Reddit Reddit reviews Fluke Networks 26000900 Pro3000 Tone Generator and Probe Kit with SmartTone Technology

We found 40 Reddit comments about Fluke Networks 26000900 Pro3000 Tone Generator and Probe Kit with SmartTone Technology. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Electrical Equipment
Tools & Home Improvement
Fluke Networks 26000900 Pro3000 Tone Generator and Probe Kit with SmartTone Technology
Tone and trace wire on non active networks; SmartTone technology provides 5 distinct tones for exact pair identification; Battery: 9 volt alkalineSends a loud tone up to 16 kilometer (10 miles) in most cables and provides 5 distinct cadences for isolating individual wire pairsPrecise SmartTone technology provides five distinct tones for exact pair identification, replaceable tipPro3000 unfiltered probe with ergonomic sleek design, loud speaker is audible in noisy locations, 3.5 millimeter headphone jackPush button switch selects Solid, Alt and Off
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40 Reddit comments about Fluke Networks 26000900 Pro3000 Tone Generator and Probe Kit with SmartTone Technology:

u/Mozambique_Drill · 32 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

Tl;dr: I need chocolate a toner.


Seriously: 8 hours to find a bunch of cables going to a patch panel? Go buy this NOW.

u/jgmachine · 21 pointsr/sysadmin

A cable toner, something like this.

u/gba_13 · 18 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

Going to try to save other sysadmins from this question in the future.

Buy one of these:

You clamp the generator onto a wire, and it sends the signal down it. Anytime the probe is near that wire it makes noise. You can basically just run it along the ceiling/wall and follow it from source to destination. This model I linked is actually a little fancy and has an RJ11 plug on it so you don't have to clamp/potentially damage something.

u/GrandfatherRat · 14 pointsr/AskEngineers

You want a fluke tone and trace probe. Pos and neg alligators grab the wire, and send a tone down it. The probe part is separate, and seeks the tone like a metal detector. Once found, short the wire and the tone dies to confirm. We use this tool all the time in networking. Double edit; if you have a single conductor wire you can clip the neg lead to a local ground or metal frame and it will send tone.

Edit: analog version-- check local pawnshops for used ones. Theres also a digital version.

u/bmf_bane · 5 pointsr/networking

You're on the right track with pulling everything into a patch panel. If it were me, I would look at hiring a low voltage firm to actually do the work, including the labeling and testing of all the drops. If there is a good service loop for those existing cable runs you can probably re-use them.

I would look at getting something like this: and have your network equipment and patch panel all in the enclosure.

If you end up tracing/labeling yourself, you can accomplish this with a toner. Something like this would work to assist:

Simply connect the probe at the drop and tone out the cable at the closet, then label the drop and cable (ideally the cable will be run into a patch panel though) - Much easier as a 2 man job to avoid having to run back and forth a bunch. Either way, I still recommend hiring a cabling company, they'll do it quicker and better than you probably can, and you may avoid connectivity issues down the road due to bad punchdowns.

u/NinjaCoder · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You need a tone and probe kit, like this one, or this one. You can't use it on a live circuit, and some cheap ones like this are not as sensitive as pro-versions, but you can use it to find wires and cables behind drywall.

u/toieo83 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is what you need.

Fluke Networks 26000900 Pro3000 Tone Generator and Probe Kit

I'm a network tech with 15 years exp, use these allllll the time for tracing cables. It's pretty self explanatory to use. You'll plug one end into the jack and turn it on. Make sure it's on the "tone generator" and not "continuity" setting. Should have a light that lets you know which signal it's sending out. You'll then take the wand and go to the IT Closet and grab a handful of cable, hold the button on the wand, and wave the wand through the cables. When the cable you're looking for is found the wand will make music that sounds like an ice cream truck.

You might have issues finding it, takes a little practice and depending on a lot of things the tone could bleed over to multiple cables so you need to make sure you're receiving a good strong tone. It'll be louder when the signal is strong. Also if the cable you're looking for is patched into a switch you will not get a tone BUT if it is, you shouldn't have any issues just plugging your access point in.

