Reddit reviews Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Impact Bullet Puller for Reloading
We found 24 Reddit comments about Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Impact Bullet Puller for Reloading. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
SPECS: 12” L x 5” WVERSATILITY: 3 different sized collets included allows you to pull bullets from almost any caliber from .22 Hornet to 45-70, rimmed or rimlessEASE OF USE: Works with one stern "whack" to separate bullet from brassDURABLE: Constructed of lightweight aluminum and heavy-duty plasticINCLUDES: 1 hammer, 3 collets and 4 o-rings
Frankford Arsenal powder trickler. Compact, nice heavy base for stability, even flow. I also have an RCBS trickler and hate it. It's not as stable and the dispensing arm thingy is a weird two piece design that never seem to flow well for me.
GemPro 250 digital scale. Do not waste your money on cheaper options. I don't have experience with the chargemaster type of scale. I like to do things manually.
Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Best stuff there is. Works amazingly well. I also keep a lanolin/alcohol spray lube around for doing large batch work, but Imperial Sizing Wax does a better job.
Hornady Bullet Comparator set. You don't mention what cartridges you're reloading. THIS KIT DOES NOT INCLUDE 6.5mm. There's a 14 insert kit that includes more, or you can buy just the few inserts you need.
Frankford Arsenal bullet puller. I buy what's cheap. These don't last forever. All the hammering eventually cracks the plastic. I've tried several brands and they all break eventually. I usually keep two on hand.
So that covers what you already know you need. Here are some more recommendations.
Hornady 9th Edition. I use this more than all my other manuals combined. I shoot a lot of Hornady bullets, though. If you already have a favorite bullet brand, you should buy that brand's manual.
Lyman Shooters Check Weights. I use these every single time I reload. I like knowing that my scale isn't lying to me. Digital scales can be finicky sometimes! These are worth every penny.
Hornady Headspace Comparator set. This is a lot like the bullet comparator set, except that it measure to the shoulder of the case instead of the ogive of the bullet. If you're planning on monitoring the amount you're bumping your shoulders during resizing, this is what you need.
Lyman Case Prep Multi-Tool. The chamfer tool that came with your kit will do the job, but this Lyman multi tool is my preferred method. It also comes with primer pocket scrapers that will be useful, and primer pocket reamers you should throw away and never use.
RCBS Uniflow Powder Baffle. This will help your uniflow powder measure throw more consistent charges.
RCBS Advanced Powder Measure Stand. If you're going to do a permanent installation of your powder measure on your bench, you will want this stand. Its price is absurd, but it's a great stand.
RCBS Universal case loading block. Your kit came with one, but you need at least one more.
What is your plan for cleaning brass? Wet tumbling with steel pins is the way to go. I have the Frankford Arsenal unit. It's huge and noisy. If I had it to do over I would purchase the dual drum tumbler from Harbor Freight and buy steel pins from Amazon.
Redding dies don't come with shellholders. Did you remember to get one?
What is your plan for case trimming? You don't mention what you're reloading. The cheapest option, which is actually my preferred method, is the Lee case length gauge and shellholders with their cutter and lock studs.
There are some additional case prep tools, but they would depend on what you're doing. If you are dealing with brass that has military crimps, you'll need tools to deal with that. There are primer pocket brushes, primer pocket uniformers, flash hole deburring tools, and a million other little things.
That's all that's coming to mind right now. I'm sure I missed some stuff.
> American Weigh Digital Scale, 100g [0.01g sensitivity $10.42 Qty: 1
You probably want to go with something that displays in grains, otherwise you'll need to convert all of measurements from grams/oz. I use this one and it is ok.
You're gonna mess up.
You'll probably also want some way to store / carry the rounds you've made.
I'd also recommend a case gauge. I don't remember which one I bought, lyman maybe? ABCs of reloading too, if you haven't read that yet.
>Seating Die:
Seating dies push the bullet down into the case and for pistol cases remove the belling done by the expanding die. Many seating dies can optionally apply a crimp, though some people dislike this because the bullet is still being pushed downward as the crimp is applied. Some seating dies come with multiple or reversible seating stems, this allow you to seat different profiled bullets(FMJ/Ball, Spitzer, VLD, etc) bullets without damaging them.
