meglio di qualsiasi ingresso audio integrato nel pc.
Get a Behringer UCA202. USB sound card, ~$30 on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/
Review and measurements here: http://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/02/behringer-uca202-review.html
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406509100&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=behringer+dac
Well, everything arrived. The UMIK-1 is a nice piece of hardware. To complete my desktop setup I also got:
Now for the best part. I scratched some extra cash this month out of my budget and also ordered (they are yet to arrive):
I'm thinking that the next step would be to move to the O2+ODAC. I'd like to build them myself, so I'll probably order one O2 kit first and later either the ODAC PCB with the DAC already soldered, or the entire soldered ODAC PCB.
Also for the future is upgrading my closed back headphones I use at work, probably to an NVX XPT100 (thanks /u/ZeosPantera for leading me to them). Then I'll move the Monoprice Amp/DAC to the office to drive them and keep the O2+ODAC at home. The current headphones I have at the office sound pretty decent but I can't wear them for more than an hour. So comfort is paramount for my office headphones.
What do you think?
Can you point me to good resources on how to use REW + the UMIK-1 to measure the speaker responses? I still have the BS-21s (they'll be shipping back to Amazon soon) so I'm planning to measure them too. I didn't remove the grilles from them because I think it will be hard to stick them back on and don't want to return them without them on. So far I've read these articles:
Will that be enough?
Budget - ~$100-150, USA
Source - Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (1, 2)
Isolation - I want dat soundstage. Open
Preferred Type of Headphone - Over ear
Preferred tonal balance - Neutral, bass is cool though
Past headphones - m50s, they're great but have a narrow soundstage
Music - A little bit of everything (drum and bass, rock, metal, trap, electronica, EDM, house) and games
I've been looking at the 558s and they seem like the fit for me. Any advice?
Also, looking for a <$15 microphone for gaming with friends. Suggestions?
It's a $30 DAC/headphone amp.
uca202
it could , but for these headset i would recommend to buy a cheap DAC like this one for better sound quality
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
What I'm confused about is if the receiver has a built-in dac or not, and if that works when its being fed through RCA. RCA sends analog signal doesn't it? So wouldn't it be digital(computer) out analog(RCA) then digital again (receiver) and playing through my speakers(in analog), is that how this works? I can't find any $10 minidisc players, but I there is a behringer DAC for $30
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
An audio interface would be to have a better soundcard than there is on your laptop. Unless your laptop has a fancy isolated soundcard, even something like the $30Behringer UCA202 would help. The main issue with an onboard soundcard will be noise, and in my experience with cheap external soundcards, you get a little bit better instrument separation and cleaner sound. I have a Fiio E07 and Fiio E10.
Your audio codec is probably dying. You could get a cheap USB DAC like this: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI. I just saw your edit, that's pretty weird. It might be time to reinstall Windows.
You can do this a couple of ways. I used to get like a YouTube clip and convert it to an mp3 through any YouTube to mp3 converter websites. From there, just import the audio file to you DAW of choice and chop it up there. Recently, I've been finding a lot of video samples from Netflix or some other streaming site, so I use an audio interface like similar to this one here, record that to Audacity, and chop it there.
If you're using a USB mic, a soundcard is kinda pointless, as your mic is going to bypass it and, unless you're hearing hiss/distortion, onboard sound is going to be fine for casual listening/basic editing.
If your onboard audio out sucks, something like a Behringer UCA-202 should do the trick.
If you don't mind going used, something like an M-Audio Fast Track or PreSonus AudioBox USB would give you more options down the road.
Some great USB DAC's (some with integrated headphone amps) to consider, from lowest price to highest:
Audio Technica A900x could be another option.
But yeah, Beyer DT770/880/990 are pretty much the poster children for V-shaped sound. You could look into the differences between the Beyer models, because there's about a dozen variations.
Behringer UCA202 is a $20 DAC. It's actually a DAC+solid state amp combo, but you can bypass the amp, it can output unamped toslink and 2xRCA.
FiiO D3 (aka "Taishan-D03K") is another cheap ($20) standalone DAC, but it takes coax or toslink as input, not USB (which is only for power), so check if your PC has compatible digital outputs.
Depending on how much money you have to spend, you might want to consider this product - $29 -
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-UCA202-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/
PC and Mac compatible, both RCA IN and RCA OUT, USB does not require external power.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFNGsUQ0OPY
I made a little research, Now I'm thinking of this set-up (including cables):
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/190773969906
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008L4697K (Two of these)
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HDONV2
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI
Total of $204.60, Is this a good buy?
