Reddit Reddit reviews Duck Brand Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch, 286216

We found 44 Reddit comments about Duck Brand Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch, 286216. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Weatherproofing Window Insulation Kits
Weatherproofing Products
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Building Supplies
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Duck Brand Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch, 286216
Reduce your energy costs by insulating your windowsCrystal clear film heat shrinks to seal out drafts and coldContains 62 x 420" of crystal clear film and 1/2-inch by 168-feet (2016") roll of double-sided tapeHelps increase energy efficiency - Home Smart and Earth FriendlyKit insulates ten 3' x 5' windows
Check price on Amazon

44 Reddit comments about Duck Brand Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch, 286216:

u/PleaseGiveGold · 12 pointsr/chicago

> While I can keep teh heat at 68, its costing me $300 a month in gas bills to do so, so I'm asking if the landlord is responsible for maintaining a less leaky building.

Unfortunately, no.

Did they provide you with average utility bills? I believe this information is required (but if they didn't give it, and you didn't ask, you might be SOL). If they did, and they are drastically different, you might have a bit of an argument there. If you signed the lease and they told you the heat never costs more than $100 a month and it is costing you triple, you might be able to convince them to lower your rent.

>I already spent $150 on insulation material. The window film isnt cheap.

How many windows do you have? The film should be about a buck a window for largish windows If you have a huge 3br+ place with a ton of windows and exterior walls, $300 isn't actually a crazy gas bill.

If you can see light coming from the doors, there is more non-professional work you can do.

Finally, how long have you lived here? Are you sure you are paying actual bills and not some sort of estimated bill? Are you sure your gas/electric is actually metered to only your own unit? Wouldn't be the first time someone discovered that their gas bill was also paying for common area heating, or to heat the building's hot water or something.

u/red_beard_RL · 10 pointsr/answers

This is what we used last winter, the adhesive left no marks and didn't take any paint off - after you shrink it and trim it's barely noticeable

Duck Brand Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch, 281506 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fjj1Bb5B0EPM6

u/Kingofthegnome · 9 pointsr/astoria

Oh hell yeah. My apartment sits around 70 but my bedroom sits around 64. I put up window film and my room is now up to 70 with the rest of the apartment. I will put a link below for what you need. It is by far te best $7-$11 I spend all year.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch-281506/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521587453&sr=8-3&keywords=window+winter

u/magenta_mojo · 7 pointsr/Connecticut

Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GKC2GW/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and wrap all your windows with it. It will cut down on the draftiness. In my bedroom it made it about 3-4 degrees warmer on average.

Start thinking about another heating source, stat. We have oil for our house heat but oil is also really expensive; if left on full time we'd spend about $450 easy per month. Instead we have it set for sporadic times to turn on during the day to save money, and mostly we run our pellet stove. A decent one can be had for about $1000 and it'll run less than half the cost of using oil heat. We bought a pallet of pellets from Lowe's for $330 and we're only about halfway through the supply for this winter (but that's mainly cuz our pellet stove only heats half the house; we're getting another one installed on the other side).

In terms of costliness, it goes electric > oil > pellets/wood (but imo wood is messier, you have to stack it, keep it seasoned, and the fire needs constant feeding). Most pellet stoves have an auger/feeder which keeps the fire stoked constantly so you don't need to worry about it -- downside of that is it uses electric so if your power goes out, so does your pellet stove (wood stoves will run regardless).

Lastly, but imo most importantly -- INSULATE YOUR HOUSE. Insulate it well. It's worth paying good money to tightly seal and insulate it with the correct R value (here's a good link that tells you how much you need based on where you live: https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation_table)

We bought a house last year and didn't know till we were in it that it was very poorly insulated. R15 where there should be at least 23, all over the house. Some walls with zero insulation. You'd be shocked at how common this is. Most contractors and home builders cut corners everywhere they can, and since you can't see insulation behind the walls, they don't bother doing it properly. We are re-doing pretty much every wall in this house, room by room, to correctly insulate and we already feel a difference.

Ok time to get off my soapbox, hope some of this helped.

u/cognizantant · 7 pointsr/HomeImprovement

That's standard placement.

Relocating would be very costly and not useful. Instead, focus on improving the efficiency of your home. New windows and more insulation.

