Reddit reviews HiLetgo 2pcs ESP8266 NodeMCU CP2102 ESP-12E Internet WiFi Development Board Open Source Serial Wireless Module (Pack of 2PCS)
We found 17 Reddit comments about HiLetgo 2pcs ESP8266 NodeMCU CP2102 ESP-12E Internet WiFi Development Board Open Source Serial Wireless Module (Pack of 2PCS). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Built-in Micro-USB, with flash and reset switches, easy to programFull I/O port and Wireless 802.11 supported, direct download no need to resetWorks great for the latest Arduino IDE/Mongoose IoT/Micropython
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Over the past several weeks, I've installed some LED strips throughout my Kitchen Cabinets.
I used ESP8266's and diyHue to control WS2812B LED Strips in my Kitchen...
Missing a few capacitors at the moment.. Will install soon!
Onto the bathrooms next with much smaller PSUs...
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For those wandering..
Here is a general list of what was used here:
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I have used 330ohm resistors in the data line, in the past, with other WS2812B installations. They seemed to mess up the signal flow when using them with the ESP8266's, but I could have gotten a bad batch of them.
Using resistors in lighting data lines has always been recommended.. Resistors in lighting data lines generally "terminate" the line.. They can drown-out and prevent feedback, essentially.
>I just used the screen listed above, and this:
>
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK
>
>. The animations, and graphical assets were stored in memory using this method:
>
>http://www.rinkydinkelectronics.com/t\_imageconverter565.php
Additionally, I used the PxMatrix library to control the LEDs https://github.com/2dom/PxMatrix
here you go
5v power supply
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076V9PMSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
stepper drivers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016ZJS1FA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
nodemcu
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
wire
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS39GEH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
enclosure
https://www.jaycar.co.nz/large-abs-ip66-enclosure/p/HB6404
cable glands
https://www.jaycar.co.nz/ip68-nickel-plated-copper-cable-glands-3-to-6-5mm-pack-of-2/p/HP0744
stepper motors
https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-stepper-motor-bipolar-l33mm-w-gear-raio-51-planetary-gearbox-17hs13-0404s-pg5.html
blinds
https://www.bunnings.co.nz/windoware-180-x-210cm-black-glamour-indoor-blockout-roller-blind_p01261013
3d printed parts using ender 3 pro
raspberry pi 3 running home assistant
I have a NodeMCU that will run a few hours or a few days between resetting and I have been searching for a couple weeks for solutions and based on the reset report the best I can find is power supply issue. My power supply is an older computer ATX 5V line that I am using as a bench, and it has also been powered straight from the USB on my computer. I have put filter caps on the 5-0 line as well as on the 3.3-0 pins with no changes.
The two questions I have are, is there any information on where to troubleshoot next? I am considering the board may be bad and replacing it, but really don't know. Second, should this board reboot after this event? An occasional crash is not wanted but can be tolerated if the board reboots, but right now it hangs and I can't figure out which pins to trip to force a reboot, or even if this is possible.
Exception (9):
epc1=0x40213a4a epc2=0x00000000 epc3=0x00000000 excvaddr=0x02018206 depc=0x00000000
ctx: cont
sp: 3fff0880 end: 3fff0bb0 offset: 01a0
>>>stack>>>
3fff0a20: 3fff0fd0 00000000 00000000 4021a8f3
3fff0a30: 3fff2084 00000000 3fff2084 40213a8e
3fff0a40: 3fff0fd0 00013389 3fff2084 40213def
3fff0a50: 00000001 3fff28a8 00000001 402141a4
3fff0a60: 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
3fff0a70: 3ffeed70 3ffef8dc 3ffefb90 00009a4c
3fff0a80: 3fff1d48 00000000 3fff2724 4021420c
3fff0a90: 40201842 00001388 00001388 402050d8
3fff0aa0: 3fff1d48 00000000 3fff2724 4020539e
3fff0ab0: f101a8c0 40204cc4 3fff0b10 4020b2b1
3fff0ac0: 3fff1dec 00000012 3ffefac4 3fff0b10
3fff0ad0: 3ffe9230 3fff1c74 3fff1d48 40204299
3fff0ae0: 3ffe9230 f101a8c0 3fff0b10 40100690
3fff0af0: 3ffe8ff4 3ffefac4 00000014 3ffef85c
3fff0b00: 00000012 3ffef850 3ffef850 40207dc7
3fff0b10: 3fff2294 0000001f 00000012 40207e1e
3fff0b20: 3fff1c74 40204160 3ffef3b8 3ffefb84
3fff0b30: 3fffdad0 00000000 3ffef3b8 3ffefb84
3fff0b40: 3fffdad0 00000000 00000001 40207e96
3fff0b50: 3fffdad0 00000000 3ffefb7d 402082d8
3fff0b60: 3ffef60c 3ffef608 3ffefb7d 402036fc
3fff0b70: 3ffef5fc feefeffe feefeffe feefeffe
3fff0b80: 00000000 00000000 00000001 3ffefb84
3fff0b90: 3fffdad0 00000000 3ffefb7d 4020bbb0
3fff0ba0: feefeffe feefeffe 3ffefb90 40100710
<<<stack<<<
ets Jan 8 2013,rst cause:2, boot mode:(1,6)
ets Jan 8 2013,rst cause:4, boot mode:(1,6)
wdt reset
Thanks for any help
Correct...typo, ws2812b.
