Reddit Reddit reviews Engineers Precision Crimping Pliers Pa-09

We found 20 Reddit comments about Engineers Precision Crimping Pliers Pa-09. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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20 Reddit comments about Engineers Precision Crimping Pliers Pa-09:

u/Enlightenment777 · 12 pointsr/electronics

The Engineer PA-09 is one of the best "small pin" crimping tools for hobbyists. They aren't dirt cheap, but they are worth $40-$50 price, which is cheap compared to official tools from connector manufacturers. I own a PA-09 and highly recommend it. If you never crimp the smallest pins, then a PA-20 or PA-21 might be better for you.

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Info about each crimp tool:

u/cworthdynamics · 5 pointsr/makerbot

1 - could be the extruder mechanism. I would replace the stock with something like this:
2 - could be clogged
3 - Yes - sounds like it could be the harness. The 2/2X have a stupid design where x- axis wire is held in place by metal pin, that or the flexing makes it go bad. Try wiggling while running to see if you can duplicate problem. The harness is stupid design as every stepper, endstop, etc goes to one connector on MB. After waiting forever for MB to send new one, they sent one with all the legs cut to wrong length. I ended up making my own which was better anyway. I found this site which got me started. http://www.extrud3d.com/x-harness

It took a while to figure out what I needed. Part numbers:

Digi-Key: CI16N-5-ND, MC16M-10-ND, HKC14S-ND, HKC16S-ND

Mouser: 538-16-02-0114, 538-70107-0038, 538-89400-0620, 538-16-02-0096, 538-50-57-9404, 538-50212-8000-CT, 538-87369-0600

Crimpers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AVVO7K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Overall the 2X has been a struggle since the day I got it but I do have it printing pretty well now. I installed metal x ends and cooling block from Carl Raffles - worth every penny and I can successfully print PLA now.
https://shop.raffle.ch/

If installing Carl's block, use these extruders: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:256754

u/Oh_Herro_ · 5 pointsr/Reprap

Measure the center-to-center spacing of the wire housings. If they are 2.54mm (.1") they are the JST XHP series as the other commenters pointed out out. Usually though, stepper connectors are the JST PH series and spaced 2mm center-to-center. These definitely look different though... is that a NEMA 17 or a NEMA14? Anyways if it's the more standard connection, it's a JST PHR-6 connector. These are the crimp pins that mate to the PHR-6. There are other ones for thinner wires, but you will want these for steppers. If it is instead what the other commenters have pointed out, you will want these connectors with these crimp pins. If you don't already have a crimp tool for thinner wires, I recommend these from experience.

EDIT- just want to add that if you don't feel you have a reliable way to measure the center-to-center spacing (like using calipers), you can always hold up a connector for an Arduino or similar, or an Arduino itself, and eyeball the pin spacing.

u/averoth123 · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

You'll need these https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K to crimp the pins if for some reason they are damaged.

I bought those crimpers and a box of JST-XH male and female connectors that are 2S-4S. You could also buy the connector with the wires and solder them back on but that is a bit too risky for me!

u/wydra91 · 3 pointsr/PrintedCircuitBoard

There's a 50 dollar crimp tool floating around. I custom make all molex and jst harnesses on my fpv drones with it. They aren't amazing, and of you screw up you have to start over, but it works if you only need to mess with it occasionally.

Found it.

u/myself248 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

The Engineer PA-09 is the only one worth having for those little guys. They have a thin jaw that works well on the really short-depth terminals, but this makes them annoying to use on larger (automotive and stuff) terminals.

For larger terminals (common "dupont" up to large automotive stuff), just get these and be done with it. They're the best and most universal I've found in yeeeears of horsing around with this stuff. Their jaw is too thick for the small JST stuff, however.

Those two crimpers cover 99% of the open-barrel terminals in the world, for roughly $100 combined.

u/tjb1 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

These may work? Engineer PA-09 Micro Connector Crimpers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AVVO7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Xn04wbW5PE1TR

u/rich-creamery-butter · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Not very. That crimper is made specifically for the PicoBlade series connectors from Molex. And at that, only one pitch of PicoBlade connectors (there are multiples) It will not work with all terminals in that range. Well, it might or might not but it's really a crapshoot. Molex crimpers are generally made for a specific set of terminals for a specific pitch for a specific connector series, and are not intended to be universal. Not sure if Molex offers interchangeable dies either, although I assume they would. BUT not all of their terminals use this style of crimper either. Some have entirely different form factors with different types of dies.