You could always go with something cheap like the Behringer UCA202 with a line output to start off with: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/
Consider a USB sound card.
Another one
Check what kind of outputs your record player has, you might need something like this and some RCA cables which is what I have to use http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
But definitely start recording into your computer if you're getting into this, gives you way more control and you can monitor the recording in real time and not have to check it all later.
It roughly means it doesn't have a true audio output but pretends to.
Try fixing the video out first. If the analog audio quality is good then use it.
If it isn't get a cheap USB sound card with this list but I think most cheap ones will work anyway. It will suffice. Some people also use this more expensive one if I remember correctly but I don't think you'll notice a difference as long as you don't use a high quality sound setup.
I don't think you'll be able to have video via composite and audio via HDMI at the same time.
Best bang for your buck will be an integrated amp. Something like the budget stereo amp Onkyo A-9010 http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9010-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B00SY20TE8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463557044&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=onkyo+9010 If you want to include the surround speakers you will be compromising on the quality of your stereo system but something like this would work: http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V379BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00V5VJ3TM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463556947&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=RX-V379
Seeing as you play a lot of music from your computer it might be worth looking into getting a DAC although the onkyo amp mentioned above already comes with a built it DAC it only has optical or coaxial inputs. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463557388&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=uca202
edit: I didn't check your speakers, it is possible they need more power to run than the above mentioned amps.
Most of the basic USB audio cards are driverless.
Try this one for a higher end DAC http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463426650&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb+audio
Or this one for basic http://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463426650&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+audio
Would this be what I'm looking for? Or would it be something else?
EDIT: Would this work too? Or this Turtle Beach one? Or this StarTec one? Or this Behringer UCA202?
Since I want to use headphones and speakers how does this DAC look?
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370151532&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=behringer
Behringer UCA202
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI
You just need a RCA to 3.5mm adapter for mic in. Clean DAC, low powered amp stage - I'm not certain about how hard superlux is to drive. The behringer drove my IEMS well but had bass distortion on my planar and high impedance headphones.
I have one of [these.](http://www.BEHRINGER.com/ U-CONTROL UCA202 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3GqbAbB42Z0KZ). It's cheap, and you can put it next to your keyboard or somewhere else on your desk. As simple as plugging in your headphones or the 3.5mm for your speakers.
Alternatively you can buy ones that have switches instead and use that.
lot of good advice here already but i'll try and toss out some personal experience:
Thank you for the feedback! The Behringer U-Control that I have is the silver colored one, like this one...https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512068272&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=behringer+u-control
My keyboard is connected to a Xenyx mixer, the mixer is connected to the macbook via the U-Control. I suppose I have to add the U-Control to my Cubase Input through Device Set up first? I don't have any MIDI connection, I believe this is purely digital connection, no MIDI connections.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
This audio interface is the cheapest solution. You can also check out Schiit's stuff, or JDS labs. But those are probably overkill for your headphones.
For a pure USB DAC (No Amp) it is incredibly hard to beat the Behringer UCA202 on a budget.
$29 and it will blow away the competition within the $100 range out of the water.
Incredibly in depth reviews and analysis found here:
http://nwavguy.blogspot.ca/2011/02/behringer-uca202-review.html
Purchase USA: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=Behringer%20UCA202&amp;qid=1465492082&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;sr=1-1
Purchase Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital-Output/dp/B000KW2YEI
Just a heads up, you can make a hyperlink on Reddit by placeing the text you want to be the line in brackets like so, [here] and the link right after it surrounded by parenthesis like this (linkgoeshere), so you get here and it shows up like this here
It seems that you just want to sample certain sounds. You can do this the old fashioned way, wiring the iPad to the Mac through an audio interface. Best and cheapest option would be buying two Behringer UCA 202 class compliant interfaces (around 30$ each), plug one into the iPad through the camera connection kit, and the other one into the USB of your Mac, and wire both interfaces up with cinch cables. On the software side an app like Audacity is enough to capture the sounds.
2 x https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
You can get away with 1 interface if you use the headphone out of your iPad and wire it to the interface on the Mac side with a 3,5mm jack to cinch cable. But quality could suffer a bit.
So my old setup was the Behringer UCA202 > Dayton Audio DTA-100a > Dayton B652 / Beyerdynamic DT 990 250OHM
While I know this setup isn't the most ideal setup I was looking for an all in one solution for my speaker / headphone amp needs. However while I liked the Dayton DT100a amp, it was causing a humming/buzzing even at fairly low volumes (I think this was fixed in the new DTA120 version).