The only other issue is you might need an IT guy to allow the AP onto the network. I know you said you pay for it but someone maintains the server room. It can get more complicated than just plugging an AP in unfortunately.

u/FlavorJ · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Basically use a switch as a "splitter". Here's a toner probe:

You don't really need the toner if the switch has enough ports for each line, or at all really for a small job like that, but they're nice to have for cabling.

u/Scism9 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

A tone generator and a probe would help you trace which cable goes where.

u/justonemorevodka · 3 pointsr/techsupport

> Sperry Instruments ET64220 Lan Tracker Wire Tracer

Toner, go with Fluke

> Rosewill Network/PC Service Tool Components RTK-146 Grey

I have had better luck piecing my tool kit together with better tools than buying a complete toolkit like the Rosewill. There are a couple items in that kit I would never use and some I would want a better quality.

> InstallerParts 10 Piece Network Installation Tool Kit

Looks like a good kit with the items you need.

> Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015

I don't have one so I will not comment on if that particular model/brand is good

>Gigabit RJ45 Loopback Tester

Just make your own. Don't waste your money there.

You also might look into getting a 1000ft box of cat5e cable. Don't have to get most expensive. And choose a neutral color, like grey or white. Also you will want to grab a 100pc RJ45 ends bag and 10-20 RJ45 keystone jacks with wall plates. Fishtape and or Fishpoles. Spare Keyboard, Mouse, Old VGA monitor, external HDD, USB SATA adapter

That's all I can think of right now. I have picked up so much more along way. I have spare powerstrips, Cheap mini 5-port switches, Spare wireless routers, and a plethora of diverse cables. All OS images. I might come back and add to this, but I'm tired and think this is a good starting point.

u/acr_vp · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I've been in this situation, it sucks but it doesn't have to be that bad. First get one of these That will let you trace the wiring through the walls and make things 1,000x easier. Heck these days there are even cooler things out there like this thing

We also didn't "gut it to the studs" but we did make lots of holes in drywall. What I did that was super helpful, was use a big hole saw for most of the holes the drywall, then all the holes were the same size, they were clean holes, and very quick and easy to patch.

u/thomassowellistheman · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

It's a bit of a longshot, but you can use a tone generator and inductive amplifier to try to trace the wire. [This] ( is the one I use for work. You would plug the tone generator into one of the CAT5e cables, and I'd suggest setting the tone to "warble". The tone generator sends a signal down the wire the the inductive amplifier picks up and, well, amplifies. Generally, these are used when you can already see a bunch of wires and are just trying to find the right one. However, it's possible if you ran the probe around the top of your walls in the house that you could get close enough to hear the tone and trace the cable.

u/K_cutt08 · 3 pointsr/PLC

Get a "Fox and Hound"

It's a device that generates a signal on a wire then you can detect it along the way with the wand on the other half.

There are several different types of these and other brands.

u/locutusofborg780 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

First of all, does the wall plate in your office have just 1 phone line? 2 or all 4?

All 4 would be ideal, but you need at least 2 for this to work because Ethernet needs at least 2 pairs of wires.

Also if you only have 2 pairs of wires then you'll only get 100Mbit Ethernet. Gigabit Ethernet requires all 4 pairs.

This job would be made easier with a Tone & Probe kit (also known as a Toner). Simply plug the tone generator into the phone jack in your office, then go down to the basement with the probe and use it to identify the correct pair of wires.

Once you identify the pair of wires, you're going to have to remove all 4 pairs of wires (BlueWhite/Blue, OrangeWhite/Orange, GreenWhite/Green, BrownWhite/Brown) from the patch panel (the thing you showed in the picture)

It looks like you've got plenty of wire there to work with. Instead of crimping an RJ-45 plug directly on to the wire (and definitely DO NOT just twist the wires together), I would recommend punching the wire down to a surface-mount RJ-45 jack like this one.

You'll need a punchdown tool like this

As far as the jack in the office, You'll need to replace that too. You'll probably need to replace the wall plate as well.

