Reddit Reddit reviews Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch

We found 15 Reddit comments about Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Pet Supplies
Reptiles & Amphibian Supplies
Reptile & Amphibian Habitat Lighting
Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch
Rated for up to 150 wattsThe perfect lamp for reptiles that like to bask.Equipped with a dimmer that allows you to control the heat/light.
Check price on Amazon

15 Reddit comments about Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch:

u/LonesomeObserver · 6 pointsr/Hedgehog

Another male? Aspen is ok though carefresh or better yet (and certainly cheaper in the long run) fleece. You can just go to a Joann's or walmart or any hobby/sewing store and buy some fleece. Toss it in the wash as needed with an extra set in reserve. Cat food is what you should transition him to, high quality. I do blue buffalo cat food personally. It will last you a VERY long time. Hedgehog food is never as good for them as it should be. I will provide some amazon links for things you should probably get, the main one that you should but not quite have to if you have a room in the proper temp range is 72-80 degrees. Please come over to Hedgehogs Anonymous on Facebook request to join, then once you are in simply go to the files and take a look at them. I am a college student myself so I do my best to keep costs low though obviously start up costs will be high but after that its really quite cheap mostly (aside from possible vet visits).

Modular shelving can be the cage and gives him plenty of open room to roam and play around. This is the shelving I personally use and can vouch for. I have a 3x3 grid so 9 sq ft. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LGZOR6A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the food I get for my Sophie. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KU55KD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heating set up, again this is only if you need it and can keep the temp in the right range naturally. I dont know where you live so I do not know what your winters are like but if you get temps in the 50s or lower I do recommend it. Another preventative measure is to put the cage a foot or so off the ground, will actually keep your temps a few degrees higher than on the ground.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DHO6S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ceramic Heat Emitter - Use this and NOT a heat light or something for reptiles, they need to have a period of darkness to be naturally awake 12/12 light on/off schedule All that the CHE does is emit heat, no light.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CZ0J3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thermostat with a temp probe. Plug the CHE lamp into this and it automatically turns the CHE on and off to keep the temp in the right range.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003H200QC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The lamp part to plug the CHE bulb into.

Hide - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068K132/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mint Stick (it seems all hedgies love these things lol)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8Q5JTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

food dishes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040B9NOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are all the bare essentials aside from a wheel. I and most other people will recommend the Volcano View Hedgehogs bucket wheel or Carolina Storm bucket wheel.

I was just trying to be a thorough as possible without really leaving out anything. Again please join us over at Hedgehogs Anonymous on facebook. Everyone in the group absolutely loves helping everyone with a hedge. Any question that you may have can and will be answered fairly quickly. Most if not all members would recommend getting from a USDA certified breeder just so you know the full medical history of your baby and his parents. Its also generally cheaper as the cost from a breeder is generally around $200 though that depends on the coloring. I am by no means saying do not get him from your pet store you played with him at. I dont like pet stores having hedgehogs just because they are a more sensitive exotic animal that doesnt do well in a retail setting when you have to take care of hundreds of animals at once with high overhead. But if he is behaves well with you now then absolutely get him from there. He looks on the smaller side so hes pretty young.

Again please join us over at Hedgehogs Anonymous. Cant wait to see you and your baby on there. You could potentially take him home today with a cheap bin, simple fleece bolts and food and water dishs from what you have in your house and thatll last until the rest of your supplies are acquired.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/382631271838164/

u/octo_owl · 3 pointsr/snakes

I have ball pythons not sand boas, but what I use for ambient heat is a CHE (ceramic heat emitter). You would need a dome with a ceramic base because they can get very hot. I use this one , and the CHE can also be found on Amazon like this one . I also have mine on a dimming thermostat, since on/off thermostats can wear out the bulbs, but those can be pricey. I know some people will just use the dimmer knob for the dome, but you will need an infrared heat gun to check surface temps and adjust to make sure it’s not too hot, and check it regularly as it won’t adjust itself if your ambient temperature in your room fluctuates.

u/Vaporhead · 3 pointsr/snakes

Have you read any of the care sheets online and on the sidebar regarding these things?

If you're using bulbs, go with ceramic heat emitters. They dont emit light, and can be used 24/7 to maintain heat without disturbing sleep.

It would be a good idea to get a heat lamp that has a dimmer built in so that you can scale how much power is going to the bulb. Like this

You will also need thermometers, hygrometers, and thermostats.

u/doggofish · 2 pointsr/ballpython

Flukers brand sells a 5.5 and 8.5 inch dome that have a built in dimmer that I like for use with my CHEs. I find it really convenient not to spend a ton on both parts, a dome AND a dimmer or thermostat.