LEDs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGSZLGX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
NodeMCU:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Diffuser:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M09PBYX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
2A power adapter (x2):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777HWN87/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
No problem.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/
bluetooth for what kind of control?
i'm not sure what the exact uses would be of integrating an esp8266 in a light would be, but battery life notifications on my phone when my edc light is low would be cool, and is the first thing that comes to mind
others could be remotely activating your light if lost in a dark room/place, schedules for default modes (always go to moonlight between 2-5AM, for example)
the aux led could glow green/red when you get certain notifications (or with wifi status), step counter/fitbit features would be easy (for those that carry their light on-person)
i'm getting some wacky ideas gonna stop here
Cool project idea, and definitely a lot of room for learning here. I’ll try to give you some ideas on how I’d do it, but keep in mind that I’m not an expert and doing wiring on anything that connects to a person can be dangerous, so this is very much an at your own risk situation.
Instead of starting with the UI, I’d start by figuring out how to connect the device to a computer and the computer to the internet, then you can build a UI on top.
Instead of a RaspberryPi I’d look into an ‘esp8266’ which is basically an arduino with WiFi. You can get one here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK I like these because they’re cheap, easy to connect to the internet (WiFi!) and relatively simple.
To connect that to the device, you’ll probably want to open it up and find where the buttons connect to the circuit board and solder on wires (each button should have 2 connections, and so each will be 2 wires). Run the two wires from the button to a relay - like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BDJ8T4G
A relay is basically a switch that can be controlled electrically. In this case, you connect the ground on the relay to ground, the power to one of the pins on the 8266, and the two outputs to the wires from one switch (order doesn’t matter). Then when the 8266 sends power to that pin it will tell the relay to push the button.
You can power the 8266 from any USB, but note that if you’re going to use a USB adapter that plugs into the wall instead of a battery bank you need to use a good quality one (like an apple branded iPad charger) because cheap ones can be unsafe, and you’re going to have a lot of wiring in close proximity to stuff you’re connecting to your body.
I’d use the ‘arest’ library on your 8266 to make things easy - there’s directions here https://openhomeautomation.net/control-relay-anywhere-esp8266 note that you don’t need to pay for their cloud thing, but it might make it easier. If you don’t want to, you can get a ‘dynamic dns’ service and forward a port on the router to the 8266. You’ll probably want some extra code to make the relay turn off shortly after it turns on so it presses the button instead of holding it down.
If I was going to do this, here’s how I’d approach it:
Hope this helps get you started. If (when) you get stuck I’d be happy to help if I can!
Absolutely.
This are the Arduino modules I'm using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZIGvCbDVXRRNP
But if you want to write the data to a CSV you will need to use a Raspberry Pi module. You will need dupont wires to go along with this. Look for female to female wires. (But the sensor below comes with wires)
Use the dht22 sensor found here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F472JL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lLGvCbR9G2PT5
Then follow this guide
https://www.losant.com/blog/getting-started-with-the-esp8266-and-dht22-sensor
NodeMCU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are: HiLetgo 2pcs ESP8266 NodeMCU LUA CP2102 ESP-12E
This is the amazon link. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Arduino with an ESP chip is probably the best way to go. I found this tutorial that grabs data from a website and you can use this chip.
