Reddit Reddit reviews Ferrari Portugese Double Lever Corker

We found 7 Reddit comments about Ferrari Portugese Double Lever Corker. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Kitchen & Dining
Home & Kitchen
Home Brewing & Wine Making
Wine Making Equipment
Wine Making Bottles & Corks
Ferrari Portugese Double Lever Corker
Easy to UseAdjustable plunger depthDurableDouble levered for good leverageMade in Portugal
Check price on Amazon

7 Reddit comments about Ferrari Portugese Double Lever Corker:

u/cryospam · 6 pointsr/mead

I always suggest piece by piece. You get better stuff, and often you end up not throwing away some of the shit you will never use anyways.

I always suggest getting 6.5 gallon glass carboys locally (check Craigslist, I got 5 of them for 30 bucks a couple years ago,) you can put vacuum on them if you want to go that route (trust me you want to go that route) and they are completely nonporous so they don't get funky. If you get a carboy cleaner for a drill, it's a breeze to clean your carboys. For sanitizer, buy iodophor as it doesn't foam, and you use a TINY amount...like half the "dose" cup on the left side of this bottle for a 6 gallon carboy, and it lasts forever.

Start with beer bottles, only because it's cheaper to get into it. The Cappers are cheap and they work well. I have this same unit and I've probably capped at least 2000 beer bottles with it...and it's still in perfect condition. For caps ALWAYS get oxygen absorbing ones...they are like 1 cent each more than shitty ones...seriously don't buy cheap ones!

For beer bottles, get them at your local brew store, shipping kicks your ass on these.

If you want to do wine bottles...then you REALLY want a good corker but that will add some additional expense to your kit. Don't even look at the lever action corkers or the plunger corkers or the handheld compression corkers, they are all AWFUL.
For wine bottles...do yourself a favor and buy the ones that have both corks and screw caps like THESE again don't buy them from amazon...this is just a picture so you know what I mean...shipping nearly doubles the price of them...I get these for like 14 dollars a case locally.

For corks, buy good corks, amalgamated corks fall apart and lose their seal. I personally like Nomacorc, I buy their classic ones from my local brew store (again cheaper than amazon) which are good for 3-5 years. They just released a new NomaCorc bio line that are guaranteed for 15 years, but I can't find anywhere to get them yet...I did request a bag of samples though...

u/Tychus_Kayle · 3 pointsr/trebuchetmemes

I've made some slight modifications to this, mostly to make it easier to follow. I've also included steps that should be quite obvious to someone who's done any homebrewing before, but I wish someone had told me when I first started.

I'd link to the original, for the sake of attribution, but the user who posted this deleted their account not long after I wrote everything down.

This will produce a sweet fruit-mead (or melomel). WARNING this will be far more alcoholic than it tastes, and should not be consumed if you've recently taken antibiotics, or suffered gastric distress, as the yeast culture will still be alive, and will happily colonize your intestines if your gut microbiome is too fucked up.

Equipment: Most of this stuff will be a good deal cheaper at your local homebrew store, but I've included amazon links (also to the yeast).

At least 2 (3 is better, for reasons we'll get to) 1-gallon jugs (I don't recommend scaling this up), glass preferred. Add an extra jug for each additional batch. This one includes a drilled stopper and airlock

Drilled stoppers (or carboy bungs) and airlocks, non-drilled rubber stoppers.

An autosiphon and food-safe tubing.

Food-safe sanitizing solution (I recommend StarSan).

An electric kettle with temperature selector is useful, but not needed.

If you want to bottle it rather than just keeping a jug in your fridge:

Empty beer or wine bottles (just save your empties), capping or corking equipment, caps or corks, and a bottling wand.

Ingredients:

2.5 lbs (1130g) honey, clover recommended.

A cup (approximately 250ml) or so of fruit (I recommend blackberries, and I strongly recommend against cherries, other recipes have worked for me, but this yields a very medical flavor with cherries).

1 packet Lalvin EC-1118 yeast (a champagne yeast notable for its hardiness, its ability to out-compete other microorganisms, and its high alcohol tolerance).

Optional: potassium sorbate (to reduce yeast activity when our ferment is done), pectic enzyme (aka pectinase - for aesthetic purposes). Both are also available in bulk.

Process:

Day 1:

Mix sanitizing solution with clean water at specified proportions in one of your jugs, filling the jug most of the way. Stopper it, shake it. Remove stopper, set it down wet-side-up (to keep it sterile), pour the fluid to another jug. There will be foam left behind, this is fine, don't bother to rinse it or anything. At low concentrations this stuff is totally fine to drink, and won't ruin your fermentation or flavor.

Add honey to jug, all of it.

If you have a kettle, and your jug is glass, heat water to around 160F (71 Celsius), pour a volume into your jug roughly equal to the amount of honey present. Fix sterile stopper to jug. Shake until honey and water are thoroughly combined. The heat will make it FAR easier to dissolve the honey. Set aside for an hour or so while it cools. Add clean water 'til mostly full, leaving some room for fruit and headspace.

