Reddit Reddit reviews FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC

We found 125 Reddit comments about FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Audio & Video Accessories
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Digital-to-Analog Signal Converters
FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC
Digital To Analog ConverterDigital Signal Coaxial Input PortDigital Signal Optical Input PortCoaxial/optical Switch For Easy Switching Between Digital Signals3.5mm Sound Output Dock. Supports PCM only
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125 Reddit comments about FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC:

u/Wail_Bait · 25 pointsr/techsupportgore

I haven't seen anyone do this in years. It was somewhat common about 10 years ago when good headphones were becoming popular, but external DACs and headphone amplifiers didn't really exist. I mean, yeah, headphone amps have been around since at least the 60's, but they were always expensive audiophile or recording studio products. So for PC audio you either modified your sound card or built a CMoy amp, because the cheapest actual headphone amp was $1000.

Also, a good DAC is about $20, not $120. A good headphone amp is around $100 though so it would be $120 for both, but most headphones do not need an amp.

u/TrueDiligence · 11 pointsr/buildapcsales

I will leave a note here for those wondering what a DAC/Amp is and when they are needed.

-----------------

DAC


A DAC is simply a digital to analog converter. A good DAC will minimize the amount of noise that is introduced into the system, noise being hissing, buzzing, ringing, etc. In more technical terms this would be errors made by the DAC when converting a stream of bits coming from your computer to an analog signal.

It doesn't cost much to produce an accurate DAC. Most on-board DACs are good enough that you won't notice any noise. If you do notice noise it's likely because of interference from other components on the motherboard. In that case a cheap external DAC, such as the Fiio D03k, should clean up the signal.

TL;DR: Don't notice any noise, don't buy an external DAC

------------------

AMP


An amplifier does what the name implies, it amplifies the analog signal going to the headphones. Some headphones are easier to power than others. The SHP9500s are just fine running off your motherboard, which probably has a relatively weak amp, but something like the HifiMan HE-6 requires a lot of power. My recommendation would be to try out the headphones without an amplifier first, then purchase an amp if you aren't reaching the listening volume you would like.

Let's say you need an amplifier, which one do you get? First you should know that there are two major types of amps: solid state and tube. Solid state amplifiers aim to provide clean power to the headphones. Tube amplifiers intentionally introduce distortion to the sound to make it sound more natural. This tends to cut down on harsh treble.
You want to make sure the amp you purchase has enough power for your headphones and will provide clean sound. A great entry level amplifier would be the FX Audio DAC X6 which also happens to have a built in DAC. If you require more power than that the Schiit Magni 3 is exceptional. Anything beyond that, I would recommend heading over to /r/headphones.

TL;DR: Happy with your listening volume? Don't buy a separate amplifier.

u/dvd_sandwich · 10 pointsr/PS4

The PS4 still has optical audio output, so if your headset supports that, you can connect it with that.

I recommend getting something like this, which will convert optical to red/white RCA cables.
A clumsier option would be to plug this cable into your controller.

u/UrbanToiletShrimp · 8 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

I had this problem a while ago when I bought new speakers, the solution for me was to buy a cheap external DAC and plug that into the optical port on my motherboard, since it's just light there is no electrical interference.

u/flecom · 5 pointsr/headphones

as far as cheap dacs this thing sounds pretty good to me, way better than it's $20 price tag

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=fiio+dac&qid=1563877792&s=electronics&sr=1-7

I use one at work so if it get's stolen I won't be heart-broken

u/totallywontstabyou · 5 pointsr/audiophile

Here's a cheaper option for the OP if he isn't using anything fancy.

u/BeardedAlbatross · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Alright, the problem here is your TV has no variable or line level RCA outputs. I'm going to offer a couple of options:

  1. An optical DAC with a remote line level controller and powered monitors. DAC, Remote volume control, Really good sounding powered monitors. Wait til they go down to about $240 for the pair or buy them on massdrop now, you have 9 hours to decide. Totals to $300

  2. Same setup as above, but will switch out the JBLs for something cheaper and totals to about $200. Wait til the Micca PB42X are in stock at amazon. They run $120. If you can swing for the JBLs, do it though.

  3. The best option in my opinion, would be to get a cheap 5.1 receiver with an optical input. You can pair this with any pair of passive speaker you want, you can purchase a used receiver from craigs or ebay, you can add a center channel at a later date, and more importantly, you can add a subwoofer when your budget allows and have proper bass management with high and low pass filters and eq.
u/frogspa · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The FiiO Taishan is a good cheap DAC.

You could even power it from your TV, if it has a USB socket.

u/the_blue_wizard · 4 pointsr/audio

Marshal is a good brand of Guitar Amplifiers, but not the best. The WHO, for example, used Marshal Cases but put EARTH Amps inside. They had a sponsor deal with Marshal.

But £435 for a tiny Marshal Bluetooth speaker? You could by a Stereo Amp, add 8" bookshelf speakers, and add a Bluetooth Receiver for about $320

Avantree Bluetooth Receiver - $40 to $50 -

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Headphones/dp/B00LAZ6RTW

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Headphones/dp/B072BMF2LP

Yamaha RS202, 100w/ch Stereo Receiver with Bluetooth - $129 -

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_022RS202/Yamaha-R-S202.html?tp=47041

Notice the above amp already has BLUETOOTH Capability, so your don't really need the Avantree Bluetooth Receiver.

Yamaha NS-6490, 8", 3-way Sealed Speakers - $130/pr -

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-NS-6490-Bookshelf-Speakers-Finish/dp/B00018Q4GA

  • $130 = Yamaha RS202 Receiver with Bluetooth
  • $130 = Yamaha NS-6490 8" Speaker PAIR
  • $_50 = Avantree Bluetooth Receiver/Transmitter
  • ------------------------
  • $310 = Total

    More realistically -

  • $130 = Yamaha RS202 Receiver with Bluetooth
  • $130 = Yamaha NS-6490 8" Speaker PAIR
  • ------------------------
  • $260 = Total

    Certainly your choice, but why buy a toy stereo when you can get the real thing for less money.

    If want to connect the very substantial system to your TV for Movie watching, that would be an extra $20, which is still far less than the Marshal.

    FIIO DAC Optical/Coaxial - $20 -

    https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

    In reality, this is all you really need assuming you intend to connect to a TV as well as Bluetooth.

  • $130 = Yamaha RS202 Receiver with Bluetooth
  • $130 = Yamaha NS-6490 8" Speaker PAIR
  • $_20 = FIIO D3 24b/192k DAC (digital to analog converter)
  • ------------------------
  • $280 = Total

    That is a full size, full power Stereo System, that is, yes larger, but a lot more versatile than a small single purpose Bluetooth speaker.
u/painess · 4 pointsr/audiophile

I bought one of these for the same purpose. There are some cheaper ones but I went with this one because I know the brand. It sounds great to me.

u/TimeTomorrow · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Imho, a DAC is the least of your worries at this price point. Use your onboard DAC and spend the money on speakers and amplification.

If you aren't satisfied, add the dac later when more funds become available.