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You can also program these using Python with MicroPython. There's this example of someone using this to put Data to a server. You can start with that and modify the code, in his other examples he also has how to use an LED and how to read data from a webpage. It's also worth checking out his other examples and other code online! Just a quick note, you configure the Wifi settings in boot.py then have your main script in main.py.
If you are not looking to use an arduino shield and don't need a ton of io pins, you can use a nodemcu it is technically an esp8266 that can be programmed via the arduino use.
I've bought several of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OhYTBbV2X57A5
They run my drawing machine, my action camera controller, my plant moisture sensor, my 3d printer accessory, and half a dozen other goofing off projects.
Even if you don't want to use Wi-Fi...out is hard to beat the price.
There are a couple extra steps to use the first one... But it is well documented on the internet.
In fairness there are some cons too:
Limited pins and some pins are not accessible
They take up a lot of room on a breadboard
They are 3.3v (not really a conversation, unless you are trying to work with something that is 5v)
If you know you want to be battery operated, there are some with built in lipo circuits (I have one with a tiny LCD and a lipo charger that cost about $12)
I'd probably use a pair of small ESP8266 boards on WiFi for this purpose, like these:
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010N1SPRK/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=esp8266&qid=1567788335&s=gateway&sr=8-17
Small enough that you can just double stick tape the module inside the case, rather than putting in an SSD caddy. This gives you better options when placing it near the motherboard connections you'll connect it to.
You could set up the one inside the PC in AP mode, then have the other one connect to it as a client so that they have their own WiFi network.
This could also give you the ability to perform the same functions through a web page on your phone on the same hardware with not much more effort.
I really doubt that latency would be much of a factor in this application. No slower than controlling a typical Smart LED light bulb over WiFi, for instance, since they're probably using an ESP8266 to do it, anyway!
Happy to help. HiLetgo PN532 NFC NXP RFID Module... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1J17LC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is the NFC reader. I use these ESP8266: HiLetgo 2pcs ESP8266 NodeMCU LUA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this is the ESPHome config guide. https://esphome.io/components/binary_sensor/pn532.html
It’s straight forward and ESPHome does a fantastic job at abstracting away all the hard parts.
A card read can show up in HomeAsssitant as a binary sensor on. From there it is a script that unlocks my door lock. If your lock integrates with homeassistant you should be able to. Keep in mind that NFC security implemented this way is as secure as your lock code. Except it’s usually a more permanent number combination. And you have written your door combination down on a piece of paper that you fidget about with every time you pull out your wallet. The closer people are, the better they can read your door combo. Except with NFC, you would never know. Always plan in a second factor for better security. Ours will not unlock the locks unless it also detects our Bluetooth is home. That’s another ESPHome boilerplate config.
Not OP but here's what I bought to get this project going.
I had other electronics project equipment laying around like solder iron, cables, prototype boards, etc. I 3dprinted a holder for the load cells (they need distance between them and the surface they are resting on so that they can flex. STL can be found here.
I'll update in a bit with pictures
This :-) If the birthday is still a bit away, Aliexpress is a good source for large kits that can be used for all sorts of projects; $22, $26 (Mega, Ultrasonic...), and single compatible UNO or Nano cost $2.60/$1.70 or so.
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I build simple car-robots with students, and while you can get a whole set for around $15, they aren't too expensive if you buy locally either (e.g. 1, 2); It's rather easy to hook up, and even with just 10 lines of programming it's ready to drive around objects by itself.
Here's a kit similar to the ones from Aliexpress, but from a German seller; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Starter-Kit-fur-Arduino-UNO-R3-RFID-mit-Modulen-Sensoren-1602-LCD-Display-Ras-/181965808319?hash=item2a5e01e2bf:g:Jz4AAOSwepJXVUFe - so should not take too long (When I order from the UK to Germany it usually takes a week tops).
Also consider picking up a NodeMCU Wifi board, lots of fun for home automation, robots, remote controlled gadgets... (1, 2)
Does he have a soldering iron? Many try to avoid it, and you usually get away with it :-) I tried avoiding soldering as much as I can, until I got a decent soldering iron. Now it wasn't just easier, but also fun. It's actually easier then trying to splice wires, building complex circuits with jumpers, searching for loose connections... While something like the Hakko fx-888d is great, even a simpler soldering station with adjustable temperature will do to get started 1 2