Reddit reviews Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet, 8" x 8" 3D Printing Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive Tape

• That alcohol is extremely overpriced. Just get that locally from a drug store or Target, it is like $2 a bottle.
  
  
• The thinnest guitar string (High E) will work perfect for cleaning nozzles. I dunno how that kit is but you can just get a pack of guitar strings for less than $5 and those strings can be cut into dozens of pieces for repeat cleaning.
  
  
• Get the stuff to do the MOSFET upgrade. As a Maker Select owner, you should do that before you do anything else.
  
  
• I would say drop the hair spray and get a sheet of PEI. It will last you a long time, has amazing adhesion and only needs to be put on once.
  
  
• That table is going to be really bad for a 3D Printer. I would drop that and get the $9 Ikea Lack Table, that is what a huge majority of us use. If you don't want to wait for Ikea's slow shipping, the Parsons table on Amazon is still cheaper and is basically the same thing.

FYI there is a PEI sheet with 3M already on it for much cheaper

I want to clarify that when this person is saying "PEI over glass" that this person is saying to put PEI [on top of] borosilicate glass, not in place of glass.

A sheet of PEI with 3M 468MP adhesive tape to borosilicate glass is a game changer. Use simple binder clips to keep it on the bed.

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Edit: I stand corrected. OP was genuinely saying to use PEI instead of glass. I don't suggest adhering PEI directly to your plate because you're not always going to want to print on PEI depending on your material, and PEI will eventually get bubbles and warp and you'll want to be able to replace it.

Source: Have used PEI for over a year now.

for your size, this would be the easiest solution.

You just wouldn't be able to sand it. But it can still last a long time if you're careful with it.

Here you go. Just buy the appropriate size for your printer!

save yourself some headache and get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484844933&sr=8-2&keywords=PEI

Here you go!

Look into purchasing a PEI (Polythermide) sheet to put onto your printing surface. I did so and it works incredible!

Just make sure that you take your time while applying it to reduce the amount of air bubbles. I picked up this kit from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KGDTPQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: It takes virtually no maintenance, and everything sticks to it incredibly well. I also forgot to mention that I have only tested it with ABS, but I hear PLA works well too. I have also heard that PETG sticks better than ABS or PLA.

Edit 2: I also should mention that I was able to stick it directly to the aluminum bed. Make sure to clean it really well if you do plan on taking this route.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KGDTPQK/

I bought the Maker Select V2 a few weeks ago, so I'll give you a dump of what I've bought so far:

MOSFET - You'll also need some 14 gauge wire, spade connectors, and something (like velcro) to mount it inside the case.

PEI Sheet - After going through tape/hairspray/glue this is what you'll end up wishing you started with. I bought some standard window glass from a big box store and had them cut it to size. I used the thermal pads at first, but I prefer just clipping it on. This way I can have 4 different glass beds to swap among.

Raspberry Pi 3 - OctoPrint is so much nicer than transferring the sd card back and forth.

Fan - DiiCooler or CiiCooler or a few others you can print out that are compatible with this fan (I think, I haven't finished printing them yet).

Y carriage plate - Not sure what the difference between this and yours is - I haven't installed mine yet).

MicroSwiss

Also ordered a couple rolls of Inand PLA from MicroCenter online.

Oh haha sorry.[ Gizmo dorks] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483410646&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65)

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet, 8" x 8" 3D Printing Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WB3qybRCVC0HD

To increase your chances, make sure you use some quality PLA. The difference is in the chemistry and the quality control. I'm getting some great results with MatterHackers PLA. Pro grade, I think it's called.

I ruined the original buildtak sheet by ripping a gash into it with the putty knife. I replaced the original sheet with the supplied secondary sheet, and ruined that one too by using acetone on it. I assumed acetone would melt PLA as it does ABS, but acetone has no effect on PLA - this was the result: http://imgur.com/DqTnXee I have no idea why it turned white like that, and I also ripped more gashes into it desperately trying to scrape the white off. Filament was grey PLA+ from monoprice. Apparently alcohol will ruin the adhesive property of buildtak.


So now I'm using a PEI sheet glued on top of the buildtak, so my settings might not fully apply to you. https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1493925820&sr=1-1&keywords=PEI+sheet there are 10x10, 8x8, and 12x12


Your issue of 1st layer adhesion is only with the dii3? Then yea its probably cooling off the filament right at the nozzle's tip too fast. I Print at 210C for large prints without any small parts (d&d field tiles) and at 200-205 for prints with small parts/hands/weapons/hairs/spikes etc. As far as I know, I leave both fans at full blast always though. I can't check right now, but I THINK the print cooling fan to the bed is off during initial layers, I'll get back to you when I can check how it acts. I have not touched that fan's settings in cura 15.04 though


Maybe slow your first layer speed down to 15-20 mm/s? I know Slic3r can delve way deeper into customizing settings - maybe you can raise the initial layer and raft/brim temperatures? If you can set the print fan to off/minimal speeds for the first layer and brim/raft, I'd give it a shot.


Bed temp at 55, resolution for prints with no small details: 0.2mm, d&d field tiles: 0.24mm, prints with tiny details (miniature monsters/characters): 0.1mm to 0.08mm. 0.4mm nozzle always at 100% rate, 0.8mm shell. First layer speed 17.5mm/s. Speed @ 0.1mm or less: 35mm/s, speed at 0.2mm or more: 60-70mm/s.

You want the lazy solution?
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484800825&sr=8-1&keywords=pei+sheet

was it this material?

Setup took maybe 20 minutes or so total. Assembling takes about 10, then about another 10 to get the bed leveled. Assembly is literally just 6 bolts you screw in. The bed leveling is a bit of a pain but not difficult. Directions say to use a piece of paper during leveling, but I found it more accurate to use a feeler gauge instead if you have one handy, if not the paper will work.

I tried the painters tape and had some success but still kept detaching from the base about 1/2 the time. I did not try glue or hairspray. While researching lots of people mentioned the PEI sheet so I figured I'd gamble on it. I have printed 7 or 8 things with it and only had 1 that didn't stick and that was probably my fault because I did not remember to wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484765745&sr=8-2&keywords=pei


My suggestion is try it with the stock surface and/or the painters tape and see what kind of luck you have. If you have issues with sticking, then buy the PEI sheet.

Hey! I got the same printer and was using ABS for my first couple prints. Couple things--First the built in items on the SD card are sliced for PLA printing, so you need to up the temps on the extruder and bed--I had success just upping it to 240/80. This got it to stick, but I had to get my z positioning (the thumb wheels on the corners) just right. Also I absolutely needed a raft for anything to really stick.

If you're slicing your own items in Cura, the default filament size is 2.8mm and you're probably using 1.75mm filament.

Unfortunately on any prints longer than an hour the ABS would start to curl off the bed--I chalked that up to the somewhat breezy room I have my printer set up in currently.

tl;dr Make sure your bed/z is leveled precisely so that a piece of standard printer paper can slide underneath the nozzle in each corner with resistance. Try upping your temps and checking your slicer settings as well.

/u/Redditull mentioned a glass bed. I picked one up on amazon, this fits the bed pretty nicely (just lays between the corner screws)--you do need to raise your z-stop, there's a metal lever contraption screwed into one of the sides of your printer's frame that you need to unscrew and raise. I also attached a PEI sheet to this and I used thermal pads to attach all this to the bed. This all improves adhesion greatly, I've mostly been using PLA after the difficulties I had but I would imagine ABS would stick just fine as well.

Borosilicate Glass

PEI Sheet

Thermal Sheet