Also, if you haven't used a Molex crimper they have a spring-loaded button thing on the back that pushes a plastic piece forward between the open die, which holds the terminals. Check out this video. They are not universal either and each is designed for a narrow range of terminals. Molex makes dozens of different crimpers. You can fit other terminals in there sometimes but they won't hold well and will be too wobbly or too big. Some of the terminals require unique finished crimp geometries to fit in the connector housing, and so crimpers for them won't work well for "general purpose" terminals.

I recommend staying away from the OEM crimpers - as nice as they are - until you have a specific need for one or you need to assemble a ton of connectors. If you're putting connectors in something mission-critical or very hard to get to, it may be worth it to get the correct OEM crimper to ensure crimp quality. For most hobbyist purposes though - not worth it IMHO.

Instead, I'd suggest picking up one of these. So far I like it a lot more than the "engineer" crimper which I've also used extensively. The IWISS is actually a "combo" of 2 of their other crimpers and covers a pretty wide range of terminals. It will also crimp both wire and insulation in one step, and the die is sized differently for those portions. Much more convenient, twice as fast to do a terminal. The Engineer crimper requires you to first crimp the wire, then the insulation (or vice versa).

The engineer is OK but it's not nearly as good for small terminals. The clearances inside the closed die are quite large, terminals get jammed in there and misshapen or broken. Or the part sticking out of the die is bent by the crimping process. It's also not correctly toleranced for insulation crimping so you have to do it by feel or you'll just crimp through the insulation altogether. I've pretty much decommissioned that one. The IWISS has so far been very good, just squeeze all the way and done with good insulation crimping.

Of course, if you know you will only use that series of connectors and you don't mind the outlay for OEM crimpers, then by all means go for it. They are super nice to use so if you can justify it then more power to you!

u/shiftingtech · 3 pointsr/voroncorexy

Don't know if there is a good list, though a few things are mentioned at the bottom of the unofficial V2 BOM. but I'll do my best to say what I used for my V2:

Metric Hex screw drivers: I picked up bondhus 10686 for this build, and it served me well.

Ferrule crimper: Something similar to this ( Mine is actually This guy here., but I'm sure I didn't pay anywhere near that much)

wire stripper: something else I've had forever, but something along these lines

un-insulated terminal crimper: Engineer PA-09 served me very well

Insulated terminal crimper: something else I've had far too long to have the branding. Mine look a lot like these though.

And then it's down to really normal stuff, that you probably already have around: normal screw drivers (mostly phillips), precision screw drivers, scissors, box cutter.

You're bound to want a multimeter for something, at some point.

Oh. And I cut my plexiglas panels on the table saw, since I have one. That's certainly not necessary though. Lots of people doing just fine with scribe cutters like this

You'll notice I didn't include any drill bits or taps. Sorry, I went with the pre-cut, pre-tapped Misumi framing, so I didn't DO any cutting or tapping. I can tell you though, if you're tapping your own, all your taps will be for M5 x 0.8 threaded screws.

u/livingplasma · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

I've gotten mine from Digi-Key, shipping can sometimes cost more than the items especially on small orders though. The Engineer PA-09 crimper seems to be the most recommended tool for the variety of micro connectors our hobby uses, I've only had issue with trying to crimp something smaller than Picoblade connectors like the break out connections on some micro FC boards or VTX's.

u/danringer · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

I just bought crimpers to rewire the JST connection directly.

Engineers Precision Crimping Pliers Pa-09 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AVVO7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m12SDb2BAZ1TE


US $0.65 7% Off | 100pcs/LOT 2.0mm terminal Wire Cable for Housing ph2.0 2mm Female Male Connector for ph2.0 multiple pins
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/pajnmVWY

u/Loomy7 · 2 pointsr/diyelectronics

I'm surprised this hasn't been recommended yet. This is the crimper I use for all my hobby work: https://www.amazon.com/Engineers-Precision-Crimping-Pliers-Pa-09/dp/B002AVVO7K

u/_81818 · 2 pointsr/arduino

Just some crimpers that are the right size. I use these which I actually bought for the JST connectors until I gave up on them. You can maybe get by with other cheaper crimpers.

u/natermer · 2 pointsr/ebikes

>the display shows me that it actually is pulling 1300W instead of the 1000W this set is supposed to-not sure the battery likes that lol

This is normal. Motors are rated based on continuous output. But traction motors are not used continuously, instead the power comes in shorter bursts. So you can push more power through them then their rating and still be fine.

