Reddit reviews Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker
We found 68 Reddit comments about Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Innovative Silicone Nozzle allows closer placement to soldering iron tip (therefore better suction & better solder removal)Compact design allows easy one handed operationWithstands direct contact with soldering iron (350C Max)Highest quality construction & components used
The Engineer SS-02 changed my life.
Awesome solder sucker. I swear by that thing!
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4
that one is great. I've desoldered complete boards with it.
this pump is great
I had the cheap one, and this one blows it out of the water
Build Log 5: Viterbi
Highlights
Parts List
Resources
Tools
Notes
Yes, this is the right place! Here's a few things to help you.
The only tip I have is use your solder sucker in your strong hand and the iron in your other. I have much better hand control with my right, so I can more accurately place the solder sucker to take it out in one or two tries. Oh, and easy on the caffeine! You don't want shaky hands while doing this.
"Build log" (mostly pictures) is in the imgur album.
This started off as a stock WASD V2 with Cherry MX Clear switches. I bought a 55g uniform RealForce not long after, and that has been my daily driver pretty much ever since. I actually thought I might just sell the WASD for whatever I could get for it.
I decided instead to go for the ergo clear mod, which sounds absolutely fantastic on the videos I've seen here, here, and others on YouTube. I also decided that while I had the case all apart I would add dampening foam to it and paint it to go with the SA carbon I just received.
Paint and clear coat for the case were from the local hardware store. I found the dampening foam on Amazon. I also picked up a Hakko tip cleaner and Engineer solder sucker from Amazon. The 62g gold springs and lubes are from Mehkee. They were out of their kits, but the lubes that are in the kit are all sold separately on their site, so no problemo.
The whole thing took about a week, give or take, and it was very tedious, to say the least. But the outcome has been simply spectacular. The ergo clears are so buttery smooth, and they sound awesome with SA doubleshot caps. I think the case color came out great. The WASD is now feeling a whole lot more premium!
Edit: this video was super helpful for the case painting.
Edit: here is the “before” post - https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/76s7rx/is_it_worth_it_to_do_the_ergo_clear_mod_on_a_wasd/?st=JFBLDQYL&sh=a9f5b0f2
I actually had put this up on mechmarket last week before I decided I wanted to keep the case but change out the switches. I originally had BOX Burnt Oranges in here, which I found to be too heavy, so I desoldered them and put in 67g Zealios—MUCH better. The process was actually pretty painless due to this solder sucker—HIGHLY recommended. The PCB is a DZ60, and the case is from Shenzhen YMD (I believe he is sold out at the moment). The stabs are genuine cherry, of course, and have been clipped and lubed. Keycaps are GMK Muted. The low profile case works great with cherry profile keycaps.
Got a soldering iron for Christmas and dove right in. This is my third 60% build, and by far my favorite.
Parts
Tools
I'm still tweaking my QMK keymap, but will contribute it to the repo once I get it to a good spot.
Be really careful. Don't rip the switches out if they don't come out. Just keep trying to remove the solder successfully without burning any pads or damaging any traces. Not being careful is how I managed to screw up my Poseidon Z. (funnily enough I tried installing the same switches)
If you don't mind spending extra money, I really recommend the Engineer SS-02 solder sucker. It has a silicone tip that allows you to get right up against the soldering iron to suck up as much solder as possible.
I used this one from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=desolder+pump&qid=1567697886&s=gateway&sr=8-6
make sure to clean it periodically and make sure the nozzle sits flush. otherwise look into this one https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4
Oh wow, MX black switches are usually not very tight fitting with caps either. MX clear switches are the ones that are notorious for this! Sorry this happened to you OP. This isn't the greateast video showing how to de-solder switches but should give you a decent ideal of what you'll need to do. The only tools you'll really need are a sodapullt, some solder wick, & a decent temp controlled soldering station. Well, TBH you could get away with a cheaper soldering iron if all you plan on ever using it for is replacing these few switches. Although I will say cheap soldering irons with no temp. control are much easier to damage the PCB or pads with.
ChipQwik - use it like solder. It mixes with the solder and lowers its melting point, making it stay molten longer. This is good for desoldering tiny things.
Flux pen - flux is a liquid that helps guide the solder. Any youtube video about soldering can provide an explanation.
Solder sucker - melt the solder, suck it up
Solder wick - melt the solder, soak it up.
You don't need to get these exact products, but they're all handy. You can get by without the chipqwik, but the rest should be in every soldering toolkit. Also remember that solder will like to move towards the soldering iron, so you can kind of use it to pick up any excess solder if you do it right.