If new windows are too much $$$, look at window film.
A kit like this works for winter or summer:
Duck Brand 281506 Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/

u/Spacejockey9 · 6 pointsr/funny

You can get special kits for a couple of bucks on Amazon.

u/HugeRichard11 · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I assume something like this: Duck Brand Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch, 286216 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p0DVDb75HZMW

I put it on some really drafty windows and you can tell they work during the days with 30mph winds the plastic will start to creek as it's keeping the windy cold air out.

u/cybrshrk · 5 pointsr/Frugal
u/doubleplusunsigned · 5 pointsr/Ultralight

Polycryo is allegedly from the materials original usage as a window film insulation.

The second page of that thread suggests that Gossamer Gear made up the word.

However, there is no registration of either "polycro" nor "polycryo" in the USPTO Trademark System, which would indicate to me that it's a generic term for the material.

I also can't find any description of what specific material 3M or Duck uses.

u/ghostofhenryvii · 4 pointsr/howto

Seal it with something like this.

Then cover it with insulating curtains.

u/schmuckmulligan · 4 pointsr/Ultralight

Focusing on bang for buck:

  • Save yourself 4.5 oz with nylofume liner bags instead of the stuff sack. $2.50.

  • Save 4 oz. (ish) by replacing the Tyvek footprint with one made from 0.7 mil window film. $4. The tent itself is heavy, but if you're digging it, no sweat.

  • A pound and a half of weight savings could be had by going to a quilt. If you go this way, there are a lot worse than the Hammock Gear Economy Burrow -- you'll want a wide. $180 for a 30 degree (a bit of rating buffer is nice).

  • 7 oz. Replace those soccer pants with some dance pants. $17.95.

  • 12 oz.-ish. I'd dump outright the cotton long sleeve and sweater in exchange for a thrift store fleece. If your current sleeping bag is only good down to 40, you're probably not in cold enough temps where a puffy jacket becomes more important. $10.

  • 1 pound. Replace those pots and mugs and the like with IMUSA grease pots. The 0.7 quart (10 cm) and the 1.25 quart (12 cm) are probably going to be the best options. I'm spitballing the weight savings here, because I really think you can make do with less -- most of us roll with one pot/mug total, for everything. Try lids made out of tinfoil or a disposable aluminum pie tin. $10.

  • 4 oz. Replace that water bottle with a Smartwater bottle. $2.

  • 2 oz. Nitecore NU25 headlamp exists, but at $25, it's not the cheapest suggestion here.

  • 2 oz. First aid kit --just dig in and throw away redundant items. Focus on getting rid of any liquids or goops in there. Repackage into a sandwich-size Ziploc.

  • 6 oz. Dump the paracord. If you're using it for bear bagging, you might try some lightweight nylon string instead, which will usually weigh an oz for 50 feet. 1.75 mm Zing-It is a go to, but I've also just used light nylon utility string from the hardware store, without problems. $5 if you go with the cheap stuff.

  • 4 oz. Repackage that sunscreen! You probably only need an ounce, max, for most trips. An old prescription bottle can work nicely for this, as can one of those 5-Hour Energy bottles. $2.

    In total, I get 85 oz. (or 5.3 pounds!) weight savings for a total cost of around $250, or you can do 3.8 pounds for $70 (no new quilt) or even 3.7 pounds for $45 (scratch the headlamp suggestion).
u/wishiwasAyla · 3 pointsr/Frugal

i think your first step should be to try opening the curtains during the day so you can get some solar heat gain, and only closing them when the little one is sleeping. any heat gained during the day will help keep it warmer in there at night too. you can also look into using a window insulating film like this during the colder months to keep drafts out and keep the heat in.

as for a space heater, you could try to wall-mount one or put it on a high shelf so that it is well out of his reach. if there's a ceiling fan in the room, reverse it so it blows up and turn it on low to recirculate the heated air back down toward the floor.

as for having to close the door, is there a particular reason you want to keep kitty out?

u/BerryBerrySneaky · 2 pointsr/wichita

It would also be worth your while to find and fix the drafts you mentioned, inexpensively and without any permanent modifications to the property.
Outlet/switch insulators are cheap, easy to install, and effective.

If you feel cold air from the gaps between the wall and your window/door trim, stuff backer rod in the gaps. (It's similar to rolls of self-stick foam watherstripping, but doesn't have the "sticky". You can also cut it in half/quarter for smaller gaps.)

