Reddit reviews CML Supply Mini Micro Drill Bit Set and Pin Vise Chuck 31 pcs

Can you not use a pin vice? Pretty much all hobby shops sell them, and they're used for drilling super the super tiny holes needed to pin modified models, etc., with bits available in all sorts of sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001RJE3X8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474249537&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=mini+pin+vise&dpPl=1&dpID=51qOueQLNmL&ref=plSrch

For starters, what condition are the miniatures in? Are they packaged still? Assembled but not painted? Are they painted already? Depending on where they're at will determine what you need to do first, so let's assume the worst and go on to the better.

If a figure is already assembled, you'll want to disassemble it. The best way to get the glue off in my experience is to soak the figure over night in acetone. When you pull it out, the glue should be easy to get off. You can generally find acetone in large volumes at hardware stores in the paint section. You can store the acetone and figures in a glass jar or any plastic container that has the recycling logo on it with a number 5 in it and PP underneath it.

If a figure is already painted, you'll then need to get the paint off, without damaging the figures. The best way I've found to do this is with Purple Power, which you can generally find at automotive stores: http://www.clean-rite.com/purplepower_industrial_strength_cleaner_degreaser.html. You can use the same type of container for this as the one mentioned above. Let the figures soak for a day or so, and use a junk toothbrush to get any leftover paint off.

Now that you've got the figures cleaned, you need to prime them. You don't need anything special for this, as long as it's good for metal, however, I recommend a spray on primer. My personal preference is Krylon's general purpose primer, and I prefer gray as opposed to white. You can usually get this in the same place you get your acetone, or you can get it at a hobby shop. http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Spray-Paint/Gray-Krylon-Indoor/Outdoor-Spray-Primer/p/1357

The next step is to get the rest of your supplies:

Super Glue: Can't put minis together without glue! I just use a bottle of Gorilla Super Glue. http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-super-glue

Painting palette: My preference is to use a wet palette for painting but there's definitely a benefit for having a dry palette available as well. Here's a link to a video on making a wet palette and the benefits of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FmxJdZdKdc. In here, they use one from a manufacturer, and it's nice because it's easily closed, but you can just as easily and super cheap with a plastic plate (dollar store), and using a paper towel instead of a sponge. Just cut the paper towel to size, soak it, have a little extra water in there and put the parchment paper down, then add more water. This is what I personally do, and just stick it in the fridge when I'm not using it. If you have an option to make one that you can put a cover on though, that'd be best. For a dry palette, you can just get something like a ceramic tile from the hardware store for like, a dollar or less, and it's super easy to clean.

Brushes: You probably don't want/need to spend a lot on brushes, especially starting out. I'd recommend a few cheap brushes, generally you want the brush sizes to probably be between 20/0 to 2, and also get a small flat brush, preferably with a cat's tongue tip, but it's not necessary, as long as it's flat. It'll be very useful for dry brushing. My recommendation would probably be to get a variety of brushes from Atlas Brush Company: http://www.atlasbrush.com/brush-sets. I'd recommend Style 255-3PS, Style 55, and Style 58A. When your brushes start getting hard to work with, you can usually stick the tips in boiling water for a bit to get them back to shape.

Paints, Washes and Varnish: A lot of people prefer either Vallejo paints or Citadel paints by Games Workshop. My preference, especially since I use a wet palette, is to use Vallejo, though I use some Games Workshop paint as well.

In addition to this, you'll probably want some washes. I don't actually have experience with Vallejo washes - I've only used Games Workshop, but I prefer the washes in the type of container that Citadel uses as opposed to droppers, since I apply them direct from the container. I'd recommend at least Nuln Oil from them if you go with Citadel Games, though I'm sure a black wash from Vallejo is perfectly fine.

Citadel also has Dry paints, which are supposed to be good for dry brushing, but I've not had any experience with them. They may be a good idea for you as a beginner, since you'll probably not have very good technique when you first try to dry brush (I found myself, and still do a lot of times, using too much paint). You can usually find these paints at hobby stores, but at the worst case, you can pick them up cheap on eBay. There are sellers on eBay that have pick-your-selection listings, just search Vallejo Pick and you'll have results.

You'll also want a varnish to seal your piece when you're done. I prefer to use two coats - the first one glossy, then the second one matte.

