Reddit reviews Denali's West Buttress: A Climber's Guide to Mt. McKinley's Classic Route

I have not done it, but know a lot about it, enough to think about a summit attempt next spring. And I've spent a fair amount of time on the Ruth Glacier (the glacier over from base camp).

akgreenman is wrong on a few accounts, the West Buttress route is the way to go for a beginner. There are established camps at 700 ft on the Kahiltna Glacier (base camp) then again an established camp with a medical tent at 14,000 feet, and then high camp at 17,200. (there are intermediate camps between those as well, but those are the main three)

The route is mostly a walk up with fixed ropes on the harder parts. It is not technical climbing, but you need to be very careful. The weather can be horrendous and the altitude is very trying. Because Denali (call it Denali not Mt. McKinley if you're a climber) is a higher latitude, it has less dense air and thus is equivalent to a much higher height at the equator. The most important thing are be careful and to acclimatize well and watch the weather.

You will want to read this book by Colby Coombs. Full disclosure, he is a family friend of mine, but it is very informative of someone who runs a guiding service.

If you are not very experienced at altitude and very cold weather, do a guided trip. They have experience and have been up the mountain many times. The cost of a trip like that would be something a bit over $6000 plus the $210 park entrance and mountaineering fee. Places to look at are Alaska Mountain School which is local out of Talkeetna (where you'll fly in from), Alpine Ascents, and RMI. The ratio on those trips will be 4-6 climbers to 2 guides. Colby Coombs (who I mentioned earlier) runs AMS (kind ironic acroynm eh?) and they are very experienced and reliable. I know a head guide for Alpine Ascents who I would follow up anything and I am friends with two younger guides for RMI and that group also seems very organized. Basically use one of those three.

As for training, just be in damn good shape. Know how to use all the gear that would be on the gear list. Go for hikes with packs, learn how to manage sleds full of gear. This is most likely going to be a slog where you spend the day shuttling lots of gear up to a higher camp then go down to a lower camp to sleep, and repeat several times. People say that you'll climb Denali three times for each summit.

If you are thinking that you want to do a more technical, exposed, or remote route - don't. Since you are here asking questions you probably aren't the most experienced and only a few people per year climb other routes than the West Buttress. Denali is not a mountain to be messed with, weather can turn at any moment. Be careful and have fun.

PM me (or just reply) if you have any more questions. I like talking climbing.