If the windows are drafty, install heat-shrink film kits on any you won't need to open (or adjust blinds on) over the winter. For windows you may need to open or that have thick blinds, use butyl "cord" weatherstripping. Squish it into the edges/corners of window frames/panes/etc. It's removable and is available in multiple colors.

(Source: I live in a 100+ year old house, with zero wall insulation and drafty original windows.)

u/kryptobs2000 · 2 pointsr/Frugal

This is what you want. This is probably what everyone should use. Maybe painters tape would work better, though I suspect it will fail soon enough too, but I tried using painters plastic drop cloth and duct tape, lots of it, and it started to peal off in about a week.

I'd personally prefer the dropcloth as it's slightly cheaper (~5$ for probably 15-20 windows, plus the cost of tape) and more importantly I like that it's translucent as opposed to transparent. The kit I linked essentially looks like nothing is there at all if done right, you definitely won't have a problem with light.

u/mandyvigilante · 2 pointsr/Frugal

I'm in a similar situation. Here's some of the stuff I'm doing:

I just bought a bunch of these - shrink film window insulators. I'm in a new apartment this winter and I'm in a colder climate than I'm used to, so hopefully they'll work. My brother uses them and he says they work really well. It makes sense that they would, since air is a great insulator. And buy insulating (or at least very thick) curtains. During the day when the sun is out, keep them open to get warmth in (on windows that are facing the sun), but at night shut them to keep out the cold.

Other than that, try to find out where in your house the warm air is escaping. I found out that my back door had about an inch-wide crack along the top that I stuffed with brown packing paper, which helped a lot. If there are any rooms you don't use that often, close them off as best as you can - seal off the window, shut the door and put a door runner along the bottom to keep all the cold air out and the warm air in. You want to be trying to heat as small of an area as possible.

You can also try to replicate a Japanese kotatsu if you have a low table and a heater that is low to the ground. I have a low coffee table I sit at, and I'm planning on getting a large blanket to imitate the general idea of a kotatsu with. The heater I use for my living room blows hot air out low to the ground, and a lot of it ends up under the coffee table anyway. I can sit at the table and keep my legs warm.

Also, as weird and lame as they are, I recommend a slanket. I know people make fun, but they're not at all the same as just having a bathrobe on backwards - they're much longer, much thicker, and they have hoods and pockets for your feet. You could try to make one but I don't think that would end up being more frugal, because the fabric would be expensive. The one I have is a godsend, especially since I do a lot of work from home and it keeps me warm while I'm on my computer.

Finally, drink a lot of warm drinks. Always have a hot cup of coffee or tea in your hand. It will warm up your hands and your body. I think that the logic behind the "warm drinks actually make you colder" thing is that they make you sweat, but if you're cold enough that you aren't sweating at all from drinking them, you're retaining most of the heat. And get enough food! Your body burns calories to keep you warm, so this is not the time to restrict yourself.

u/zorkmids · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

Agreed. Lots of folks use polycro as an ultralight ground sheet, which is cheap because it's also used for window shrink film insulation

u/cahutchins · 2 pointsr/needadvice

That first picture is an electric baseboard heater, so yes using it would come out of your electric bill. Some baseboard heaters just have a manual on/off switch or knob somewhere, others are controlled by thermostat.

A lot of cold-climate houses have baseboard heaters in addition to forced air or radiant heat, but it's possible that the baseboard is your only source of heat.

Do you see any vents in the apartment like this, in the floors or walls? If so, that means there's a gas furnace somewhere, probably in the basement, pumping hot air through the house. A studio apartment might not have its own thermostat, the temperature would be controlled somewhere else in the building.

That tank in your second and third pictures is a hot water heater, for your shower and sink and washing machine. I can't tell for sure if it's gas or electric. If it's gas, it would have an exhaust vent on top. If it's electric, it would only have a water-in, water-out, and a wall plug.

You can improve your energy efficiency quite a bit by putting plastic on your windows, something like this will make a big difference in the winter.

u/LifeIsTheFuture · 2 pointsr/TrollXChromosomes

These things work really well and are available at most hardware stores. All you need is a hair dryer.

u/Tragic_fall · 2 pointsr/malelivingspace

I just want to point out that if a space heater overloads the electrical circuit, any electrical heat source would do the same. An electric blanket alone probably wouldn't, but I see people listing a bunch of warm things, which would trip the breaker if all used together to replace a space heater.

Your best option is to keep as much heat as possible from leaving the room, and work on heating the smallest area possible (your bed, most likely). The more you can confine the heat, the less you will actually need to generate.

Seal up all the drafts, and insulate. Drafy buildings in New England often use window film to create an air barrier, and it makes a big difference. Heavy curtains are popular as well.

I like my bedroom cold when I sleep, so I don't turn the heat on. I have two blankets and a thick down comforter, and it is amazing. I would try combining some window film, heavy curtains, electric blanket, and big heavy down comforter, and see how you like that.

u/midnitewarrior · 2 pointsr/Frugal

You need to understand why your windows are drafty.

There's typically 3 reasons --

  • Air leaks - the window is not air tight

    The first is the one you are probably aware of, if the windows have unfilled cracks, don't close tightly, then you are going to have air blowing in on you. You need to make the window air-tight for this problem. This is fixed with weather stripping and better fitting windows. As you are in an apartment, you can't fix the windows, but consider weather stripping. Alternatively, you can put heat-reactive shrink wrap over your entire window frame. Attach the film as tightly as you can so it floats above the glass, then use a hair dryer to make it shrink.

  • Heat loss through window - uninsulated glass

    For this, put your hand about an inch away from the glass. If your hand gets cold, your window is poorly insulated. If you don't care about looks, and your apartment complex doesn't care about looks, and you don't need light in that window, get some EPS foam boards (Expanded Polystyrene - "styrofoam"). Find some of this scrap from big box stores or elsewhere, it's often used as a packing material. You can buy it too, but it may not be cheap. A half-inch of the stuff would be great, cut it to the size of the window. EPS makes a great insulator. Alternatively, bubble wrap, probably cheaper and lets light in.

  • Convective currents

    This is something you may not be aware of. Cold air sinks. Hot air floats. Imagine an empty room that has one window in it. Unimpeded, the hot air in the room will rise to the top. The air near the window will get cooled by the window, and sink to the bottom of the room. This creates a circular air current from above the window to the floor, across the bottom of the room, getting heated by the ambient heat of the room, then rising to the top again. This can make a mini-vortex that cools the room quickly and creates a draft. Older homes would combat this with drapes and radiators directly below the windows. The heat of the radiator would counter the convective current. This is also why your window has a sill. Drapes can stop the convective current effect. While drapes may not be very insulating, they block the flow of air and kill the convective current. A similar effect can be done with the heat-reactive shrink wrap.

u/DistractedToast · 2 pointsr/Ultralight
  • ($160) MLD Monk Tarp in DCF + ground sheet (assuming you use trekking poles, and assuming on your duo trips your partner has their own shelter
  • ($410) Katabatic Palisade
  • ($160 when in stock) Gossamer Gear Kumo

    These are my suggestions. This is an awesome setup and will save you some change for other gear when you realize that you need it!

    Could dump more money into a larger tarp or other shelter if you need to provide shelter for you and a partner.
u/imnotminkus · 2 pointsr/Frugal

Duck Brand is $1 less for twice the plastic.

u/riverine17 · 2 pointsr/Michigan

It comes in a kit and it's not expensive.

Along the same lines as this, get something to block the bottom of the doors leading outside, there can be a pretty decent draft underneath that can be eliminated. Ceiling fans too, if you've got them, make sure they are reversed.

Edit: Here's a guide to how they should rotate..

>During winter heating, to help move warm air that is trapped on the ceiling, blades should turn 'forward' in a clockwise motion. This movement will push up the air and pull the warm trapped air down the sides of the room improving heat distribution.

>During hot summer weather, to help produce a comfortable breeze or 'windchill' that cools the skin, blades should rotate in a 'reverse' counter-clockwise motion. The air movement has the same comfortable effect as when you fan yourself with a magazine to get relief from hot, stifling air.


u/MacDaddyT · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

I believe this is the wrap he is referring to. Is that the one that is 40$ for you?

Polycro is objectively more fragile than Tyvek. It It really a matter of opinion regarding its weight-to-function ratio.
Pros:

  • MUCH lighter

  • More packable

  • Cheap (maybe not quite as cheap as Tyvek)

  • Easily resizable

    Cons:

  • So light that the wind bitch-slaps it around

  • More fragile, but will/can last a thru hike with care

  • Slightly less available than Tyvek.


