Reddit reviews Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4" TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 Feet
We found 209 Reddit comments about Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4" TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 Feet. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
This cable is designed to connect an audio device with a mini stereo phone output to Pro audio gear with unbalanced phone inputs. It is ideal for connecting an iPod, laptop, or similar device to a mixing consoleNickel-plated plugs for rugged durability and efficient signal transferOxygen-free Copper (OFC) Conductors for Enhanced signal clarityOfc Spiral shields for effective EMI and RFI Rejection and FlexibilityConnectors): 3.5 mm TRS to dual 1/4 in TS. Length: 10'1/8 inch TRS to dual 1/4 inch TS cable10 feet, Y cable1/8 Inch TRS to Dual 1/4 Inch TS Cable10 Feet, Y Cable
Volca beats uses a dual unbalanced mono signal. When you use headphones, the same mono signal is going to the left speaker and the right speaker using the left and right connections of the cable, which causes no problems. When you use an audio interface, you're plugging a cable carrying two identical signals into a jack that's expecting two identical signals but with one of them phase inverted. Your audio interface is probably expecting a mono balanced input, which is not what it's getting. Normally with a balanced input, the signals are sent phase inverted. The receiving hardware then flips the inverted signal and the signals are combined.
With the dual unbalanced signal, since neither signal is being sent phase inverted, when the receiving hardware inverts the signal it becomes phase inverted. When the signals are combined, you're left with just the noise/distortion that a balanced cable is normally trying to eliminate.
Korg really should've made this more clear with the Volca series. FYI - here is the cable I'm using, which works fine (I only use one of the 1/4" plugs).
They're powered speakers, meaning you don't need an amplifier or receiver.
You can plug them straight into a computer using this cable.
You'll want a DAC or audio interface to get the most value out of these.
You can run these with a 3.5mm to 2xTS adapter but you'll be much more susceptible to grounding issues/noise.
The best solution would be to get a device that has balanced TRS/XLR output (both are electrically equivalent, pin-for-pin).
So this came to a surprise to me, just because I haven't had that much experience with this kind of gear.
Here are my notes:
I don't have enough details, but I think you're connecting your volca (stereo) to a line in (mono) and it's getting messed up because the mixing board is expecting mono.
I figured this out by taking one of my 3.5mm TRS to 6.35 mm TS cable only using the T and it worked fine.
My final solution was to buy a TS 3.5mm to TS 6.35mm cable for each of my volcas and everything works fantastically now.
edit: if you're using a volca sample, which is actually stereo, you'll want to split the TRS to 2x TS and put it into two channels on your mixing board.
You need a 3.5mm to TS cable like this. If you were to use optical, you would need a DAC (because the speakers take an analog input and optical is digital.
A pair of LSR305s and this cable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_0eCJwbBQKJXP3
More speakers doesn't equal more immersive. When buying sound equipment a lot of the value comes from things not properly listed on specifications, such as total range frequency within a certain amount of total harmonic distortion.
A good set of studio monitors is a better sound solution than most people have ever owned.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GP56OYA - Some slightly above entry level studio monitors.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6 - Connection cable needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Studio-Solutions-Density-Isolation-Monitors/dp/B01FGCC2FM - Isolation pads to prevent desk vibration and angles them towards your ears properly.
Assuming your motherboard isn't using a really poor audio chipset and you are using a high quality audio source they will sound pretty good. If you want to hit frequencies below 70Hz with significant volume I suggest adding a dedicated subwoofer of 10" minimum, although 12-15" is more ideal.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sxts_kp_bs_tr_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=dbvVV&pf_rd_r=RBNP7VWXFTWQEFFDDP75&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B005HGM1D6&pd_rd_w=URFvj&pf_rd_i=3.5+mm+to+1%2F4&pd_rd_r=07adf82d-8513-4aec-8728-7bc3131f30fe&ie=UTF8&qid=1543252309&sr=1
TRS cable out of your headphone jack -> split to two TS cables -> inputs of the 4 track cassette recorder
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/
It will work. You just need this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478647838&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F8+to+1%2F4
Your rental place might even through one in.
Here ya go
Your mixer is most likely a mono input. When I had my volcas, I used this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6
You just need one of the 1/4" end into your mixer.
PC --> 3.5mm stereo to dual 1/4" phono plugs --> into the sub ==> dual 1/4" to 1/4" cables out of the sub to the mains. The crossover is in the sub.
You don't need a usb interface.
That sub (despite the graphic on the back) will accept (and output) an unbalanced signal using TS plugs, it doesn't have to be TRS or a balanced signal.
Also keep an eye on Monoprice's promo code sales - for Memorial Day they had a code for $10 off $100+, $25 off $250+, $50 off $500+ - they'll prob do the same, if not more, for July 4th.
You could probably find the cables at Monoprice too
Male 1/8" TRS (mini jack) to Dual Male 1/4" TRS cable. Like this one.
If you wanted to go a higher fidelity route than this one, I would use a DAC (digital to analog converter) like the Nuforce uDAC with a USB cable from the computer to the DAC and single RCA cables going from the DAC to each speaker.
Right...http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1376223966&sr=8-8&keywords=1%2F4+to+1%2F8
If your phone has a regular headphone jack, all you need is this type of cable. Rip the red and black 1/4 plugs apart as much as you need, plug the red into the right speaker and the black into the left, and the other end into your phone.
If you don't mind swapping the 3.5mm plug to whatever device you are using something like this will work
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
I have the JX-8P and Juno106, which were pretty similar to the JX-3p and the stereo out is for their chorus effect (slight movement between the channels). In the originals, if you didn't want stereo, you could just plug in a 1/4" into the left and it would work just fine, chorus and all, then you can plug into whatever guitar pedals. I guess you could do the same by getting a Stereo Breakout, 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 in TS.
Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!
This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!
So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.
I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!
Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AverMedia-61C9850000AE-Avermedia-Live-Gamer/dp/B007SRYAPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447858313&sr=8-2&keywords=live+gamer+hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!
Here's is my shopping list for party chat:
Mixer
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150891&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+mixer
Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-PC35-PH25-Computer/dp/B002D41HKS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421341934&sr=1-3&keywords=headset+buddy
Xbox Chat Thing:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6
Cable from Buddy to Mixer:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150937&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+cables
Cable from Mixer to Buddy!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMS-105-3-5mm-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000068O35/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857349&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+TRS+to+1%2F4+inch
Xbox Mixer(s)
Astro Mixamp (I use)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ASTRO-Gaming-3AM99-HBU9X-975-ASTROGAMING-MIXAMP/dp/B004L6C6BK/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1447856882&sr=1-4&keywords=astro+mixamp
Earforce DSS (an option!)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Channel-Dolby-Surround-Processor-Mac/dp/B003O0KICS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1421378828&sr=1-1&keywords=dss1
Ground Loop things:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-Ground-Isolator-Filter-Stereo/dp/B00INV5LB6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41-9H3Hc3mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1TTNMJANJDTK26VVSAE7
Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-201-086-Skytronic-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857227&sr=8-1&keywords=Ground+Loop+Isolator
Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!
Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together! http://imgur.com/UYaQQUZ
Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can! http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/26306849
Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!
http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/31799799
dM
No. There is no problem. The 305's hiss by themselves though, so get ready for that.
Although I reccomend purchasing these:
http://www.ghentaudio.com/part/c02.html
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-5-Pack-Plated-Adapter/dp/B0141KPE50/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1481487496&sr=8-6&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca+adapter
over:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481487534&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+3.5mm+to+1%2F4
just for quality/lasting reasons
Those loudspeaker jacks on the left side are for attaching another cabinet (speakers without an amp) to your amp. That "internal off" switch means you can drive a separate cabinet (treating your amp as a head) or you can run both the speakers in the combo and external speakers.
Which adapter are you using from your computer currently? The normal input jack on an amp (usually) takes a 1/4" TS (mono) cable in, so your adapter might be a 3.5mm TRS (stereo) male -> 1/4" TRS female cable.
What you really want is the stereo signal from your computer's mini jack to be split into two 1/4" male jacks.
If you have the adapter as I described above, you can use the cable you listed to go into the aux in on the amp. That's what I would do. Alternatively, if you have a different adapter (like 3.5" male-> 1/4" male, which wouldn't plug into the one you listed), you could use this cable instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520265704&sr=1-4&keywords=TRS+to+TS
Keep in mind that your amp cabinet has two 12" speakers and there's no tweeter to handle high frequencies. You're going to get a low-range response and the drums (particularly the hi-hat) are going to sound muffled no matter what.
Yup.
these are my favorite for hand held PO noodling since they keep the cable neat cooked up like that. Takes up less room than a straight 3’ cable would.
And these guys are great for a nice solid desktop setup.
Depending on how you record or mix the output, you may want to pickup a 3.5mm to 1/4” breakout cable to deal with any stereo/balancing issues you might encounter.