I should note that I've never done a usb port before, so I can't guide you on exactly how to do it. I'm a bit of a newb myself. Just devour a few youtube tutorials, and try it. Soldering is really a skill learned by doing, and like I said, you have nothing to lose at this point. No point in being afraid to fail now.
For sure. I've made my fair share of desoldering mistakes and they aren't fun. First tip, find a tool you like, some swear by wick, and some use desoldering irons, for me it was simply this desoldering pumpwhich features a silicone tip that makes it easier to create a seal. Second, don't leave the iron on the PCB for too long. Three seconds should do it. If its doesn't, take it off, find another angle, and put it down again. Leaving it on for much longer risks damaging the PCB. Third, make sure you get ALL the solder off the pin, if it looks like you got 90% save for a tiny bit touching the edge, DO NOT try to forcibly remove the switch, you risk yanking out the small metal ringlet within each hole of the PCB. Instead, reapply some solder and try sucking it up again. When a switch is properly desoldered, it should pop right out when you squeeze in the little clips on the top and bottom of the switch. Never apply tremendous force when trying to remove a switch (this usually means you haven't fully desoldered).
And finally, if you do make a mistake, it's not the end of the world. A broken switch is easy enough to replace and a damaged PCB is possible to repair just by running a wire (which means soldering a connection between the two points that were disconnected by the damage).
It really sucks.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the best one I've ever owned.
On the cheap ones, I do remove the iron before activating the suction. If you have a lot of desoldering to do, this one doesn’t require you to remove the tip and does a much better job.
Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Easier and probably cheaper to replace the board. You can get a [Masterkeys Pro L RGB with blues for $120] (https://www.amazon.com/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01D3BDNF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486493487&sr=8-1&keywords=masterkeys%2Bpro%2Bl&th=1) or the Pro S TKL for $100.
Your other option is to buy a soldering iron, a desoldering pump, some switches to replace your browns, pray to whatever deity you believe in so that you don't damage the pcb when you remove the old switches. You'd also need to desolder the LEDs and resolder them once you have replaced the switches. IF your soldering skills aren't up to snuff you can damage the board beyond repair.
Do not get a cheap radioshack soldering iron. Get a cheap Chinese soldering iron off amazon. Something with a digital temp gauge. I’ll edit this comment with a link to the one I have later. Their are a couple different methods to this job. Some people get little angled clippers and clip the 4 legs off of the tact switch and then heat up the solder and pull out the legs this method is easy but you risk cutting into the board. The other method is to properly use a solder sucker / solder wick and desolder the old switches. Do not hold the soldering iron to this board for too long you will pull traces. Believe me I did it my first time. Soldering is not that difficult but with everything the more you practice the better you become. I think some early mistakes are using too much solder, you really don’t need a lot.
My soldering set up: Soldering iron
better solder tip cleaner
better solder sucker
better solder (reccomended)
Also if you’re soldering leaded solder indoors maybe think about your health and what you’re inhaling.
air filter
Last words: everything in that kit will get you by just fine. Personally I think the solder it comes with is garbage. I hate the cheap solder suckers and I use them so often I bought that other one. Keep your iron tips clean. This means basically run some solder on the tip and dunk it in that gold wire mesh often. If your tip is getting dark it’s getting too hot and will have a harder time flowing solder. Keep it nice and shiny.
+1 for this.
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1485890789&sr=1-1&keywords=Engineer+SS02
*pout* That kit has now officially dropped in price about 60% since I purchased mine just under two years ago. :-(
It's a freakin' awesome soldering station though!
Next on my list is the FR-300 or -301 desoldering gun. For now though, I'll continue to use my Engineer SS-02.
Like others have said, unfortunately, yeah it's dead, but don't let that get you down! My first desoldered job, I did some serious butchery to the board. Luckily I was able to fix it so that it's functional, but it ain't pretty. But now I have no problems with desoldering. Like /u/anthonyooiszewen said, it could have been a few things. Definitely make sure you use a good leaded solder. I, personally, like this stuff. Next, definitely make sure you have a soldering iron with temperature control, and DO NOT RUN IT TOO HOT. Lastly, do yourself a favor, and get one of these.
I own this kit and it works great! Solder sucker wasn't too good so I got [this]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to go with it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002MJMXD4/ has gotten very good reviews but is $20 more expensive. Adafruit also recommends and sells it. Personally I’m having a hard time resisting getting a vacuum desoldering station.