$200 for amplified 2.0 IDM setup is still kinda tight, but it's a lot more to work with than if you spend half to a third of that budget on a dac.


How are you on space?

https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/JBL/LSR305-Pair-Powered-Monitor-114697963.gc

alternatively you could get a starter dac if your pc output is terrible.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1538513731&sr=8-9&keywords=fiio+dac


I've personally used this dac and found it quite acceptable with a nice system costing about 5 times what you are looking at. Truth be told, I'm now using a minidsp 2x4 hd and i doubt I could apples to apples tell the difference on just the dac functionality.



u/philoneous · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you don't get the CCA, would a cheap TOSLINK DAC work? Something like

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS

for $20?

u/EmLeingod · 3 pointsr/howto

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

u/heavymcd · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

I’ll assume by “lag” you mean the latency between when you strum and when the note sounds. If you simply mean the difference between when the note sounds and when it crosses the line on the TV, that can be adjusted in video settings.

Latency, however, and only be fixed in hardware (at least in the context of Rocksmith on XB1).

First, let’s talk about latency. I forget the actual cutoff, but somewhere around 100ms is the point at which your brain will “notice” that the sound of your strum is lagging behind your action of strumming. As long as you can get it under your threshold of perception, you’ll usually be fine. But once it’s over, you’re screwed.

Latency stacks. So every step that adds latency is the enemy. There is latency in the real-tone cable (and indeed any digital interface). There’s latency in the Xbox, as it takes your tone, applied your amp and effect sims, and then sends it out to the optical output. Further, there’s latency in whatever digital to optical converter you plug that optical into. Plus there will be even more latency if that amplifier or sound bar is doing any fancy audio effects (like surround or simulated surround). And if you’re running HDMI to a TV? Fuhgeddabout it. I think that step alone adds like 80ms. You won’t notice it when watching Stranger Things, but Rocksmith will always suck.

So what can you eliminate? On Xbox One, here’s the best you can do (XB360 has analog outputs so you can do a bit better):

Xbox->DAC->Analog Amp

Turn literally every possible effect on that amp off, or even better buy one that doesn’t have any to begin with. Just a stupid dumb analog stereo amplifier. The latency will be gone, or rather it’ll be less than the perception threshold.

Some home theater amps have an option somewhere you can set to get pure unprocessed stereo audio. My friend’s has a single button you can hit for analog inputs that’ll do it. But first things first I’d try to somehow get the setup above going, and see if it fixes your problem.

For the DAC, I use this one with my (optical only) PC:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS/

That’s a FiiO D3 DAC. Does nothing but turn SPDIF audio over optical into RCA/3.5mm analog. It adds about as little latency as possible. Plug literally any “dumb” computer speakers into it...I’m talking $10 no-frills simple amplified speakers. You should hear no lag. Verify this.

Now, if you then still get lag when you run that DAC’s output into your sound bar, then your sound bar is the problem. Figure out if you can turn off all the processing (surround, SRS, basically any effects at all). If you can’t? Go to Goodwill and get a cheap stereo amp for like $30. And some cheap speakers to match. That’s what I did. Cheap Sony amp with a remote, no surround, only two speakers out and stereo inputs. But it gets the job done.

Good luck!

This is an issue on PC too, btw. It’s just that most PCs, unlike Xbox, have analog outputs. And many users are also using analog speakers, not crazy sound bars and such. So the usual problem hardware isn’t present.

u/Olgaar · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

How many inputs do you have on your Amp? If you can take more than 1 analog input, you could get a cheap USB DAC:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=ELE+EL-D01+MINI+HIFI+USB&_sacat=0

and a cheap optical/coax DAC:

http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

And still stay under $50. Off the top of my head, I'm not familiar with a cheap one that does both.

EDIT: actually, I stumbled on this one here: http://www.parts-express.com/dac-digital-to-analog-audio-converter-optical---coaxial---usb--180-998

u/ctfrommn · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

Good speakers too...I owned almost exactly the same pair. Those hearken back to when Infinity actually made good speakers.

u/polypeptide147 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile
u/sharkamino · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

For use with a TV look for a used AV receiver and some passive bookshelf speakers.

If you have to go powered, Fluance are $85 less in Walnut, Fluance Ai40B $215 CAD vs Edifier R2000DB $300 CAD.

Which model TV? Does it have analog RCA or 3.5mm headphone out or only optical.

If only optical out the Edifiers have optical input, the Fluance would require a $35 DAC, FiiO D3 (D03K).

u/DosParkers · 3 pointsr/Rockband

In the video he is using a HDMI splitter to split the signal into two and then converting one of them into analog audio using a DAC (Digital-to-Analog-Converter). However, you can skip the HDMI splitter because, fortunately for us, the consoles already split the signal for us. It's called TOSLINK or optical out. This signal is output with near 0ms delay (cannot get any quicker output). Now we just need to convert it to an analog signal. Fortunately again, most sound receivers do this for you (most will have a optical audio input) and they do it with very good audio delay (it takes a few ms to convert from digital to analog). The issue arises when you don't have a sound receiver and you instead use the TV's built-in DAC. In almost all cases, they are the cheapest DAC the TV manufacturer can find and the audio is ran through several built-in filters before being output (adding quite a bit of audio delay). So here are your scenarios and solutions.

  1. Sound receiver (external soundbar or stereo receiver) - Use an optical audio cable ($5-$10) and run it from the console directly into the sound receiver. If you are using a sound receiver, it will have a "Direct" mode. You need to enable that to bypass the sound filters (which increases lag). Most sound bars do not have this feature but the filters they apply are much less extensive and therefore much less lag inducing.
  2. No sound receiver (built in TV speakers) - Buy a cheap external DAC (Fiio D3 for $20 is a very good choice) and run an optical audio cable directly from the console into the DAC and then a red/white (analog RCA) cable directly from the DAC into the TV.

    I would highly recommend #1 over #2. You can pick up a decent sound bar for $80+ and it will blow your mind compared to the TV's built-in speakers. I personally own this one and it's not even comparable to the TV's speakers. It also allows you to connect your Bluetooth devices directly to it wirelessly and use headphones by plugging them directly into the sound bar.

    Hope this helped!

    edit:


  • Did some testing for you and pulled out my Fiio D3 and did optical direct from console and then used headphones plugged into the Fiio. My audio lag for guitar was +10ms from the video lag (0ms, TV in game-mode). This would also be comparable to Direct Stereo Mode in a sound receiver. Maybe another +10ms.
  • The sound bar is around +60ms. Which is extremely fast for it running the audio through a sound filter (to make it sound better / it doesn't have any kind of direct stereo mode). (I need to test this more later though.)
u/Lord_Glarfbag · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

$20 at Amazon for one of these https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS - fixes problems with hum/buzzing you may get from using the analog 3.5mm output.

u/asdf4455 · 3 pointsr/headphones

I have no idea whether or not it would damage the headphones or if it would even really work, but I'm curious if you have a standalone DAC or DAC/AMP. usually any noise you get from headphones on your computer would be caused by interference in the motherboards on-board audio. If you don't have a dac or dac/amp, consider getting one as it might just eliminate the noise you experience without having to use a device like this. You can get a cheap standalone dac like this or this. Now, idk what version of the DT770 you have, but if it more than the 32 Ohm, you could also consider getting a cheaper DAC/AMP combo from SMSL or FiiO.

u/DZCreeper · 3 pointsr/buildapc

You need a DAC for the Xbox.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-D03K-Digital-Analog-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

You also need the S/PDIF cable.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B00NH11H38

Better DAC's exist, but you won't notice the difference with cheap speakers.

u/transam617 · 2 pointsr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths

You can get a pretty cheap RCA or 3.5mm jack to optical like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS

The quality is as good as the analog signal you feed it.