On Amazon or Chewy.com, usually one of the sizes is around $10, it seems to swap around a bit over time which is cheaper, the other is usually around $20, so I have 2 of each now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003H200QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550070434&sr=8-5&keywords=flukers&dpPl=1&dpID=51yIKsky5IL&ref=plSrch

u/ItsMeSwamp · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Ceramic heater bulb (type into amazon, produce no light and only heat) and get an 8.5” dome that’s dimmable (I ordered the flukers brand for $12 on amazon). This will allow you to use a 75 or 100w bulb and adjust it just right for him. It keeps my cage ~85 degrees. I had the issue with my baby beardie and that helps him stay cozy!

Edit: the products that I ordered for my set up!

Bulbs:
Wuhostam 100W 2 Pack Infrared Ceramic Heat Lamp,Black Reptile Emitter Bulb for Pet Coop Heater Chicken Lizard Turtle Brooder Aquarium Snake No Harm No Light ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXD4SMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mb3ADbCNAP3EB

Fixture:
Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H200QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jc3ADbT4HGZ0A

u/Diddleyfiddler · 2 pointsr/leopardgeckos

It sounds like 73F is your AIR temp, which is indeed too low for the hot side. We should address the FLOOR temp too but I'll get to that.
If you'd like something to provide heat but not visible light you could get a ceramic bulb. They JUST make heat, but you'll want to get something dimmable because you won't want your cage actually getting too hot. When I was doing my research before I bought my leo I remember 85F being the maximum air temp you want your hot side to be, so I keep mine at or under that. I personally keep my red heat bulb on at all times at the same level, so it naturally dips at night and during the day reaches peak air temps around 83 or so.
This is a ceramic heat bulb that might work: http://www.joshsfrogs.com/zilla-ceramic-heat-emitter-50-watt.html
Pair it with a dimmable fixture like flukers, here: http://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC
It's extremely convenient to be able to control the temperatures with that dimmer :) So you can use a bulb like that (ceramic) to heat your leo without the light. If you'd like a light for studying you can just use a lamp of any kind (a house lamp). It won't mess up your leos schedule, I don't believe. Especially since you'll turn it off and go to sleep for 5+ hours (sometimes less, I'm in college too) and let the room be in total darkness. I talked to someone who owned multiple crested geckos (which are nocturnal, not crepsecular, but still applies) and had them all in his dining room where he did work from home, sometimes until 1 or 2AM, and had his room lights on. it didn't bother them and he's been doing that for a long time. So based off of that I don't think you should worry. From my own experience with my leo, Noodles really loves when the room light is OFF (and it's completely dark in here excluding our computer screens and his incandescent heat bulb's red glow) but only when it's mealtime or playtime. He's not always in the mood. We keep our room lights on most nights and it's not that different from when we keep them off, which is nice.
Anyway tldr for your air heating problem I suggest a ceramic heat emitter bulb paired with some kind of dimmable lamp fixture like the Flukers I linked to provide the correct hot-side air temps while also not letting off any light.
For your lighting problem I think using a lamp in the room over your study area will be fine, or even just keeping the room light on. I don't think it's a huge deal based on others experiences as well as my own.
 
Now onto the floor temp/air temp problem. It sounds like you don't have anything to actually monitor the floor temp, which is more important than advertised on care sheets. You really need a temperature gun. You can get one easily for $20 on amazon, like where we got ours. http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B0053Y6IPE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459399701&sr=8-1&keywords=temperature+gun+reptile
The temperature gun will probably tell you that your hot side's floor temperatures are WAY higher than they need to be. This is what happened to us. Somehow I didn't know that the heat mat would reach temps higher than I wanted, why would it right (??)? Got the radar gun just because, (not believing I'd actually need it) and woopdeedoo 105+F floor temps on the hot side. 13F higher than what it was supposed to be! So we rushed and bought a thermostat immediately (on amazon they're half the price than at petco). If I were in your position I'd buy a thermostat as soon as I could, paired with a temp gun. http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459399998&sr=8-2&keywords=thermostat+reptile
That's a really highly rated thermostat on there :) What you do with it is this: you'll plug the thermostat into your heat mat (or the heat mat into the thermostat, I can't remember which), then place the probe that comes with it (a long cable with a little doodad at the end) in the cage as close as you can to the dry hide. Here's a pic of how I did mine: http://i.imgur.com/o1vyB0g.jpg Set the temperature on your thermostat to maybe 85F or something and in an hour or so measure the floor temperature with your radar gun. 92F is the optimal floor temperature right underneath the dry hide, so aim for that. Play around with it and get it just right. Be sure to check on the floor temps every once in a while to make sure everything's still working.