Also available on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a bit more, but hey guaranteed shipping timeframe so it's worth it to me. Thanks for the tip, I've been using wick and about to do a 104 key, let's hope this baby lasts through that.
I had to go out to the garage and look, that's the same company, but not the right model. Mine is a little different than what Adafruit sells. It's an SS-02. I really love it.
Using solder wick on through-holes is terrible. I use this solder sucker. It's a bit on the pricey side, but the silicone rubber tip gives it surprising suction despite being small enough to operate one-handed. I used to use this, which is cheap but... cheap. It broke after a while. Worked well enough before then, though.
I got this kit. [Vastar Full Set 60W 110V Soldering Iron Kit] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=CM_SW_R_CP_APA_ZV6IZBDB771M1)
I ended up getting a few other things and a better solder sucker after a few jobs.
[Hakko 599B-02 Solder Tip Cleaning Wire and Holder] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPGDLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9Y6IzbHX1H6MD)
[Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=CM_SW_R_CP_APA_W06IZBVBPKVMP)
The sucker was totally worth the extra cost.
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1481945597&sr=1-5&keywords=solder+sucker
Simply the best.
Honestly I got a cheap one like that and I hated it, it was a nightmare. Someone recommended I get the Engineer instead and it was night and day:
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481839367&sr=8-1&keywords=engineer+solder
Three times the price, but worth every penny. If you do not intend on doing a lot of desoldering, then it's probably not worth the extra investment.
Buy this and it'll be just about as easy taking them out as putting them in, once you've got the hang of it. I had it down using the cheapo one that cheap soldering kits come with but I actually enjoy desoldering with this one.
/u/emenelopee Sick board btw!
Depends on your budget. The best solder sucker that I've found is this. It's more expensive, but works much better than the few other common ones that I've tried.
For soldering irons I've seen a number of recommendations for the TS100 (and similar models). There is also the classic choice of the Hakko F-888D (which is what I have). You should pick something appropriate for your budget.
Here's every desoldering tool I've used so far, from worst to best:
I initially got one similar to that and it’s junk. Get this one instead. It pulls a much stronger vacuum than those plastic ones and the replaceable silicone tip lets you get right onto the work without melting anything.
Some will recommend the Engineer SS-02. I prefer the Soldapullt.
There's also this, but I haven't tried it myself. It's apparently good too.
I would buy some decent soldering wick just in case, for those stubborn pads. 99% of the time you won't need it in my experience though, given how big switch holes are.
I heard the engineer desoldering pump was pretty nice for desoldering LEDs.
AmazonSmile Link 1: Tabiger Solder Wick & Desoldering Pump, Solder Sucker & Desoldering Wick, 2pcs Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length)- Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Remover
AmazonSmile Link 2: Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker
^Use AmazonSmile to donate 0.5% of your purchase price to a charity of your choice at no extra cost to you.
To remove the switches?
You'll have to use a Desoldering Tool/Solder Sucker such as this one
Go for it!
I used:
Honestly the most important thing IMO is having a good solder sucker. The Engineer is pretty good. I've broken a few cheap ones and it's pretty annoying to be half-way through a project and have it break.
The Masterkeys Pro is a pretty straight forward keyboard. Fairly standard key sizes, easy to take a part (especially with a spudger). The solder they use is a pain to remove though. Just take your time and be careful not to damage the PCB like I did.
Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker, got it off Amazon for $26.50 shipped.
Bought this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1_1_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1
I use the Hakko FX888D:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWUFVY8/
And this solder sucker:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/
I heat up the solder and suck it up with the solder sucker one pin at a time.
I do not know if he got you the links but here they are all on Amazon. The funniest thing is that I have it all ready for when I get enough money for this and the Hakko FX-888D.
Solder is the Kester 44
Solder sucker
Desoldering wick
Hakko cleaning tip wire station
This is what I rock.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 loving it hard!
I have that exact set, and it's great for soldering. For desoldering, I wasn't a huge fan of the pump or a separate solder wick I tried. This seems like a far superior version of a desoldering pump, mainly for the silicone tip to keep a tighter vacuum seal.