If you're missing a kettle, or using a plastic jug, this is gonna be a little harder. Fill most of the way with clean water (I recommend using a filter) leaving some room for fruit and headspace. Fix sterile stopper, shake 'til honey and water are thoroughly combined. This will take a while, and you will need to shake VERY vigorously.

At this point, you should have a jug mostly-full of combined honey and water. To this, add fruit (inspecting thoroughly for mold, don't want to add that). Then dump in a single packet of the Lalvin EC-1118 yeast, don't bother rehydrating it first or anything, it'll be fine going straight in. Add pectic enzyme if you have it (this does nothing to the flavor, it just makes the end product less cloudy). Stopper it up, shake it again. This jug now contains your "must" (pre-ferment mead).

Pour some sterilizing fluid in a bowl, put a carboy bung/drilled stopper in the bowl, with an airlock. Ensure full immersion. Let sit for a minute. Replace stopper with your bung/drilled stopper, affix airlock. Fill airlock with clean water, sanitizing fluid, or vodka. Rinse the stopper, fix it to your jug of sanitizing fluid.

Place must-jug in a dark place, I recommend a cabinet or closet.

Days 2-7:

Retrieve jug, give it a little jostle. Nothing so vigorous as to get your mead into the airlock, but enough to upset it. This is to release CO2 buildup, and to keep any part of the fruit from drying out. The foaming from the CO2 release may be very vigorous. Do this over a towel for your first batch. If the foam gets into your airlock, clean your airlock and reaffix it. Perform this jostling procedure at least once per day, more is better.

Day 8:

Final jostling, I recommend doing this in the morning.

Day 9:

let it sit, we want the sediment to settle.

Day 10: Time to get it off the sediment

Shake sterilizing fluid jug. Affix tubing to siphon. Put the siphon in the sterilizing fluid, shake the jug a little just to get the whole siphon wet. Siphon fluid into either a third container or a large bowl. This is all to sterilize both the inside and outside of your siphoning system.

Remove siphon from jug. Give it a couple pumps to empty it of any remaining fluid. Place siphon in your mead jug, leaving the end of the tubing in sterilizing fluid while you do this.

Take the jug that you just siphoned the sterilizing fluid from. Dump what fluid remains in it. Place the end of the tubing in this jug, then siphon the mead into it. Make no attempt to get the last bit of mead into your fresh container, it's mostly dead yeast and decomposing fruit.

Add potassium sorbate if you have it, stopper the jug, place it in your fridge.

Clean the jug you started in. Clean your siphon and tubing.

Day 11:

Let it sit

Day 12 or later: time to transfer again, or bottle it.

If you no longer have a jug full of sterilizing fluid, make one.

Repeat the earlier steps to sterilize the siphoning system, with a bottling wand attached to the end of the tubing if you want to bottle.

Sterilize your bottles or a clean jug, either with fluid or heat.

Siphon mead either into your bottles or jug. Stopper/cap/cork when done.

Put your jug/bottles in the fridge.

The yeast culture is still alive, and will continue to ferment. The fridge, and optional potassium sorbate, will merely slow this down. I recommend drinking any bottles within two months, to avoid a risk of bursting bottles. The mead should already be tasty at this point, but usually tastes much better after a couple more weeks.

EDIT: Fixed the formatting up a bit.

u/fernweh42 · 3 pointsr/prisonhooch

If you’re not carbonating, then a cheap handcorker will do. It can be a pain to cork a lot of bottles though.

Beer bottles with bottle caps and capper are easier.

u/kaidevis · 3 pointsr/winemaking

You are correct but I would like to point out that similarly styled hand corkers do exist. I have a similar one for my small batch meads and absolutely love it.

They're a bit of a pain if you're doing hundreds of bottles but perfect for a few cases. What I love most is the small size -- it fits in my brewing supply bin instead of taking up the room a stand-up corker does.

u/Ghawblin · 2 pointsr/mead

To piggy back on u/stormbeforedawn's comment.

This is the equipment I used that I've had good luck with so far. It's what he recommended, I'm just providing links to the specific product I used.

  • 2 gal primary bucket

  • 1 gal secondary glass

  • Autosiphon

  • racking cane

  • Hydrometer

  • Starsan

  • GoFerm

  • I used Fermaid O, not Fermaid K, because I was following a specific nutrient regimen. It's called TONSA 2.0. Popular, but apparently not cost efficient with larger batches. People better at this than I can answer nutrient schedule questions.

  • Bubbler/Airlock.

  • Bottles and cap method are your preferance. You can get bottles of tons of shapes, colors and styles. Corked, capped, swingtop, etc. Just make sure the bottles are food-safe and not decorative hobby/thrift store stuff. If you use corks, same rule, don't use decorative stuff. You'll want #8 agglomerated cork and a hand corker tool to put the corks on. #9 corks work too, but you'll need heavy tools (like a floor corker) to do that..
u/MjVert · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

You could check out one of these