This is assuming when you say optical, you mean toslink cable.

u/friendly-atheist · 2 pointsr/headphones

Does your computer have the red and white out? If it doesn't, then don't try to convert it from 3.5mm to the red/white because you'll be double amplifying. If your motherboard has optical or digital coaxial output, spend the least money you probably ever will with this hobby and buy this DAC:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then you can connect the amp directly to that and avoid double amplification.

u/ocinn · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009346RSS/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FMZX48I/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JTV7UM/ (2x of these)
.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/3-Way-Audio-Video-AV-RCA-Black-Switch-Selector-Box-Splitter-with-3-RCA-Cable-/380801577182?nav=SEARCH (throw away included cable)


DVD player coax digital > single cable > FIIO> dual mono price cable > input 2 of rca switcher > other dual mono price cable (from rca switcher out) > input of receiver. TV audio goes to input 1 of switcher.

u/dirt__squirrel · 2 pointsr/xboxone

If it's DVI-I OR DVI-D you can, but you'll only get audio with that. You'll then have to use the optical out to a soundbar or speakers. If they don't have an optical in then you'll need a digital to analog converter like this http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B009346RSS.

Convoluted bullshit, I know, but it's the best you can do without buying a tv or something.

u/sjv7883 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

The only way you'll be able to control the TV's volume with a remote is if 1) you output the TV's audio to a component that has a volume control, and 2) your TV's remote can control that component.

​

As u/GbMaxSE said, you could use a simple DAC such as this one, which would let you use your TV's optical audio output and send it to your speakers. You would then be able to control your volume using the knob on the M-Audios. Then you run into the problem of connecting your sub and controlling it's volume.

​

Your next option would be to use something like the Schiit Fulla. This just happens to be a DAC that also has a volume control. In this case, you would connect the Fulla to your TV's optical audio output, then split the signal coming out of the Fulla and route one set of RCA's to your M-Audios and the other to your sub. At this point, you've spent about $99 on the Fulla, $10 on cables, and $10 on shipping, and you still can't control the volume with your TV's remote.

​

Next up, for $150 you can buy this Denon receiver (free shipping), and then you also buy the Micca MB42 speakers for $60 (free shipping, with Prime) or find something on Craigslist. Now you're in it for $210. But now you have a home theater receiver powering some decent entry-level bookshelf speakers, and you can connect your subwoofer to the Denon's subwoofer output. You now have total volume control and most likely can use your TV's remote to control the volume of the Denon. Once you have a basic setup like this, you can upgrade any of the components (speakers, receiver, subwoofer, add more speakers, etc.) independently of one another.

​

We can keep going if you'd like! I love doing this stuff!

u/flouride · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I bought the FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter . It works great. I wasn't getting audio though the Samsung apps and tuner, I had to change the audio setting to get them to work
I don't have control over my audio with my remote right now because my lepai receiver is analog and the TV won't control it that way. Will be going to a full digital 5.1 in the near ish future. For right now, just using my amp manually.

u/x3n0n1c · 2 pointsr/gaming

Yes, it will be per channel.

Wattage is largely irrelevant, the way powering speakers work is most people will only use a few watts per channel in a home environment. As you go louder, it takes exponentially more power to do so, it isn't a linear scale. Most speakers will produce 80-90db on only 1 watt.

The main concern is the resistance of the speaker, and this does matter. The standard is 8ohm and most equipment will expect this resistance. Most cheap speakers from Home Theatre in a Box systems for example are 4ohm, and could potential damage an amplifier if it isn't designed to support them. This is because a speaker of lower resistance will require more power to produce the same level of volume, so your amplifier has to work harder to power them.

The power listed on speakers is the MAX amount of power you want to feed them without damaging the speaker. Any more than that and you may blow them.

Large floorstanding speakers with lots of drivers may be bottlenecked by too weak an amplifier, but you could run most mainstream speakers off a 40 watt Lepy amplifier easy. Lepy amps are cheap as chips amps that are generally ment for car use, but are great for a cheap solution to power a couple speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-Channel-Digital-Amplifier-Included/dp/B01AQARWHW/ref=sr_1_2?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1480112573&sr=8-2&keywords=lepy+amp&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

If your TV has RCA audio out than you can run it directly to the amp. If it doesn't you can use a simple optical to RCA adapter to convert the audio.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480112767&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+optical

Or just get the receiver of choice :P

u/_Valet · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'm looking for a receiver or preamp with a remote control for volume control.

Im using optical --> FiiO D3 (D03K) --> DBX goRack --> Emotiva 6s Powered Monitors

I want to eliminate the goRack and the Fiio. I would also like multichannel out for a sub and potentially more powered monitors.

My budget is $200-300 USD Buying used is fine.

u/10GuyIsDrunk · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

If that's working for you it could work with an adapter but honestly that looks like trash, you want a DAC to be isolated, not acting as a USB hub. You probably want something with RCA outs to plug into the speakers directly via RCA cable without additional adapters. If your motherboard has an optical audio out you could still go cheap with something like this or if the volume knob is something you use a lot you could go this direction (though I wouldn't recommend it personally).

But if your setup works for you and you don't have noticeable noise (like when there's silent audio) you're probably fine if you have an RCA adapter. That said, if you've got some more cash to spend buying an actual quality DAC/Amp can be pretty dang enjoyable.

u/adrianmonk · 2 pointsr/audio

If you want to hear two sources at the same time, you want a mixer (which is the opposite of a splitter).

A mixer can be digital or analog, but basically they aren't really consumer-oriented devices, and the digital ones tend to be pretty expensive. So practically speaking, analog is the way to go. (That means you would not use your Kenwood receiver's optical input, but one of its analog RCA inputs.)

For an example of a mixer, you could get a cheap Behringer 502 mixer for $40.

If the XBox doesn't have a 3.5mm output, then you will need a digital-to-analog converter for it. There are tons available, but here is a cheap one for $20. With this converter, your two sources (XBox and Echo Dot) will both be available as analog outputs.

From there, to hook it up, you would need:

  • Two 3.5mm to dual 1/4" stereo breakout cables like this one from Hosa for $5 each. One of them would plug into LINE IN 2/3 on the Behringer mixer and the other would plug into LINE IN 4/5.
  • One dual 1/4" to dual RCA stereo cable like this one from Hosa for $6. This would go from the Behringer mixer's MAIN OUT to one of the RCA inputs on your Kenwood receiver.

