Reddit Reddit reviews CyberPower CPS1215RMS Surge Protector, 120V/15A, 12 Outlets, 15ft Power Cord, 1U Rackmount

We found 17 Reddit comments about CyberPower CPS1215RMS Surge Protector, 120V/15A, 12 Outlets, 15ft Power Cord, 1U Rackmount. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Accessories & Supplies
Electronics
Surge Protectors
Power Strips & Surge Protectors
CyberPower CPS1215RMS Surge Protector, 120V/15A, 12 Outlets, 15ft Power Cord, 1U Rackmount
120V/15A Rackmount Surge Protector provide critical power protection for data centers, network closets, and VoIP Phone systems.Output: 12 NEMA 5–15R Outlets (6 Front and 6 Rear); Input: NEMA 5–15P Straight Plug With 15 Feet Power Cord.Versatile Rackmount Options: Allow for Installation of the PDU in the Following Configurations: 0U (Vertical, Under Counter, and Wall Mount), 1U (Horizontal, Vertical, Under Counter, and Wall Mount).ADDITIONAL FEATURES: Network-grade plugs and outlets, industrial-grade metal housing, and cord retention tray3-YEAR LIFETIME WARRANTY
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17 Reddit comments about CyberPower CPS1215RMS Surge Protector, 120V/15A, 12 Outlets, 15ft Power Cord, 1U Rackmount:

u/nalybuites · 123 pointsr/cableporn

Here's the composition of the rack:

  • NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  • TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  • TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  • TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  • Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  • Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  • Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  • 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  • Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.

    Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:

  • Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  • 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  • Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  • Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  • Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  • Extra rack screws and washers
  • J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.

    Useful things I learned:

  • I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  • I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  • I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  • Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  • Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  • Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  • Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  • Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.
u/txmail · 11 pointsr/homelab

Shelves... buy some rack mount shelves and put your gear on it. I personally dig these but you can get some lighter duty shelves for about $40. A rackmount PDU is also pretty awesome.

u/MarkK7800 · 5 pointsr/Ubiquiti

You can get the surge protectors with the plugs on the back. And if that doesn't fit, grab some 1 ft extension cords.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00077INZU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Since I plug into a UPS anyway, I bought this power strip and label what each switch does. I love it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFZ98YO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/fanfarecross · 5 pointsr/homelab

No one told me this when I started so I'll tell you:

I think we should specify here that "server rack" and "network rack" are built differently. If you want a rack for networking and just the 24 port switch and patch panel, you'd look at something like this. If you're wanting to eventually put a full-length server in, you'll need something like this instead the difference being that the second one is built to support the length and weight of a full server.

Keep in mind when you purchase a server you'll need to buy rails that attach to the rack for it. The server then sits in the extended rails, which slide back into the rack.

Startech makes pretty good stuff, IMO. I've seen them on here before. I have the four post rack that I linked to in the second post and it's served me well. The best thing you can do however, if you have the room, is to jump on craigslist and see if you can find an enterprise getting rid of their rack. Generally those are worth thousands new and the companies are selling them for $40, or something ridiculous like that. I didn't have access to a truck, so that's why I bought mine.

Note that with the large rack you can add networking equipment too, and can also get shelves to support things that aren't rackable.

For power you can either get a rackable UPS or power strip.

Hope this helps. Have fun.

u/beigemore · 4 pointsr/homelab

My original plan was to build a small Ryzen server to run some VMs on. That plan eventually turned into looking at small racks and deciding I want to run ethernet throughout the house, so naturally I need it all to come together at one location. I bought a 6u rack (can technically hold 8u), a pdu, a tplink patch panel, and I got a free switch poe from Aerohive that I plan on using to power some security cameras. I found a 3u short rack mount computer case that can be mounted "backwards", which helps with air flow in these short racks and allows easy access to all of the io ports.

My Ryzen idea turned into a Theadripper build because of some crazy deals I got, and ended up being its own stand alone build. So I still don't really have a machine setup in the 3u case. I have a Dell board installed with an i7, but the psu has some weird proprietary connectors and the cables are too short for where the psu mounts, so I'll just look into replacing the board and psu at some point in the near future. I then plan on running proxmox and having this run part of a test lab, and maybe eventually act as a router.

I really, really like the pdu, but it's way over kill for this thing, so I'll probably just replace it with a nice surge protector, which will plug into an external battery backup.

I installed two exhaust fans into the top of the rack which run directly off the pdu. I could mount the patch panel 1u higher but the cables running into it would clash with the extra long screws the fans came with, so I will probably Dremel those screws in half when I get time.

The rack itself isn't bad. I had to get the first one replaced because it got destroyed during shipping. Other than having to tighten a few screws on the second one, works very well and came in great shape. I like this rack because it can be mounted on a wall or you can mount wheels to the bottom, which is comes with, and it looks nice while not weighing a million pounds.

Parts I'm using so far:

u/RealityMan_ · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

8 AWG is way overkill. I have a dedicated 15 amp outlet to my rack. What I did was just run the equivalent ground sized on that service back to the panel. 15 amp outlets use 14/2, so I just ran a 14 AWG THHN wire back to the grounding bar of my service. Some will recommend running "one up" (if you run 14/2, run a 12 awg ground) on the ground based on the service, but meh. This will clear any static that builds up on it, and will clear any faults that hit the rack just as good as the existing 14/2. I think it makes more sense on bigger installations, not simple networking equipment.

You can ask COX about getting a drop into that room, but they probably won't do it for you unless you get TV service. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it, but I understand what you are saying. I haven't done anything with my coax, but since I have fiber to the home, all the TV is IP based and I can just run the televisions off the cat 5 jacks.

I would get a PDU for your rack, it will simplify everything when you put it in, and it has a 10 foot cable. I have it run into my UPS and my UPS plugged into the wall.

http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CPS-1215RMS-Rackmount-Power-Surge/dp/B00077INZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459167383&sr=1-1&keywords=cyberpower+pdu%5C

u/Fuzzybunnyofdoom · 1 pointr/homelab

I bought a CyberPower CPS1215RMS which is plugged into a APC 1500 (SMT1500) for surge and BBU. I got the APC for free from work...I'm also on a budget. The CPS1215RMS has been fine for me and after one incident at work where I accidentally bumped/flipped an uncovered switch on a PDU and cycled a full HP2920 switch stack I greatly appreciate having covers on PDU power switches. Thanks to that mistake we have redundant PSU's on those stacks now so it all worked out : )

Tripp lite, in my experience, make solid and reliable gear. If you get either of the one's you've linked you'll be happy. The only thing I'd say is one has a 15 ft. cord, which is alot of cable to hide somewhere or bundle up. The 6 ft. cords are typically plenty.

u/gnartung · 1 pointr/homelab

Just saw that. So I have this Cyberpower 12 outlet PDU with surge protection. That thing is a no-go to plug into a Cyberpower UPS, right?

u/daphatty · 1 pointr/homelab

I gave up trying to find 1U PDUs. I suspect the added intelligent power features require significantly larger logic boards. Ultimately, I bought a 1U surge protector and called it a day.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00077INZU/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Nick_W1 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I use this ADJ switched pdu which works well (and I have labeled the switches).

I also have the Pyle switched PDU, but took it out because is is not well constructed. Specifically the rack mount ears (and faceplate) are plastic, with a strange hollow construction. This means as you tighten the rack screws to hold the weight, the ears crush down and crack. It’s bizarre, the body is metal, but the ears are hollow plastic. No idea what genius came up with this, but it doesn’t work.

You might be able to make it work by putting washers in the hollow, but by the time I figured this out, the ears were toast.

I also have one of These and one of These , both Cyberpower, which work well.

This is my Ubiquiti Network Rack , powered by a Cyberpower UPS.

u/smartdarts123 · 1 pointr/homelab

Yes, I have this in the rack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00077INZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, everything that is plugged into that will be grounded through that via the wall outlet, is that correct?

u/ScalyTiger · 1 pointr/sysadmin

Rack mounted power strips (for things that don't need battery backups) and rackmount 1U monitor console.

Also, document all switch credentials in something like Passwordstate, export all switch configs, color-code ethernet cables, and purchase ethernet cables to necessary length.

u/Scipio11 · 1 pointr/homelab

You could try this bad boy or something similar. It has two fans on the top that pull out the heat. From there it's up to you where to build ducts to move the heat, whether its out the door or somewhere else. Make sure to add netting to the end of whatever duct you put outside to help cut down on bugs (I also have this mounted inside to help with power cable management)

Another thing to check is if you have another room that's more insulated from heat than one with a glass sliding door. I currently have limited space in my apartment, but have blackout curtains on the windows by my gear to help cut down on other sources of heat, I also have an air conditioner nearby that detects the ambient temp and kicks on only when needed (also monitor the humidity in this room to make sure your gear is safe).

The hard truth of it though is that for each BTU your gear puts out you'll have to pay for the same BTU output from your A/C