I personally recommend the Klipsch ProMedia as the best sub-$200 option. Sound is really solid and it's definitely got the bass. Plugging your computer in is straightforward and I believe the newest version has bluetooth as well. Best Buy used to have it as a demo with their computer speakers, not sure if they do anymore.
A better option might be studio monitors like the JBL LSR305/LSR30X which are also an insane deal. You'd need to get a bluetooth adapter and you'd need to worry about inputs (many studio monitors take 1/4" or XLR, which would require janky adapters (probably won't sound great out of a headphhone out without something like this) or a dac/audio interface like this or this. The JBL approach will get you a better sound (more accurate to the music, more balanced sound, magical amazing beautiful and perfect imaging) but will probably be a bit above what you'd like to spend. Most of that stuff can also be bought used if you are okay with that.
I would try and stretch or save up a bit for the monitors. They're a pretty solid step up from most all "computer speakers," and the JBLs in particular are one of the best bang-for-buck deals in audio that I've seen.
Best of luck, and feel free to shoot me a PM with more questions or what you decide to do!
yes.
Depending on your mixer, all you need is this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522086784&sr=8-4&keywords=1%2F8+to+trs
plug into headphone jack, plug into 1/4 inputs on mixer.
You need one of these cables.
I'd recommend to stick to reputable brands -
Those included cords will not cover all of your needs since the Scarlett Solo does not have TRS or XLR output. You could actually just plug this into your computer's headphone jack (if the DAC is good). What's the point of the Scarlet interface other than a volume control knob? It just seems like a lot to spend at your budget if that's its main use.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/
since you need to get it tonight, i would check at a music equipment store, like Guitar Center, or similar.
My Christmas gifts have complicated my computer setup and I am wondering if a Schiit Uber stack is the answer.
I got myself a pair of JBL LSR305's and was gifted some Sennheiser 598's.
Currently using this cable to connect the LSR305's to my computer with no easy way to use the headphones or connect my ps3.
The way I picture it working is the computer connecting to the Schiit Modi 2 Uber via USB and the ps3 via optical, with the output running to the amp.
The amp is where my questions are. With the 305's connected to the Magni 2 Uber, will the volume knob control the speaker volume when no headphones are connected? Also, will the output automatically switch over to headphones when I plug them in to the Magni?
My bad, hosa.
Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_whYVzLuecrDTZ
Purchasing them individually will be fine. Each one should come with a power cable. Using them as a pair, each one will need to be plugged into power, and you'll need to connect each one to a signal. The speakers operate completely independently of each other. So to plug it into a normal 3.5mm source, a 3.5mm to 1/4" TS (mono) cable is what you want. XLR should only be used when your source is balanced, which a 3.5mm port from a computer motherboard or phone for instance is not. I used this exact cable with my BX5 D2s for a while until I got an audio interface and went XLR.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500337888&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+to+1%2F4+ts
Yes, using adapters like this or this you can connect them to unbalanced sources using 3.5mm TRS or RCA respectively.
You just need this - https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1403569361&sr=1-1&keywords=hosa+3.5+stereo+to+dual+1%2F4
Connect it to both speakers and the jack goes to pc and configure your soundcard to output stereo instead of 5.1 (I am not sure about this part since ive never used 5.1)
Also your speakers will work in single ended mode which is ok if the cables are not too long.
http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/recording-broadcast/3-series/lsr305#.VtfW7pJriM0
Click the 2nd picture. It uses XLR or TRS (1/4" mono) connectors. You can use a 3.5mm to 2x 6.3mm mono (read: 1/4") Y splitter.
Translated: You need a cable that takes your 3.5mm stereo and makes it into two 1/4" mono.
(You should have a 3.5mm output from your motherboard's audio. But hopefully you'll buy a dedicated DAC if you want better audio.)
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MRSZFN3VTTRTHXTX1PW
That kind of cable. You can use 1/4" mono audio extension cables if you've got longer cable runs.
NOTE: Your link is for ONE JBL LSR305. You'll need two if you plan to run it in stereo. Just sayin'
Do you have a headphone jack on your TV? If so you could get something like this and run it from that into the Aux on that speaker.
Then for power, it looks like a standard power connector which you could use something like this.
Obviously since it is a single speaker, you won't get any L/R separation.
If you like to pump your bass, then I recommend the JBL LSR 305 for $89 each. https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR305-First-Generation-Powered/dp/B00DUKP37C/
The LSR305 are studio monitors that compete well in overall SQ with the best powered speakers <$500. IMO, they have better midbass and deeper bass extension than many other speakers their size. For example their lower end rated response is 43hz for their 5" drivers vs. 60hz for those Edifiers with the smaller 4" drivers. I think realistically, they have solid 50hz performance (and likely the Edifiers would be more like 70hz).
Tons of professional reviews for those speakers as they have been popular for years.
You would need to also purchase a special cable to plug it into your computer: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
To send/receive MIDI you need MIDI to USB interface.
To receive audio signal you need dual 1/4 TS cable to 1/8” TRS cable.
Option1: Money is not an issue:
OP you’re best bet would be a audio interface as it allows you to connect your keyboard plus so much more.
Something like this:
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Scarlet2i4G2--focusrite-scarlett-2i4-usb-audio-interface
And midi cables and TS cables
Option 2: Money is an issue/not ready to for a audio interface:
MIDI to USB built into MIDI cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719V8MX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UBGmDbDYWDC3D
1/4 TS to 1/8 TRS:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XCGmDbF1750Q2
You're going to need a mixer, to take the audio from the microphones and the karaoke backing track and then put out the final version (also some people sing louder than others so you'll need to be able to adjust individual volumes).
This means you'll also need an amplifier, as most TV's don't have an audio in connection.
This means you'll also need speakers.
You could look at getting some decent amplified speakers, you only need one if you're doing this in a home.
Lastly, look into something like Karafun initially as the software. You can take out a 48 hour subscription for about £5 and then you have access to all their songs.Just read about no internet at farm, not even wireless data that you can tether via mobile phone?So to recap, you need to purchase:
Software, look at Karafun, it's likely to do what you need and has all the songsRandom question, I gather you're UK based, are you anywhere near London?
I think there is a tech support sticky...but...my thought is that your 3.5mm to dual 3.5mm is splitting the stereo signal into two separate stereo signals (like for plugging in two sets of headphones for two people to listen at the same time). You want something that splits the stereo signal into separate left and right to go into your speakers, or just a cable like this.
Gotcha, so something like this then?
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
Thanks for the quick reply!
Yamaha HS monitors have 1/4inch TRS and XLR inputs (no RCA as far as I know), so if you wanted to use them with a desktop without any/minimal extra hardware, you could get a 3.5mm to dual 1/4 inch cable (like this); 3.5mm goes into your computer's headphone jack, 1/4 inches go into the monitors.
Someone else can probably give better advice on whether or not to buy a DAC/interface. I use HS7s and I plug them into a Scarlett 2i2, which has 1/4 inch monitor outs. There's also a 1/4 inch headphone jack with separate volume knobs, so I can switch between monitors and headphones without much fuss. I'm pretty happy with that setup, but a 2i2 might be overkill just for that alone (I use it for recording from XLR mics as well, that's its main purpose).
If you're using a USB headset, you can keep them plugged in for both of the above approaches and switch audio devices via your OS when you need them.
It will be easy to find out. Plug your headphones into the female end. Plug one of the two male plugs into your keyboard and play something. If you only hear sound in one ear, you're good to go.
If you want to go dual 1/4" male into a single stereo male mini plug, you can buy that cable here.
Keep in mind that depending of the quality of your keyboard's internal grounding circuitry, you could get some hum and/or phase issues, but probably shouldn't have any problems.
You have a balanced XLR input and it's only playing the difference between the left and right channels. You're playing a track that has the instruments panned left and right, and the vocals relatively centered.
First, what you want is something more along the lines of this 1/8" to 1/4" breakout cable. If you have a free stereo channel, plug both 1/4" plugs into there, otherwise just plug it into two adjacent mono channels, pan them all the way left and right, and adjust them together.
Second, you should know that most mixers can supply 48V on their XLR inputs. Condenser microphones need that, dynamic mics don't care, but laptop audio ports can fry. 1/4" jacks are safe, though, so always prefer them above XLR for computer/phone/iPod type input.
http://amzn.com/B005HGM1D6
The process is way less complicated than you think.
You didn't mention which model of those speakers you have, but it looks like they all have 1/4" mono inputs. To use those connections you'll need an 1/8" stereo mini plug to dual mono 1/4" plug cable (e.g. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419459816&amp;sr=8-1&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31EXSYIMpUL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40)
As for you computer outputs, you'll want to use the headphone or L/R channel jack (typically green and labeled with a headphone symbol). Configure your sound mixer software to output 2 channel stereo. There is also a good chance it will default to stereo output with something connected to the stereo output jack.
This is the best explanation I can give without more details about the specific equipment.
My new JBL 306p mkII have static to them when not playing any audio
I have them hooked up with TRS to 3.5mm to my rear audio io on my computer.