    To operate it, you'd:

  • Use the 2/3 and 4/5 LEVEL knobs on the mixer to adjust the levels of each sound source. Set the BAL knobs to the center position.
  • Turn the 1 LEVEL knob down to zero since you don't have anything plugged in there.
  • Control the overall volume with the MAIN MIX knob. Or set that to something reasonable and use your receiver to control the volume.

    This is all kind of awkward, but unfortunately I don't know of a mixer that has a more consumer-oriented design and uses 3.5mm or RCA connectors.

    TLDR: Anything that isn't analog (XBox), convert it to analog with a digital-to-analog converter. Use mixer to combine signals. Run mixer's output to an input on the receiver.

    Edit: Thanks for the gold. OP delivers. Also one more thing I forgot to mention: if the Xbox is set to send a surround sound signal to the optical out, that digital to analog convertor won't be able to handle it. You can either get a different converter that can also decode surround sound, or you can change the Xbox audio settings to send a simpler format, which is probably called something like "Linear PCM".
u/Konstantine_13 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You just need a DAC to convert the optical to RCA then run that into the receiver. Fiio D03K is what i use for this exact purpose.

u/QuipA · 2 pointsr/headphones

if you want to have external sound processing you need an external optical DAC. You'll need an optical SPDIF / TOSLINK cable, a FiiO D03K and an RCA interconnect cable to connect the FiiO D03K to the Magni 2.

If you want to stick with Schiit, you'll need a Modi 2 UBER for $149 instead of a D03K

u/HiviSpeakers-Michael · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Does the crackle happen when you use it with your phone?

If yes, your amp has a problem. Take it to a local repair shop.

If no, static electricity is building up between the casing of your computer and the input to your plug (probably). You can solve this by buying a dac, such as

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494235021&sr=8-4&keywords=dac

u/SXSJest · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Thank you! Yes, the TV does have optical output, so to double check, I could use the optical output from the TV to this device: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Splitter-VHD-TS1X3/dp/B00G191YL8 and take one optical split to the soundbar and the other optical split to an optical to RCA DAC like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2I2ABOTKB8VI3 and then from there to the receiver?

That sounds great!

u/CrackAnus · 2 pointsr/audiophile

From your computer to your receiver, you can use a 3.5 mm to RCA cable (almost all PCs and receivers), a digital TOSLINK cable (most PCs and most receivers), or some kind of USB DAC and RCA patch cables. Some receivers can connect directly to your PC using USB or wifi or wired network.

From your receiver to your unpowered speakers (no wall power connection), you would use whatever bare wire cables are currently attached to your speakers or 16 gauge or thicker electrical cable. If you are using powered speakers (with wall power connection), those usually take RCA patch cables, although some have bare wire connectors as well.

u/psikeiro · 2 pointsr/battlestations

The speakers are powered, I use one of these as a DAC only

u/dr_torque · 2 pointsr/audiophile

What source do you plan to use? There's very little to separate d/a chips per se. What has an influence on sound is the implementation on the analogue side - more money buys you better components, better circuit design and isolation from the power components and so on. IMO your A-S501 deserves at least this much.

u/Shike · 2 pointsr/audiophile

So looking at your area I see a few options, but none strike me as a great deal. However, based on your location this may be normal. I attempted to check the price of shipping from various ID sellers and shops and it seems shipping will be $100-$200 which isn't ideal as it really hurts your buying power.

You can attempt yourself to see what the shipping is. I tried Chane's bookshelves, HTD's level three, Audio Advisor, and Accessories for less.

The only retailer that I could find that was reasonable shipping was of course Amazon. So here are my suggestions:

Local speakers to try:

B&W DM601

Paradigm Mini Monitor V6

If looking new:

Monitor Audio B1

I think the Paradigm or MA should be the preferred routes. The DM601 isn't really worth it unless it's at least a S2, if original it may be worth around $150-200. Still, nothing hurts trying to negotiate a better price on the used ones - you'll need it on the electronics side.

Your biggest problem is finding power and cheap. If you could even find a budget Onkyo locally you will likely be ahead as shipping hurts. Otherwise you'll looking at something like a T-Amp/DAC combo from amazon or paying ~$160 shipped to get something like this rebadged Amp 100 which doesn't include the DAC. If your laptop has a mini-toslink there's a Fiio DAC on Amazon for ~$20 that would work - while it isn't USB equipped it does allow you to move it around later one being toslink/spdif. So this amplifier, the B&W speakers, and the DAC could fit in your $500 though I think the speakers are overpriced. If you could get the Paradigms for $300 the APA 100, Fiio, and them would likely be up your alley.

For all intents and purposes you could get the Monitor's and this amp shipped for around $500 or get a slightly more powerful T-Amp like this and one of the used pairs, but I'm hesitant to recommend chi-fi T-amps considering that shipping is so expensive that return shipping for repairs/returns could really hurt.

If none of these solutions float your boat, the LSR305 in the OP and a DAC could still work as well and would fit in your budget rather easily.

u/Zeeall · 2 pointsr/audiophile

The AUX output on TVs tend to be very bad, you are better off with an optical to analog converter.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/


Edit: oooor if you got another $80 to spend(ie $300) you can get the Fluance Ai60 wich comes with optical input and USB input for your computer.

u/Why_is_this_so · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

>So i want to know if its enough or should i buy a dac/amp

Only you can answer that for certain. I've had the M50x, and you should be able to power those just fine. Looking at the M220 specs, you should be able to power those just fine as well. Get the headphones, try them out, and if you find that you can't drive them loud enough for your tastes, then look into an amp.

If the DAC on your motherboard isn't cutting it (and I'm sure it will do just fine) you could pick up something inexpensive like this since your board has an optical out.

TL;DR, you can probably save your money and be just fine.

u/oddsnsodds · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Yes, HDMI carries digital audio. That's how the TV speakers get the sound from your laptop.

I used one of these with my LG. It plugs into the optical output of the TV (needs a toslink cable) and plugs into the receiver with an RCA cable: https://smile.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/

Ha nevermind. I didn't look closely enough at the receiver. It has optical inputs and all you need is a toslink cable. I would do that.

u/MerkinMuffintop · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Can you pick up a cheap optical-to-coax converter and check to make sure the optical output is working properly?

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Optical-Toslink-Coaxial-Converter/dp/B002HWZN4W

You'll also need one of these to plug into the coax input: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775JZ6B7/


Another route would be a DAC: https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/

And you will also need the 3.5mm-to-rca adapter since the analog input on the AD18 is a 3.5mm receptacle.

u/raeanin · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Every time I've tried to run sound out from onboard PC sound it has had terrible noise floor issues.

But on the other hand, the DAC should be the absolute lowest budgeted part of your system. I would highly recommend this dac.

I have this DAC in a few of my systems, including my high(ish) end listening room setup. I've A/B'ed it with my $2000 PS Audio DAC and they sound exactly the same, so that one sits in a closet to free up a rack space.

u/ghuldorgrey · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Thanks! thats the answer i was looking for!
Do i need the red and white cables as well if i want to get the sound through speakers or am i fine without them and sticking my headphones into the jack next to them on the converter?
My monitor only got dvi and vga ports.