I like to add patients lots of patients! I desoldered 2 switches recently. I found the best advice one can give is take your time and don't apply to much heat for to long. Also buy a decent solder sucker otherwise, be prepared to hate life. Personally I have this one https://www.amazon.com/Tabiger-Solder-Desoldering-Sucker-Remover/dp/B0777LMVTT/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526775806&sr=1-4&keywords=Solder+sucker and its a step up from the one included with my 25 dollar kit. I have heard this one is amazing. I have thought about investing in it https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526775806&sr=1-6&keywords=Solder+sucker
To everyone having a hard time with desoldering: buy one of these or if you really want to get the slightly more expensive version
Yeah I have this but it would still be a lot of effort as you said. I really want to try out V2 Zealios so I might just buy a 60% PCB and some lube. Now that I think about it, maybe I should just get a hotswap pcb hmmm
Quick de-soldering question:
Using this fancy-feelin' Japanese solder sucker and every time I get a good suck, the the solder jams in the silicon tubing and I have to put my iron down and fish it out with a screwdriver. Is there some technique I can employ to get it out with one hand?
there are about 5-6 other components that I could still replace in the horizontal linearity circuit and I will probably do this. I do think it will solve the issue but I will likely try because of how much effort and money I have invested into this set. I love the set other than the geometry problems and the geometry issue isn't really that noticeable in 3D games. I don't notice it at all when playing Super Mario 64 and N64 looks great on the JVC D201 set. Also, keep in mind that when you are dealing with geometry issues, you only need to focus on the horizontal and vertical linearity circuits which contain 20-30 aluminum electrolytic capacitors combined. Replacing capacitors isn't hard at all with the right tools. I did make sure to watch a ton of videos on how to solder and desolder and I bought my tools based on recommendations in Youtube videos and on several electronics forums.
 
I use this soldering iron and it works great, https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hakko+soldering+iron&qid=1556333443&s=gateway&sr=8-3
 
I use this solder sucker and it is also great. You just have to make sure to push out the old solder with the pump after every 1-2 connections, https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=engineer+solder+sucker&qid=1556333566&s=gateway&sr=8-3
 
I recommend have a desoldering wick as backup as well. Use a no-clean solder wick of 2.0mm for general desoldering. As far as flux, flux paste is easier to use as it doesn't drip. The AMTECH NC-559-V2-TF no-clean tacky solder flux is good. Any no clean liquid flux from Kester or MG Chemicals will work fine as well. Definitely get some wire cutters for cutting solder and cutting component leads.
 
I use this solder (I recommend lead solder with a rosin core and also no clean) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Any time you work on a CRT, you need to discharge the anode cap. This is very easy to do with the proper tools. For example, you could use a flat head screwdriver and an alligator clip wire to do this. You connect one end to the screw driver, the other end to a ground point on the CRT chassis (i.e. the metal frame around the CRT), slide the screwdriver under the rubber anode cap with the CRT unplugged until you hit the metal connector in the metal. Rub the screwdriver on this metal connector for about 5 seconds and it will be discharged. Retrotech on Youtube has a video on how to do this. I wouldn't say you need $80 electrical gloves to do this but at least wear a rubber or leather glove or both and only use one hand. Retrotech actually has quite a few videos on how to work on CRTs.
 
Overall, doing basic things like replacing capacitors in CRTs isn't that hard, you just have to spend the time to educate yourself, be patient and it will click. If you have any questions, just ask me or anyone else on here. If you ever work on any power circuit capacitors, make sure to discharge them with a high wattage and ohm rated resistor but using insulated pliers to hold the resistor legs to the capacitor legs for about 5 seconds to discharge the cap before you remove it.
I would recommend starting with a macro pad. They're cheap, so it's better to mess one of them up rather than your nice keyboard. Plus, you get a functional macro pad when you're done.
I use this iron:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC
And these solder suckers:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K72SBWY/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/
Here are some macro pads, if you're interested:
https://spacecat.design/products/launch-pad
https://spacecat.design/products/soyuz-number-pad-kit
https://keeb.io/products/chocopad-16-key-macropad-for-kailh-choc-low-profile-switches?variant=5603172220958
https://www.1upkeyboards.com/shop/keyboard-kits/sweet16-macro-pad-white/
http://www.maxkeyboard.com/max-falcon-8-rgb-programmable-mini-macropad-mechanical-keyboard-diy-kit.html
FR301 would make it easier. It's expensive though.
SS-02 may also be easier than a cheap solder sucker, it would be the same process though
I think I have to pay about $30 shipping to send it back they have some sort of weird me to turn policy then I'll have to read over before sending it. I sent them an email with the video attached and they told me they will send it over to the supplier so they can review the video. It's been almost a week and I haven't heard anything back yet sometimes I think they like to run down the clock so that your return window of time draws to an end.
