Reddit Reddit reviews Fuji Merchandise K-45#1000 WHET STONE, One Size, Brown

We found 15 Reddit comments about Fuji Merchandise K-45#1000 WHET STONE, One Size, Brown. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Fuji Merchandise K-45#1000 WHET STONE, One Size, Brown
The Package Length of the Product is 9.35 inchesThe Package Width of the Product is 2.8 inchesThe Package Height of the Product is 9.1 inchesThe package weight of the product is 2.5 pounds
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15 Reddit comments about Fuji Merchandise K-45#1000 WHET STONE, One Size, Brown:

u/RockyMtnAristocrat · 11 pointsr/wicked_edge

Here's a copy-paste I put together that might be useful.

Equipment Essentials

  • A pro honed razor at your side. You need to compare the sharpness of the razor you're working on, with the sharpness of a razor that is shave ready. This will decrease your learning curve considerably. You're working blind otherwise.

  • DMT flattening stone. Your hones don't ship flat, and you must even them out to ensure a smooth edge. Flattening before every use is a good idea. If you don't want to buy the DMT, use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and atop piece of marble/glass.

  • Norton 4K/8K A popular choice for general honing, and can perform a laborious restoration/bevel set (if you do more than a few razors, get the 1k below to set a bevel).

  • A jewelers loop to see what happens to the blade as you hone, polish, stop and shave. I feel watching the scratch patterns of a straight razor bevel change is a critical educational step in straight razor bevel maintenance.

  • Chromium Oxide on a strop for final polish, or a diamond pasted strop.


    Honing Supplies for Restoring a Few Straights

  • If you end up honing a few razor from antique stores or ebay, it's good to have a stone dedicated to bevel setting. This stage is 50% of the sharpening process, so it pays to have quality gear at this level King 1000 K For bevel setting on a budget (beware, it's a slow cutter). Or a nice bevel setter like this Chosera.


  • Niawa 12K For a nice final polishing of your razor. 8K is fine, but this puts a great edge on your blade.

    To hone:

    First, you need to flatten your stone, making sure you've removed the top 1/64th or so of stone material to reach the true grits (the top is a bit rough on Nortons especially).Make sure your stone is perfectly flat. Use the DMT or the sandpaper I described above for this.

    Next, clean your SR in soap/warm water. Dry it, and put a piece of electrical tape along the spine and fold it over (like a book binding) if you'd like (not necessary, and I don't do this, but some prefer the look of the end product).

    I like to clear the edge of possible errand burs before I hone, so I drag the shaving edge against my thumbnail or a glass bottle. These burs can cause issues, and may make for a rough feeling edge. I've found that this is a good way to remove them. It may be unnecessary for some/most blades, but it's part of my bevel setting routine, and by doing this, I've notice good things and increased consistency when I hone.

    Now, to hone. You're going to get your razor sharp in these stages:

  • Set the bevel (establish the sharp edge shape)
  • Polish the bevel (polish the shape you created earlier)
  • True the bevel (strop the bevel to make sure the edge is very uniform)

    Setting the bevel:

    While all steps are important, this step is foundational. Place your razor on your bevel setting stone, keeping the razor spine and edge completely flat on the surface togehter. Do tiny circle strokes (circular motion down the hone) so you do about 30-40 tiny circles as you move own the bottom hone. Repeat on the other side of the razor, moving up the hone in the opposite direction (and counter-wise circle direction). Now do 15 x strokes. This is a set.

    Repeat doing these sets until you can shave hair on your arm or leg by very slowly grazing over the tops of the hair - it should catch and cut with a bit of a tug.

    It will take many many of these sets with a 4k stone, and less with a 1K.

    Once you can shave hair on your arm or leg all along the bevel (toe to heel) with uniform sharpness and cutting, you may be set. Do another 10 or so x-strokes, very lightly, very perfectly as a final sharpening for your bevel. See if this helps your edge.

    Once you're happy with your bevel, strop it and shave. If it's painful, it's likely your bevel isn't set. If it's decent, you're ready to move on.

    Polishing the bevel

    Now move up to polishing. On the 4K and do 35 light x strokes. Go to the 8K and do 35 light x-strokes. Repeat this back and forth going 4K 30, 8K 30. Now keep this up, decreasing the stroke number by 5. When you're at 10 strokes, just do 25 on the 8K.

    Always check for sharpness along the edge by trimming a bit of arm hair. You'll learn a lot from an edge by doing this.

