Reddit Reddit reviews Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, Fills Pinholes, Scratches, Minor Dings & Hairline Cracks, 4.5 oz, 1 Tube

We found 14 Reddit comments about Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, Fills Pinholes, Scratches, Minor Dings & Hairline Cracks, 4.5 oz, 1 Tube. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Body Repair & Restoration Adhesives
Body Repair & Restoration Chemicals
Oils & Fluids
Automotive
Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, Fills Pinholes, Scratches, Minor Dings & Hairline Cracks, 4.5 oz, 1 Tube
Versatile formula repairs scratches, pinholes, holes and nickCan be used on paint and primerOne-part application requires no mixingFast drying – sandable in 30 minutesNon-staining to help ensure a consistent paint finishUse during the Fill stage of the 3M Body Repair System
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14 Reddit comments about Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, Fills Pinholes, Scratches, Minor Dings & Hairline Cracks, 4.5 oz, 1 Tube:

u/umopapisdnwei · 8 pointsr/canada

Amazon.ca used to have it for $4.99... Maybe their supplier jacked up the prices.

Even at Canadian Tire, it's significantly higher than the US$2.65 price on Amazon.com.

u/Stone-Bear · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

Hey guys,

You may have seen this post on /r/overwatch yesterday. I 3D printed this mask on my Monoprice Maker Select.

Used PLA, and basic settings in Cura (200/50 temp).

This is my recommended guide to finishing a 3D printed Prop for any one curious:

Rustoleum Filler Primer - Do 2 or 3 layers of this. Maybe more, you'll know if you need a layer or more. Do some sanding between layers.

I hate regular bondo, so I use Bondo Spot putty, this is what I used to fix everything else. Round out edges, add detail, and to smooth out. Lots and lots of sanding. I used several layers of Bondo spot putty, the trick is to lay it on thin, and do many layers. Don't get impatient and slather it on.

mask after one layer of primer & getting ready for paint

before visor & side view

u/andysaurus_rex · 3 pointsr/3DS

Damn... Does the screen still work? Is there any damage on the other side? I doubt Nintendo will do anything about it because it's a LE, so you can either A) sell it at a severe loss B) try and do a home repair with some sort of filling glue and paint. Maybe something like this and some gold paint that you go over with some clear lacquer. Won't ever look the same, but if you put a Hori TPU case over it, then it might not be so obvious.

u/disposable-assassin · 3 pointsr/cosplayers

What kind of pits and holes we talking about here? If its what I'm thinking of they're small and from air bubbles mixed into the bondo while combining the red catalyst. If that's the case, I usually have those as well and finish with glazing &spotting putty to fill those.

u/blatant-disregard · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Here's what comes to my mind.

The big ones:

Squadron

Tower

Mega Hobby

Lucky Model (Hong Kong)

HobbyLink Japan (Japan)

Hannants (UK)

Smaller shops:

MidTenn hobbies

Roll Models

Great Models

and since you are looking for tools specifically, I'll add

Micro-Mark (pricey, but WOW)

I'm not going to plug any of the listed sites other than to say I have ordered from every one at least once and have had no bad experiences with any of them. As for pricing, sorry to have to tell you but there's no single answer to that one. Prices vary widely between shops and depending on the item you are looking for. Normally the best thing to do is to just shop around.

I'd say to just head to Squadron and get what you need (to browse, just go to Search and hit the Type pulldown). Even if they aren't the cheapest on some stuff, it's not going to be that much of a difference, especially on supplies. Plus their shipping is reasonable and you'll then be on their mailing list which will net you a nice flyer/catalog in your mailbox every month that's great bathroom reading material.

Putty & sandpaper: go to a local shop that sells auto-body supplies (Even something like Autozone will do in a pinch). Get a tube of Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty (or you can apparently save $131,069.71 on it at Amazon, WTF?). That one tube will last you for years. You can also typically get sheets of wet-or-dry sandpaper down to around 10000 grit (in the good places).