I honestly thought the 3.5 adapter is everything i need to make it work. I gonna check my mediamarkt right now and if i wont find the same ill order on amazon. Thanks man

Edit: Just checked the price of the same converter in austria. 120 euros.. this one will work fine as well i guess? http://www.amazon.de/FiiO-Taishan-D03K-Digital-Decoder/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_10?s=ce-de&ie=UTF8&qid=1416586181&sr=1-10&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio+converter

u/Discoteca · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I ended up picking up the open box S15s and the SMSL SA50 during the ebay sale. Also, picked up the DAC from Amazon. Just waiting on them to arrive now.

How would I go about hooking up the DAC and the amplifier to the desktop? Know how to do with with just the amplifier, but not sure what additional cables I'll need for the DAC.

u/GbMaxSE · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Well you've got a subwoofer, and an amplifier that isn't meant to work with a subwoofer, so that's the bulk of the problem.

The TV has a headphone and an optical out... the Headphone output you can use with a 3.5mm to stereo RCA cable, which is good... but The BasX S8 has line level in and out, but that's only going to work with one source, so no matter what there are going to be sacrifices made, here.

​

Here is my proposed method:

​

u/Tnig · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Roku Ultra has optical out. You could use a DAC (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS ) to end up with RCA and then convert it to 3.5mm.

u/Vortax_Wyvern · 2 pointsr/hometheater

This.

Your Tv has optical output. You need a DAC able to convert digital signal from optical to analogic signal for the speakers.

Take a look at this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_oGQjzbNEFMCA6

For only 20 bucks is a nice option for TV.

u/blackgaard · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Well there was some other language in a product name... Edit: link https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

u/AM_key_bumps · 2 pointsr/audiophile

you should consdier getting a DAC. DACs are fantastic. Mine died, and i was going straight from the PC to the stereo, and it sounded like straight up butt. Once I got a new DAC it was a friggin revelation.

if you want to go cheap, a fiio D3 will serve: http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405281051&sr=1-14&keywords=fiio+dac

after that, i would recommend a Schiit Modi: http://www.amazon.com/Modi-USB-Digital-Analog-Convertor/dp/B00CICPN0K/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1405281149&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=schiit+dac

it keeps going up from there (i personally run an emotiva xda-2 which is in the $250 neighborhood).

u/_shadow_banned_ · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Do you have any aesthetic expectations?

I would use a laptop as a source, buy a Fiio DAC, get an audiosource amp, and buy a set of ELAC B6

That's in your price range, but it completely skips the idea of "stereo system" and relies on you owning a computer to dedicate to music.

I woudl have a completely different plan if it was dedicated installed stereo or something that you wanted portable.

u/hack_tc · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

So many points to hit on, I'll try and help with that I can. I'm in the US so I'm not really sure what the pricing and availability is in your area, so my help will be somewhat limited haha.

If you are wanting to do a 2.0 system with the option to upgrade to 5.1 in the future, much of your budget will be going towards a 5.1 receiver. The suggestions mentioned in question 1 are good suggestions, but you also need to take a look at your TV and see what audio out connections are available. Some TV's, like mine for instance, only offer an optical out for audio. If this is the case for you, then the SMSL SA-60 will not work without a DAC in between. Something like the Fiio D3 would suffice. Also, chances are if you go this route, you will lose the ability to control the volume with the TV remote. Getting something like the SMSL Q5 Pro instead might be a better option. It can accept multiple audio inputs (digital and
analog, so no need for a DAC), and also has a cheap remote for controlling volume and other stuff. You can also use the Q Acoustic Speakers with these amps as well. However, either of these amps would have to be replaced in the future if you decide to upgrade to 5.1. But they would be great for a 2.1 setup.

In the US, with that budget (300 euro = $335) and a future 5.1 in mind; I would get a Pioneer VSX-530 Receiver ($200), and the Micca MB42X Speakers ($90). Then I would start saving for a subwoofer like the Bic F12 or ML Dynamo 300 (depending on the size of the room). Once I had a sub, I would then save up for better bookshelfs (3 of them...something like empteks or elacs or who knows what), and relocate the Micca MB42X's to the rear. This would be a a respectable 5.1 setup that will blow away pretty much any home theater in a box.

Anyways, hope I was of at least some help. Best of luck with your setup!

u/iTouchStuff · 2 pointsr/audiophile

What you are in need of is a DAC.
Your TV should have digital audio output in the form of either an optical or coaxial out.
Take a look at :
http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394379209&sr=8-2&keywords=fiio+d3

u/y0y0ma · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I've heard of their 3020, but supposedly the Concept 20 is the same driver in a different cabinet? The What HiFi review makes it sound like the cabinet alone is worth the price difference. That could be true, but I am not going to rely on their word for it. I think it would be best if you could arrange for an audition or, better still, buy them with a good return policy so you can send them back if you are not satisfied with them. This is the most reliable way you could test out 2 speakers because you know best what is important for you. As for bass, it is also part of the music and I feel a faithful reproduction is essential to the experience. I do not own a subwoofer myself because I am satisfied with my MB Quart 490 and their 7.5" woofer. The bass is present but not overpowering at all and it makes all the difference when listening to Pink Floyd or The Coup.

Anyway, what I meant was the audio files will be converted from digital to analog at one point. In your case, it would be the PC's onboard solution. Now, depending on your PC, your onboard solution could be great or it could suck (distortion/constant hum etc.) ! To get around this some people use the digital output on their PC (USB/HDMI/Optical) and the conversion is performed using another device. Since usually stereo amplifiers do not have any way of accepting digital input, the go-to choice is a separate DAC like Fiio D03K / Behringer UCA202. Some people also a get a headphone DAC like Fiio E10K because they need a portable amp for their headphone in addition to a DAC. Others may need more than just a DAC - for example there could be a need to take the HDMI input and send the video to a TV and the audio to speakers. This is where a receiver comes in. A receiver is basically an amp + many more options for inputs, but it could be overkill if you only need a DAC. Used receivers could be cheap, though, and they are quite popular because of the input options you get. Goes without saying that you may not need a separate DAC at all, but just something to consider.

Phew! Hope that helps! :)

u/6x9equals42 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Assuming the wireless transmitter connects with 3.5mm or RCA, you're going to need to use the SPDIF out with a coaxial audio cable and run that into a DAC like a Fiio D3 and then into the transmitter. The other connections (besides the headphone jack) are all inputs

u/Generic_User9876 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

An external DAC?