>Crimp Die:
Crimping dies push the case mouth into the jacket/lead of the bullet. This helps secure the bullet from ‘walking’ out of the case under recoil. There are taper crimps, often used in semi-auto oriented rounds that start from the base of the bullet and slowly narrow as it moves upwards towards the bullet and roll crimps which fold the very edge of the case mouth inwards. Roll crimps are often used on revolver cartridges like 44mag or 38spl and rifle rounds. Taper crimps are used on things like 9mm.
>Factory Crimp Die:
A Factory Crimp Die or FCD is kind of like a fail safe. If a bullet is slightly too large or that particular round didn’t get seated far enough a FCD will correct the mistake. It doesn’t make an unsafe round(say from a bad powder charge) safe to shoot, but it will help make sure all your rounds chamber. Since many people don’t like to seat and crimp on the same step, they use their FCD as their only crimp die.
>Powder Check Die:
A powder check die has a small free floating ram in the middle that drops into the case. It provides an easy way to spot check powder levels based on how high it raises. Some powder check dies will lock the press when they detect an over/under charge. In practice the low powder volume and wide case can make powder check dies unreliable for pistol loads. If you do use a powder check die you shouldn’t let it lull you into a sense of false security, you should still be visually checking your charges.
>Powder Throwers:
This isn’t a “die” so much, but many do fit directly onto your press. They dispense or ‘throw’ a specific charge of powder every time they are activated. Do to the nature of how they work how accurate they are depends on the type of powder you are using. Flake powders and long extruded powders measure with much more variation than ball or short stick powders. Throwers come in three flavors; Case activated, manual, and press activated. Press activated throwers dispense powder anytime the press ram is moved up. This is fine for a single stage press, but on a progressive press it is just a big mess waiting to happen. A manual powder thrower has a small handle you actuate anytime you want to dispense powder. These are great, as long as you don’t forget to pull the lever for every case. Case activated throwers only dispense powder when a case goes into them. These are great, especially on progressive presses.
>Bullet Feeding Die:
Bullet feeding dies place a bullet into the belled/charged case. With a bullet feed die you don’t need to manually place a bullet for each round. While the dies themselves are 20-40 dollars they won’t always save you time without an automatic bullet feeder hopper which can cost several hundred dollars. Only useful on progressive presses.
>Case Feed:
Again this isn’t technically a die, but it attaches to your progressive press and places a new case into your shell plate automatically. These are specific to your press and usually cost several hundred dollars.
Many powder throwers can be given a PTX add on that will expand as well as charge the case. On a progressive or turret press this saves you a spot on your press and on a single stage it saves you from having to do a separate belling step.
Shell Plates
Most die sets come with a shell holder of a matching caliber to keep the brass in the press. However if you are buying your dies piecemeal you’ll need to get a shell holder set. Progressive presses use “shell plates” which hold multiple rounds at a time. These can be proprietary and will need to be purchased separate from your dies.
Lee shell holder set $27.99
Hornady LnL AP shell plate 9mm $24.64
Case Trimmer
When a round is fired the case is under such extreme pressure that the brass actually acts like a plastic. It expands outwards in all directions until the chamber stops it. In front of the round however there is nothing to stop the brass from flowing. Because of this the brass grows in length. After a few firings the brass may be too long to fit in the chamber of a gun again. To combat this after sizing your brass(which further alters its dimensions) you measure it. If it is too long you need to cut some of that excess off with a case trimmer until it is the proper size again. This is primarily only a concern for rifle brass.
Case trimmers can be free hand, manual, and motorized. Free hand allows you to remove brass, but requires you to check with a case gauge often to ovoid over trimming. Manual trimmers allow you to set a certain length to cut to and do all rounds to that length rotating a small lever by hand. Motorized trimmers allow you to set a length and very quickly trim a large amount of cases. Some manual trimmers can have drills attached to make them faster. Not all motorized trimmers can handle multiple calibers.
Lee Zip Trim $21.99 and Lee Cutting Ball $9.99
Lyman Universal Trimmer $82.99
World’s Finest Trimmer .223 $75.95
Chamfer/Deburr tools
Chamfering removes a bit of metal from the inside lip of the case so that bullets seat more smoothly. Deburring is removing a small amount from the outside edge of the case mouth to help remove any burrs or flakes caused by chamfering. You don’t need to do either on pistol rounds as the case is belled wide enough to accept the bullet without it.
You can also chamfer primer pockets. This will make seating easier and in the case of crimped primer pockets it is required.