Ideally I would just buy a real 110v for around $150 Canadian. I'm gonna take a it now, because I'm not gonna get my money back for the de- soldering gun I can't really resell it because shipping would wont make it worth it. I can spend $50 and buy a better step-up/down voltage converter i guess. But i was trying to save some cash. I paid $90 Canadian for the de soldering gun. If I buy voltage converter it's going cost $140 do which is ultimately the price i was trying to avoid in the first place. Plus it will add another box on my bench for example this one. plus I barely will ever will use this thing for anything other than the disordering iron.
​
I'm open to any suggestions. has anyone used an inexpensive compact 150 W step-up-transformer?. Should I just throw this disordering gun in the garbage ? and move on. I feel like if i spend $50 dollars on a disordering tool it might as well be this one Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker ?
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=CM_SW_R_CP_APA_ZV6IZBDB771M1
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPGDLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9Y6IzbHX1H6MD
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=CM_SW_R_CP_APA_W06IZBVBPKVMP
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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
Desoldering is miserable. If you want to make it slightly less awful though, you should invest in a good solder sucker.
Just bought this one. :(
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492374703&sr=8-1&keywords=engineer+solder
Are tips readily available? As on my desoldering station, the tips die pretty quick - I imagine that will happen with this too. I stopped using electric ones and stations - This is the best desoldering tool https://www.amazon.co.uk/innovative-silicone-Japanese-quality-engineer/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492409686&sr=8-1&keywords=engineer+ss-02 bar none, I've bought pretty much all of them. Edsyn, hakko station, hakko clones etc. etc. etc.
I just received this one from Amazon today: Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It’s an upgrade from an older less functional one I had. The new one has a silicone tip so it is heat resistant. The old one was too large and unwieldy and had a plastic tip.
ok, that is pretty awesome. yeah, i was gonna say that they are able to be swapped out, and learning to solder and desolder if you don't know how to can actually be a lot of fun. if you have the money for a decent iron and desoldering pump, i'd highly recommend trying it. look for pumps like this, if you do this brand, even better. there are so, so many resources for how to do these things just by searching on the subreddit and carefully going through the wiki, it's how i've learned a lot.
Are those cheap vacuum ones any good?
I've been eyeing the Engineer SS-02
Soldering Station
Solder Sucker
Just these two tools (and solder of course but I already had that laying around), a Phillips head screwdriver (to unscrew the PCB from the case), and a small flat head screwdriver (to pop the old switches out of the plate). I highly doubt you’ll break something though. Soldering/desoldering isn’t that difficult and as long as you’re careful about it you won’t mess anything up.
I also have a custom planned for my first GMK set coming at the beginning of next year! Gonna throw some 67g Zealios or Zilents in it (haven’t decided yet).
Nice. Yeah might just get the J-Spacers since finding o-rings is a hassle here in the UK. Out of curiosity, does the greens have a more pronounced bump or is it just heavier? I would assume the latter since the stem is similar to blues right?
Nothing too fancy -- a decent adjustable soldering iron and a high quality desoldering pump. (This part is important because the cheaper ones screwed me over the first time I desoldered). Here's what I'm talking about. For this next project I'm probably gonna invest in a stand since doing it while laying it flat kinda sucks for my neck after some time but I'll see how it goes.
yeah the one i have isn't so good. So i'm thinking of getting this guy
solder sucker
No way to say about the Pro Micro unless tested
This is the solder I like MG Chemicals 63/37 No Clean Leaded Solder, 0.032" Diameter, 1/2 lbs Spool
These are the sockets uxcell 20 x 24 Pin DIP IC Sockets Adapters Solder Type Socket
Have fun!
My WhiteFox recently started getting chatter on the R and the 2 keys, so from what I've read it seems like I need to desolder the switches and put new ones in? So for desoldering, do the Engineer SS-02 and this desoldering braid seem good, or is anything else someone might recommend for desoldering?
Also wondering for putting the new switches in, if there's any specific size or type of solder I should get?Thanks!
edit: figured out the solder, but what would be a good flux? what are the different types for and why is flux important?
I use the Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker. It's definitely not as good as a proper desoldering station with a vacuum pump and all but it's probably the best of the spring loaded bunch. The tip is regular silicone tube that you can buy anywhere and cut to your preference. It also comes with about two inches of the same tube so you don't need to go shopping right away (you'll need about 5mm of tube to make one nozzle for it)