Hope this is somehow related or helpful, but I've been using this DAC to connect Klipsch speakers to a TV and it works fantastically ...

u/Mark267019 · 1 pointr/PS4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009346RSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521179769&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fiio+optical+dac&dpPl=1&dpID=41XxS0L762L&ref=plSrch

This is what you want, optical will get you the best sound quality. I personally wouldn't mess around with dirt cheap dacs. Just spend the extra few bucks and this one will last.

u/jaromdl · 1 pointr/4kTV

You can always consider getting a DAC similar to this if you find a TV you like that doesn't have a 3.5mm jack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A1UG27DD7KR2HI&psc=1

u/timothom64 · 1 pointr/headphones

I tried the same thing on my mobo but I got a lot of buzzing in my Magni 3. My motherboard has a SPDIF optical output, so I'm getting one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1

Good cheap DAC that doesn't have USB input. The DAC is the last thing to spend money on, they don't change the sound much.

Good luck and enjoy your new Magni!

u/10maxpower01 · 1 pointr/audiophile

I don't know a whole lot about DACs, but my first thought with getting a USB DAC is wouldn't it still lead to interference since it's copper? If I got this would it be better, worse or the same? I don't need an amp, per se. My computer puts out enough for my needs.

u/formcheck2121 · 1 pointr/diyaudio

that looks awesome!

Yes well I do think I may have to go with a 2 way speaker for budgets sake.

Now are the type of DACs important. Are there variations of DAC. It means Digital to Analogue Conversion right?

I see some inexpensive DACs on amazon like this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009346RSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493260939&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dac&dpPl=1&dpID=41hlsUupiBL&ref=plSrch

But they are 24 bit not 32.

And then there's the amplifiers . are there any entry level diy amplifiers for this application.

Your setup is awesome looking. Maybe one day haha!

u/egamble · 1 pointr/audiophile

What DAC did you try? This one is a known good device https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009346RSS . I don't think another receiver will work with that speaker system.

u/m0ro_ · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

The other guy is wrong. I had a TON of various feedback noise "hiss" until I got a cheap DAC which got rid of all of it, but I did eventually get a Scarlett 2i2. I have an XLR mic, the 305's, and headphones all plugged in and I never have to use computer settings to control anything. All volume is just adjusted in the 2i2. It's amazing.

This was the DAC I used originally. I would advise just jumping right into a 2i2 though, might as well save the $20. Eventually, your needs might outgrow the 2i2, but by then you'll have a better idea of what you need.

u/MrEleventy · 1 pointr/headphones

If all else fails, get one of these.

u/Trayscer · 1 pointr/ZReviews

Okay, as far as DAC/amps go, if I do end up needing one do you think one of these would work, or is there another cheap alternative (preferably under $25)? Also, I'm more worried about needing one for the PS4, not so much as PC/Laptop, because I'd be plugging directly into the Dualshock controller. Who knows, it might sound great, but yeah.
https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Digital-Control-Coaxial-Toslink/dp/B073PYN7L5/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

u/applevinegar · 1 pointr/audiophile

Sure can. Get a little fiio d03k and a cable like this and you're set.

u/meatballs4breakfast · 1 pointr/PS4

Do you think the schitt magni with the fiio d3 will work?

the o2 isnt available for me.

u/Brandorff · 1 pointr/audio

Fellow Panasonic plasma owner here.


You're gonna need a DAC (digital-to-analog converter) to change the digital signal from the TV (over the Toslink cable) into an analog audio signal over red and white RCA cables. The way I see it you have 2 options.




Powered Speaker Option - $428


u/reshan · 1 pointr/audiophile

Does this TV have an optical out? If so get one of these. It's what I'm doing right now to listen in my room with 2 of these. Otherwise I have no suggestions.

u/the40ftbadger · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505927697&sr=1-4&keywords=dac Cheap work around.

Edit: Lol? excuse my cheap dac recommendation. Coworker ran a variant of one of these with a little bear was pretty decent for a cheap set up :) Also if you don't have RCA's out from your computer (which you won't unless you have a soundcard with them) this is a cheap solution. cheers

u/t4tris · 1 pointr/headphones

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-D03K-Digital-Analog-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

It only has a coaxial and optical input but any modern motherboard should have an optical audio output.

u/co5mosk-read · 1 pointr/audiophile

what about LSR308 are they good too? will I benefit somehow?

I am thinking about getting http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ for my spdif pc
thanks

u/DArKx1337HaX · 1 pointr/audiophile

> Schiit Modi

Would this work with an optical audio cable and my current hosa cable? If not, I guess I will go with the modi, but it is on backorder...

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

u/DIYHIFI · 1 pointr/audiophile

> I've read much stating that if you just go for the 2 nice monitors at first, they go low enough such that you don't need a sub.

There are a lot of variables at play here. Yes, reasonably high quality studio monitors will hit as low as you practically need for most music, but only if you're listening to them from <10 feet away and aren't expecting THX volume levels.

> I'm not looking to shake the house or anything. I just want a full sound range for music.

Subs don't have to "shake the house", that depends on how you integrate them. To me, they are well integrated when I can't really tell where my speakers end and my subs begin (granted that's different for movies where the shake is part of the effect).

And as for "full sound range", in reality you're missing only the lowest bass octave (20-40hz) without a sub. Those notes aren't even that common in music outside of huge organs and EDM. They are more necessary for action films. But that's not the only benefit of buying one. Low frequencies are the most demanding on your speakers, so if you can ease the workload of your fronts by adding a sub, you can often get more output with lower distortion.

In sum: for $500 I would stick to 2 channel. I think that getting a $250 set of JBL LSR305s + saving for their matching $400 sub makes more sense than buying a more expensive set of monitors. I think many here would agree with me.

It is my impression that you're watching/listening at your desk, so I doubt you'll need a remote. This interface will control volume and select your sources. It is sometimes the case that the built in analog converters of your PC and blu-ray player just aren't very good. If you hear hissing then I suggest you try a cheap external DAC such as this fiio.

That DAC will get one or more of the inputs and you will still use the preamp to control volume.

u/rempred · 1 pointr/headphones

No, the sound stage is slightly smaller but it doesn't make a difference to me in CSGO or CoD. I've actually been using the 9500s exclusively for the last week since I got them, they are more comfortable and are good for music as well. If you don't have an amp, I would get the sap-vi and a optical DAC (I use the D03k, only if your PC has a optical output)

u/TaciturnType · 1 pointr/headphones

You can output audio from the PS4 using optical, so you'll need a DAC that supports optical input. You can check your PC, but most modern motherboards also have optical out.

The cheapest options I've seen are the SMSL 793 DAC+Amp and the Fiio D3 DAC. With the SMSL, you just plug it into either the PS4 or your PC. I've used the 598s with it before, and it sounds almost the same as on board, which is good. If you go with the Fiio, you will need a headphone amp to go with it.

I would not plug your headphones straight into the controller as it significantly lowers the audio quality. You should be able to buy a clip on mic and plug it into the input audio jack on the PS4. I have no experience with this, but from what I remember with my 360, it should be fairly straight forward.

u/BananasApeUnicorn · 1 pointr/headphones

You can use any earbud type headphones with this adapter or this one with a pair of these cables.

There is no volume control on these adapters, so your TV has to control the volume (not sure if it does). I know my very old Bravia can't from the optical jack.

u/wiskinator · 1 pointr/audio

This FiiO DAC is well regarded.

As is this Lepai TA2020 Amplifier

u/deadkactus · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Does the tv have an audio out rca out? If it does, I had a good time when I owned the rolls headphone amp, rolls HA43PRO If you dont have an rca out get a dac for the PS4 digital audio out port fiio has alright ones FiiO D3

u/schumannator · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Yeah, I just googled it and it looks pretty legit. You might check if it has an option to use a front-panel jack as well. You might get better luck using the integrated audio rather than the dedicated audio (probably not, but it can't hurt if it'll save you money, right?)
I could try to explain what I'm thinking the issue is, but it's pretty deep into electronics theory. If you know some stuff about electrons, I'll try to ELI5 if you'd like.
One cool thing you've got is the capability to do SPDIF or TOSLINK out of your motherboard. These are digital communication methods for audio. In order to use it, you'll need something like a (Fiio Tashan)[https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS] box. If you don't want to go that route, you can try something like a SMKN X5. They're not great for driving headphones, but you're using them with powered speakers, and they're super-cheap.
This sub is geared toward audio recording, so if you're planning to use a professional microphone, I'd go for a Focusrite Scarlett. The small two-channel ones are about $100, but they're powerful little boxes. I've recorded a ton of VO work, a couple of guitar pieces, and some misc stuff, and it hasn't let me down yet.

u/choiboy05 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

If you don't care about volume control, and plan to adjust it using another device you already have, I use this on my setup with my computer. It works fine and is cheap.

u/KidShowtime · 1 pointr/rocksmith

I am to believe TV's will do additional buffering of optical audio, which may cause more latency.

I think this may be the same reason my audio is a little off - some audio receivers buffer audio differently, so not all may benefit from the optical out option. (and most definitely not from the HDMI option).

This is why I was looking at a device like this - http://www.amazon.ca/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS and wondering if anyone had any specific success with this and Rocksmith.

u/jdefontes · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

You could get a cheap optical DAC like the FiiO D3.

u/SockPants · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

That's way cheaper than here. It's 33,90 eur (US$37) in Germany and 40 eur (US$43,50) in The Netherlands :(

u/behemothmanface · 1 pointr/headphones

Yes, there are lots of ways. Unfortunately, it's the same recommendation as everyone else. The cheapest way for PC is to get an external DAC. There are many options. This is the cheapest one I know of though. You might try not keeping your laptop's power plugged in while you listen. As for the phone you could also do the same with a DAC but you would want to go portable and those usually start around $100.

u/Will_Piss_You_Off · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Took a quick look in the users manual, and it looks like the tape out jacks will not output audio coming from Digital inputs. Try using one of the RCA inputs on the rear of the unit, I imagine everything will start working correctly. To get proper sound through the EQ for your PS4, you'll need a DAC to convert the PS4 optical to RCA. Fiio makes an excellent unit for the money ($20 bucks), worked like a charm in my setup. Link below:

FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter

As for the turntable, you'll need a phono pre-amp. This will connect between your turntable, and the receiver. As the receiver does not have a phono stage, the pre-amp is required to both boost the signal from the the turntable as well as applying the RIAA EQ (Wiki link if you're interested) required to make it sound correct. The only one I have ever used and can vouch for was an NAD unit, but there are cheaper options available as well.

NAD PP 2e Phono Preamplifier

u/AlienStag · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice

You could just get any DAC/amp combo for headphones that has an optical input (or a separate DAC with optical input and any amp you'd like) and swap cables when necessary, however you could also get a optical audio splitter and just switch between the soundbar and DAC/amp combo by shutting one or the other off.

Optical audio splitter:
Digital Optical Fiber Splitter 1 in 2 Out Optic Audio Splitter Fiber Optical Cable Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BKQVB8N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qNaJBb7ZPTXG7

Possible DAC/Amp combos:
Syba Sonic SD-DAC63057 24bit 96KHz USB 2.0 plus Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WN7QT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cOaJBbK6WB8YM

SMSL SD793-II PCM1793 DIR9001 DAC Digital Audio Decoder Amplifier, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2QLPJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2OaJBbHFSXSYR

Cheap DAC (for use with a separate amp):
FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kTaJBb4ZMFT42

u/mikester01 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I've got a SPDIF -> Line Out adapter that I use for this case.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

u/2bluesc · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

If all you want is optical in to feed your amp, something like a FiiO D3 D03K is $20 would do what you need. I use it on my desktop PC to drive my mixer, but primarily to get rid of the ground noise of my PC.

u/ImaginaryCheetah · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

i'd go with FiiO, they basically brought DACs to consumer markets.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-D03K-Digital-Analog-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/

Plus, it's cheaper :)

Provides 192khz conversion. For reference, a music CD is 44khz... so, 4x the "resolution" as an audio CD.

u/omgwtfishsticks · 1 pointr/audiophile

Yes, but I think we need to get on the same page here. Your TV has a Toslink digital output - you're wanting to convert that digital to analog with a DAC. That analog signal needs to go somewhere, like powered speakers or a receiver.

In that case TV Digital Out -> DAC -> Stereo or Active Speakers

You also want a USB input for your phone. Is that for charging your phone? Most phones don't integrate via USB, they do wirelessly via Bluetooth or Airplay. If your stereo doesn't support either, you'll need a device that you can connect to via bluetooth, and send that signal to your stereo or active speakers.

In that case Phone's Bluetooth -> Bluetooth Receiver -> Stereo or Active Speakers

u/alexthegreat94 · 1 pointr/headphones

If your mobo supports optical then you can’t go wrong with the FiiO D3 and SMSL SAP 6. The D3 is a really good, simple dac for the money and the SAP 6 is IMO hands down the best budget headphone amp for the price. For less than 50 bucks you get a clean sounding amp with more than enough juice for the 400i. It drives my HD 600s and 400is just as well as my 02 and vintage receivers.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523337045&sr=8-5&keywords=dac

https://www.parts-express.com/smsl-sap-vi-headphone-amplifier--230-222

u/PM_ME_YOUR_LAYOUTS · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Digital in (with digital out too) mixers are definitely a thing, but they tend to be pricey and are usually USB, not optical (for pro music usually, not really a 'hifi' thing). If budget's an issue, you're gonna need to mix the audio in analogue regardless.

Lowest cost would probably be a cheap Numark/SubZero mini mixer and two Fiio Taishan d03k's. Cables will be a mess though, if you can't hide it.

You might be better off just buying another soundbar if that's what you're happy with, will cost roughly the same as the mixer and two optical>rca DACs.

u/BmanUltima · 1 pointr/techsupport
u/awesomejim123 · 1 pointr/audiophile

That clears it up, thanks.

I've been looking around and I can't find an amp with something like you describe without drastically increasing the price, would something like this do the trick?

The only problem I'm seeing is that it has digital out and optical/coaxial in, wouldn't it need to be the opposite seeing as it's going from computer (digital) -> DAC -> amplifier (optical/coaxial). Does this matter?

u/kare_kano · 1 pointr/headphones

Audio Technica A900x could be another option.

But yeah, Beyer DT770/880/990 are pretty much the poster children for V-shaped sound. You could look into the differences between the Beyer models, because there's about a dozen variations.