The real limitation on motors is heat, not wattage. This is why statorade is a nice upgrade for DD hub motors. Keeps them cooler for longer. Allows the user to push more more torque and better hill climbing performance.

>fucking. spare.air.tire nothing ...now smooth riding with the stock chinesium tire that was laying around (still no spare nothing) löl :)

First upgrade: Toolbag with spare innertube, patches, and hand tools. A bicycle multitool is cheap. Throw in there a adjustable wrench for the bolts on the rear tire and you are golden.

I like the type that fit on the top tube just behind the handle bars. They have ones that will allow you to put your phone into a water proof pouch. Pretty handy if you like to use it for navigation and tunes.

​

>light is a bit of a problem...need more for winter season on trail...for streets this Lifebee is ok

Second upgrade: Get a super bright light for trails and keep your Lifebee for streets so you don't go around accidentally blinding people. :)

​

>the grips-handle whatever you call them are stinking like fucking filthy plastic trash!!1

Third upgrade: Switch over to a thumb throttle (if you don't already have one) and get those big fluffy foam handles.

Either that or wear gloves. :P

>have to switch to new bike grips and thought about diy fumbling my own thumb gas out of the rock shock compression lever ?! would ne nice and undercover :)

They have a very nice 'low profile thumb throttle' that I like a lot. It's pretty stealthy and can be used on either side of the bike.

https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/throttles/t-lever.html

https://www.amazon.com/Throttle-Handlebar-Control-Electric-Scooter/dp/B0773H9QDL

I don't know if that is a good one or not or if there is any real differences between these other then price. I don't have one, but my next one will be one of those.

>anyone ever done something like this ?

I have swapped throttles. It can be a bit of a chore to keep track of the wiring since each kit is always a bit different and there isn't any real standardization. It helps a lot to write down on a piece of paper what each wire does what and take pictures clear before making any changes.

On most of the things I upgraded on my cheap kit I ended up cutting off the original connections and replacing them with my own.

Used this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AVVO7K

with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074LVGVTY/

to make these:

https://www.ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html#jstsm

But there are probably easier ways to do it.

u/MaIakai · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

another LPT: engineer crimpers are a thousand times better than the ratcheting style. But double the price, and yes you need two to cover every style of crimp out there.

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K/
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-20-Universal-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B002AVVO7U/

vs cheaper ratcheting
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4L8QMW/

u/BornOnFeb2nd · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Yes, but only in hindsight!

You might also want to pick up spare pins, female ends, a crimper, and spare headers while you're at it.

Some Ribbon cable can also be useful...

I went through so many pins and headers trying to figure out the right way to crimp those bastards so they stayed put... "crimp" it.. put it in the header... give it a slight tug... cable comes out... grab a pin to lever the catch allowing the pin and female end to be removed, break catch in process, curse.. try again...

Oh well, they're cheap, and I bought a lot expecting to screw up. :)

u/snops · 1 pointr/electronics

Engineer PA make some nice crimp tools that are much better than pliers, if not as good as the real thing. Here is an example, note they come in different sizes, but they tell you what crimps they work with: https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K/

u/GilchristT · 1 pointr/PrintedCircuitBoard

If you're looking at crimping (and I'd also recommend it) don't waste time trying to crimp with ordinary pilers, that's a one-way road to tearing your hair out.

The vendor recommended crimping tools are typically very expensive but you can pick up generic crimpers on EBay, something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/quality-universal-crimping-Japanese-Engineer/dp/B002AVVO7K
I'm not recommending that specific seller, they're just the first one that came up in Google. Search for "PA-09 crimping tool"

u/ZombieGrot · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

That looks like a JST XH-series but one picture with no measurements is a chancy way to identify it.

The terminals are cheap (assuming the right series, of course). Pennies, if you buy 25 or more, which is recommended if you're not experienced with crimping small terminals like that. You'll need a proper crimper. The Engineer PA-09 works well with practice. I prefer their PAD series for flexibility but that's probably overkill, here.

u/hotend · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

The connectors are JST-XH plugs (JST = Japan Solderless Terminals). They are quite common in the R/C community. Wired 4-pin plugs are readily available, but I don't know if you can easily get patch cables. A crimping tool is a good investment. The Engineer PA-09 is probably the best, but there are cheaper options. JST-XH crimps and kits are also available online.