These are the exact ones I got:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Any recommendations on fixing it? I do have it near some power cords, would that affect it?
How would I connect the TRS 1/4 from the interface to PC. I tried researching it but there isn't much explanation. Would these work?
Nah just these.
No point in using TRS since the Origen does not have any balanced TRS outputs
Easiest is probably just to get a stereo 1/8" to 1/4" cable then pull the two leads apart so they can reach both speakers. XLR vs TS doesn't matter in this case although XLR is more versatile because you can daisy-chain cables.
I'm making an assumption here, but I bet what you've got is a stereo splitter (i.e. for headphones) that is trying to feed a stereo signal to both speakers. Powered monitors usually have a balanced input on them, which uses the same (1/4" TRS) connector as a stereo unbalanced cable. Meaning whats happening here is both speakers are playing the same channel because left and right haven't been separated.
What you need is a breakout (or insert) cable like this. This will separate left and right signals onto two plugs. This is an unbalanced cable, but it really shouldn't matter in this case.
I haven't heard that sub but it appears to be designed to go with the 305s so they should sound great together.
Both the speakers and the sub take trs or xlr in so to connect them up to a PC you would need a stereo 3.5mm to trs converter like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483256305&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Trs&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41xj746I2QL&amp;ref=plSrch). That would go from the jack on the back of the motherboard to each speaker with no sub or into the sub inputs then from the sub outputs to the speakers using just straight trs or xlr cables. You would need the same cable for surrounds but you would skip the sub and go straight into the speakers.
I have the 502 module. Does the 500 module have L/R direct output? If so, I’ve used a dual quarter-inch to single eighth-inch cable going directly from the L/R jacks to the microphone jack in the computer, and it sounds perfect.
If not, the best I could recommend is to maybe buy a better guitar cable, as I don’t know the ins and outs of recording through the headphone jack.
Do you have any equipment already? What outputs do you have on your computer?
If you just have a 3.5mm headphone jack, you can use some cords like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/
It may not work well, depending on how how loud (static-y) your pc is. But it will work.
The next level up would be to get an audio interface; the Scarlett Focusrite is a popular brand for this. This interface hooks up to your PC through USB, and has outputs that are designed for monitors like the 305P.
I'm not sure if you know, but this JBL is an active studio monitor. It's main use is for people mixing music, who want a consistent sound. Some people just use it to listen to music, but many consider passive speakers to be better for home use. Have you looked at your options?
To go direct to your PC, a 3.5mm to dual ts cable would work. You'd have to control volume either from the back of each speaker or via windows.
To have a hardware volume knob, get something like the jbl nano patch. For that you'd need two xlr cables and a regular 3.5mm stereo audio cable.
I've never had 'general output problems.'
One thing to note, they made the output of the Microgranny "dual mono" so you could plug in headphones and jam on the train or whatever. If you're plugging into audio gear, you need to plug in a 1/8" TRS cable that splits into two TS on the other side, OR a cable that is specifically designed to sum the signals into a single TS. Anything else could potentially short the left and right channels together and give you problems.
Basically you need to use the same kind of cable you would use with a Korg Volca, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_267_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=X0DVX8ZD0WCRK39S2CEW
OR (my preference)
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-105-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3F
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
;)
This is a situation where you would want an extra output on your interface. But you can make it work, sort of. Use two of these to get audio to and from your monotron/interface.
The thing is, you need to make sure that you don't send the delayed signal back into the output of your interface, or else you are going to get nasty feedback and kill your ears. So you're not going to be able to listen to it while you record. But I guess you could get a headphone splitter for the output of the montron, and use one for headphones and one to send audio to your interface. It may effect sound quality/volume- I've never tried.
From computer, connect mini-USB cable to back of Fiio E10K. Then from Fiio E10K connect from line-out to back of JBLs (it's a 3.5mm stereo jack on the back of the Fiio E10K, you'll need a cable that goes frmo 3.5mm to quarter inch phone cables, like this.
That's all there is to it!
Technically you only need this cable: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
The downside is you'll have to rely on your phone for volume control then because the volume is set per speaker and adjusting it manually would be tedious. You can use this in between the phone and speakers if all you need is volume control. https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Audio-SCH-13-Passive-Preamp/dp/B00K6Q2A4C/
If you're plugging into the gamepad, you would just need something like this:
Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 feet
A mixer is the most straightforward way to go. A USB mixer is the same thing as a non-USB mixer (usually), it just has a sound card built into that you can use instead of the computer’s sound card. In your case, since you have two computers to route through the mixer, at least one of them will need to use the normal analog channels regardless since the USB interface can only be used by one computer at a time.
If you decide not to go with a USB mixer, pretty much any mixer than has two “stereo” input channels will work. If you decide to go with a USB mixer, find one that has at least one additional “stereo” input channel aside from the USB input channel.
I would stay away from routing sound through one of the computers. It adds unnecessary complication, and will almost certainly degrade sound quality. The bulk of the audio problem you experienced earlier though was from a line-level and mic-level mismatch. Simply put, mic inputs expect much lower power than line inputs, and line output send way too much power for a mic input. Even the lowest volume level of a line output will overwhelm a mic input. It’s actually more complicate than this, but that’s accurate enough.
Edit: for a dead-simple solution, this will work: https://www.guitarcenter.com/Yamaha/MG06X-6-Channel-Mixer-1391442168077.gc
Along with two of these cables, one for each computer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/
It has a DAC/AMP built in. The DAC converter is better than the DAC on your motherboard. You don’t need the interface though. You can just plug directly from the 3.5mm jack from your PC into each monitor. Using a cable like this. Plug the red into the right TRS speaker input and the white into the left TRS speaker input. An interface is just the optimal way to use the monitors. But it’s much more expensive as you need to buy the interface as well as the cables.
I've always used the more old school route of passive speakers and receivers or separate amp/preamps, so I'm not expert on this, but I think a cable with 2 male 1/4" TS or XLR to a 3.5mm TRS would do it. like this though it appears out of stock right now. If the sound card in your computer isn't great, there are lots of recommendations on here about pretty reasonable DACs to get that could help in that regard.
These are active speakers, meaning they are each powered by an amp in the speaker cabinet. Traditionally, most speakers are passive, so you need an external amp to get any sound out of them. A receiver is just an amp with other features added, to put it in the most simple terms possible.
> Now, would it be bad to the speakers behind the sides of the monitor? It might not look very great, but I'll have 13" of room on either side. But, I'll also be limited to 9" deep, because of the wall.
As long as the sound waves aren't obstructed by the monitor you should be fine. One thing to keep in mind is that speakers in this price range often have ports (where the air is pushed out as the speaker is operating). In a lot of cases the port is in the back, so you'd want to give at least 6" between the back of the speaker and the wall.
> So the DAC and amp can go anywhere? Like between my desk and the wall (if it'll fit) so that it's hidden?
They can go anywhere, but you may want to keep the amp within arms reach for volume control. Or you can set it to a value and control with your computer. Up to you.
Regarding measurements. Bookshelf speakers vary quite a bit in size, so once you pick whichever set you want just make sure they will fit your desk. The smallest set that's worth buying IMHO is the Micca MB42X.
On another note, I tend to agree with /u/BeardedAlbatross that if you can find JBL LSR305 in your price range then that's the way to go. People are rarely disappointed in them. They have an amp included and you can always run you motherboard as the DAC. So to sum up, if you can find the LSR305 for ~$200 and they would fit your desk then I'd get those and these cables.
If not then the other option I listed with a UCA202 DAC, SMSL SA50 amp, and whichever speaker set you want.
Your question is pretty confusing. Apparently you are using a computer monitor to play your PlayStation on and want to use Yamaha HS-5 studio monitors as speakers?
Yes you can send audio to the computer monitor through the HDMI cable. You don't say which monitor you are using, but apparently it has a 3.5mm output. What i think you need is a stereo 3.5mm to dual 1/4" or XLR cable. This will split the output to a left and right cable you can plug into your speakers. [Something like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6) I don't think you even need to use the audiobox because the speakers are powered and amplify on their own.
Hook them up with an audio interface or cables like these: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CYX-402M-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068OEO or http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6
I recabled my Grados with one of these by clipping off the 1/4 inch ends and soldering to the drivers in the headphones. There is way more length there than you need which leaves you options and the cable is nice and thick. I used a couple of layers of heat shrink tubing to secure the Y split.
Hey, check out the JBL LSR305 and 3.5mm TRS to 6.3mm TS cable. Cheers!
The best in your budget I think is the M-Audio BX5 currently on sale. To connect to your laptop you'll likely need a 3.5mm to dual TS cable like this one.
Alright thanks for replying! Would like to clarify that I'm using this only for consuming music or movies on my PC, not producing/editing music. Would you recommend the Solo too in this case?