After some research, and even asking a few questions to /u/zeospantera I discovered that there are very few alternatives to the DTA (at that form factor). So before I invested in another amp I decided to go the very cheap route (Re. Free route) and give an old receiver I had laying around a chance at doing the double duty as headphone/speaker amp before I laid down more money for a different solution.
The amp in the picture is an old Denon DRA-365R. While I don't have a ton of experience with high end speaker or headphone amps it does sound MUCH better than my previous DTA amp and there is no hum/buzz.
I have no doubt that a more expensive DAC than the U202 + a dedicated headphone amp would be better, but I was very happy with my free solution.
As I understand it the quality of the headphone amp portion on receivers can vary very widely, but so far I'm happy with my "free" headphone amp solution.
I use one of these. Ultra-Low Latency 2 In/2 Out USB/Audio Interface with Digital Output https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QhA5xb6BFAK22
No idea what I bought or how good it is ahaha compare to my motherboard it might be an upgrade?
If it's a Dell XPS desktop, if it has a dedicated sound card, you probably move it over, as even pre-builts usually have 1 extra slot for cards on the motherboard. If it is not a dedicated sound card, then no.
So if you don't have a dedicated sound card you can try and buy a USB DAC, which is essentially an external soundcard, and are usually better than their similarly priced internal competitors.
This one is good, and cheap. Well liked in budget-phile circles. If you only need a headphone out, this is the way to go:
http://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-HIFI-PCM2704-Black-Cable-Sliver/dp/B00F7IRUDA/
If you need both headphone out and speaker out this is a great DAC for $30:
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/
Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers with 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweete... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_MxT0tb07XBZBHMED
Get those and this...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_uyT0tb1DJGE7K379
And you'll be all set. Those speakers are amazing. If you are confused on how to set it up let me know. And let me know if you need an amplifier.
This is about the cheapest thing I'd suggest
This is also an option and liked by a couple people around here.
Depends on your budget. You'll probably do better than the built in electronics if the turntable by getting an external phono preamp and a USB interface to your computer.
I work in a studio where I've had to do this before for installed background music. Frankly our setup is overkill if we were doing just digitizing vinyl – custom preamp into a full ProTools HDX system. You can find some good preamps and stereo interfaces for <$100 though. Follow directions that come with the preamp for grounding.
Some quick finds thanks to google:
Preamps
ART DJPRE II
Berhinger PP400
USB Interface
Berhinger UCA202
One thing I highly recommend though: the last thing before you hit record in audacity, clean the record. Find a kit on amazon and follow the directions to avoid damaging the record. This will get rid of any dust and improve the quality noticeably. At my studio we do this even if the record is new, and it does make a difference.
Edit: fixed bad links
So I got a pair of LSR305s a year a go to plug into my computer and use for listening to music while I work and for some gaming. When I'm at my desktop, they sound fine. However, when I get into something more intensive like a video game or exporting a video, I get some really annoying noise.
My motherboard audio doesn't work well, so if I need some sort of external interface it would have to be USB, anything analog from the computer wouldn't work. Right now I have them hooked up to this.
This is from the tweeter
And this is from the woofer
So anyways this is pretty annoying and I'd like to make it stop. I'm not much of an audio expert so I'd love it if you guys could give me some help.
I'm guessing I need a better DAC to fix this? I'd like to spend around $100 if I need some hardware to fix this. Thanks!
yeah it's this guy
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
stereo out for headphones, optical out for going to an amp/speakers
That will work but it is prone to static and damage.
If you cant wait for a decent interface, this is cheap and fairly cheerful.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-UCA202-U-Control-low-latency-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
Get an external soundcard to test it if you want. I use this one, https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
It doesn't have the best input and output slots though but it is simple and sounds great.
Hey, [here's] (http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_14?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412390671&amp;sr=1-14&amp;keywords=audio+mixer) a thing!
I was told that the M50 is the best can for the money. and that a dac and headphone amp will make better sounds.
I got a Beringer DAC because that is supposed to be the best:
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395338586&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=behringer+dac
Right? Like i said i am a noob sorry
Make your own... start with amp and speakers then buy a DAC and a sub later when you have the money
amp
speakers
DAC
sub
BTW wattage doesn't really mean anything it mostly a marketing scam