    Following the grits up in this fashion should give you a fairly polished bevel. It's best to go higher than 8K with a high grit chinese hone from a woodworking store, or a naninwa 12k, but 8K will do for now.

    Truing the edge:

    Strop about 30 passes on your chromium oxide, clean the blade, and the perform 200 passes on leather - all spine leading, done very lightly.

    The Shave

    After all this, you should have a great edge. Give it a test shave and compare it to your pro honed blade.

    While honing, you'll likely get frustrated, but keep at it! If you're getting aggressive with the razor, just give it a break, and come back later. If the shave is no good, post back here and we'll help you diagnose.


    Some thoughts:

    I tired to present information that's very searchable. Straight razor place has archived many of the ideas that I just presented. I highly recommend researching on your own and reaching a personal conclusion. What follows are my personal opinions.

    This equipment I suggest is not necessarily the best, nor is it bad at all. It's great way to get started and find out what you like in a stone/routine. Some ideas to consider if you upgrade your set:

  • Try a natural stone for a finisher. I use a vintage Thuringian hone called an Barber's Delight Escher.
  • Upgrade your progression by adding various in-between grits. I really like going from a Chosera 1K, to Shapton Pro (not glass version) 2K, 5K, 8K, 15K, then finish.
  • Try finishing a blade with a pasted strop, and try without. Some love one over the other.

    The back and forth honing I recommend is a honing series called pyramid honing, where you go between two different grit hones to ensure you don't form a wire edge or a bur. I like to recommend this for folks getting into honing since this is one of the most documented methods for get a razor to shave ready from a bevel set. A quick google search on pyramid honing will give you plenty of reading. I don't hone this way any more.

    I highly recommend honing your razor as sharp as possible on one stone, strop as I've outlined, and give it a shave. For example, sharpen as much as you can at the 4K stage, and strop it 200 times. If it shaves ok, you're on the right track. If not, you've got more work to do at that level of stone. You'll be amazed that such a low grit can shave so well. If it's painful to shave after your lowest stone.... you're not done, and moving up the stones will not benefit your edge. Repeating this process of shaving up all the stone grits (4K, 8K, 12K) will help you get a feel for what honing at the different levels provide. Shaving off my 1K bevel provided me the biggest leap in edge quality while learning.

    Don't limit your techniques. Once you can confidently bring a restored razor to shave with consistency, I'd recommend playing around and experimenting. Though this, I've developed some strokes that are critical to my routine, and used effectively with every blade I sharpen.

u/maxeytheman · 6 pointsr/knives

The culprits:

1k King Stone

6K King Stone

leather strop

bar of green stuff

And thank you for the compliment

u/floppywanger · 4 pointsr/MealPrepSunday

I have several of those fibrox knives. I would also recommend everyone get a whetstone, angle guide, and honing rod. No matter if you have that particular knife or not, something as simple as this, this, and this will make it so easy to maintain an ultra sharp edge. A few drags on the honing rod will help keep your knife sharp, and when that doesn't cut it (heh) use your whetstone. You'll never have to suffer through using a dull blade again.

u/twelveoclock · 3 pointsr/fountainpens

I noticed that the writing edge has a slight curvature to it. Did you use a squishy surface like a "pad" to do the grind or something with a solid surface like a stone? I've found that pads don't make the writing surface fully flat and you might want to try with a solid grinding surface in case you want to try on a steel nib in the future. I've found my results to be far better on my whetstone compared to my micromesh pads

u/Kobluna · 3 pointsr/Bowyer

While it really depends on just HOW fine and polished you want to make your edge, any old sharpening stone would do for ya.

I've gone through a few of these over the years, it's not so abrasive that you'll grind away half your knife by accident, but enough to make it work.
https://www.amazon.com/King-1000-Grit-Whetstone-Plastic/dp/B000OT1ZOC/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1481149234&sr=8-15&keywords=waterstone

I cannot recommend the double sided stones with the low grit on one side, high on the other. The grits get washed together and it kinda ruins both stones pretty quick.

u/Dag3n0 · 3 pointsr/sharpening

If you want a stone a king 1k used with water can be had for below 20$ usually.

https://www.amazon.com/King-1000-Whetstone-Plastic-blown/dp/B000OT1ZOC/

u/Ammadienxb · 3 pointsr/bodybuilding

https://www.knifeplanet.net/knife-sharpening-school-online-course/

This is a pretty good primer about the technique and stuff. I just got a 1000 grit stone from amazon and tried it with a bunch of different cheap knives I had laying around. It's all technique and learning to feel the burr on the edge.