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What would be the advantages of getting the DAC you've recommended VS plugging directly into my PC (with Creative® Sound Core 3D chip on motherboard)?? With these cables for example https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6?pldnSite=1
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Would there be less hissing/noise using external DAC? And in terms of sound quality, does it make a difference?
The correct cable 3.5 stereo to dual 1/4 mono.. like this
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
Then plug one of the 1/4 into your interface. The other end doesn't need to be plugged in since the kick has no stereo features. 3.5 to 3.5 stereo or rca will work as well.
3.5 stereo to one 1/4 mono summed is not correct and can cause issues. this cable is not correct
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D
3.5 to 1/4 trs will not work on mono input devices either. this cable is not correct for mono input devices
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-105-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O35
Stereo info is coming out of the Volca, so it won't sound the same as if you plugged your headphones into it. What you need is a stereo breakout cable (such as https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6, for a low-quality example). If you only have one audio input then your method works to make two tracks of audio, but it won't sound the same, or as good imo, as recording the Volca in stereo.
My thoughts exactly...
With $360 you can get
the updated version of these speakers + isolation pads + wires
Or buy some red speakers lol
For an iPad (or anything with a standard headphones-style 3.5mm output jack) you would need a 3.5mm stereo cable that splits two mono 1/4" plugs. Simply plug them into the Line In L/R plugs on one of the other available channels on your mixer.
You can find this cable on Amazon 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS or get one at any electronics store. Guitar Center also carries them.
I'm using a CMP-159 cable that splits 1/8" TRS to left and right 1/4" TS to the speakers. I can hear a hiss if I bring my ears right up to the tweeter. I'm hoping the 2i2 will eliminate that and also make it easier to switch between computer audio and my turntable (LP-60).
I've got a pair of Yamaha HS7 at home and I only use it for listening to music without any studio monitoring purposes, I just like the flat response of it.
So I am currently listening to music in 2 ways:
However; to get a better, more clear and balanced (through XLR inputs of HS7's maybe) sound from HS7's, I think I have to use a better soundcard than the built-in Mac or built-in Logitech adapter. Meanwhile, I also want to continue to listen to music via bluetooth.
So THE QUESTION is, are there any sound cards that has a built-in bluetooth function or is it just impossible/meaningless to use bluetooth if I'm asking for a better quality of sound due to latency, data transmission etc.?
I am not an audio guy, and this is my first professional setup, so I'd be really glad if you can help me out here. I have found a couple mixers that has a bluetooth function such as Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 but I'm not sure if that's what I'm looking for, or if they're any better than the logitech adapter.
Yamaha HS7: https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-HS7-100-Watt-Monitor-Black/dp/B00CFOXHGS/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486638385&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=yamaha+hs7
CMP-159: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486638237&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cmp+159
Logitech Bluetooth Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486638259&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=logitech+bluetooth+audio+adapter
you only need one http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1MRSZFN3VTTRTHXTX1PW if you are going to use the headphone output on your desktop.
you dont "need" a dac but it will improve the sound.
If you need a dual male 1/4" to male stereo 1/8" those cables are super common. If you need a dual male 1/4" to female stereo 1/8" those cables aren't as common but still exist.
You can also easily by the stereo audio cable and each of the connectors you need and do the soldering yourself.
I got a 1/4 TS to 3.5mm cable that I read on another comment to use for my computer
Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4" TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cZ8BDbGQCX98S
The R16 uses combo jacks which can accept XLR or 1/4" line plugs. The 1/4" plugs coming from consumer equipment should be TS unbalanced, not TRS balanced. Something like this if you want stereo
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/
or this for mono
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-303-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3G/
Don't go real cheap with analog cables. It matters less with digital but just make sure it's not bottom tier and has a good rating.
The ATR2100 is a decent mic, but it's the USB/XLR flexibility that gets it flagged as a preferred mic. Nothing wrong with it, but look around at the other options in your price range like the Shure SM58 at $100 or the Blue EnCORE 100. Price varies a lot for these but a two pack plus some kit is $130 here
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Encore-Microphone-Stands-Cables/dp/B01LONG3FM/
The ATR is not bad. Just suggesting options. For the record, I do not own an enCORE 100. I do have an enCORE 300.
!
Here you go, have a look at this post
https://www.gearslutz.com/board/newbie-audio-engineering-production-question-zone/959088-focusrite-scarlet-2i2-computer-speakers.html
> 1. (preferred) Use the Scarlett 2i2 main outputs on the back panel labeled "Line Outputs (1) Left and (2) Right". Those are balanced TRS outputs, but since you are going into an unbalanced stereo input the correct connection is via a dual 1/4-inch TS to 3.5 mm stereo mini TRS cable. This is sometimes called an "Insert", "Splitter" or "Breakout" cable. Plug into the FPS1500 jack labeled; "Audio Inputs FRONT"
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412796471&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3.5+mm+stereo+to+dual+1%2F4+inch+TS+cable&amp;tag=pda0ea-20
I've never tried this, so I can't guarantee it works, I'm not an expert in connecting XLR/TRS outputs to things, I'm afraid.
> What cables do I need?
A cable like this will do the trick.
> Does it come with packaged with these cables?
Nope.
You can just use a cable like this to connect those speakers to the Airport Express.
If you want to be able to switch between inputs (such as your Airport and your MacBook/iPhone/whatever), you can get a Schiit Sys and a cable like this to go between the Sys and the JBLs.
You don't really need a Modi or any DAC. The DAC in any of your devices is plenty capable. If you're looking to spend $100 somewhere, add it to your speaker budget.
I would get a DAC for it, but to go straight to the computer you can simply get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6.
As for volume control, I leave the volume on the back at around 12 o clock and just leave it there while just controlling my windows volume.
You can get a volume controller for your speakers that look like this: http://www.tcelectronic.com/level-pilot/ this will need some different cables.
OR you can get a volume controller for you computer audio like this: http://griffintechnology.com/support/powermate
Why not the LSR305's? Bx5's are still a fine choice though. I was satisfied with them until I upgraded.
I have used these for the mono Volcas.
https://www.gear4music.com/G4M/Minijack-Jack-Cable-1m/108P
For the stereo Volcas these worked.
https://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6
The Hosa cables will work but you end up only plugging one of the 1/4 cables in. I found the mono cables to be more tidy.
Silly me, i forgot the JBLs do not have RCA inputs.
This cable to split the output from the source:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/
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This cable for the speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/
This cable for the subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I3CwDb0R2S5CH
Here's a suggestion: 2x JBL LSR305 MK2; and this cable. Then buy a Chromecast Audio which is about $35. (not available on amazon because they hate google). This will give you wifi connected audio you can cast to from spotify or other sources. I have 2 of these setups in my house; these speakers can play very loud.
They're active speakers, so you don't need an amp - their power comes from a standard plug in the wall. You'll need to buy a 3.5mm to TRS cable. Something like this
This cable is what you need for the mixter-to-computer interface.
As for microphone, many streamers use a "Large Diaphram Condenser" microphone. Condenser microphones require what's called "Phantom Power" to power a small circuit board within the mic for it to work. That's the reason that your $20 mic has a power supply.
My recommendation would be to buy something like this Audio Technica mic and get a mixer that has phantom power. This little Mackie board would do the trick. Alternatively, you could buy a "Phantom Power Supply" as a standalone component to provide the power to the mic.
That mic will be more reliable and sound better than the $20 one you picked.
I don't see any product info available for a Stagepas 800i, but I do see info for both a Stagepas 400i and a 600i. Is your unit actually one of those models?
If it is either one of those, the RCA jacks on both of them are line level inputs, not outputs. The monitor outputs are dual 1/4" jacks just to the right of the one you were trying to use.
You will need an appropriate TS stereo breakout cable such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6
That depends on how good your onboard card is. Most likely your music will improve with an external DAC, but it's not necessary. You can just connect the monitors to your computer via a dual XLR to single 3.5mm cable it dual 1/4" TRS to single 3.5mm cable. Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YSAVW28/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527275283&amp;sr=8-3&amp;refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=dual+xlr+to+3.5mm&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41QfDUacaOL&amp;ref=plSrch
Or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527275339&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=dual+trs+to+3.5mm&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=412pZdj%2BazL&amp;ref=plSrch
Ill be using something like this to plug my phone/ipod in until I can afford a nice reciever if I do get BX5. That will work right? I won't be using a computer yet then that's more to drop down for a nice audio card.
One of these to connect the Fulla 2 to your computer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EK87WXK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
One of these to connect your LSR-305's to the Fulla 2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You're all set after that.
Thanks, I really appreciate that. The speakers should arrive tomorrow and the sub on Thursday. So far, I've got two sets of these Male XLR to Female XLR and one of these 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4.
I use a standing desk thats about 5 ft wide, so I figured just put a speaker on each side of the desk and the sub on the floor. I'm sure this is a naive question, but what more is there to consider acoustically without going nuts and spending a bunch of money?
Getting ready to purchase the JBL LSR305's as recommended. I like to have higher quality systems at work, but I wanted some decent sound for the house computer.