Edit to make more clear

Only IF you have only 2 pairs of wires in the office

Then punching down the RJ45 jacks is a bit trickier. You still follow the [TIA-568B standard] ( but you leave the Blue and Brown wires out (Pins 4,5,7 and 8).

It's going to be a bit confusing because the colors of the wires won't necessarily match the chart. Just make sure that you punch down each end of the cable the same way. Remember, you'll only be punching down pins 1,2,3 and 6.

Hope that helps. Good luck! :)

u/jpeezy37 · 2 pointsr/HVAC

Thats is why I bought a wire toner lol. put one end on the wire in the apt and it beeps when you find the other end. I hate how the apt maintenance guys usually write the address on them with black marker and it fades away in a couple months. Sometimes the put a a stcker or the marker lasts longer under the disc panel. Good luck.

u/jhs0108 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

you can buy something like and plug it into the port nearest where your router is now and then put the probe on every wire going into the panel until you get a beeping sound. Now that you know which one it is on the panel plug a ethernet cable from one of the LAN ports on your router to the wall and plug the panel's side into a switch.

u/holey_guacamoley · 2 pointsr/networking

Because it has a few more features, and is digital instead of analog? I have this one and it's kind of a pain in the ass sometimes. I'd definitely be interested in seeing if a digital toner would be worth the extra $$.

u/multiball · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

Some toners come with alligator clips that should work, just hook one to the middle copper and the other to the nut.

u/pogidaga · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The previous owner may have used those cables for phone. Even if he did the ends can be cut off and replaced with RJ-45 jacks for your Local Area Network. Hiring somebody qualified to sort it out for you is probably the best option. However, if you want you could buy a tone & trace tool to figure out which parts of the demarc spaghetti go to your future office.

u/cynical_euphemism · 1 pointr/homeowners

If you're somewhat familiar with electrical wiring, I'd say grab a tone generator & probe and trace the various leads from there - I've mostly used the RJ-45 stuff, but pretty sure there's 120VAC compatible stuff out there. (Technically, I'm sure they'd all work... some are just a little more user friendly to various specs than others)

If you're not familiar with electrical wiring... a tone generator plugs into one end of a wire and sends a signal down it. You can then take the probe (a fancy speaker) and poke it around listening for the signal to find the other end of the wire. Once you find all the ends, switches, junctions, etc you can build a pretty decent wiring diagram. Make sure you kill the breaker before plugging anything in, and keep in mind anything designed for low voltage might not have enough power to drive a signal over larger gauge AC wiring.

Personally, I'm partial to the Fluke brand - they're basically the defacto name brand in the industry, and a quick search turned up this one.

Happy to answer questions or elaborate, either here or via PM.

u/PatrickMorris · 1 pointr/electricians

I've always just used a simple Fluke Toner. I don't know why you'd have to spend $1000 or something like this.

u/PhobicCarrot · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I recently did this for my home. Thankfully, the AT&T gateway is located where my phone lines all come together. Since the lines were labelled, I thought this would be an easy project, however, they were all labelled WRONG.

Thankfully, I had a Toner like this [one] (

u/DKaine · 1 pointr/talesfromtechsupport

I've been working on fitting the insides of an inductive probe from a Fox and Hound into a sonic screwdriver. After that I may fit an Arduino Micro into one pre-programmed with some useful features. Not entirely sure what those features will end up being, though.

u/kilbus · 1 pointr/DIY

To determine which goes to where you need a sniffer, I recommend Fluke

clip on the wire in the room you want active then "sniff" the wires in the mech room

Theres no way out of crimping your terminations. So sniff the ones you want active and only do those. Cat 5 is a PITA if you've never done it before. After you do about 20 you'll be a pro.

Also the mech room is where the router (and most likely modem) will be

Theoretically you could place the modem in another room and run cat 5 from there to the router which has to be in the mech room but that seems complicated to me located

u/joshlove · 1 pointr/sysadmin

When I was a field tech, mostly working with structured cabling and networking equipment I took the following along with me, some of these things are no longer needed with VOIP phones though:

u/kelsiersghost · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

> Currently the main coax line goes through the basement direct to the 1st floor wall outlet, then coax to the modem.
I’ve made a drawing of how I understand the internet could go to the splitter, then run again to the 1st floor outlet, then to the modem.

