Reddit Reddit reviews Dremel 628-01 7 Piece Drill Bit Set

We found 13 Reddit comments about Dremel 628-01 7 Piece Drill Bit Set. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Tools & Home Improvement
Power Tool Parts & Accessories
Drill Bits
Power Drill Parts & Accessories
Power & Hand Tools
Dremel 628-01 7 Piece Drill Bit Set
7-piece set contains bit ideal for drilling into soft materialsIncludes 1/32-inch, 3/64-inch, 1/16-inch, 5/64-inch, 3/32-inch, 7/64-inch, and 1/8-inch drill bitsIdeal for moto-tools, cordless tools, and flex shaft toolsMade of high speed steelConvenient storage case included
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13 Reddit comments about Dremel 628-01 7 Piece Drill Bit Set:

u/CybranKNight · 5 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Just aim to buy drill bits the same size as the magnets you plan to use. I've been using K&J and picked this set up and I've not been having any problems, it's also nice for drilling out gun barrels and the like thanks to the variety of sizes it has.

u/CornflakeJustice · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

I use this and this to cover my barrel sizes, start small adjust as needed, always start a pilot hole with an xacto or similar.

u/gwarsh41 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

> Acastus Knight Porphyrion

I'm not sure about that one. It's a mighty big model, but it's leg assembly seems to be more like a knight titan, than a cerestus or warhound. It doesn't have the inverted knee like the other knights do. No idea what cabin assembly is like either. The warhound cabin is a bunch of huge pieces, I don't know of anything that can prepare you for it. I used about 20 rubber bands while I was building, to make sure it all held together and looked good before gluing. There is a pic of my warhound WIP below, you can see how it's legs have 3 segments, making a forward joint, and reverse joint. Standard Knights and the porphyrion only have a forward, and Cerestus only have a reverse. The only non +warhound models I know of with similar 3 segment opposite joint style assembly are the decimator and I believe the kytan daemon engine.

For pinning big ass models, I still use paperclips. However instead of pinning straight across a joint, like you might on infantry, I go through the joint from the outside. You can see some paperclips under the warhounds foot. There is one in each toe that goes all the way through, so if the warhound wants to move, the pin must be pulled out. That is the only place I pinned the warhound though. I used big ass magnets on the head, torso, and arms so I could do this to transport it.

My knight titan has 3mm neodymium magnets in each arm. They are the same ones I use on marines, dreadnoughts and just about everything. They hold knight weaponry up decently, but some people prefer larger ones. You can get bulk magnets on ebay much cheaper than the hobby store, but if you don't want to wait, go to a hardware store, as they are still cheaper than hobby store.

I believe this dremel is the new version of the one I have. The flex shaft attachment makes life so much easier. A basic drill bit set is good for getting started, but make sure it has the same size as the magnets you use. I've started using jewelry bits for mine, and they are insane good. However the larger ones (1.5mm-3mm set) are difficult to use, as they cut more than bore. Just last night I couldn't keep a handle on the arm bit I was drilling, ended up flying across the room. On resin they are easier though. I bought a set of cutter bits from the hardware store. It was all spherical tip and tube tip of various sizes. It has been very useful for battle damage, and the tube tip is how I widen holes for giant ass magnets.

The real MVP of a dremel for hobby conversions and building has been the circular saw bits I got mine from a wood carving magazine, and they are paper thin. Not 100% about these ones, but they are great for precision cuts and removing chunks of resin.

u/Stasis_Detached · 2 pointsr/Warhammer
u/AnEpicPie · 1 pointr/Gunpla

wow thanks! and uh would this drill set work ? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302Z3/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and are there anything different with magnets found on amazon? i would prefer to order everything from amazon since i have a prime membership, if not no biggie just wondering.

u/giantrobotman · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Definitely magnets. Not just so that you can switch out weapon configurations to allow your units to adapt and change roles as you add more units to your army, but also to future-proof your collection.

GW likes to do things like make a certain weapon loadout stomp face in one codex, and then be mediocre in the next update. The most notable time that this happened to me, I had recently finished building four broods of tyranid termigants with fleshborers. 60 models. There was no other way to go in that codex; if you built your 'gants any other way, you were wasting points. The new 'dex came out, the weapons didn't work the same anymore, and you were a fool not to take devourers. That was a bad day.

