Reddit reviews Dynamat 10007 Dyna-Roller Professional Heavy Duty Sound Deadener Installation Tool with Wood Handle and 2" Wide Rubber Roller

No problem.

As far as the sound dampening is concerned, well, yes and no. Here's a few options you have in regards to the doors:

• The most effective, yet time consuming and difficult route is to line to door frame itself in the sound deadening. When you remove the door cards, you'll notice the metal door frame itself is covered in a grey foam sheet of sorts, so in order to seal up the door frame, you'll have to remove it, which is a fairly simple process, as I believe it is held in with 6 or so speed clips (don't take my word on this). Afterwords, simply roll up the window and proceed stuffing. However, if you go the dynamat route, you'll want to buy a proper roller to help lay the sheets against the door, both on the frame against which the door card resrs, and on the inside of the door frame (a bit of a finicky process, patience is key).
  
  
• Alternatively, another, simpler option is to simply apply the dynamat/whatever to the inside of the door card itself, you can save yourself the headache and achieve a very similar result, you will be amazed at how much road noise this kills. Naturally, you can also do this alongside with sealing the door frame, but keep in mind how many sheets of dynamat you'll need to purchase. For the door cards alone, a single pack of dynamat door kit should suffice. However, you'll want to purchase a pair if you want to cover both the door cards and frames.
  
  
• Lastly, you'll want to kill the noise that the door card makes as a result of rubbing against its door frame. This is a pretty simple step, you'll just need about 12 feet of weather stripping for the two front doors, run it along the edges of the card that make contact with the door frame. I'd honestly advice to door this all around on all 4 doors, will make a massive improvement towards killing the squeaks and rattles.
  
  Whatever route you choose to take, a roller and some dynamat tape will come in handy. You'll want to use the dynamat tape I linked you to to completely cover the speaker surround, to prevent leakage. Lastly, I strongly suggest checking out speaker baffles. They're cheap, and incredibly efficient at projecting sound forwards into the cabin, so you lose no sound into the door panel, and they also further help seal off sound leakage.
  
  Edit: To address the possible subwoofer, something worth checking out are self-contained, self-powered subs, particularly Infinity's Basslink. Self powered subs are small, efficient, and easy as hell to install and use, no boxes to buy/build, no amp to mess with, the list goes on. In the case of the Infinity Basslink, it will fit nicely under the drivers/passenger seat, and is a breeze to wire up, just run speaker wire to the trunk amp and splice that sucker in with the 6x9 leads, which get a full-pass frequency signal from the DIN (headunit). Having experience with one before, the sound is pleasingly tight, not at all boomy and 'loose' sounding such as the case with larger subs in ported boxes.