Lastly, if you have a decent flea-market near you, head on over there and look for the folks selling used dental tools. You can find all kinds of useful implements digging through their stuff: scribers, scalpels, tweezers, tiny spatulas (for putty), and much more.

HTH

u/theCaitiff · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I like Durham's Water Putty. It is cheap, fills the grain, easy to sand, doesn't shrink, cures hard, and is easy to find at most big box home stores. It's a tan powder, add water until it is peanut butter consistency and it is ready to sand in 20 minutes.

To me, Bondo doesn't sand as well. Add to that frustration, you have to mix bondo with a curing agent to get it to harden.

Air drying spot putty can be a little trickier to find but is a favorite of some people. As the name implies, it does not need any additional during agents.

I do NOT recommend regular wood filler. Unlike Durham's, it will shrink and pull away from your parts, potentially ruining your finish a week or two after you declare it "done".

u/Moeparker · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

To repair models I use:

https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/

Now I just tried that on the HelmetFull and it did not fix the gaps. That's just missing parts of the model.

For gaps like that I'd use the spot putty.
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY

I use that to fill in the big gaps. Then spray on primer, sand, spray again, etc. The way I finish my parts is as follows:



I fill holes, then spray primer, 3 coats. 120 grit sandpaper over all of it, pretty good pressure.

Then 2 more coats after I dust it off. Then medium pressure sanding with 220 grit sandpaper.

Then 2 more coats with medium pressure sanding using 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.

1 more coat, then light sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper. By the time I'm done my 3D prints are smooth as glass.


Far as the model itself, I used Rhino 3D to model and looks like it's easy to grab each piece and "export selected" as it's own file.
http://imgur.com/jFVN7Ve


If you wanted to you can get a 90 day free trial of Rhino 3D from their website. Full version for 3 months, free. That's how I was able to play with it and decide it's the software i wanted.

I might be able to save all those armor pieces as individual pieces. Seems fast enough. ...ok yeah it was.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9_Cuin8abLtUmlkNHowSFhrd3M&usp=sharing

That SHOULD be a google drive shared folder. idk, never used it before.

31 items, should be all the armor pieces from neck to toes.

Good luck

u/cartesian_jewality · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Thanks for the response!

Yea, on the lower end of the bumper it was pierced. I'll go ahead and clean the hole out before I fill it then probable 2000 grit wet sand the area.


What do you reccomend for areas like this?
https://i.imgur.com/tKRiTOZ.jpg

This is the type of filler I picked up, how well will this look painted?
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY


u/nubbinator · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you want it to look professional, you'll have to put some time into it. Get yourself some Bondo (or spot putty) and a mixed grit sandpaper kit and start filling in the gaps. After that, sand down the case so that paint will stick to it and apply auto body spray paint to it. Do a few coats to get a nice ever coating and let it dry then, if you want, you can put different sealants/finishes on it get it matte or shiny.

Of course, that's a lot of work, but it's the only way that will look "professional".

u/PowerUpProps · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/rilesjenkins · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I don't really have good advice for you there. I've been using this stuff simply because my roommate had it on hand. It's not the easiest to work with but it's been getting the job done. The Punished Props YouTube channel has some good tips for spot filling. One of which is mixing super glue with baking soda (I think) to make it more of a paste. I'm considering giving that a try eventually.

u/sinefine · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

filling primer will take forever to fill that.

Use either this:

https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466828734&sr=8-1&keywords=bondo+glazing+and+spot+putty

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466828746&sr=8-1&keywords=perfect+putty

Pros and Cons of both materials:

Bondo hardens like a brick in 30 minutes and very easy to fill gaps and to sand it away. But it is harmful if you breathe in too much so you need an organic gas mask and eye protection.

Perfect Putty isnt that hard when it dries but it is not harmful. But it is water soluble so you need to seal it after.