    I used Tyvek for the PCT because it was more reliable to continuously cowboy camp on. It kept my Xlite from ever popping, but that's not to say that polycro would have done the same!

    YMMV
u/xrobin · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

Here you go

Edit: just changed the link since the 10 window is twice as much and a buck cheaper

u/nept_r · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

Anyone here wanna share some links or info on the material they use? I have used ducks brand window insulation that seemed alright, but I'd like to get some other input. I think I used this. Made a large tarp tent using a very basic rectangular shape. I left it out in the sun to preshrink it so it wouldn't shrink out in the field.

u/jaminz · 1 pointr/DIY

I have single-paned windows in my apartment, which leads to some pretty heavy condensation during the winter. The condensation then drips down onto the windowsill, and forms a few small puddles.

Any tips on how to alleviate this? I was thinking of buying a dehumidifier and using some window insulation - something like this

Thoughts/advice?

u/VapidDelight · 1 pointr/TrollXChromosomes

Get weather strip tape and tape all the gaps on your windows. Then cover the entire windows with window film. This will cut down on drafts and make your apartment warmer.

u/autarky1 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I know everyone here likes to DIY stuff but if you can get an installer in, you can replace those windows with new vinyl ones for <$700 each (at least in my city) and you might get a rebate from your electric company. Those windows look like they're pretty old and single pane.

If thats too much, you can also buy a window insulation kit for $10 to seal up the air gaps. That'll probably be way easier than trying to repair the damage.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494374413&sr=8-1&keywords=window+insulation+kit

u/chizzle91 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Brace yourself.

Because screw drafty windows.

Also, I saw you're in Indiana. Obviously I'm not expecting your home address or anything, but can you say where in Indiana? We're originally from Jeffersonville/New Albany/Clarksville, wondering if it's near there at all.

u/unkyduck · 1 pointr/howto

That's the stuff. The whole kit is here. The heat-shrink plastic eliminates wrinkles and renders the fix invisible.

u/xisonc · 1 pointr/cornsnakes

Without knowing your house or how its heated I'm not sure about heating your whole room.

There are ceramic electric space heaters that work pretty good, but can suck back electricity and may not heat the whole room.

It regularly gets as low as -45°C here in the winter, so I know what you mean, but my house has a forced air furnace that keeps the whole house reasonably warm.

Edit: does your room have a window? Maybe try one of these https://www.amazon.com/Duck-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch-281506/dp/B002GKC2GW

u/montereyo · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Mine last a few years. I always recommend the website ZenniOptical.com for glasses; they're fantastic (and no, they don't pay me to say that). It gives me peace of mind to have a pair or two of cheap backup glasses floating around in case I break a pair.

u/meat_tunnel · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Yep. I have to use them every year because the windows are ~30 years old with aluminum frames. Get the Duck brand: https://smile.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1510673743&sr=1-1&keywords=window+plastic

Home Depot sells a different brand that's already pre-cut and doesn't really work if you're trying to apply it to large windows.

u/djshack88 · 1 pointr/boston

It's not cold in Boston, but it will be cold in Boston. You're going to love January and February.

Also, you need to get window plastic. I live in an old Somerville house with old wooden drafty windows. The plastic and the putty/clay are key. See:

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW/
http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-B2-Caulking-19-ounce/dp/B000LNODSQ/

u/Imsuem · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

I if you have drafty windows, it might be worth the money to get some window insulation kits. They are plastic that you cut to size to put over your window. First. You out some two-sided tape around the window frame and then you stick the plastic sheet on, then carefully blast it with a handheld dryer (careful not to get too close or you'll melt a hole in the plastic). In the spring when warm weather returns, pull the tape and plastic off. Here's one but there are lots out there..
Duck Brand 281506 Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_qW1HybQG6R7HM

u/urbanplowboy · 1 pointr/DIY

Well, 8 lbs is a much larger piece of plexi than I was imagining. Could you use a thinner/lighter piece?

On second thought, though, perhaps just using some window shrink film would work better. It seals air/water tight, can be easily removed and is cheap. Here's an installation video. It would probably look a lot better than plexiglass, too.

u/askredant · 0 pointsr/Ultralight

I got this idea from this sub. Instead of using a tent footprint, tyvek, or buying "polycro" I use window insulation for my ground sheet.

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW?ie=UTF8&keywords=window%20insulation&qid=1463877275&ref_=sr_1_1&s=hi&sr=1-1