This is the stone I used too - https://www.amazon.com/King-1000-Grit-Whetstone-Plastic/dp/B000OT1ZOC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523892968&sr=8-2&keywords=king+1000+grit

u/AManAPlanACanalErie · 2 pointsr/chefknives

People on youtube do stupid shit to get people to talk about them, because to join the conversation you need to watch the inflammatory video.

Ten minute soak, five minutes to sharpen, once, maybe twice, a month. Using this and this. Keeps the two knives I use sharp.

There is no black magic. Use the right grits, use the right lubricant, keep the right angle. Nothing else matters. Keeping your knives sharp with waterstones is right within the amount of work you are looking to invest (assuming you don't do anything silly like use a glass cutting board)

u/mealsharedotorg · 2 pointsr/philadelphia

Yeah, OP needs a whetstone and a few youtube videos.

u/thatguyron · 2 pointsr/woodworking

It's actually an exponential scale so the gap can be bigger at finer grits. Here's a chart that compares the grit number (use the waterstone column) with the actual size of the particles involved in microns.

My "everyday" set is this one and I this one (the 2nd one has reviews complaining about getting the wrong size, but I bought it in a store so I got the size this link is supposed to be for). Those are enough to get chisels and plane blades sharp enough to shave my arm hairs.

The 400 is some local brand I got in a small shop in Japan, and I like having a coarse stone since you'll be there forever on the 1000 stone if you ever accidentally chip an edge or want to restore an old blade. But to be fair, these are rarer uses so you might as well just use the sandpaper method for these purposes instead of buying a whole stone just for that purpose.

The 13000 stone is this one.

u/OMIGAHHH · 2 pointsr/knives

I've got a long list of questions for you, if you don't mind. For reference, I just bought a King stone 1000 because my knife is incredibly dull, where I can press and rub my finger (like pressing a button on a phone, if not harder).

  • What coarser stone should I buy to use before the 1000? Can I start sharpening without anything less than a 1000, if the knife is at this point of damage?
  • I want to maintain my wet stone and prevent it from caving in. What kind of stone did you buy to make sure it's a flat surface?
u/blindtranche · 1 pointr/knives

I am happy with this stone.. It is big enough...about 7 1/2" to easily sharpen a kitchen chef knife.

I am not a fanatic. There is nothing better than 3 stones and a strop. But, I get a very good working edge in a couple of minutes with just this one synthetic stone. I have the Lansky system and ceramic sticks, but in my opinion they are fiddly and slow.

This one medium grit stone is simple, cheap, easy and fast.

u/zapatodefuego · 1 pointr/Cooking

Victorinox makes booth a grooved and smooth hone. A grooved hone won't be any different than yours and a smooth hone just realigns a deformed edge. Here's Alton Brown explaining it, but he's not entirely correct because the steel he is using is also removing a small amount of material.

If I'm correct and the problem is that your current hone has removed some material in the wrong places, you should be able to fix it with the same hone just by consistently holding the right angle which should be 14˚ for a Wusthof. Remember, that's the edge angle and not the included angle. This will probably take a while though 30 seconds on a cheap whetstone would accomplish the same task.

Even proper honing on a smooth steel eventually requires sharpening. Honing where the steel is just realigning eventually develops fatigue in the metal which then needs to be removed.

u/UptokesAround · 1 pointr/food

You should use a proper sushi knife. Looks like this:

http://imgur.com/5smU5Eb

Your knife doesn't need to be expensive but it needs to be extremely sharp. you need to use a whetstone to get it sharp enough for sushi. Here is a video on how to use one:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBXRkMZfIXk

Or if you want to go more in depth here is one with a much better process and better materials:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTKV5-ZSWcE

Here is the whetstone used in the video for $40:

http://www.amazon.com/Sharpening-Combination-Double-Side-1000-8000/dp/B00HMUBEY2/ref=sr_1_2?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1393890698&sr=1-2&keywords=whetstone+1000+8000

And here is one if you are tight on money:

http://www.amazon.com/King-1000-Grit-Whetstone-Plastic/dp/B000OT1ZOC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393890592&sr=8-2&keywords=whetstone

You can make any run of the mill knife scalpel sharp, but a real sushi chef uses a hollowed edge knife, and sharpens it on a 10,000 grit whetstone.

P.S. as long as nori is fresh it doesn't matter what brand it is.