Reddit Reddit reviews Ginsco Dual USB Charger Socket Power Outlet 2.1A & 2.1A(4.2A) for Car Boat Marine RV Mobile with Wire Fuse DIY Kit Blue LED

We found 9 Reddit comments about Ginsco Dual USB Charger Socket Power Outlet 2.1A & 2.1A(4.2A) for Car Boat Marine RV Mobile with Wire Fuse DIY Kit Blue LED. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Ginsco Dual USB Charger Socket Power Outlet 2.1A & 2.1A(4.2A) for Car Boat Marine RV Mobile with Wire Fuse DIY Kit Blue LED
10A inline fuses to protect your plugs from being overloaded.Input : 12V, Output : 2 ports 5V - 4.2A ,2.1A each.Drill size : 1.15“(29.2mm)fits most vehicles’ dash panelPackage Included:1 x Dual USB Car Charger Adapter, 1 x 3.3 ft Wire , 2 x Fuse (1 installed ), 2 x Insulated Terminals
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9 Reddit comments about Ginsco Dual USB Charger Socket Power Outlet 2.1A & 2.1A(4.2A) for Car Boat Marine RV Mobile with Wire Fuse DIY Kit Blue LED:

u/delerium98 · 8 pointsr/prius

When I bought my 2011 Prius the cigarette lighter socket was completely dead. My fuses in the fuse box tested good (continuity test). Turns out there is an inline fuse on the socket itself that was blown. I pulled the socket out and replaced it with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6S2SNM works perfectly!

u/MyNameIsRay · 5 pointsr/CarAV

Only name-brand that makes something like this is iSimple, but it's twice the price of the other options, only has 1 port, only does 1A, and is still made in China.

Point is, they're all cheap crap from China, even if you're buying name brand and paying twice as much.

These devices are extraordinarily simple and cheap to make, there's nothing that's going to explode, and nothing is going to melt and catch fire (especially if you use a fuse).

2.4A isn't a standard amperage, so a real 2.4A USB is pretty uncommon, especially in this form factor (it's usually a 2.1 that they over-rated so you'll pay more).

Here's a decent option

u/Logosmonkey · 2 pointsr/sailing

I've used these with good success. You'll need to fabricate a cowl or something to have it plugged in all the time and keep water off it. Though it really shouldn't matter all that much if it gets a little wet.

u/juicius · 1 pointr/airstream

It's cost and benefit thing. There are more electricity heavy appliances now than in 76 and have the opportunity to covert propane appliances to electricity. I have a dedicated 20 amp circuit in my kitchen area and my fridge, microwave, and induction cooktop, and ice maker runs while another 20 amp dedicated service in my bathroom runs the dual mode 10 gallon water heater. I haven't used any propane this year at all. If my wife used blow dryer at the same time, it won't trip the circuit. I do have 2 ACs, also on their own dedicated circuit but that I concede was an overkill... We simply never needed 2 this year. But if we ever do, I can run both at the same time while everything else is running without fear of tripping any circuit. It's the difference of having 30 amp available and 100 amp available.

The cost of conversion was very reasonable. The biggest expense was a [Progressive Dynamics converter panel] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC8PN0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) at $282 but I'd have to purchase a new converter panel for 30 amp anyway since I scraped the crappy 2 circuit one that the Airstream came with. 25 ft of 50 amp RV power cord was $100. Both of these I was going to replace so the true cost is actually less than the total. Add to this the circuit breakers and that's the cost of upgrading 30 amp to 50 amp. Just the peace of mind to run anything at anytime was worth it. The induction hot plate heats faster than propane and I have the peace of mind of not having an open flame inside, especially with 2 little kids. The Dometic dual mode water heater is great. I usually have the Airstream parked at home for a day before we leave and I preheat the water then and when we arrive at a campsite, the water takes maybe another hour to heat to hot with electricity and keeps up with usage while camping. We have another hot plate and electric grill we set up outside, plugged to the outside outlet (shared with interior AC circuit) and those run fine while everything inside is running. I did go a little crazy with the inside outlets... I think I have 16 or 17 outlets inside but hardly anything is plugged in that circuit other than TVs. Small electronic devices are connected to the 12 v system using 12v to 5v [USB sockets] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6S2SNM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I have about 8 of those.

Anyway, 50 amp gives you flexibility at not a very high cost. Even if I'm reno'ing a Bambi, I'd still put in 50 amp.

u/Drekentai · 1 pointr/mazda3

Well, I'm pretty sure the primary intention for them is USB sticks or the likes for media files, so it makes sense since the infotainment makes use of that and for working with firmware and the likes.

I kind of doubt you'd be able to modify that without extensive circuit work. You'd be better off adding another Set of USB ports to the car that are hardwired and meant for high output charging. You'd just need to cut the trim to add the outputs. Something like this would do it:

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Charger-Socket-Outlet-2-1A%EF%BC%884-2A%EF%BC%89/dp/B01N6S2SNM

The USB 2.0 standard is 500 mAh for data transfer. So it still technically charges, just really, really slow. USB 3.0 I believe is 900mAh (there's 5 extra contacts, which is more than likely why).

u/HierEncore · 1 pointr/SolarDIY

...hope you dont have any neighbors.

Easiest way? Get a small 50watt solar panel, a usb adapter, and one of those portable bluetooth speakers with built-in batteries. wire it up, mount it somewhere sheltered from rain, and you're good to go.

​

panel: https://www.amazon.com/HQST-Monocrystalline-Applications-Compact-Design/dp/B07HYGSZKL

usb adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Charger-Socket-Outlet-2-1A(4-2A)/dp/B01N6S2SNM

bluetooth speaker with 8hrs battery: https://www.amazon.com/Bose-SoundLink-Color-Bluetooth-speaker/dp/B01HETFQKS (something with a remote would be best)

u/Khakikadet · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Throw one of these bad boys in your system with a switch and youre good to go. Ive taken my kit out playing Pokemon go and recharged multiple phones without putting much of a dent in the battery. Im sure someone can do the math, but those power banks that will charge your phones like 5 times are 10 AH 5 volt, so lord knows how long you can charge your phone of a 12 volt 35 AH stepped down to 5 volts.

u/secessus · 1 pointr/vandwelling

DC-DC is preferred for the reasons you note. There are tons of DC laptop chargers and usb outlets.

On parts of my build where they would show and need to access plugging I am using this kind of usb outlet (about 1/2 the price on eBay). Where they do not show and I need a permanent 5v supply I use bare components kinda like this, which are about $2-$3 each shipped from China. Both are on switches so the converters aren't using power when not in use.

u/Drangleic_Soldier · 1 pointr/E30

AUKEY CC-S1 Car Charger, Flush Fit Dual Port 4.8A Output for iPhone iPad Samsung & other - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6QODH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_RMwezbEHZQ8SE

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Ginsco Dual USB Charger Socket Power Outlet 2.1A & 2.1A(4.2A) for Car Boat Marine Mobile with Wire Fuse DIY Kit Blue LED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6S2SNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_nOwezbM2AG9AZ