Reddit reviews Command 17206-12ES 3M Large Photo Hangers No Tools or Holes, Strong and Versatile, Value Pack, 12 Picture Strips

In no particular order, other than as they came to my mind:

Note that the term "Lighthouse" and "Base Station" are used interchangeably. I don't know which is technically more correct. I believe "Lighthouse" is the term given to the units by Valve, where as "Base Station" is the term used by HTC to describe the actual units provided - but this may be incorrect. I call them Lighthouses, but the Vive manual calls them Base Stations - these are the same things.

1. If you seem to be having issues, such as the front camera not working, tracking issues, controllers having issues pairing or staying paired, controllers only connect when physically plugged in over USB, etc, don't immediately assume you have a defective Vive - the Vive is very specific on USB controllers and the one in your PC might not be up to spec. Many of the early (and even some of the current) USB controllers are out of spec. Follow the advice in the SteamVR Troubleshooting Article and pick up the Inateck PCI Express USB controller. This thing is just over $20 on Amazon and has made a world of difference for many Vive users. Another tip is if you are having issues with USB 3.0 ports to try using USB 2.0 ports instead of 3.0, and vice versa. The Vive and the Linkbox are technically 3.0 compatible, but the 3-in-1 cable is only USB 2.0, so you won't get a benefit using 3.0 ports on your PC - in fact some users have better success with 2.0 ports. If you are having issues, try changing USB ports.
   
   
2. If you are having tracking issues, try removing everything remotely reflective from around your play area, one by one. Picture frames, mirrors, even shiny curtain rods might be having a huge impact on your tracking stability.
   
   
3. If you have two Vives and you are trying to use them in the same room, do not attempt to setup both pairs of lighthouses - the lighthouses simply send out a blast of IR light, and your Vives will become confused. You can use two Vives with just two lighthouses, but be careful not to smash into each other :). Your best bet is to setup your Vives in different rooms or hang blackout curtains between the two play areas to block the lighthouse signals for the other Vive- in which case it is okay to setup all four lighthouses, as long as each Vive can only see two of them.
   
   
4. Anything that shakes your walls will screw with your tracking. Some users reported they would lose tracking when an AC in another room would kick on. Be sure to mount your lighthouses in a stable area.
   
   
5. It is highly recommended to mount your lighthouses by screwing directly into the walls, but if you for some reason refuse to drill into the walls, some users have had success mounting the lighthouse to a block of wood, and then using something like Command Strips to mount the block of wood to the wall - this is not recommended, do this at your own risk, but some users are doing this.
   
   
6. Make sure your lighthouse mounts are screwed down TIGHT - even a small shift in their mounting position can screw up your tracking, and require rerunning the room setup.
   
   
7. When running the room setup, switch to advanced mode for a more accurate layout - in advanced mode, click the 'Edit' button on your desktop screen (as in, not in VR) to adjust the size, location, and direction of your 'play area'. In advanced mode you can more easily mark out funny shaped walls - personally I always run advanced mode. In regular mode you hold the trigger down and walk around the play area to define your chaperone boundaries - in advanced mode you walk around and pull the trigger to define the boundaries. Both modes are nice, but I recommend learning to define your play area in advanced mode since it is a bit easier to be precise and get the exact layout you want.
   
   
8. The Maximum play area size can be fudged a bit. If you are trying to use an area larger than 16ft 4in (5m) diagonal, you may be able to do so, but your tracking near the center will become less precise.
   
   
9. Each lighthouse should be mounted at least 6ft 6in (2m) off the ground. Higher is better up to a point, as it will reduce the chance you occlude one controller or the other, or occlude one lighthouse from the other (if using optical sync).
   
   
10. The lighthouses have a field of view of approximately 120° side to side and top to bottom, and should be tilted approximate 30° to 45° downwards towards the center of your play area.
    
    
11. It is okay to mount your lighthouses on their side, or even upside down. There is a mounting location on the back, and the bottom of the lighthouse. Each lighthouse has a built in Gyroscope so they know which way they are oriented. The creator of the lighthouse system has said himself that mounting orientation does not matter, though it may affect your play area limitations. You can mount them upside down and from the ceiling if you need to.
    
