Reddit reviews Clicker Training for Your Horse

This is a threshold issue, not a bit issue. You need to work her on controlling her impulses, not use more pain. It takes time, but is not complicated. The only change I would make is either use a full-cheek snaffle or a side-pull- something that has a safe lateral pull which will not pull through her mouth or cause damage. I have had success with a super-S, although that can be a bit severe- wrap the metal part with vetwrap.

The Reason- the "competitiveness" built into racehorses and often tortured into barrel horses in not a healthy one, often. It is based on fear. As a herd animal, being left behind meant being eaten. Using pain to control a reaction to fear creates more fear. I know she probably does love running, but the ROOT of the sudden urge to run is still fear.
Barrel horses are seldom given a chance to develop their speed (MANY EXCEPTIONS, I KNOW) in a healthy manner. I have seen 3 year olds barely 3 months into training ridden in twisted wire gags, ridden with sharp spurs and over-unders. If your horse was raced for many years, then it is DEEPLY ingrained that when she needs to run she NEEDS TO RUN NOW OR IT HURTSSSSSS.

WHAT YOU WANT- You want her to turn to you for instruction when she is startled or unsure. This is conditioning rather than training- meaning you need to make it a reflexive response rather than a conscious decision. Think about how long it would take you to teach yourself to stand on one foot and put your hands on your head instantly whenever you are startled... Teaching a horse to not run when they have the urge makes just as little sense to a horse as that does to us, and takes as much time.

Co-LESSON- You also want to re-set your horse's response to confinement. For the same reasons as above.

BEST RESOURCE- The best resource for both, in my experience, is John Lyon's methods. You don't have to do the round-pen part, but it helps. He has a book titled "Troubleshooting" which briefly describes good fixes for all these problems, and the Ground Control Manual is very in-depth, and worth every penny if you figure to be working with green or young horses in the future. I also like the Tellington method.

BRIEF EXPLANATION: For confinement, you need to go back to the basics of "give to pressure". I know she already seems to know this, but she doesn't retain it under pressure. Work on it every day. I use a clicker and treats to very great affect with abused and skittish horses- it works, but get the book so you don't accidentally create a treat-mugger. (Clicker Training For Your Horse, from the Karen Pryor website) The great thing about clicker training is that you can do a little bit- a minute or two several times throughout your visit with your horse.

For the bolting/barn/herd sour behavior- choose a pattern of basic movements. I do "walk 3 steps, stop, bend left then right, turn right, walk stop, repeat". Having a set of simple exercises you can turn to when your horse is upset is a great way to relax them, turn their attention back onto you, calm YOU, and gives you credibility with the horse. Do these exercises in the arena, a LOT, until you notice that your horse relaxes when you do so. Then, go out of the arena a bit. If she is calm, continue. As soon as she starts to get even the slightest bit tense, do several repetitions of your chosen exercise. If she gets too tense, go back until she is calm. I know it is the presense of the other horse which triggers her bolting, but start this exercise alone. When you can do the whole trail ride, including coming home, with her calm- THEN add another stressor in the form of another horse. Begin again in the arena. Walk side by side, then turn away and put her through the exercises as the other horse continues. Then do this as the horse trots, then canters, then runs away. Do not continue to the next step until she is calm, head down, ears to you, no matter what the other horse does. When the other horse can bolt away from yours, THEN repeat this exercise further and further away from the arena. Remember, you have to pull her head to the side BEFORE she takes more than a step, preferably as soon as she tenses to launch. If you drop the outside rein and pull her head towards your boot, she CANNOT run away with you. Unless you are a pixie and she is a draft horse, you are stronger than just her neck. Don't even try to pull back or make her stop that way. If she continues to freak out, bail off. (practice this!!!!!!!) If she DOES freak out, then you have exceeded her threshold and you need to go back a step or two.

Add these to your early xmas wish list:


http://www.amazon.com/John-Lyons-Troubleshooting/dp/1929164319/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408841539&sr=1-4&keywords=john+lyons

http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Horse-Behavior-Training-Book-ebook/dp/B009Z76QE8/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408841570&sr=1-1&keywords=tellington-jones

http://www.amazon.com/Clicker-Training-Horse-Alexandra-Kurland/dp/1890948357/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408841597&sr=1-1&keywords=clicker+training+for+your+horse