Aside from these Breakout Cables, is there anything else I need / can do to improve the sound (that's worth the effort?) I just plug this straight into my Mobo's audio jack right? Would a dedicated soundcard make a significant difference? Would a USB to DAC to Breakout cables be worth it? If so any recommended DACs for these speaks? I'm mostly only familiar with headphone setups
Fyi I already have a lot of high quality source music so I'm mainly just talking about the hardware
I have questions regarding what type of wiring I need to connect two JBL LSR305 to a Focusrite 2i4. I ordered two of these wires by a suggestion from an older post here and I don't I got the right ones. I am planning to head out to Sam Ash soon and I need a suggestion of the type of wires I need to connect two JBL LSR305 to a Focusrite 2i4
Cool, I've already ordered this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
Just wanted to make sure it would work.
What would be the sound quality difference if I were to get a DAC? I know balanced vs unbalanced probably won't be much of a difference over the small area that I'll be running the cables and with the minimal interference around.
>What are you feeding into the JBL's? Computer, phone, etc.
I'm using this cable to connect them to my PC's stereo output jack: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6
>How are the speakers placed? On a shelf, on stands, etc.
At the front edges of my computer desk about 4-5 feet apart and hanging over the front edge an inch or two. The speakers are about level with my ears when sitting on my sofa listening to music, and are pointed slightly inward as per the card that came with the speakers.
>That said, speakers loved by "audiophiles" (especially in this price range and form factor) don't necessarily "wow" - they aim for accuracy and to get out of the way of the music more than anything else.
To clarify what I meant by "wow" - basically I was expecting to be blown out of the water as to the amazing quality of the sound coming out of the speakers. Not necessarily "wow that's some amazing bass", etc. (Even though the LSR305's bass is very impressive to my ears.) It's not that the speakers don't sound good, it's just I was expecting to hear the best quality sound I've ever heard in my life by far, and perfection, or close to it.
It's hard for me to put into words how I feel about the sound that the LSR305's produce and what I'm not sure whether I like about it or not. I hear the term "warmth" being thrown around a lot in general, and I'm wondering if that's what describes what I might feel the LSR305's possibly lack. Almost slightly digital and cold? I don't know. I also noticed that it's harder to hear vocals on some songs vs. when listening on headphones or my OEM car speakers, like they're turned down in the mix a bit. I noticed the bass level drops off with minor listening distance changes too but that's probably got nothing to do with these speakers and more to do with me never having speakers that produced decent bass before, meaning less level change to notice...
>In contrast, the Pioneer BS22s (while still very accurate for their price) are designed for slightly more of a recreational listening experience - a slight hump in the bass, with rolled off treble. A lot of people find that more enjoyable. There's a tradeoff, of course. It's like wearing tinted glasses. Things might look "better" but they'll definitely be less accurate.
Thanks. Maybe I would enjoy them better then. Before I do anything with the LSR305's (I've still got a month to return them), maybe I'll buy some BS22's and a cheap used receiver (hopefully most older receivers produce decent audio quality) and do a comparison, I guess that's the only way to really find out.
Yes my goal is use the mixer to combined my xbox audio and all PC audio (including Skype, Music, etc.) Then plugging my my Audio Technica ath-m50x headphones into the mixer to hear both. The mic I am using is the Audio Technica AT2020. The problem that I am running into is the the people on the other end of the Skype call can hear my Xbox audio when I have in plugged into the channel 3/4 via the [this cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
Also the mixer did not come with any software. I have been looking for the properties to my sound card (which I believe is built into my motherboard) and I have found nothing that looks like it could fix the problem.
Lol I am truly sorry that you go stuck helping me. I'm surprised that you haven't just stopped replying. i really do appreciate it!
Just get yourself
twoone of these and you are good!Don't bother with USB. Just use cables like this -- pick up at least 3, they are absolutely the most useful cables you'll ever use for dealing with this.
Just connect your pc's stereo out (green plug) to the mixer's line-in 4/5, and connect your mixer's Main Out to your pc's line-in (blue plug). Connect your kit to the mixer's line-in 2/3, and plug your headphones into the Phones port. If you have a mic, just plug it into the mic port.
That will give you full control, everything will be 100% in sync, and you just have to add Line In as an audio source in OBS.
It's connected straight to my Surface Pro with this cable. Sometimes it also feels like the left side is a bit lower than the right side but idk if thats just me.
Oh and also, would this cable work ? I'm from Europe, can't find the exact same cord. https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF
If you have a USB 2.0 capture card, any audio to desktop through HDMI will have a slight delay.. so that's probably not an option.
I literally had this exact same problem OP, and I am pleased to say that I've fixed it (albeit needing more equipment than I thought I would need).
You could run a 3.5mm audio cable from the Wii U headphone jack into your mixer, but that only works for the Wii U. If you ever wanted to stream another console, you might not be able to use the same method. That's why I use an HDMI audio extractor.
I have a Xenyx 802, and here's my setup:
HDMI Audio Extractor: Amazon
Cables going from HDMI audio extractor to mixer: Amazon
Adapters for RCA to 1/4": Amazon
From PC headphone jack to mixer: Amazon
Then I just use a 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter in the headphone port of the mixer and boom -- all the audio from both desktop AND console to one headset.
Disclaimer: There may very well be a better / more efficient way to do this.. I admit that I'm still a pretty big noob when it comes to audio equipment, but this was my holy grail for the longest time, and I finally found a way to do it :).
What are the differences between these two ?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
https://www.sweelee.com.sg/products/hosa-hmp-006y-pro-y-cable-3-5mm-trs-to-1-4inch-6ft
Thank you so much, very informative and helpful, now that I look at a picture of the back panel as I don't have the monitors in front of me, inconveniently enough- it's not a 3.5mm to rca I have it's the one that goes to 2 quarter inch cables and are plugged into the "balanced" slot! Sorry that I mislead, but could I get some help on this setup?
This is the current setup with two monitors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_267_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=E7THNS4Z17JSG0M5ANBF
Will the XLRs work in this case?
I need some help. Below I am going to list all the stuff that I currently have.
My goal is to use my JBL Speakers to play audio for Netflix which is run through an Apple TV.
I plug the Hosa cables into the JBL speakers and then into the 3.5mm to RCA. The RCA is plugged into the converter. The converter has a digital optical cable plugged into it. The other end of the optical cable is plugged into the Apple TV.
All I hear is hissing. No sound from the Netflix show.
Please let me know if I need to supply any additional information.
vizio tv
https://www.cnet.com/products/vizio-e371vl/
apple tv 3rd generation
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT200008#appletv-3rd
digital to analog converter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
3.5mm female to 2 male rca
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0156F38LG?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Hosa 3.5mm TRS to dual 1/4" stereo breakout cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
JBL speakers (lsr305)x2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DUKP37C?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
I wish I could but I don't have any cables like this http://amzn.to/2bQJTnj . And my room isn't very big, its a small bedroom.
If you want to spend money and not just use your laptop you will need the following.
3 XLR microphones, stands and cables
A mixer with at least 3 XLR inputs
If you want to all listen on headphones you will need a splitter for that
A few assorted cables i will list
And garage band or some other recording software.
I have listed below what i used starting out.
[Microphones] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T45X1G/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
[Stands] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002M3OVI/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
[Mixer] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J5Y282/ref=oh_details_o08_s02_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
[Headphones splitter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M0TN6U/ref=oh_details_o08_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
[Microphone cables] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008B2DBY6/ref=oh_details_o08_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
[Other cables] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=oh_details_o08_s02_i02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) These are used to go from your mixer into the recording device and also from the mixer into the headphone splitter.
Hope this helps.
Looks like you were right. You'll want a 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS cable or adapter to plug it in properly.
Something like this here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6
I have LSR305's also and used this to connect to pc, no dac yet but may add one in the future.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_267_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=TRCMX6YGQEAV0B8E3C0Q
I'd suggest not getting one until you try it without first.
I've got a pair of the jbl305s that run straight from my phone or amazon dot with an adapter cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_aw_sim_267_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Z1QG6SVJ3S6YWCT8V27D).
For now, I'm happy with the results and in the future I'll have a reference point to better understand the value from adding an external DAC.
Related question: If I use a stereo 1/8" to 1/4 mono TRS splitter, would I be dealing with two separate mono channels at that point (like any other mono signal, guitar etc)? That I could then route directly to the appropriate L or R speaker?
Mike was right, except replace RCA with 1/4". Clicky
You are also correct about the Stereo into Mono being the reasons for your problems. The Focusrite has 2 mono preamps, so you still need to break up the stereo signal from your Monitor into 2 separate mono channels...thus you still need a 'Stereo 3.5mm to 2 x 1/4" Mono' breakout cable ;) But this is pretty much unnecessary as your monitors are self-powered and can run straight from your computer monitor. This is how I run it off my TV into my monitors. Less cables, but good enough sound.
Stereo TRS -- Tip - Left, Ring - Right, Sleeve - Ground.