Behringer UCA202 is a $20 DAC. It's actually a DAC+solid state amp combo, but you can bypass the amp, it can output unamped toslink and 2xRCA.

FiiO D3 (aka "Taishan-D03K") is another cheap ($20) standalone DAC, but it takes coax or toslink as input, not USB (which is only for power), so check if your PC has compatible digital outputs.

u/rumpleforeskin16 · 1 pointr/headphones

Thank you for your reply!

I guess I am asking for a lot from one device, I can buy an separate dac if that makes things easier, I've heard good things about the FiioD03k. The only downside to the FiioD03k is that I would have to adapt my turntable's rca outputs into coaxial (is that possible? I've never really dealt with coaxial before).

I don't need optical output, I just wanted to mention that I had it available because I thought it might open up more possibilities.

> they do all feature rca analog inputs however, but you would then be using your pc dac as opposed to the dac in this unit

Using analog inputs means you're not using the unit's built-in dac? I'm just trying to make sure I'm understanding correctly.

Thank you again!

u/MoogleMan3 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ok; you'll need two things.

First, you need a device to convert the optical from the ps4 to analog. A simple dac like the fiio d03k will do the trick, as will an hdmi audio extractor. If you're interested, I have a d03k for sale over on hardware swap.

From there you need something with inputs and separate volume knobs for each input. A mixer will work, but so will something simple like this.

All you need to do is plug an optical from the ps4 to the dac/audio extractor, then an RCA cable from the dac/audio extractor to one of the inputs on the mixer. Then from your PC, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA cable to go from your PC's line out to another input on the mixer.

I hope this helps out some.

One more thing that will work, but is much simpler, is a usb mixer. Those can be more expensive though, but here's a decent one that's not too expensive.

u/T7S · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey guys,


The DAC and amp guide here seems a bit old and I'm a bit of a newbie so I figured I'd ask here.


Here is my current equipment at my work desk:

  • Dell E1505 laptop - crappy, giant, old school enterprise laptop. Only audio output is 1/8th headphone jack and the sound card is awful
  • M-Audio Studiophile AV-40 Active Studio speakers with built in amp


    These are currently connected using a simple 1/8th to 1/8th audio cable, but the end result sounds awful and looks ugly as well since the 1/8th cable has to be plugged in to the front.


    I would like to hook up the laptop to send audio to the speakers, I don't usually use headphones. The speakers use RCA and 1/8th as input, but I'd like to use RCA because those inputs are behind the speaker and won't clutter my desk. In an effort to accomplish this AND improve the sound quality a bit, should I get a DAC? And should I consider switching speakers or do you guys think these are ok?


  • Audio source: laptop.
  • Audio type: music, mostly metal, some IDM, some hip-hop.
  • Willing to buy used: yes.
  • Budget: ideally <$150, the lower the better.



    Ideally, I'm looking for the DAC to run off of AC/USB power since I intend to leave it plugged in 95% of the time. A rotary volume dial would be ideal but isn't strictly necessary. Do I need something like these? And if yes, which one would you recommend?


  • Syba USB DAC
  • Nuforce Icon UDAC-3
  • Modi USB
  • Fiio E10
  • Audioengine D1
  • DAC destroyer




    PS - Could something like this Fiio D3 work maybe? Not sure what kind of adapter would be needed, but it seems unlikely.
u/Pinesse · 1 pointr/audioengineering

It sounds like a 64bit modem with a mix of morse code. The cables are shielded I believe. My Mobo is an asus z77 sabertooth. I havent picked up these noises with my monitoring headphones and shitty 2.1 logitech. But when i change the source to my phone the noise disappeared (I heard galaxy s3s have nice dacs). I'm just surprised how sensitive these speakers are.

Now for the DAC would these work? FIIO D3 (taishan)

u/bambooclad · 1 pointr/audiophile

You don't really need a USB DAC.

You could use a Mini TosLink to Optical TosLink cable from your Mac Mini's headphone out to an inexpensive converter and then on to your Onkyo receiver.

http://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21X-Premium-Converter-Headphone/dp/B00F4ORTZ6

http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

u/red_jesus1315 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Aight now we can accurately tell you what you need. Since the receiver has no optical input, yes a DAC is required from the hardware you have. Hook your DVD player to the TV. Based on the TV model, you have an optical out and a 3.5mm headphone out. You could do a 3.5mm to RCA and hook to your receiver. Or you do a DAC from the optical out then to the receiver. You don't need anything fancy.

This will do you just fine.
FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uyJrDbW4CP26C

u/username1615 · 1 pointr/headphones

So I've decided to get the combo+ Magni 2, do I need anything else to set it up? Would you recommend a cheap DAC like this one per say, or just see how magni fairs?

u/basel_alzahrani · 1 pointr/audioengineering
  1. Yes, It's plugged in the Phones jack

  2. It's the Fiio D3 Digital to Analog Audio Converter
    I wanted to use it to make "Discord" in a diffrent line the[3/4]
    E.g. :https://youtu.be/XvDnVMrr0NE?t=3m25s

  3. "Discord"

  4. I'm planning to start streaming and make youtube videos the mic is the Audio-Technica AT2035

  5. yes, the optical out is going to the converter and the converter goes to line 3/4, the analog out goes to line 5/6 in the mixer

    I Bought the mixer and the Fiio D3 Digital to Analog Audio Converter so I can split my voip audio from my microphone audio from my computer audio so I will end with three tracks of audio
u/ampsby · 1 pointr/audiophile

Give me just a second to find that info

a quick google search brought up this thread
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=118270.0

and this is the link i used to order mine
http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

u/cyberruss · 1 pointr/audiophile

Fiio D03k taishan.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-Taishan-D03K-Digital-Decoder/dp/B009346RSS

Remarkably good... search for the specs.

I use it with Quad 2/22 valve amps and decent speakers. It’s pretty close to M DAC territory.

It costs about $30$ or £!!

u/wannabeemperor · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

FiiO D03K "Taishan" DAC is probably the lowest cost, highest quality DAC you could throw at a project like this. I have used it in the past to bypass crappy DACs or to get analog to older amps/receivers from a digital source. Very good for what it does.

u/Larsorc · 0 pointsr/hometheater

I am admittedly no expert but I had a similar problem a few days ago and installed one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Working great so far, and quality is good.

u/_fuma_ · 0 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You won't find many 2.1 amplifiers to power a passive sub.... I think SMSL and Lepai make one, but its not going to be earth shattering amazing.

I would save up for a better system rather than throwing money at a old piecemeal setup

EDIT - I found this Fosi - (but I REALLY hate recommending Fosi brand to anyone)

u/briefcandle · 0 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You could get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

It doesn't have a USB input, and so wouldn't obsolete the Outlaw's DAC.

u/lenny_was_framed · 0 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I like the klipsch 2.1 for desktop use. Enough bass for an enjoyable experience, I found the sound improved significantly when I added a cheap external DAC like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1518053261&sr=8-5&keywords=dac&dpID=41XxS0L762L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch