Reddit Reddit reviews C2G 28750 4x2 S-Video + Composite Video + Stereo Audio Selector Switch, Black

We found 21 Reddit comments about C2G 28750 4x2 S-Video + Composite Video + Stereo Audio Selector Switch, Black. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Audio & Video Accessories
Audio & Video Selector Boxes
Accessories & Supplies
Electronics
Electrical Distribution Products
C2G 28750 4x2 S-Video +  Composite Video + Stereo Audio Selector Switch, Black
Connect S-Video, RCA Composite Video, and stereo audio components to a TV or home theater system.Input: Four RCA Audio/Video Female, Four S-Video FemaleOutput: Two RCA Audio/Video Female, Two S-Video Female
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21 Reddit comments about C2G 28750 4x2 S-Video + Composite Video + Stereo Audio Selector Switch, Black:

u/SpetsnazV19 · 20 pointsr/gamecollecting

All 16 consoles are set up to work with just a few button presses. As well as my PC which used this to switch between my monitor and the TV. I use this component switch, this HDMI switch, and this S-Video switch.

u/gredgex · 5 pointsr/retrogaming

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M?ie=UTF8&keywords=s%20video%20switch&qid=1463513498&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

i use this one, it works fine and i haven't had any issues with it. also, your SNES will have the most improvement over your other consoles, like a real noticeable difference. the N64 and Gamecube will have slightly better resolutions, but mostly just better colors.

u/Mike_Rotchisari · 3 pointsr/vinyl

I've got you covered for about $35, possibly cheaper depending on whether or not your turntable already has a pre-amp built in.

What you need:

  • Pyle Phono Preamp for $15.42 - cheap, will get the job done. I have a feeling that you've got something already if you are listening to records at proper volume
  • adapter cable like this - so your 3.5 mm input will be switched to RCA plugs
  • Y-cable like this - this is for your computer
  • This A/V switcher for $16.79 - This is where the magic happens. You could honestly buy any switcher that does the same thing as this at a local store, but here's what's cheap on Amazon.

    Here's how it works:

  • 3.5mm on your speakers -> RCA adapter -> one of the outputs on your switcher
  • Line out from turntable -> preamp -> input on switcher
  • audio out jack on computer -> Y cable -> input 2 on switcher

    Now all you have to do is press a button to change inputs. And like I said earlier, if your turntable already has a pre-amp built in, or you already own a pre-amp or receiver, then you can knock $15 off the price and have everything you need for under $20. Possibly right now if you head to a WalMart or something.

    Edit: The bonus about this method is you keep the signal analog the whole way through. Also, as mentioned by /u/apapousek, a two channel system is the absolute best audio upgrade you can make at the moment.
u/GothamCountySheriff · 3 pointsr/vinyl

The LP120 and A2+ are all you will need to start spinning records.

You won't need an external preamp, because the LP120 has one built in. You won't need a receiver/amplifier because the A2+ have built in amplification. You won't need an equalizer, unless you want to adjust the audio frequency for some reason.

The only thing you may need is a passive switch box and/or a passive volume control. The passive switch box will allow you to hook more than one input source (turntable, mp3 player, etc) to your A2+ speakers. A passive volume control will allow you adjust the volume more easily than reaching behind the A2+ speakers each time you want to change the volume level.

The passive switch box (aka A/V switcher) is available at nearly any big-box or online retailer. The passive volume control can probably be found at multiple places as well. Links for reference:

http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5--2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU/

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M

http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Composite-Selector-Switch/dp/B005LT1CXO

http://www.amazon.com/Axxess-AALC-Controller-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003FPD3IS

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O

u/roushimsx · 3 pointsr/gamecollecting

In that case go for a switch like this. Four composite/svideo inputs, no power supply required, and balls cheap.

Component switches seem to be pretty pricey, but there's this one from Monoprice that should be able to do you good for your Wii/PS2/Xbox. If you have a learning remote thingy (like a Harmony or whatever) then you can program it and stuff (though you'll probably still have to get up to toggle whatever system you're going to be playing...so..yea...).

You're going to be running into power issues with having all of your systems hooked up, thanks to the bulky ass bricks so many of them used. Don't be the jack off that daisy chains surge protectors and extension cables, just buy something with decently spaced out outlets like this.

I also recommend labeling the cables on both ends to save on headaches later. Label which switch/port it's going to on the side that connects to the system and label the side that connects to the switch with the name of the system. You don't need to buy Kableflags, but at the very least rig something up with scotch tape and a piece of paper. It's a little redundant, but it doesn't hurt to tape a small piece of paper to the back of the TV / top of the switch / under the switch / whatever with the current, complete configuration of your whole setup, too.

u/if1ghtdragons · 3 pointsr/crtgaming

If none of your consoles are modded for RGB, then S-Video is not a bad alternative. S-Video looks great for 240p consoles. Beware that the N64 might still look pretty bad without an RGB mod to enable de-blur, but as far NES/SNES/Genesis/PS1 and those consoles go, S-Video is pretty damn good! GameCube and PS2 will look alright through S-Video, not great. Another plus is that decent S-Video cables are a hell of a lot cheaper than decent RGB cables, so the 14N1U is a very good budget choice for going the S-Video route.

Just add a switch like this for your S-Video setup, and you're good to go: https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M?ie=UTF8&keywords=s%20video%20switch&qid=1463513498&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

Of course, make sure the geometry, colors and contrast on the PVM you buy is decent. If not, it will be disappointing no matter the input.

u/Umlautica · 2 pointsr/audiophile

It's really unlikely but I've had it happen before on cheap stuff, specifically this product. There was a bad trace or soldier job which made one channels sound horrible. I had to add a bodge wire to fix it. If it's made even halfway decently though, it will be completely transparent.

u/Zero198 · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

Another redditor had suggested This and it's been a great switch box, it has s-video inputs on all of them so you can get great quality out of it.

u/Shadowtek · 2 pointsr/retrogaming

Definitely use the Svideo, if you don't want to go the SCART to Component route. I used Svideo cables coming out of the SNES/N64 and they go into a switch that handles svideo and composite RCA(Red, White, Yellow) Cables. Then the switch outputs everything over one svideo cable into the svideo port and the sound I run into the red/white. [Switcher similar to mine] (http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M)


Best N64/SNES Svideo cable is this one but there are cheaper ones out there too but your mileage will vary. Those cables can be found on ebay usually for more the $50 range. So Run your NES over the composite RCA into the switch, your SNES/N64 into the switch via svideo, and then use just the svideo out on your switch and the red/white audio out because svideo only carries video not audio.


If you really want to get into RGB/SCART/COMPONENT Setups, I'd look at the other posts and also here If you want to do that, you'll need SCART cables for your SNES and 64, then need to run them into a box like [this] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/221156873851) And you'll need to split out audio like [this] (http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/157395/adding-audio-to-the-cvs287-scart-to-component-converter) also you might need a SCART switch to run from the consoles into SCART switch then out put in SCART to the converter box then from the converter box to the Component on your TV. Also your N64 will need to be modded for RGB output and your NES will too.


The SNES is the only one in your setup outputting full RGB by default. Honestly un-modded Composite is the best you get for NES and Svideo for N64(some even say composite is better for N64 depending on the model and chipsets in the N64).



I've toyed with that setup but honestly Svideo on the old Sony Trinitron looks great to me. Also monster cables are well known for quality, good insulation, etc. So I have some RCA composite Monster cables, the Svideo ones, and a few random RCA ones too.

u/ZeosPantera · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Cheapest ghetto answer is going to be an RCA Switch and Line Level Control

Then you just leave everything at full out and pick and choose.

u/bradAHA · 1 pointr/audio

I don't know any reciever that does apt-x. This is probably the cheapest receiver with preouts and a zone 2. It'll do Zone 2 pre amplifier or at amplifier level, depending on what you need and still let you do 7.1. Run the surround or surround back preouts to something like this, hook up the output from your computer and input to your computer speakers here as well. Sorry it's not cheaper, but preouts aren't cheap. If you have passive speakers (ones with a separate amp), you can make it work with any surround receiver with a different switch

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/audio

Non-mobile: this

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/Equinoxe · 1 pointr/audiophile

You understand correctly. Something like the Cables to Go audio/video selector switch or Recton VS1002 A/V switcher would work well, but have a look at some other options as there may well be something a little more compact or that looks better. Also search for "a/b switch". You could even use this tiny Sescom A/B switch.

u/brent20 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I can’t seem to find one on Amazon at the moment, but back in the day I bought a 4 input AV (you know, the yellow and red/white RCA connections) switcher that had an IR remote control, with this I was able to automatically switch it with a Logitech Harmony remote. By the end, I was using it just to switch audio into my amplifier,

Anyway fast forward to today with home automation. If I was in your shoes I’d get that exact same switch and use a Broadlink RM Pro with Home Assistant to Control the input source selection via IR commands sent from Home Assistant.

There was another passive switch I had before the one with the IR Control (I got tired of getting up and changing it) it was literally passive and the press of one of the 4 buttons would connect the RCA connections to the output connection terminals. Maybe a switch like this could be taken apart and connected to a bunch of relays controlled via your Pi’s GPIO.

Edit: here’s the passive switch that could be taken apart and wired to relays: C2G/Cables to Go 4x2 S-Video + Composite Video + Stereo Audio Selector Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vnWNBbSJWG6VM

For digital audio you can get devices like this to convert it to analog and then connect it to the passive switch: PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5pWNBbPM4GDN8

(This is what I did back in the day with the third generation Apple TV’s optical output)

u/Thinkinruby · 1 pointr/diyaudio

This is definitely possible, but depends on your current setup. If you are using RCA cables for your audio signal, a simple box like this should do fine. That box also handles video, but won't work for newer cables such as HDMI.

Once you get into digital audio and video things get more complicated, but it sounds like that shouldn't be an issue for you.

If you post exactly what audio and video equipment you have, I can be more specific.

u/Shulamana · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1331157098&sr=8-1

I have two of these, IMO they work quite well. Don't go too cheap, otherwise you'll just get a useless paperweight.

u/Nintensam64 · 1 pointr/n64

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M?ie=UTF8&keywords=s%20video%20switch&qid=1463513498&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

There's soneone giving a review that says you need remove two resistors and two capacitors. I did it (no soldering required) you just clip them off an after that the image looks really good.

There's a light shadow effect that never bothered me but check screenshots first

u/OdinRage02 · 1 pointr/retrogaming

Here is the switcher that I use. My tv has s video input so it works great because I can use systems that output s video or composite with this one. Here is an s video cable that would work for both your SNES and your N64. Here is a composite cable that would work with your model 1 Sega Genesis, and Here would be am example of composite cables that would work with you NES.

As for the surge protector, here is the one I use and I really like it because it can hold a lot of the big power bricks that these older consoles like to use. Anyway hope that helped point you in the right direction. Of course it is a little bit of an investment, but overall I bet you will be much happier with a set up like this. I know personally I could never go back to constantly physically switching consoles out when I want to play them, this makes it so much easier to enjoy all my consoles with minimal effort. Good luck on your set up!

u/Shike · 1 pointr/audiophile

this

Just use the audio part of it, and hook the inputs/outputs in reverse. This means that you want the amps to be on the inputs of the device (say 1 and 2), and the DAC on the output.

These aren't polarized and allow flow in both directions, so instead of switching source device (DAC) you're switching the output device.

u/ddayli · 1 pointr/diysound