Again, there are manual and motorized options available. Motorized is worth it for anything above small batches.
Lee Chamfer Tool $3.99
Lyman Case Prep Multi Tool $22.99
Hornady Case Prep Trio $99.99
Bullet Puller
In the process of setting up your dies you’re going to make some dummy rounds. No primer, no powder, just case a bullet to dial in your case bell, seating depth, and crimp. You can just throw these rounds away. . . or you can get a bullet puller and recover your components. There are kinetic bullet pullers that work well with heavier bullets(125gr+ in my experience) and collet bullets that attach to your press.
Frankfort Arsenal Kinetic Bullet Puller $17.76
Hornady Cam-lock Bullet Puller $31.56
Grab a bullet puller, dump the powder and drip some oil in to saturate the primer to render it inert.
Once you have the puller, you can then slowly accumulate everything you need to get into reloading, so it's a win-win.
What kind of ammo are you looking to reload? Straight-wall ammo, like most pistol calibers, is slightly easier to reload.
You can get into reloading for about $300-$500.
Here is what you will need:
Before you get started, I highly recommend you read the book, "The ABC's of Reloading":
http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/0896896099/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381839707&sr=8-2&keywords=abc%27s+of+reloading
You can check it out at a library if you want to save money. This book covers all kinds of reloading from pistol to rifle to shotgun cartridges.
If you are going to reload any kind of necked cartridge, like most rifle cartridges and some pistol cartridges, these cases stretch in length when firing due to the force being applied to the neck along the axis of the cartridge. As such they have to be trimmed back to proper length prior to reloading. This requires a case trimmer. You will generally not need a case trimmer for straight-walled cartridges.
Reloading basically follows these steps:
There is a lot of debate as to whether single-stage, multi-stage, or progressive presses are best for new people.
A single-stage press has, as you would expect, a single stage. You have to swap out your dies as you move from each operation of reloading. The advantage here is cost and the fact that you can focus exclusively on each step of the process. Disadvantage is speed.
A multi-stage press has, as you would expect, multiple stages. This press holds all of your dies in one die plate, but you must manually change over from one die to the next. You still focus on each step of the process. Speed is a little faster as you do not have to re-set your dies every time you want to switch to a different die in the process.
A progressive press holds all your dies but automatically moves the cartridge from one station to the next with each stroke of the handle. The progressive press' advantage is speed. The disadvantage is that the user must keep an eye on multiple things happening simultaneously, most importantly the powder charging step.
I started off with a Lee Pro 1000, and it is still all I use. It is a bit twitchy in that you have to keep thumping the primer container to make sure the primer feed ramp stays full of primers or else it will start to mis-feed them. Also when the brass feed tubes start to run dry cartridges have a tendency to bounce off of the deck and scoot forward a bit getting caught under the die plate on the up-stroke, jamming the press. You have to push them back out of the way.
You will probably want to clean your brass before reloading it. It is not absolutely essential that you do so, but it requires a lot more force to ram dirty brass through your dies than clean brass. Also dirty brass can scratch up your dies, which then in turn pass those scratches on to your ammo. To clean your brass, you will want a tumbler and seperator.
If you are not using carbide dies you will need case lubricant and you will have to lubricate your brass before you run it through your dies. If you do not do this you will get brass stuck in your dies and you may have to send it to the factory to have it removed.
Note that I used Amazon links for the above but obviously shop around. Also I referenced mostly Lee items but likewise shop around. Lee is usually the cheapest but can be "twitchy" compared to more expensive models.
Do not randomly buy reloading components (powder, bullets, primer) and then try and find a recipe. It's much easier to find out what kind of powder is available to you locally and then find a recipe that uses that powder and buy bullets to match it. If you randomly buy whatever powder and bullets you can find you may have difficulty finding an existing recipe for that combination and will have to find something "close", which as a newbie I don't recommend. It's much easier to work with a known recipe for a specific powder and bullet and primer.
Always start with the lowest recommended charge and work up from there if you find it necessary. If you are building precision ammunition for optimal accuracy you will "work up a load" to find exactly how much powder for any given bullet gives the best accuracy for any given firearm. If you are just building plinking ammunition then use the lowest listed charge that reliably cycles the action of your firearm.
The most critical part of reloading is the powder charging step. If you build ammunition with too much powder in it it can explode and destroy the firearm and injure or even kill you. If you put too little or no powder in it you can make a "squib" where the primer will push the bullet out of the cartridge into the barrel, creating an obstruction, and if you fire the gun again it can explode, again with the risk of destroying the gun and injuring the shooter. It is important to eyeball every cartridge to make sure it is charged properly. And do spot-checks every 10th round or so with your scale to confirm the load.
get one of these off Amazon. Dump the powder in your lawn/garden. drop about a teaspoon of oil in each case to help deactivate the primer. Motor oil or even kitchen oils should do the trick. Or, put on hearing protection and put brass in a vice and pop the primers in a safe direction, or again, put on hearing protection and toss the primed brass in a camp fire with a fire extinguisher on hand and other fire safety equipment on hand in case any embers fly off unexpectedly.
> The only glaring omission I see is that you need a bullet puller.
Thanks for the suggestion. I just ordered this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7ZB4Q
www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-N-Ez-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ - $13 free prime shipping.
Have it in 2 days. Does not damage the bullet.
> https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Challenger/dp/B003ISVWC6
yes. i also got mine from amazon.
the parts that need improvement are discussed in the customer reviews near the bottom of the page. powder dispenser and scale are the items i remember getting lukewarm reviews. those parts are cheap to upgrade. so no worry.
you need dies for the caliber that you are reloading.
for some reason i have 2 sets of .223 dies. i know i purchased one, i'm not sure if the other came with the kit.
i purchased a 2" bench top cut off saw [$32]
a jig to cut my cases [$13] 300blk
a case length guage [$10] 300blk
ammo loading tray [$7]
dies [$39] for each caliber
digital caliper [$16]
frankford scale [$32]
frankford bullet puller [$16]
tumber kit [$75]
i spent a good month or so on /r/reloading before i actually purchased anything.
i asked questions and made a shopping list.
those guys are very helpful
research what you actually need for the caliber / bullet grain you want to reload before you buy anything.
double and triple check what powder you need as well. it could save your life.
i kinda over did it with supplies
haven't opened half the boxes yet.
So this review on Amazon is what my buying guide will consist of. My apologies for formatting, I am on mobile.
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I'm new to reloading, but I shoot a lot so instead of doing what every beginner should and buy a single stage press I saved up a little and got the AP press due to the fact I knew I would use it a lot. But after it came I quickly realized it was far more technical than I expected. I found out there were a lot of parts I still needed and a lot more money that still needed to be spent. I was fine with it bet I knew I would have to save up for a little bit to get it all. But after about 100 hours of reloading YouTube videos and four months I was able to actually start reloading. Wishing I had a guide right off the bat to tell me what I need and why I ended up making one for any other new beginner. So here it is.
Disclaimer: Do not follow my advice blindly, do your research on each piece of equipment. The prices I have stated are not set in stone, they were what I spent. I would advise you to shop around to get the best deals
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What you still need:
--Hornady Lock N Load Auto-Progressive Reloading Press
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD01NS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$462.64
Notes: Does not have to be this press
--Hornady Lock N Load Ap & Projector Shell Plate
http://www.hornady.com/store/Choose-Shell-Plate-by-Number/
$41.33
Notes: Each shell plate is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct plate for the caliber you are reloading. Here is the guide http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/shell_holder.pdf
--Hornady Shell Holder
http://www.hornady.com/store/Choose-Shell-Holder-by-Number/
$5.00
Notes: Each shell holder is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct holder for the caliber you are reloading. Although RCBS makes a similar looking holder, it will NOT fit in the Hornady setup. Here is the guide http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/shell_holder.pdf
--Reloading Dies
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD6PO2/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$43.89
Notes: All reloading dies from all companies are universal to each other's presses. So you don't have to stick to Hornadys dies (I do because I like them)
--Digital Scale
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$29.14
Notes: Digital scales are a little more expensive bet worth it for the time you save
--Digital Caliper
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JFMIO/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$10.60
Notes: Digital calipers are convenient for speed but if money is tight you can go traditional
--Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Cleaner-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B000LC9YM2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375560230&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+gun+cleaner
$13.28
Notes: Used when you put the press together and clean all the parts
--Hornady One Shot Spray Case Lube
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Spray-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B0001NA29U/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375560743&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+case+lube
$13.44
Notes: This or any case lube is an absolute need or your rounds will get stuck in the die. This one is cool because you don't have to wipe it off after you deprime and resize so if you have an AP bench like mine you can just keep going.
--Case Trimmer
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-50140-Camlock-Case-Trimmer/dp/B000PD6QJ6/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561942&sr=1-7&keywords=case+trimmer
$88.99
Notes: This will trim the case down to size. Needed because after firing the case expands
--Cartridge Reloading Guide
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Edition-Handbook-Cartridge-Reloading/dp/B00A95QWGM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375563579&sr=8-2&keywords=Reloading+guide
$39.80
Notes: Tells you the specifics of each round. There is a different manual for each projectile. So if you use Hornady bullets you will use their guide, RCBS you you'd use theirs, etc.
----------------------------------------------------
What you need to clean the brass:
--Case Tumbler
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Case-Tumbler-110-Volt/dp/B000PD1XE4/ref=sr_1_17?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375559938&sr=1-17&keywords=media+tumbler
$83.58
Used to remove the carbon from the rounds. I advise not to deprime before use because the media will get stuck in the primer hole.
--Tumbling Media
http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-287178-Brass-Cleaning/dp/B001GX8DS6/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561385&sr=1-4&keywords=tumbling+media
$20.10
The corn cob media is a little more fine grain and less likely to get stuck
--Metal Polish
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-9993-Case-Polish/dp/B002L9D8VQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561809&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+metal+polish
$14.17
You would put this in the tumbler with the rounds to give them a nice polish
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What I would recommend:
--Bullet Puller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17.15
Used when you mess up a round, it pulls the projectile out
--Primer Turning Plate
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPL80Q/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17.56
used to make sure the primers are set the right way before you put them in the primer tube
--Universal Ammo Reloading Tray
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-1536-480040-Universal-Loading/dp/B000GU8WU4/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1375559333&sr=8-3-fkmr2&keywords=universal+ammo+reloading+tray
$11.38
Used to hold your rounds for inspection, and helps with precision loading powder
--Case Prep Tool
http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Universal-Case-Prep-Accessory/dp/B0034LAVUG/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375562159&sr=1-2&keywords=case+prep+tool
$55.79
This is used after depriming and trimming to make sure all the holes are clean and free of debris
--Stuck Case Remover
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6ZJQ6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$18.99
Used in case you get a round stuck in the die
--Hornady Micrometer Rifle Lock N Load Powder Measure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1WOJ2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$27.99
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for rifle calibers
--Hornady Micrometer Pistol Lock N Load Powder Measure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPR300/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$39.89
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for pistol calibers
--Powder Cop
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003D6ZLXE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$30.57
Used to make sure you don't put more powder in than you should
--Hornady Lock N Load Die Bushing 10 Pack
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Bushing-Pack/dp/B00162OLTW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375563887&sr=8-1&keywords=Hornady+AP+die+bushing
$42.22
Would recommend if you are reloading multiple calibers, it makes change over much faster.
---------------------------------------------------
What you need for precision loading:
--Hornady Lock N Load Ammo Concentricity Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KZ3NNK/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$99.99
Only needed for precision reloading
--Powder Funnel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD1XI0/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$5.78
Used for more of an exact measurement
--Hornady Microjust Seating Stem
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GU9VU4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$24.99
Used to get an exact seating depth with the projectile
-----------------------------
I hope this helps! I will be making some tutorial videos soon and will post a link here.
first of all
Secondly, I assume you mean this one, the lee cast iron turret is a great press and it will work for most applications, If you need to do things not involving the turret (like decapping of w/e) you can just pull the index rod out(it just pops out when you take the dies out) and it won't spin anymore.
For tumbler I can say wet tumbling is best but not feasable for everyone and walnut tumbling works fine. The frankfort arsenal kit is good choice.
Lee dies and hand trimmers are cheap and work good too. I wouldn't worry about a trimmer for 40 or 9 but get one for sure for 223 and 30-06. cutter + Insert
there's some more basics like decent case lube and components themselves but it's a step in the right direction.
EDIT
***
additional recommended things would be a kinetic bullet puller, digital scale, and calipers.
It does add up quick but it will stabilize. I'm very new to this myself and after getting little things like a kinetic bullet puller you eventually get all the things you need. By the way, I don't bother with the collets that came with it, I just use the appropriate shell plate for the cartridge.
I'm loading three cartridges now (.270 Win, .223 and .45 ACP) and now only need primers, powder and projectiles to reload. To start loading a new cartridge, I'd also need dies, shell plates (if I don't already have it in a kit), and the three Ps.
Other things on my wish list are a powered case prep station (my hands wear out when dealing with crimped primers) and I see why higher end presses have a handle bar instead of the palm ball.
Anyway, sorry to ramble there, it sure feels good to make your first hand load, and feels even better to shoot. Congrats!
Opinions will vary wildly, but if you're going to start and really aren't sure if you'll stick with it, get a quality single stage press. Scour Craigslist and keep an eye out for deals on Amazon. If you don't stick with it a quality single stage will be easiest to get most of your money back on. If you like it, a quality single stage will always come in handy when you make special pet loads for accuracy, even if you upgrade to a progressive some day.
If you're fairly certain you're going to stick with it, and plan to load for bulk, a turret/progressive press hybrid like the Lee Classic Turret press where you can take the indexing rod out and use it as a single stage if need be might be a good middle of the road choice. Opinions on progressive presses vary and usually generate a lot of discussion, but for your current situation it's a great way to check off a lot of boxes, and it runs only slightly more than Lee's single stage.
As far as cheapest route without buying crap, not everything that's cheap is crap, but there are a few plces where not skimping gets you way more value. Because of this, you are much better off getting stuff separately to get better value. Buy the dies from whoever you want, .223 and 5.56 are the same set, and quality level is up to you. For most plinking purposes Lee is just fine, but if you're loading for a bolt action the Hornady or Redding dies can get you more accuracy for a lot more (relatively speaking) money. Then buy a good digital scale, a good chamfer and deburring tool (not that shitty Lee abomination. Seriously, fuck that thing. Your hands will thank you), a cutter (plus associated gauge and shell holder for a drill), a powder funnel, a puller for when you dick it up, and a nice set of calipers and you're off to a solid start for under $350.
> Hard to tell, but initially it looks to be an issue with the ammo. Bullets shouldn't just fall out of the casing.
They do in a lightweight magnum revolver if the crimp isn't very strong.
Same concept as a impact bullet puller
Welcome to one of the many deficiencies of revolvers.
That being said it's due to shitty ammo.
I reload 9mm and 5.56, here's my experience:
Instruction manual Seriously though, this guy is one of the best reloading resources around.
>I don't own a bullet puller
They are pretty cheap if you decide to pick one up. You don't need one, strictly speaking though. You can rip the bullet out with pliers, dump the powder, and then soak the primer.
>What's the proper way to dispose of these
There may be a couple of other options in your area.
Well get one then!
http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-N-Ez-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q
Yep. I have this Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-Ez Impact Bullet Puller https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jgcBybXCRRX17
Scarry as fuck the first few times you use it though! :-)
You'd have to buy a bullet puller. Like this.
[Make your own](http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-N-Ez-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335282942&tag=write-20&sr=8-1-fkmr0 "be sure to remove the primers too.").
I would recommend filling the casings with something to make them bottom heavy.
Don't forget a bullet puller:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=wl_mb_recs_1_title
Because mistakes will be made.
This is my current plan, tell me what you think I should do different.
Press
Bullet puller
Scale
Dies
Caliper
Book
Tumbler
Media
Media Seperator
Case Prep Tool
Trimmer And also the needed shell holder
http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit/1324071.uts ($50 mail-in rebate on this)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8JZL4?psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Small-Base-Die-223/dp/B000N8LIOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495571705&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+223+dies
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495571775&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+calipers
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Length-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B001RI7A66/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572110&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman+headspace+gauge
= $435, leaving $65 for your first round of components.
When your $50 rebate comes, I'd get this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572018&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+bullet+comparator
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-836017-Quick-n-EZ-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572088&sr=1-2&keywords=bullet+puller
This is basically my exact setup and I get great results from it.
Also, get a stuck case remover Sooner or later you will stick a case in a die.
The RCBS case lube pad is a PITA. Hornady one-shot case lube is much faster. You can make spray case lube with lanolin and alcohol (google it) but it smells like sheep.
I load for my Garand with standard RCBS dies, it is not likely that you will need the small base dies.
I have loaded tens of thousands of rounds in 23 calibers without using a case gauge. I have never needed one. I don not agree that a case gauge is required.
You can get the hex key set for less without the branding You need hex keys for the lock rings and other things.
An impact bullet puller is usually enough.
You will need a case trimmer.
That caliper looks good. The $12 digital caliper will also work.