Balanced TRS -- Tip - Signal, Ring - Out-of-Phase Signal, Sleeve - Ground
Here is the biggest issue, running through your computer monitor is using your monitor's DA Converter, which is probably pretty shite. You would gain little benefit from using your Focusrite after going through that conversion. The best way would be to use the optical (digital) out of the PS4, or split the HDMI into a digital audio output with a splitter, but the Focusrite has no input for ADAT or SPDIF or AES anyways.
So, as long as there is no issue with your monitors having both 1/4" and XLR inputs at the same time, I would run the 3.5mm->1/4" straight to your monitors, Focusrite output to XLR inputs for your computer, and leave the preamp inputs on your Focusrite open for recording =)
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6 into a single channel DI. Nothing crazy, but not how the gear is meant to be used.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_img_z
that cable would be the simplest and easiest way to hook it up. I am currently on a PC but on most macbooks you can change the headphone out to become a line out. That will get rid of some added noise that the built in headphone amp produces.
If you hear too much hiss or noise in the signal you will have to get some kind of audio interface or DAC converter.
Before spending the $$ on a new sound card, try getting a better cable set up going. you want to limit the amount of connections being made as possible. in your case, you have the white cable being put through an adaptor, and the red cable being put through 2 adapters. Something like this should do the trick
Another thing you want to make sure to take care of is that you keep all audio signal cables away from any power cables. Audio cables will very often pick up external interference from nearby power cables.
lastly, you could also try is to adjust either the line in volume in audacity and the aux out on your piano.
Often times, having the gain set too high on one of these will cause a bit of noise because of excess interference from internal amplifiers and such.
In the end though, if you're recording into a laptop, there will often be interference leaking through due to the close proximity of components.
You could get a 1/4 TS to 3.5mm TRS stereo adapter (something like this https://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6) and record using the microphone port on your computer but you will probably have issues with latency and perhaps audio quality as well..but it would work in a pinch and might be good enough for what you want.
They are powered monitors, so no amp is necessary. all you need is a cable like this one
However, that being said, you would significantly benefit from a usb DAC with lineouts to input into the speakers.
There's a nice discount on those right now here.
Depending on your connections, all you probably need is a 3.5mm to dual TS cable, like this.
Do not use an amplifier with powered monitors. A pre-amp is ok, though.
The problem is you need something to control the sound level, especially if you're going to be laying in bed and need to remotely lower/increase volume. Something like an Emotiva Stealth DC-1 would work. I know that's out of your budget, but just as an example.
I asked a very similar question a little while back that might help answer some questions, too. Found here.
If you don't have a DAC then all you would need is 2 TRS to 1 3.5 mm cable. Such as these https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
Get on Amazon and order: 3.5mm to Dual TRS, that's always the best/cheapest option for computer/phone audio, IMO.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
If you can increase your budget a bit, buy two of these JBL LSR305 for $198 shipped on sale. Excellent sound quality and really don't need a subwoofer to get decent bass.
http://www.markertek.com/product/jbl-lsr305/jbl-lsr305-5-inch-two-way-powered-studio-monitor-each
They are powered so you don't need to buy a receiver of amp. Just need cables, cheapest route but you might have some noise issues from the computer's digital-to-analog converter (DAC): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_img_y If that happens, an audio interface likely would solve it and probably improve sound quality over your computer's DAC (plus you would have easy to access volume control), e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B0023BYDHK
No preamp needed. There are two mono (L/R) 1/4" outputs. so just make sure you have a cable to get both channels recorded (I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478984046&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=stereo+hosa+cable)
If you just have a regular soundcard with a 1/8inch input jack, I think you could use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478984046&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=stereo+hosa+cable
Or you can just use the headphone out, which is just a 1/4" stereo out.
Line Out's are typically analog 3.5mm stereo, so something like this should work.
Some newer computers actually combine analog and digital inside the Line Out. For instance on my PC motherboard, MacBook, and iMac, all of them have a Line Out combined with an Optical digital output. This looks like a red light shining inside the jack when the digital output is enabled. Normally you will see this kind of digital i/o labeled as an ADAT or Optical connection like this. To use the Optical connection from inside the Line Out you need a Toslink adapter, which adapts a standard Optical cable to insert into the LineOut jack.
I don't think the Scarlett 6i6 has an optical input, but the reason I mention it is that a digital connection would be the cleanest sounding. Analog is still great though I would have no reservations about it but if you can go digital why not.
Thanks! Would something like this work?
Can i just get this instead? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/
I'd recommend using a DAC and an RCA to 1/4 inch adapter cable. You could use your onboard audio with Amazon's suggested cable, but it's generally recommended to avoid onboard audio if possible.
this for the audioengines...http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=pd_sim_23_6?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41Ah4d8l6SL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1NRXGJGP59RZFCHSQ6PH ...this for the JBLs...http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_8?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1V9SBDW82NP47C1YBXZC ...as for connecting the sub...It would be easier if it had the speaker terminals that had an input too...but you can split the rca jacks with some y-adapters...for the JBLs you'll need these also...http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-GPR101-Inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449258390&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=rca+to+trs
I'll vouch for the M-Audios. I have the BX8 D2's and they sound absolutely fantastic playing just about anything, including any sort of electronic music. I found them at Mac Mall for $389. You should be able to plug them directly into your laptop using an 1/8" to TS cable like this. You can of course substitute a longer/shorter/better cable to suit your tastes.
that monitor has a headhphone jack, so you technically use something line this:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6
and connect it to the 1/4 inputs on the speakers, but controlling the volume would be hard without going through the audio interface unless you can reach behind the speakers easily and adjust it every time
Getting a DAC to go from the optical out on the PS4 only would move were the signal comes out since the headphone jack on that monitor is doing the same thing effectively by making a analog out from the HDMI's signal.
If that monitor has volume controls , then just that cable I linked to the speakers should be fine depending on the quality of the DAC in the monitor though it might not be as good as you want so then looking to a dac might be better.
Hello, I am not really sure what type of amplifier I should purchase for beginner setup. I recently purchased a Micca MB42X for $50. I plan on purchasing another speaker as well. I need help on what type of amplifier I need to buy, along with, what wires I should purchase as well. I have allotted roughly $80 towards the budget of the amplifier. I plan on using Chromecast audio to stream music.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6 is this what I need to purchase to make the Chromecast compatible with an amplifier?
From my research, the SMSL SA-60 appears to be a good amplifier to purchase with these speakers.
Also, what speaker wire should I purchase?
Any advice or tips are appreciated, thanks.
What you need is:
Chromecast -> 3.5mm to 2x TS -> Subwoofer -> 2xXLR -> Each monitor
Not quite sure with studio monitors... but It looks like the cable below is the easiest bet. You could either do that or a balanced cable, but those are more expensive. Also you would need a soundcard with XLR inputs
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1HWSHQVBNZB22JTEN8FX
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B005HGM1D6&amp;pd_rd_r=WHVJD2SFVQYPJM8TG1J4&amp;pd_rd_w=hmat3&amp;pd_rd_wg=xlSUp&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=WHVJD2SFVQYPJM8TG1J4
should be that
Each Volca comes with a stereo 3.5mm cable. Plug one into the sync out of one into the sync in of the other. You'll then need a mixer to hook the headphone out to for each Volca.
Here's a cheap mixer, and you'll need one of these cables for the Bass, and one of these cables for the Sample.
Hmm this is tricky, this is how I would do it based on what you provide.
Am I missing anything?
Nope. The HS5s have unbalanced TRS connections. You can use Hosa's dual TRS to single 3.5mm cable to attach them straight to your motherboard. No interface needed.
/u/andribarker should also check this out too. This is exactly how I have my own personal Yamaha HS5 pair connected to my computer, since I'm a stingy bastard who has yet to purchase an interface or external DAC as I just use my Soundblaster ZX soundcard for output.
There's two ways to do this:
Lots keyboard synths and workstations have line audio outputs. They could be 3.5mm or 1/4 inch TS. The 1/4 inch TS should plug directly into your 2i2. There are adaptors that will convert 3.5mm to 1/4 inch TS.
> Also - is there no absolute low class in the 150€ range? Like with less octaves or sth. like that.
I'm not sure what your are asking?
Since you have a computer it might be best to buy a MIDI controller (without any build in sounds) to play virtual instruments (VSTs) on your computer. Many of them have MIDI over USB and would connect directly to your computer without a separate adaptor.
This sort of cable should work.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449773678&amp;sr=1&amp;keywords=3.5mm+to+dual+trs
Do you know if this would work coming out of the d1 for the lsr305s? For getting the sound from the TV.
And this:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B00NH11H38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449773786&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optical+audio+cable
For connecting the TV to the DAC?
Don't understand if you understand the wiring?
In a common scenario, you would need two of these from the pc's in to two channels, and this or this.
What kind of speakers do you have?
And for the headset, the adapter is a 3,5mm to 6,3mm which costs a couple of dollars.