Ideally, you'd have zero interruptions between the coax coming from the street, all the way to the plug on the modem. Since it sounds like the coax enters the walls to the first floor from the basement, just be sure you eliminate any coax splitters by using a barrel adapter
UNLESS you also want a coax drop for Cable TV elsewhere in the house.

Then it's just a matter of making sure you've simplified the circuit to the street using the fewest number of splitters as you can. Each two-way split introduces approximately 3.5dB of loss (a little more than 50%) of power lost. Splitters are also known to be super poorly made and absolutely go bad after a few years of use. You may consider replacing any that you're using. These are decent ones.

> I'm feeling bold

Two of those ethernet strips there in the basement look like basic patch panels. They're just for organizing the cables and don't do any switching, per se. I'd figure out what connections you actually need in the house, beyond maybe a ethernet connection to the modem, the TV and your desktop PC and then go through and eliminate everything else. If you want to double check where the lines are terminated to through the massive web of cables, you can pick up an Ethernet Probe and Test kit to make tracking everything down easier. I'd (ideally) only buy one that has a dedicated ethernet jack and is made by Extech, Fluke, or Klein. As a bonus, It's a handy tool for tracing out ANY sort of wiring, too.

Once you eliminate all the unnecessary stuff, you can start making it look nice. Use some velcro wire ties and bundle everything until it looks respectable. You MAY find that you have odd-length cables used as patch cables between the switch and the patch panel. Don't cut anything, and maybe lay out anything you eliminate by length so you can reuse them if your now-neat-looking bundle could benefit from different-length cables. Don't forget to label everything for clarity using your own philosophy.

> I’m not sure how to use this stuff, if it’s past it’s prime, or if I should even bother. But, If it could be useful I’d like to use it. I just don’t understand it despite reading the sticky’s, etc.

You'll feel a lot more comfortable once you understand what everything is and where it all goes.

All that cable is probably Cat5 or Cat5e at best. If you want to be ready for gigabit speeds in the coming years, you might consider running some new Cat6a or better. I don't know anything about the big switch in the photos, but it's probably doing the job fine for now - If you want faster than 100mbit/s network speeds though, you'll need to upgrade it along with the ethernet. As with the ethernet, it's not a priority, just a nice-to-have.

The big coax amplifier you've got there was probably built in 1974 (note: pre-internet) and is all kinds of lossy/noisy mess. I'd go ahead and get rid of that and anything coax-related that you don't think you'll end up using. There's better stuff available on the market now for stupidly cheap, if you decide that you still need an amplified coax signal.

I'd love to see more pictures once you get it all put together and looking nice. If you need any further hardware advice, let us know!

u/KendleC · 1 pointr/DIY
u/drMonkeyBalls · 1 pointr/ITdept

For Tone gen, Fluke makes the gold standard. They also have a cheaper version.
You didn't mention a probe, so maybe you are looking for a cable certifier?. That's super expensive though. if you just have to test that there is continuity and not certify the cables, you can use this, or this if you want to look like a pro.

As for Screwdrivers, Wiha makes the best screw drivers, hands down. I have this set for working on electronics & laptop repair. Magnetic tool-kits are fine. This isn't the 80's anymore. There aren't too many magnetically sensitive items inside a computer anymore. especially with the advent of SSD drives.

As for a toolbox, depending the work, I prefer a tool bag or pouch.

Good luck, hope that helps. What helped for me when I started was to go to harbor freight and just get an assortment of tools. As I worked I slowly replaced the stuff I used all the time with quality gear, and didn't have to burn myself buying expensive tools and gear that I would never use.

u/oakleaf12 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice I'm thinking about this one. Would you consider it one that would work well for automotive applications?

u/theamishllama · 1 pointr/techsupport

It doesn't look like any of the cables/ports have any information on them. You may call whoever "services" this panel and see if they have any documentation or you can buy a toner:

Which will allow you to plug into the outlet upstairs and see where its punched in downstairs.