I recommend you get at least the following: White, Black, Red, Blue, Yellow, Green, Brown, Silver, Matt Varnish, Gloss Varnish, Black Wash

Flocking and Turf: Far from necessary, but if you want to make your bases have that grassy look to them, you'll need this. I use Coarse Turf - Yellow Grass, and then just soak it in the appropriate watered down paint, dry it out, and glue it on with Elmer's Glue. This stuff is generally available at hobby stores. http://www.sceneryexpress.com/YELLOW-GRASS-COARSE-TURF/productinfo/WD0061/

Antennas: A lot of BattleTech minis, especially older ones, should have antennas on them. If you have loose figures, the odds are they have been lost and you'll need to replace them. I've found staples work very well for this. If they're still in the package, you'll see a thin metal piece in there that looks like mechanical pencil lead; you'll just need to cut it to size for your mini. Additionally, these are pretty fragile once you glue them onto the mini unless you put a hole in the mini for it to go in. The best thing for this is to use a Pin Vise and drill bits http://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Micro-Drill-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8. However, I've gotten by just fine using a safety pin and thumb tack.

Files and razor blades: You may need some files and razor blades to get rid of flash (pieces of metal from the vent holes in the mold that may be attached to the figure still) and seam lines. http://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Knife-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O. Personally, I've gotten by with just the piece on my nail clippers that's there to clean and file your nails with.

Water dish: You'll need something to put your paint water in. I use 3 dishes: One for clean water, one for paint water, and one with water and dish soap in it.

Mini stand: You'll generally want to have something to put your mini on while you work with it. If you don't, you'll end up rubbing the paint and primer off of it while you hold it to turn it while you paint. This can be just about anything. My preference is to use something about the diameter of a hex that's a couple inches tall and use Velcro.

Now, you need to figure out what the hell you're doing with all this stuff. I'm far from an expert painter, and I've learned most of my techniques watching videos. You can find a lot of information on YouTube. Here is some good stuff to start off with: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL10C32CB2CD611E84

Hopefully this helps!

EDIT: I'm not the best best painter, in fact I'm still pretty new to this myself, having painted probably just under a dozen minis myself. However, I figured that'd probably put me in a good position to answer your questions as someone who's coming from the same place you're coming. That being said, this is my most recent piece - I just finished the base and varnishing it yesterday: https://imgur.com/a/Vj6fI (Unseen Battlemaster)

I have all of the resources booked marked and ready to go. Plan on starting this project when Spring rolls in. Hope these helps!

Hand drill I purchased:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Micro-Drill-Vise-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451452019&sr=8-3&keywords=pin+vise

Magnetizing guides:

http://macharianthunderguard.blogspot.com/2015/09/kingdom-death-monster-unboxing-and.html

http://roguepainter.com/kingdom-death-survivor-magnetization-tutorial/

Magnets I plan on purchasing (also used in the guides):

1x1mm

^ Woops the 1x1mm I linked are sold out. But you can look up and buy any 1x1mm neodymium magnets on ebay.

1x2mm

2x2mm

So I posted in /r/woodworking and got a pretty good suggestion that is going to work.

For drilling the holes, I ordered a micro drill set that allows me to drill my pilot holes with a small finger drill. This is effective and gives me much more control than attempting to use a power drill (and works just fine).

Then just another note for aligning the sections - in the same woodworking thread they recommend using transfer points. This is a good technique that I was familiar with but will mention. Basically once you have your pilot, you put a specialized plug into the hole where the the plug is built with a sharp tip pointing out of its center. After I've drilled my two pilots in the railing top and bottom rails, I'll put a transfer point into each of those pilot holes, then lightly use the transfer points to "poke" and leave a small target mark in the end newel post. Then I know exactly where to drill my second pilot so that my support dowel will line up.

Thanks for the comments!

You could probably drill it out by hand with just a drill bit if you don't want to spend the money on a complete drill / dremel. Or there's always a hand drill kit, like this. Hardware would probably have one.

It's worth it to support it, though. The position of the break means there will be maximum shear stress on the join. Without a support it's much more likely to fall off. If the contact area was bigger I wouldn't worry about it, but in this case it's quite small compared to the weight it's supporting, so I'd really recommend an internal pin.

Super awesome mini! I still have my Deathguard guys to paint so I'm going to save the picture for reference use;)

A little tip for improvement maybe: Get one of those tiny hand drills with tiny drillbits and gift it to your husband. He can drill a little barrel into the front of the gun which looks even more amazing ;)

Edit:I just checked. It is called a Pin Vice

I'll grab a couple of these that I've learned in the past several months, as I'm also quite new here.

1. Sweet tool called a pin-vice (That one's pretty expensive, shop around). As for magnets, I'm using 2mm diameter, roughly 1mm thick round magnets from I dunno, I googled 2mm round magnet. Bought like 200 of them for something like $10.
   
   
2. If you paint super thin, like one of my favorite twitch streamers, Slowfuse you can just paint right over your mess-up with no problems. If you really really want to strip it, many people use simple-green for plastic models. I don't remember what to use for resin models.
   
   
3. Slowfuse paints practically with the wash-cup water lol. As long as you unload most of the watery paint onto, say your thumb, you will have amazing results with super thin paint. You'll end up doing lots of layers, probably even more than Duncan! You've applied enough coats when the color is as visible as you need for the situation. Sometimes you can use just a coat or two, for tinting the color you put on first, or other times you can keep going until the current color is solid.
   
   
4. Super small brush, very thin paint, multiple layer, steady hand. Sometimes you can clean up a line of paint that went wide with whatever color you mistakenly covered.
   
   I'm going to stop there and hope others will finish the rest and also give their own answers to the first 4, since, as I mentioned, I'm new myself!

I'd also suggest getting a Pin Vise to hold together the parts. I'm not a fan of depending solely on glue with metal parts.

In case you don't know what a Pin Vice is, it's a small, pen shaped, manual drill that you use to drill a hole, big enough to insert a pin into your model. This way you can add a firm set to where your model pieces join together.

I don't know what to tell you with specifics for Spain, but I can give you some general info that may or may not be helpful to you.

First off, there's this link in the sidebar. It'll give you a bunch of options.

Your hobby knife and mouldline remover will be the same thing. The handles all function the same way. However, I'd recommend picking up some kind of hobby knife set so you get a variety of blade shapes to try and multiple handles to use. #11 blades are the standard, and I prefer X-acto brand, but your mileage may vary. Some larger blade sizes won't fit into smaller handles. Buy in bulk to save money. You can remove mouldlines with the back of a blade, rather than a separate tool.

Any kind of cheap and well-reviewed wax tool / clay tool / dental tool set will work for scupting. Same deal with needle file sets. And with your pin vise. The drill bits will break (for any set), though, and bits can be problematic to replace if you're not sure of exact sizing.

hardware stores around me didnt carry the small drill bit that i needed. so i bought this from amazon ----->>>>> link

Thanks man.

Your link led me to this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001RJE3X8/ref=pd_aw_sbs_469_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H9VB2SA2D97TJHZ7KSDR

Pin the SA...

Use a small drill bit with a hand chuck and drill up into the hooves. Then drill corresponding holes in the base. Clip off sections of a paperclip, inject glue into holes, insert paperclips, attach model to base and let sit.

Suggest doing the same for the Phoenix model.

It all sounds hard, but takes literally 5 minutes. And here's a decent [hand drill set] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RJE3X8) that would work fine.

Use a small drill bit- http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Micro-Drill-Vise-Chuck/sim/B001RJE3X8/2
and kill the leds one by one.

Who said it has to be more?

This kit is only $27 shipped and has all the magnets you'll need unless you really go nuts - then you might have to get some more of the middle size eventually.

You also need a pin vice drill

But if you really can't wait, just go really easy with super glue on the arm joints - as that is typically where you magnetize. I'll get some pics here in a sec and update this post.

EDIT Ok here's a quick and dirty magnet album so you can get a good idea of which spots to magnetize. On the Thunderwolves I magnetized the rider in the ass so I can transport them easier. The arms are magnetized for weapon swapping. I also magnetized the backpack of any dude that might ever equip a Jump Pack (blood claws can quickly become sky claws, rune priests are great with jump packs so they can deep strike and psych). Dreadnought arms are pretty obvious. I also magnetized the hand on my battle leader using the smallest magnet size so I could give him a plasma pistol or a combi weapon.

It happens. Pin vises aren't too bad, and neither are brushes depending on what you are looking for. Army painter brushes are good, but they are probably not the best bang for your buck, I just like them because they work for me and I am comfortable with the sizes.

This is one of the two pin vises that I have and the same bit collection. There are plenty of options for everything, though, and if you take it slowly you will amass quite a collection of models and tools. I think limiting your warhammer budget is a good idea too- that way you actually PAINT the models you get and they don't just sit around.