Reddit Reddit reviews BYB 100W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter Brooder Coop Pet Infrared Lamp Bulb, White

We found 13 Reddit comments about BYB 100W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter Brooder Coop Pet Infrared Lamp Bulb, White. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Pet Supplies
Reptiles & Amphibian Supplies
Terrarium Heat Lamps & Mats
Terrarium Heat Lamps
BYB 100W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter Brooder Coop Pet Infrared Lamp Bulb, White
☀ Perfect for high humidity terrariums; lasts up to 10,000 hours☀ Use only with a porcelain socket (E26 socket). To avoid scald, please wait at least 1 hour of cool down after turn it off☀ Voltage: AC 110-120V; Power: 100w; Material: Ceramic, Metal, NiCrAl☀ This non-light emitting heater bulb offers an excellent 24 hours heat source and will thoroughly heat any reptile without the disturbance of an additional light source☀ It will also increase the ambient air temperature in the terrarium. Infrared heat penetrates the scales and skin tissue, promoting health and healing as it widens the blood vessels and increases blood circulation.
Check price on Amazon

13 Reddit comments about BYB 100W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter Brooder Coop Pet Infrared Lamp Bulb, White:

u/_ataraxia · 10 pointsr/snakes

a thermostat is a device that regulates the power of another device, such as a heat lamp, in order to control the temperature. a thermometer measures temperature, nothing else.

i'm seeing a ton of red flags here, so i'm going to post my BP info dump. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

  • the basics and then some
  • common problems
  • feeding problems
  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
u/elevatorwhisperer · 3 pointsr/Hedgehog

Hi!

I can point you to the CHE setup I am using for my hog.
I use a Zoo Med clamp lamp ($20)
with a 100W CHE bulb ($11)

I have tried a couple of different thermostats. I currently use and recommend the Zilla reptile thermostat ($26). I like this one because (1) it has clear lights indicating when the lamp is on, and (2) the dial has clearly labeled temperatures so you can set it to something like 74 degrees and be happy. My previous themostat didn't have any temperatures labeled on the dial which was incredibly irritating.

Finally, and this is absolutely not necessary, I also use a Zoo Med reptile lamp stand ($20). My hog lives in a plastic sterilite bin and, after reorganizing my living room, I no longer have a good place to clamp the lamp to. The lamp stand allows me to clamp the lamp to the stand where I can easily slide the cage in and out to better access the hog.

Note: I don't know if its only my area, but for some reason Amazon's prices for all of these components are significantly less than all the nearby pet stores (e.g. a CHE bulbs at the two closest brick-and-mortar stores cost $30-$40 vs $11 at amazon)

u/WaulsTexLegion · 3 pointsr/Hedgehog

My wife and I don't use heating pads. We have a dedicated enclosure for our hedgie and use central heat and air coupled with a heater and window unit to keep his temp at around 75°F. That being said, there are passive things you can do to help keep the room warmer. Blackout curtains help keep the room at a more constant temperature. Depending on the size of the room, a heater like this one can help stabilize it too. Heating pads can be useful, but if at all possible, it'll be safer to try and keep the ambient air temperature in the proper range.

​

Also, depending on what kind of enclosure you're using, you might want to use a ceramic heat emitter with a temperature sensor on it and use a battery operated thermometer to measure temp near hedgie level. We used to have this set up and kept the thermometer on top of Odin's hut so we could get a reading from somewhat higher than where he'd be. Once it's dialed in, the CHE with the temp sensor will keep your hedgie comfy and warm.

u/ganduvo · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Also what I use, except the Amazon one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOBZT80/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

It works great. Make sure you have a fan in there to distribute the heat.

​

Edit: Just wanted to add that I've also used small space heaters and even a hair dryer in the past with good results, although those most definitely have a higher possibility of bad things happening.

u/P3N3LOP33P · 2 pointsr/snakes

If you're keen on doing some work to save money and have some tools lying around, you could build your own enclosure for much cheaper than premade ones. There's plenty of tutorials and the materials (usually wood or acrylic) are fairly affordable. The long term costs of owning a snake are pretty negligible, it's the initial cost that's going to be pretty high.

Aside from the enclosure, you also need; a heat mat (ex), a thermostat (ex1 ex2), thermometer and hygrometer (ex), substrate (ex1 ex2), 2 hides (ex), water dish (ex), ceramic heat emitter (ex), cleaning supplies (ex), and a mist bottle (ex).

Those are all just examples and some of them might not work for you, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Things that aren't "technically" a requirement but are highly recommended are plants/decor and a light (UVB if you want to spoil them) to provide a day/night cycle. If you're wanting a Ball Python, options are practically endless on MorphMarket. Just make sure you do your research on a breeder before buying.

u/ohhrissa · 2 pointsr/ballpython

Your ball python is nocturnal, you don't need to light it up. Light will not only stress your snake out but eat away at your humidity. There is ZERO reason to add lights to your enclosure. Check out Ceramic Heat Emitters. They produce heat, but do not produce humidity eating stress inducing light. I have CHE's on both my enclosures. The day light that fills my office is enough "day and night cycle" as some people seem to think it's needed.

Check out CHEs. They produce heat, but no light. http://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00IOBZT80/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462043496&sr=1-4&keywords=ceramic+heat+emitter
You'll want to plug this into a lamp dimmer, cheap but very important. The dimmer will allow you to control the temp of your CHE. http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug--Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462043561&sr=8-1&keywords=lamp+dimmer
This is a much much better alternative to a heat bulb, the red and the black lights are also not needed. Your CHE can stay on all the time, just make sure you have accurate digital humidity and temp gauges so you can keep things steady.


Your humidity should be at 55-65%, cool side 80-82, ambient 84-86, and warm side 88-90. If you're using a tank, blocking out three sides with black poster board or anything like that will help make your snake feel more secure and help insulate it a little. If you have a screen lid, using aluminum tape on top of the lid spare where the CHE in it's hood sits will help insulate heat and humidity inside the tank a bit.

u/seanthenry · 1 pointr/OffGrid

What you would want is something like this Whynter FM-85G 85-Quart DC Freezer There are other options and you might be able to get it local but this is an example.

By going to DC power you reduce the loss from changing from DC to AC. If you keep everything on DC you will not need to have an inverter but if you have the panels far away from the batteries you might want to go with a 24v system and step the voltage down after the batteries to 12v. If the batteries are close to the freezer the wires can be kept a reasonable size.

I would go with some GC-2 batteries check for them at sams club or similar. They are 6v so they will need to be paired for 12v. If you want to go for long term batteries look into Iron Edison. With any battery setup you will want to be able to control the temp some since it is outside, protect from sun and heat by covering it and adding a small DC fan, in the winter running a incandescent light or a reptile heater. Doing that will help keep things easy on the batteries.

u/AutoModerator · 1 pointr/ballpython


I am a bot programmed to automatically provide the following content by /u/_Ataraxia when summoned. Link to the most recent version of this content here

The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

Ball Python Care Guides

  • the basics and then some
  • common problems
  • feeding problems

    Set-up Recommendations

  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. some popular brands include animal plastics [most recommended], boaphile plastics [i personally have these and like them], reptile basics, and vision cages, though you'll find many more with a quick google search. many people will use a tub at first and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as pro products [most recommended] or reptile basics.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

    Copypasta version 7/24/2018 (c) /u/_Ataraxia

    I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.
u/acoustic_kitten · 1 pointr/herpetoculture

I buy this
Edit: They lasted over a year now, bought in 2015. They also have 150 W which I've bought and am very happy with.