    
12. The lighthouses can be operated with or without the sync cable as they can communicate wirelessly, though without the sync cable they must be facing each other as they communicate optically. Without the sync cable, they must be on channels B and C. With the sync cable, they must be on channels A and C. You can press the button on the back of the lighthouse to switch channels, and the current channel is visible on the front of each lighthouse.
    
    My Vive did not come with a manual, though I preordered and they may be shipping them with manuals now - I had a quick start guide, but no manual - you can find the manual here where much more information about proper setup and usage can be found.
    
    Also - Welcome to the club :). Assuming your PC passes the SteamVR Performance Test, you will be very happy with VR :) There is nothing quite like being in true roomscale VR - it is amazingly fun.
    
    Edit: Also, I'll take this chance to plug my (currently free) VR utility application - stop reading now if you hate self plugs :). My app - OpenVRDesktopDisplayPortal allows you to clone a Desktop Window into a cross game VR Overlay. This Overlay can be placed into the world, attached to screen like a HUD, or attached to one of the controllers. Personally, even while playing games I like to leave Netflix on and game while I watch a movie or TV show - for most VR games there's just too much action going on though - but for some games, like Elite Dangerous or Euro Truck Sim, you have a lot of down time which can get quite boring. OpenVRDesktopDisplayPortal (OVRDDP for short) can be used to bring a desktop window, like a browser window, right into VR! You can read the Instructions here, or download it from this page. The current public version can only capture a 360p up to about 480p video at 24FPS or more, which is required for the video to look smooth - though my local source can clone my full monitor, 2560x1440, at 150FPS+ :). I'm in talks with Valve to get this on the Steam Store, but right now you can just resize your content to 360p and consider it a free demo :).
    
    There are quite a few people using OVRDDP to clone videos right into VR, there are also a few people cloning security cameras (watching the door for pizza deliveries :P) or baby monitors right into VR. You can also use it to clone browser windows into VR, which can be handy for games like Elite Dangerous where you can look up item prices online, or pretty much anything else you want.
    
    For content like Netflix or Hulu, you can full screen the video, target it with OVRDDP, then lock the aspect and resize the video to 360p - Even though it is supposed to be full screen, it can be resized to 360p - this lets you clone just the video instead of the full browser window. I gave the exact steps in this comment here.
    
    There are a few programs that can't be captured with the current public release - for Chrome, you must disable Hardware Acceleration. Firefox seems to work fine. I also heard that MPC-HC cannot be cloned, but VLC works great :). For VLC, you can use the fullscreen trick to clone just the video, or use the cropping settings labelled 13 in this picture to clone just the area of the video you want. For more information, see the Compatibility Article, though it's a bit outdated right now.
    
    Full HD support coming soon regardless of if I can post it on the steam store, but right now you can use the public release as a demo for what's to come.

Just used command strips dude

I stopped using nails years ago

https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-12-Strips-17206-12ES/dp/B00LOQMCDM/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483898461&sr=1-4&keywords=3m+hanging+strips

3M commands strips: https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-12-Pairs-17206-12ES/dp/B00LOQMCDM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511833029&sr=8-2&keywords=3M+command

So it's tough for your space since it's pretty small. Given the furniture you have that could interfere I would probably place the one camera centered on the wall above your bed up near the ceiling and angled towards the center of your play area, and the other centered above your window near the ceiling.

Generally having them in opposite corners (this is how mine are) would be better, but your cabinets would get in the way. You might have some issues since you will be fairly close to the camera, but I think you can get away with it.

My cameras are mounted using 3m command strips and small camera mounts. I chose this route since I cannot drill into my apartment walls without losing my deposit. I just stuck the strips to the back of the mounts and to the walls. If you choose this route make sure you give the adhesive some time to set before you actually put the camera up (on both the camera mount and the wall).

These are what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LOQMCDM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm in an apartment so I didn't want to go with anything permanent. After trying a few things I ended up just using two 3m Command Strips on each base and mounted them upside down. Actually works really well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LOQMCDM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481636494&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=3m+command+strips&dpPl=1&dpID=51Zr0mzkkyL&ref=plSrch

Command Velcro Strips. Large size. If they are too wide, cut them up the middle so that you retain. The pull strip. Comes off the wall and object cleanly and hold very well so long as your wall paint isn't powdery. For applying to glossy backed or painted frames, they stick well. For applying directly to wood I use a little super glue with a kicker to dry it fast (don't glue to the wall obviously). We have a number of my wood projects and even a framed mirror approximates 36x24 all hung with these type strips. For your project because I over do it, I would use four strips.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LOQMCDM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497563244&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=command+velcro+strips&dpPl=1&dpID=51Zr0mzkkyL&ref=plSrch

Try these plus these. Admittedly I don't have mine on the ceiling, but I don't see why they wouldn't work.

3M Command mounting strips. They are apparently easy to remove (haven't actually tried). You can get these with just the tape or this velcro-like strips which will let you readjust the frame if needed.

similar to this? https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-12-Pairs-17206-12ES/dp/B00LOQMCDM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497244332&sr=8-4&keywords=command+strips

Rubbing Alcohol

My entire house has a ton of command strip devices in it, including the four camera mounts. Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol, let it dry. Apply the strip to the camera mount first, then press the mount to the wall surface for a minimum of 30 seconds. Put your back into it! The only strips that have come down are the craptastic cable ties that tend to break with a light breeze.

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Really, what you want for the camera mounts are these strips. They are overkill, velcro (easily removable/adjustable), and worth every penny.

this is a dope space! i'd love spend a year or two in japan someday; what's the rent for a place like this?

you can definitely still hang stuff without nails or thumbtacks; look into some heavy-duty 3M strips like this. maybe focus on finding lighter frames to ensure everything stays up.

other than that, get some standing shelves and fill them with cool/weird/interesting knick knacks. idk what the thrifting/antiquing scene is like in Nihon, but that's an easy way to find cool, vintage stuff to display. my personal favorites are old cameras, telephones, radios, etc.

I use the pulleys on the ceiling but I attached them with Command Strips. I used the velcro ones to hang pictures. No need to worry; just remove them cleanly when needed.

3M Adhesive.

https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-12-Pairs-17206-12ES/dp/B00LOQMCDM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511754735&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+photo+hanging+strips

I honestly don't understand all these posts about buying $30+(x2) poles and clamps etc. It's silly, especially for a uni student.

This is what you want

Things you will need:

• LARGE Command Strips
  
  
• A decent cheap drill (Check big name hardware stores locally)
  
  
• A block of wood (MAKE SURE TO MEASURE THE THICKNESS TO YOUR SCREWS OR THE SCREWS TO YOUR THICKNESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
  
  
• Some Screws for the vive base station
  
  
  So essentially what you will be doing is drilling into the wood block to mount the vive brackets, and then putting the wood block assembly onto the wall with command strips.
  
  Just make sure to get a thick piece of wood, but not too thick. 1 1/2 inches (3.8cm) thick should do, but it's up to you; and after you get the wood block, make sure to get screws that will NOT pierce your wall. IE: Stop inside the wood block.
  
  Cheap, and doesn't wobble like light poles/clamps etc. (Which are quite silly)
  
  PS: The drill can be found for less than $20. You don't need anything fancy. Also, if you feel confident, you can screw the screws in by hand with a screwdriver, further cheapening the mounting. Also, a tip for the wood block, most hardware stores allow you to cut down the piece of wood right there on site, just ask.

I'm curious how long you had them up before they lost their stick... Did you remove them at all once set up, or reposition them from time to time?

The adhesive that comes with them is just a set of 3M command strips from what I understand (https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-12-Pairs-17206-12ES/dp/B00LOQMCDM) so you can order replacements or just buy them at a local hardware store if needed.

Don't do any of that. Use a bunch of these. My full length mirror has been hanging for years.

Edit: not sure why I'm being downvoted. OP said she isn't handy, and doesn't know what any of that means. These command things work very well and are easy to use. I always use them for my pictures and mirrors.