However, I see some cut cables in the box and they very well could be the ones wired to upstairs so you would have to remove one of the existing cords (which very well could disconnect something that is currently working) to hook up a new one.

u/ScannerBrightly · 1 pointr/DIY

I do this at work a bunch, but we have something that looks like this tone generator and wand. One side clips to the cable and makes a noise in the line. The wand is something you can wave over (and in and around) the wall panel wires and see which one of them makes the noise.

Easy as pie, but pricey. I bet any friend who works IT in a company larger than 50 people has one at work. Also, telco guys always have one.

u/indigoataxia · 1 pointr/sysadmin

We have 3, 2 Greenlee's and 1 Fluke. The Greenlee's are the AT8LK and the 701K-G. The Fluke is the Pro3000 BUT it has never really worked right. I would thoroughly recommend the Greenlee's.

u/Lachlan91 · 1 pointr/electrical

An F-set (Tone generator) will help with this. All circuits will need to be off though, or at minimum the circuit you are attaching the tone generator to.

For example:

You clip the leads to wires. It transmits a frequency across the wires. The receiver will warble when it is proximity to any wire with the frequency being transmitted over it, which will help you trace it out.

u/nonpossumus · 1 pointr/electricians
u/Vaporware371 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

First thing, I'm assuming that there is a corresponding port or cable, where the ethernet port that is in your room comes out in the basement, and you've connected it to your router? Following that assumption, I'd think that there are multiple cables/ports near your router that come from all around the house, and you've connected these (or at least the one from your room) to the back of your router?

If that is the case (that you have cables connected to your router coming from these outlets), the first easy test to do would be to make sure that the right cable is connected to your router. To save running upstairs each time, you could leave the computer plugged in, and try different cables in the back of the router until it lights up for one.

If that doesn't work, you'll have to do a bit more digging. First, are they actually ethernet cables? Look at where the cables come out downstairs, or remove the faceplate of the outlet and look. The cable should say CAT5, CAT5e, or CAT6. You can run networking over CAT3 as well, but long lengths might cause slower connections.

If the cabling looks good, the next go-to would be to make sure it was terminated correctly. This is not an uncommon mistake if the installer didn't know what they were doing. If both ends of the cable are terminated in jacks, this is easy. Unscrew the wall jack, and look at the spot where the cable is stripped and pressed into the back of the connector. There should be 8 notches, each with a color code (e.g. blue/white, red, etc). The wire going into each notch should match up with this color. If the cables that come out in your basement are set up in a patch panel, it's easy to tell there as well. For each end, make sure that all the wires are pressed fully into each notch.

If it is hard to tell, or one end of the cable is crimped with a plug, instead of ending in a patch panel, you may want to look into an Ethernet cable tester, which will tell you if all the wires inside the cable are correctly set up. If after all of this, you are still not sure which wire that you see in the basement is the one going up to your room, you may need a toner, which will let you easily determine which wire is which. You'll plug the device into the outlet in your room, then go to the basement and hold the probe over each Ethernet cable while holding its button: when you move it over the correct cable, you'll hear a beeping tone.

You're lucky to be somewhere with structured cabling added: I've seen far too many new-construction homes, even quite high end, that either have no network cabling, or it's half-assed (which may be the issue in your case). You'll hope that they just didn't put the connectors on the cables correctly, or that they labelled things wrong, because this is an easy fix. Some places give you a nice cabinet where everything comes out, but the cables don't have any actual connectors applied: also an easy fix, but kind of an unfinished job. More troublesome would be if they cut/kinked a cable somewhere in the wall, because that is less trivial to solve.

u/ggibby · 0 pointsr/hometheater

Any home theater receiver will have connections for each speaker, but you'll still want a powered sub.

A tone generator saves a LOT of time finding & labeling your wires.

I suggest lurking eBay for a Niles SI1230 or similar for the rest of your rooms.

Connecting Chromecast dongles or AirPort Express makes control from a 'phone intuitive.

Read thrice - buy once, and have fun!