Magnets don't take much time (I spend less time magnetizing parts than I do scraping mold lines), and they don't really take a substantial investment, either. Here are the tools I use: pin vice with different sized collets (in the handle), $9.95USD; Dremel bits to gradually increase the size of the hole, important to start with a guide hole and gradually work up to the size of your magnet, $6.21, 200x 3mmx1mm magnets, 4.01. For $20.17, you can make your units super versatile, and know that you won't have to buy a new squad if GW changes the rules.

Although you're new to the game, magnetizing is a cool skill set to have. You have a lot more latitude when you make army lists (especially important for players that are developing a feel for the game, army, or local metagame), you can make dual-purpose squads (need jump troops? Good thing there are magnets on those backpacks!), and you can keep GW from making you choose whether to buy 60 more 'gants or try to pry off all of their stupid little arms and replace them.

u/TheSecretIsWeed · 1 pointr/electronics

I use the following(links below). I've seen them all available at walmart for not too much more.
Using the drill press you wont break any bits, at least I havent. If you size your holes correctly the lack of copper in the middle of the hole will guide your drill bit automatically so you can be off center by a small amount. I've made about 40 boards all with a crapton of holes and still havent worn out my smallest drill "1/32" bit which I use constantly.

The smallest drill bit I've been able to find is 1/32 which works for chips that fit into a breadboard. I haven't found smaller but if you see something smaller get it because even 1/32 is a pretty big hole for the majority of leads. Its about 2x too big for most chip feet.


http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792230&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel+drill+bits


http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4486-MultiPro-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B0000302ZV/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792230&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel+drill+bits

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Workstation-Drill-Press-Holder/dp/B008F6HLS0/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792250&sr=1-4&keywords=dremel+drill+press

u/SophisticatedPeasant · 1 pointr/nvidia

What I was thinking about doing is superimposing the G10 plate over the intel bracket and making markings through the C holes.

I found this Dremel drill bit set on amazon.com, do you think any of these bits will be the correct size and do you think a Dremel tool has enough torque to drill through the Intel bracket?

Although costly (total outlay $30 for Dremel tool and bits) this approach would allow me to cut the corners and drill the Intel bracket.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3

Seriously though, you should fabricate these brackets and sell them for $30. People would buy them. You can purchase them in bulk from Corsair for $10-15, make a few holes, turn around and sell them for $25-30. You sell 2-3 a day that's some money for not a whole lot of work.

Adding the required shim and these would sell with the demand exceeding supply of the EVGA Hybrid kits.

Pay less for vastly superior performance (with x41, H100i)

EVGA wants $120 for their H55 rebrand.

$60 for an H55 and $25-30 for your kit that's a no brainer.

u/idosay · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I used these Dremel Drill bits on a regular drill to make the holes bigger on my IGO-L Cap. I didn't use the first one because it was the same size as the stock hole. I used the second one and tested after I cleaned it up. It wasn't enough for me so I went with the next size up, 1/16th I believe and that worked out for me. I've since used that bit to drill out an RSST and a mini DID clone.

u/gabbagabbawill · 1 pointr/banjo

I just installed 4 spikes on my banjo. Placed them at the A, B, C and D frets on the fifth string. I installed the spikes facing inward (opening towards the other strings). I used this set of drill bits to drill the holes to set the spikes in:

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3

I used the 1/32" (.03125") bit, which was very close to the diameter of the spikes, drilling the holes with the drill bit just touching the string and 3/8" back from the fret. I put a dab of Elmer's glue on the spike and inserted them with needle nose pliers. I used a .015 feeler gauge under the spike as I pressed them into place (no hammering). Then I masked off the fret board and filed the sharp edges away from the tops and sides of the RR spikes.

They work great, and only pull the string slightly sharp, but a quick retune is no big deal. I can still fret the string if I want to, barely being able to tell they are there.

It only took about 30 minutes. The longest part was the drilling, using a hand drill and being careful not to press to hard and break the tiny bit. Here are two links which helped me out:

http://www.deeringbanjos.com/blogs/faqs/10318861-how-to-install-spikes

http://zeppmusic.com/banjo/spikes.htm