You will need this cable to connect whatever is your source (ipod, phone, chromecast) to the sub.
And a pair of this to connect the sub to the speakers.
Assuming they are the JBL LSR305 speakers, this is how you would do it...
Headphone jack out of iMac --> This cable --> Red side to the left speaker/white side to the left speaker
If they're not the JBL LSR305s, let me know what they are and I can help you better.
Hey guys, so I just purchased a pair of HS7 and have a little connectivity issue. I have a MacBook Pro and i just realized the Yamahas don't have RCAs, but TRS and XLRs. Can I use this cable? https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Feet-Speaker-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_cp_MI_0
It's a dual TRS to 3,5 right? Should work, shouldn't it?
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/CMP110
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
Hello, I have a quick question, I just bought 2 bx5a studio monitor
I would like to know if this wire is the good one to connect them to my iphone/pc/ dj controller
Thank you !!
https://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6
Fluances will be better. Probably something like the signature series.
With the JBLs you need a way to get 3.5mm into dual 1/4" sockets. Something like this and then two of these could work.
I recommend bookshelf speakers over studio monitors for anything except making music. Studio monitors don't sound good, they just sound flat. They have no character or excitement. They're very sterile, and you don't want that.
This is the my current setup. Sorry it's not really the best picture to show how and where everything is. It's certainly not as clean now as it is in the picture.
I game in the recliner which is slid closer to the tv because I'm blind, and not all text scales to my liking. I also have a table that I didn't have when I took the picture.
I have USB extension cords for my mouse and keyboard because I don't do wireless. I use my armrest as my mouse pad with my DPI set at 1600 to 2200. My keyboard sits on my lap.
From the tv there's a 3.5mm audio extension cable to a spitter to a headphone amp. The reason for the amp is because Sennheiser HD558s headphones are quiet straight out of my pc, and most Wii U games don't have in-game volume control. Also the volume control on the tv doesn't affect the headphone jack.
For my mic I have one of these bad boys.
I want to get a pair of JBL LSR305's and i want to know if with http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_img_y i will be able to connect both of them with just 1 cord not sure what i need . sorry for my noobness
I have them connected into a passive volume controller via XLR that is connected to a Xonar DG soundcard via this thing:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421224021&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=trs+to+3.5mm
I didn't feel like purchasing an interface/dac. Sounds good to me and there is no "loud" buzzing. They may pick up some computer noise if the SC isn't shielded. You'd have to buy them and see what happens with your setup.
You want something like this, to go from direct line out of your digital piano into the line in of your PC sound card. Source: I have done this exact thing with my Roland RP-301. Only question is whether your Privia has the 1/4 line out.
Edit: You need to combine this with a DAW like Logic, Garageband, Reaper etc. Audacity would be very minimal but would get the job done.
what about something like this? here
[Note: click reply at the bottom of this comment. Do not add a comment at the top when you reply to this.]
The Alesis mixer can be plugged into the monitor's USB port, where it will act as an audio I/O for the Mac. The headphones and mic can be plugged directly into the mixer. The PC can be plugged into the mixer's EXT IN jack with a 3.5mm cable, or to one of the balanced inputs with a 3.5mm-to-dual-XLR cable.
The PS4 apparently doesn't seem to support audio on the USB port; what information I can find discusses using an HDMI audio extractor or the controller's headphone jack. I may be wrong about USB support. I don't own a PS4.
An HDMI extractor like this would do, but you would need extra cables:
https://smile.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B07G46T8L5/
Edit: You can connect the Razer speakers to the Alesis with this cable (no support for Synergy control):
https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
Cripes, why didn't I go back to the manual. I needed to plug it into #4 the pre-amp out for monitors, that fixed it right there.
new question, is my sound quality going to be better if i switch to a [Stereo breakout cable] (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536037611&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=1%2F8+to+dual+ts) or should just stick with the 1/8" cable?
Yeah, that will be fine. Even better would be to use the two 1/4" line outputs with a cable like this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/
Hosa cables don't tend to be the best for longevity, but you get the idea of what to look for.
All you need. Volume control won't be the best though, so unless you want to use your phone or constantly reach behind the speakers and mess up the placement, its worth getting either this or this.
If you don't want to get an interface you could use this cable that plugs into your headphone jack https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=dual+1%2F4+trs&amp;qid=1551275308&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-7
They would likely work, but the owner's manual for your speakers recommends using the TRS Jack for unbalanced connections rather than the XLRs.
It doesnt actually say if it's 1/4" or 1/8", but looking at it and going with my gut I'm going to say that its 1/4". So you'd probably want a 1/8" male trs (stereo) plus to dual 1/4" TS (mono) plugs.
Something like this
But if you consider the output amp thing- The unbalanced wires are giving me no problems.
I have bought these btw for connecting my KRKs to my macbook pro
http://www.amazon.in/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6
I have a dual PC stream setup and I currently use a mixer to receive both audio sources into my headphones.
There are probably cheaper options than what I have, but it is fairly cheap in comparison to what some get and I think it does a fantastic job.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Xenyx-Q502USB-Audio-Mixer/dp/B008O516JW Runs $60 dollars on Amazon, but I picked one up at my local guitar center for 40 a little while back.
With this, you will also need to get different cable to match the input for the mixer. I currently have two of these and they work perfect. Only $4 dollars as well so not too much more onto your investment.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_sim_267_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41xj746I2QL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=12PC9MK9VJ0BBG6XEFQ9
The other option you can do is plug a 3.5 to 3.5 aux cable from your computer linein to your TV headphone jack if there is one present. This will allow the sound to play using your computer sound card and can be activated for listening in the audio control section. A fair warning though, the computer can create a hum noise that will transmit to your stream. If you don't hear the hum, you should be good to go, but I figured I should warn you. I also don't know how to fix the hum but there is probably something online to resolve the issue if needed.
Anyways! I hope this helped!
Thanks!
Okay in that case I would need one of these to go from the MK3 into my computer's output, right? And then this from the MK3 into my Pioneer?
I want to be able to record my computer's output into the MK3 as well as the Pioneer (for things like CDs and Tapes).
This is the cable I would use to connect a pod v2 to the line input on a Bluetooth speaker with minimal latency: Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4" TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 9 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OiY4CbP0BP4MJ
Get two of these
Plug one laptop into L R channels 2 and 3. Plug the other into 4 and 5. What kind of speakers are you using. If Regular computer speakers then you’ll need a 1/8” to 1/4” adapter
How would I connect the JBL 305p to a turntable with a built in preamp (AT-LP60), if I'm also connecting it to pc with this cable?
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6?pldnSite=1
The monitors you have will accept unbalanced input too. As an example, if you needed to connect to a phone or computer headphone jack to these monitors, you would use something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
For devices with RCA output (e.g. CD player), use something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/d/RCA-Cables/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/B000068O17/
I purchased a pair of JBL 305P MkII 5" (new model)
, hooked up to my existing FiiO E10K USB DAC and Amplifier line out with Hosa Breakout Cable, Mini Stereo 3.5 mm to Mono 6.3 mm
When the JBL volume is at 3, it sounds fine, at volume of 5 I hear static. This is the volume on the JBL itself, the E10K AMP volume isn't controlling the JBL volume for some reason. How can I get rid of the statis at higher volume?
Computer goes USB to SDAC. SDAC goes RCA to 305s using this cable.
You'll either need to get a pre-amp or adjust your volume using your computer.
You other option is to buy a Micca Origen G2. That's a DAC with a built in pre-amp. if you get the Origen, you would need this cable.
Get a cable like this.
Something like this would work:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
PM me if you have any questions about our speakers!
Lsr305's are powered monitors and don't need an external amplifier. Assuming you're just using the 3.5mm out on your motherboard, you'll be looking for these.
Short end to your computer, long ends one to each speaker:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
TBD. We were honestly hoping to get a few episodes in the can before making any major investments, but that might be unavoidable. Here's what I'm looking at so far:
Mixer option 1
Mixer option 2
Mics
Audio out to laptop
XLR cables for phantom power
The mics each come with an XLR to 3.5mm cable which would be swapped out. I'm leaning more toward 4 mics and to have people share mics if we have additional guests. 4 is probably more realistic than 6.
Those 250 ohm headphones will definitely need an amp, there's an 80 ohm version of the 770 that you can run right out the headphone out of that board.
I take it you're going to be going USB in to your PC? Otherwise grab a TRS cable.
I agree that it doesn't have an RCA out. However, looking at the features section on the manufacturer's page, it has front panel headphone jacks and a "Rear 3.5mm stereo analog line level". You can confirm that in this photo.
The cable you linked is TRS (6.35mm) 1/4" to dual TS 1/4". It would work, but getting a cable with a 3.5mm connector instead of 6.35mm would allow connecting to either the front or the back. One such cable is this Hosa cable.
3.5mm to dual TS cable is what you want, something like this
Yeah. You'll want to get one of these cables, and go from your headphone port to either channel 5/6 or channel 7/8. Red goes in Right, black in left.
You will also probably need a ground loop isolater. Something like this one. Otherwise you may hear some static over the wires.
https://slickdeals.net/f/10115092-mackie-cr4-4-50w-reference-multimedia-monitor-speakers-pair-95-after-20-rebate-free-s-h?v=1&amp;src=SiteSearch
using these cables
or something [cheap and decent]
(https://slickdeals.net/f/10113460-anker-soundcore-nano-bluetooth-speaker-pink-or-silver-16?src=SiteSearch)
Look at the proposed systems above both are small enough to fit on a desktop and are fairly cheap as well.
to quote: "
In an effort to cut down on some of the repetitive questions, here are the absolutely cheapest systems we are willing to recommend.
Accessories
For the JBL-based setup, here are some accessories if you want to connect the speakers directly to a computer without an external DAC:
For the Micca setups, you'll need this to connect directly to a computer:
If you're going for the Micca MB42X + SMSL solution, you'll also need speaker wire:
Diagnostically, it is ideal to change only one thing at a time, so using the same input as you already use is a good start.
One of these cables will work properly: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
Note that it is 3.5mm TRS to 1/4" TS. That's important. :)
Hey man thanks again for all the help!
My Monitor is a BenQ RL2755HM
If possible, I'd like to avoid having all of the audio output from my controller.
Again, you're the only person who has knowledge of this stuff that has replied to my post, so I appreciate all of your help!
Yeah, I personally run mine into a mono line on my Xenyx 802 or through the aux in on one of my logues for the same reason. My stereo inputs are balanced or unbalanced so I hadn't ran into the out of phase signal you mention but the only noticeable benefit of running into the stereo input for me is that it improves the texture of the chorus effect just a little bit (but a noticeable little bit nonetheless) due to what ever specific trick it is that they do on that that bounces it to the two parts of the dual mono at different rates. I have more important stuff to feed into those channels considering they have the compressor and pre-gain. I do have one of these on my shopping list though:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2/140-0985239-6023633?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B005HGM1D6&amp;pd_rd_r=DSHSSM99C28JFW1SW1V7&amp;pd_rd_w=YCfSd&amp;pd_rd_wg=4aJQD&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=DSHSSM99C28JFW1SW1V7
Once I get that every single hole on my mixer will have something plugged into it and it will be time to chill on buying new stuff for a while until I upgrade that.
Recently upgrade from passive powered speakers (pw via AVR) to self powered JBL LSR308's.
I bought the 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch cable
and to know to to connect connect my BIC America F12 Subwoofer to the rest of my setup via my PC. The sub has coax and speaker level inputs as well.
I have the same microphone and I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-Premium-5-Input-British/dp/B000J5UEGQ
And this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/
That would be good if you have a line in input on your computer (the blue one)
If not, this would work if you don't mind loosing a USB port:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A/
That would kinda work, but not really. This would work 100%: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EIBCxbM2G7SAF
thanks for the reply, couldn't I just get a 3.5mm/6.3mm TRS to TS adapter and then plug the 793's front output into the mackie cr4? ( http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1XPX1KH7JXFQATGEEJY0)
Hello. I hope this is the appropriate place to post - a bit of an audio noob, so i'm hoping someone(s) will be kind enough to point me in the right direction.
I recently got a pair of JBL LSR305s, however, when plugged into my PC (i use this cable) i hear pretty noticable static and popping (mostly at rest, a little faint when playing something at lower volumes.) I have this motherboard which apparently has a built-in amp on it's onboard DAC, which made me wonder if that's what was causing the noise. More than likely however, I think it is signal noise, because i tried my 305s with the same cable at a friends house, both with his PC which had a built-in amp, as well as into his USB DAC/Amp combo. Both times the noise went virtually away on the LSR05s.
Because of this, i'm guessing i need a DAC or audio interface. Could you all be so kind as to direct me on a few points:
Thank you so much to anyone who can point me in the right direction.
So could I use something like this to get the sound out of my USB, and then connect to the JBLs with something like this?
Oops sorry, it was this TRS to 2x TS cable. It only outputs one speaker when I use it, don't know why. Major whining from the sound too, though the thing I did to fix it on my aux cable setup might work there too. Do you think it's a driver setting in Realtek or something causing it to output to just one speaker? Worth noting it's always the same of the TS jacks that gets the sound.
If I were to buy JBL LSR305's and wanted to use my chromecast audio with them, would this be what I needed to purchase to plug them in? I've always been kind of confused by how they're connected to aux outputs like a phone or something.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMP-159-3-5mm-Stereo-Breakout/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511656478&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=trs+to+3.5mm
Like this one?
Apologies, made a mistake with the type of cable.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMP-159-3-5mm-Stereo-Breakout/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511656478&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=trs+to+3.5mm
Unless you want to spend $150 on an audio interface, just get this.
You can connect them directly to your sound card using a $5 3.5mm to 1/4" cable.
They're all powered devices, so their amplification is built-in. I go straight from the line out of my PC motherboard to the subwoofer using a cable like this and then XLRs from the woofer to the two monitors. I read some stuff online about this not being the best way to set everything up (it'd be "better" if the signal was always balanced rather than just balanced from the woofer to the monitors), but it sounds fantastic to me and didn't require me to buy any more external equipment.
Some people have reported buzzing sounds when using jbl305s. I noticed a strange static sound only when playing overwatch. if i closed the application it went away. finally i fiddled with the sample rate and bit depth in the Windows Playback Devices menu and the static stopped happening.
Cheap solution is something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ are the cords different??
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=stereo+breakout+cable&amp;qid=1563295324&amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;sr=1-3
If you want, that's all you need. You can buy a 3.5 to dual XLR for a few dollars more if you wanna be fancy.
They are powered speakers you do not need an amp. Anything with a 3.5mm output will utilize a DAC, many people like to upgrade them though and get an external DAC. You can buy an external USB DAC to hook up to your computer but I wouldn't push you to buy one it's certainly not necessary. An amp would be a waste of money since they have internal amps.
Not many speakers have EQ adjustments on them. That's usually done somewhere else. I would just use any EQ software or honestly just right click the little sound icon and you can adjust the settings yourself.
Okay. Either the Xenyx 802 or the Q502USB will get what you need. You have the cable you need for mic to mixer already in your cart. For game audio and discord audio to the mixer, I'm guessing both are being output from head phone jacks, so you'll need a couple of in whatever length you need. And if you don't have headphones with a quarter inch plug on the end you'll need a 1/8 to 1/4 stereo adapter. Finally, for the Main mix out back to the PC, you'll either use another 3.5mm TRS to dual 1/4 inch TS cable going into the mic in on the sound blaster, or with the Q502USB, you can just go back digitally with a USB cable.
Example of TRS to dual TS cable: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
Example of 1/8 to 1/4 adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005E2Y0KK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518815857&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=headphone+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31wb7iS8VEL&amp;ref=plSrch
You can use a cable like this. http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_img_y
The sound will depend on the on board dac. It will sound OK. You can always upgrade to a dedicated sound card or dac later if you are not satisfied.
You need one of these adapters assuming you have the 3.5mm audio output on your phone https://i.imgur.com/TcFzArq.jpg and then you will have stereo sound.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMP-159-3-5mm-Stereo-Breakout/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484098174&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=Hosa+Stereo+1%2F8%22+TRS+to+Two+Mono+1%2F4%22+TS+Cable%2C+3+Foot%2C+CMP153
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6
Honestly I think your best bet is upgrading your interface and getting a 3.5mm to 1/4" stereo adapter cable. A scarlett 18i20 is $499 and you'll probably never need another interface; it has enough to easily record a full band live. You could just send the turntable line out to the line ins on the back (you'd probably need another $5 1/4" trs to dual ts cable), and plug in everything else as normal. Any of the focusrite interfaces has a knob for headphones and monitors, so switching there shouldn't be a problem even with the interface you have. You could get 6i6 or something smaller if you wanna save some money, though. Another nice thing about the interfaces that are higher in the series than the 2i2 is that they have built in midi interfaces on the back, which can be really helpful for keyboards/controllers and stuff. USB midi and a usb audio interface separately is asking for driver/latency issues.
I would caution you against a mixer, because while it works, it's more expensive and a small mixer really won't have many uses in the future should you decide to upgrade your home studio, while a bigger interface will last you forever.
Sounds like you need an audio interface with usb and line in input to work with the laptop and your cell phone. I would go with the interface for the computer. As the USB will send a cleaner signal vs the 3.5mm
Or get a cables like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_25?crid=2ZG6HGWDZ4CLF&keywords=audio+interface+with+line+in&qid=1555876216&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=audio+interface+with+lin%2Cmi%2C236&sr=1-25
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https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Splitter-Unbalanced-Breakout/dp/B07DMWZPML
Just get RCA to 3.5mm adapter cable.
You might need female instead of male on the RCA end if you need more length off the end of the factory cables.