My apologies for this coming out as such a novel, and all the links (some don't like getting spammed but I like them for reference). If you already know all about the thermostat/temp gun stuff then I'm sorry haha! it's an easy fix, probably easier than replacing that heat mat (if it really is only producing 73F floor temps). P.S. regarding your gecko's eating situation- they're probably stressed and won't eat for a little bit. It's okay! They'll get hungry soon and will eat normally. My leo has been doing this stupid thing where he'll eat half of his normal dinner and then act like he's not interested anymore (just licking the worms and turning away), so I wait a halfhour and try again. Usually he'll eat some more after that, but then again he hasn't just changed locations and such. :) Good luck!

u/SmolderingDesigns · 2 pointsr/snakes

Well the CHE screws into the fixture. A CHE is basically just another kind of bulb that doesn't give off light so you need a fixture to screw it into and then the fixture gets plugged into the thermostat and the thermostat gets plugged into the outlet.

There are two basic kinds of fixtures for this. This type is what you want if you have a metal mesh lid on a glass tank. It will be on top of the lid aimed down into the cage. This type is used for wood or pvc cages with solid ceilings. The fixture will be mounted inside the cage on the ceiling and then have a metal safety cage installed around the fixture/bulb.

u/haylee345 · 1 pointr/tortoise

Get a dimmable lamp hood like this one and use any white light basking bulb. You can go to any hardware store and get a couple feet of chain for a couple dollars, and some screw in hooks to hang it from. If you use the clamp it could fall and burn your tort or catch the substrate on fire. And then get a point and shoot thermometer gun like this one to check the temp directly under the bulb. Putting a piece of slate for your tort to lay on under the lamp is also a good idea. About $1 for a square foot or you could look for a broken piece they may give you for free.

u/problemcat · 1 pointr/Sculpture

I highly recommend the lamp setup, it's set-and-forget. Here's the dimmable clamp lamp: Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H200QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3zWMAbNC0YH2F you will also need an incandescent heat bulb or ceramic heat emitter.

Other methods I have tried to varying success: place small amounts in a tray in a toaster oven to keep warm, then remove the tray as necessary. Have even tried coffee cup warmers for portable sculpting (totally melts the bottom, but works).

Sorry, I know your original question was about solvents--I have never used any on monster clay and I asked the cashier of a mold supply store once if there were any and he said he had no idea, as it wasn't really done. Sometimes its a painstaking matter of raking an area, looking at it from a ton of angles, rinse repeat. Some imperfections are way easier to just sand out after you cast the mold.

u/rambologic · 1 pointr/turtle

Good question. I have actually thought about this issue myself.. while there are commercial options to raise or lower your lights, there are several simple solutions you might want to try.

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One that comes to mind is creating a lamp stand. This serves two purposes, to both lift the lights up as well as move them off of the tank to help prevent the lights from possibly falling into the tank.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxN8_0kNJPc

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It does have its downfalls though, mainly being that it's ugly. Painting it black will make it less noticeable.

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Another option is making an ATBA (Above Tank Basking Area). If you look those up, there are a bunch of ideas on how to make one. It's what the name suggests: a basking area that is built to bring the turtle out of the top of the tank. This maximizes swimming space and can provide a large basking area, all cheaply if you DIY it.

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Another option I like and use is the Fluker's dimmable light. You can use it for your heat lamp. Since it is ceramic, it will handle the heat lamp, and with the dimmer, you can adjust how strong your heat lamp is. I have been using this light with a heat lamp for several months now without issue.

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https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC

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I know it's a lot to think about, but eventually you will want to give your turtle a larger home, and more swimming space.. so looking into these things little by little now will make the decisions later on easier to handle, rather than all at once.

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Cheers!

u/Splatini · 1 pointr/Hedgehog

I haven't heard of anyone using those. It looks interesting but a couple things I can think of:

If that power symbol on the top left is a light, it may disturb your hedgehog.

It says it has two heat settings with a built-in thermostat. If those settings aren't an appropriate temperature, you may need an additional thermostat. Redundancy is always good with heaters anyway in case of failure.

I wouldn't place it within reach of the hedgehog despite it saying zero clearance.


Most people use these types of heat products:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1at8Bb48DVR65

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H200QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Lct8BbWJYR774

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Cdt8BbH1E5YHF

u/advwench · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

The one I have is from Fluker's.

u/ItzMrFatRabbit · 1 pointr/ballpython

Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H200QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vgRzDbYRCNEF6

u/eleanorkitty · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

I don't know the answer to the body temp question, but I got a fixture with a dimmer function for my CHE and it has been so helpful. I dial it up or down to help balance the temperature as needed. (https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC)