Reddit reviews Hosa GPR-101 RCA to 1/4 inch TS Adaptors (2 pieces), Black

1/4" TS to rca adapters: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3S

$3, not the end of the world.

My title is "$100/speaker" not "$100" so people that get referred from here should know. Massdrop page also says "monitor" not "monitors"

I have never heard of "cinch cables", and a web search only turns up what are basically zipties, so I don't know what your friend is on about.

Bring an RCA-to-RCA cable, definitely, since you'll most likely be plugging your controller's RCA output into one of the RCA line inputs on the club's DJ mixer. But I'd also bring either an RCA-to-phono cable, or a pair of RCA-to-phono adapters, because sometimes you'll need to plug into a PA style mixer instead, which will use 1/4" phono jacks for its stereo line inputs.

I also carry an RCA-to-XLR cable - I don't need it very often, but it's nice to know that I'll always be able to plug in, no matter what kind of crazy situation I encounter.

I would try something like this, it's a simple rca to 1/4"TS adapter.

• 1. Don't bring any gear unless you are 1000000% ok with it being completely destroyed.
     
• 2. See #1
     
• 3. See #1
     
• 4. I use Traktor (app) on an iPad 2 (64GB) in this case, with packing tape covering all exposed holes.
     
• 5. I use this splitter for Traktor that plugs into the iPad to split the audio signal between my headphones and to the main audio board/rig whatever that art car/stage is using. This way I can get my next track ready while the current one is playing.
     
• 6. I then plug this 25' RCA to 1/8" cable into one of the outputs on the splitter, and run it to the main audio mixing board
     
• 7. I pack a pair of these RCA to 1/4" plug just in case the audio board/mixer, etc doesn't have RCA inputs.
     
• 8. Bring a sh!tty pair of decent headphones (see #1)
     
• 9. If all else fails, I've used my iPhone running Traktor in a plastic ziploc bag with an RCA -> 1/8" cable plugged into my headphone jack to keep a party rocking all day on an art car. The iPhone can sense your touch inputs through the plastic in a ziploc bag, keeping it relatively safe - but see #1 again.
     
• 10. just in case you missed it...
      
      formatting

Don't make this harder than it needs to be.

RCA - TS adapters (not TRS adapters) are sufficient to allow these inputs to accept a single-ended signal. And no, it's not improper to do so.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPR-101-Adaptors-Black-Pieces/dp/B000068O3S

I've set up numerous jenky make-it-work turntable-to-soundcard lines to sample so I'll try to give you a few options...

(1) Any decent turntable without a built in preamp (look at beginner turntable guide) and this could be new or used --> into a preamp (this is necessary for this setup) --> run RCA-to-1/4 lines into the back of the Apollo Twin (line 1 and line 2), this will keep your left and right channels separately. You need to make sure you can record into both at the same time. You could buy adaptors for your RCA line or a specific RCA-to-1/4 cable. Note: I'm giving you links to cheap ones.

• With this option you could probably buy a decent used turntable for about $100 and a decent preamp for $50-100.
  
  (2) Buy a turntable with a built in preamp and do the same set up without a dedicated preamp. So, it would go turntable with preamp on running RCA-to-1/4 cable straight into back of your soundcard. Best options for a new one would be the Audiotechnica LP120 which is about $300 or the Stanton T92 for about $250-300. I personally think the stanton is slightly better on its stats but not by much and the stanton doesn't come with a hardcover, which kind of sucks. However, the stock cartridge on the stanton (Stanton V500) is a DJ cartridge that can take more damage and you can stop it, start it, and back cue and not worry about damaging the stylus or your records. The stock cart of the LP120 (AT95E) is a much better listening cart but you cannot back cue anything or start or stop on the fly without damaging the stylus.
  
  (3) Buy a turntable with a USB connection and plug in straight into your computer or the USB port on your soundcard (Edit: just realized not all of the Apollo Twin versions have USB inputs, so this might not be feasible, unless you plug straight into your computer). You could pick up Audiotechnica LP120USB which is about $300 or the Stanton T92 for about $250-300. USB port on turntables do not give the best sound quality however and you would probably better to go with one of the other options.
  
  Overall, I think option 1 would be the cheapest route and be a good option if you eventually getting into vinyl as a medium for listening. Also, these three options are specially tailored to your setup and there are other ways to do this. The best quality for vinyl to digital is to have a nice soundcard on a desktop that has dedicated RCA inputs and then you don't have to use adaptors.

Or there's also these little guys.

You need this cable or RCA-RCA cable and this adapters. Scarlett input attenuation at line level.

Best way to do this is use your Magni 2 uber as a preamp. So connect RCA to TRS cables (or RCA cables with TRS adapter) from the Magni 2 preamp outs, to your JBL LSR305's

RCA to TRS example: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17

TRS adapter if you already have RCA to RCA cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-GPR101-Inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3S

I used those adapters for my JBL LSR305's because I already had an RCA cable laying around. You'll be able to control volume with your magni 2 volume knob

Edit: spelling

You need an amp to run between passive (non self-powered) speakers and the output source (controller). You didn't specify the speakers, but I would imagine they are passive since they have 1/4" TS connections... usually active speakers (self powered) have XLR inputs and sometimes additionally, have RCA and a mic input.

If, somehow, your speakers are active you'll just need this cord or this adapter, but I really would expect you need an amp. Having no idea what speakers you have, but knowing the next question will probably be what amp should you get, I'll just go ahead and put this here: Behringer Inuke. This is a budget amp, but it does a fairly good job. I have one running some subs and have zero complaints. If you end up needing more power, just look for the bigger versions.

once you go 1/4 inch, you never go back. here's an adapter for all you little guys.

Get a RCA to TS (1/4") cable like this one.

You can also use adapters like these to use with a regular RCA cable, but they are often problematic and the proper cable is useful enough on its own.

This would only work for one speaker.

These would be better.

The Cloudlifter would be a complete waste of money here and many people use them where they aren't needed.

The bad news here is that Behringer's classic mixers are just plain garbage. End of story. Good for seeing how high it will bounce when being thrown off the roof of a building though.

I would go so far as to say you shouldn't even look at mixers at all unless you're playing an instrument like a guitar in addition to using the mic. You mix where your sources are, so on a gaming PC you need to mix in software on the PC, not in some external box that you need to setup loopback on. The type of software mixer you're looking for is Voicemeeter.

Behringer's "HD" audio interfaces, however, are pretty decent on the cheap. I just wouldn't touch anything less than the $60 UMC202HD though.

At the end of the day, a 2-input/2-output USB audio interface like the Behringer UMC202HD is all you need. I wouldn't bother with an external hardware mixer at all. It's just not needed. If you want to spend a bit more on a nicer interface, Tascam, Roland, and Zoom are worth looking at. Just don't buy Focusrite Scarlett as their Windows 10 drivers are straight-up broken and won't be fixed any time soon.

Get a decent mic arm like the On Stage MBS5000, plug one end of the XLR cable into the SM58, then the other end into your audio interface, e.g. UMC202HD. Plug your speakers and headphone into the interface. Done. That's all you need. You don't even need a foam ball as a vocal dynamic like that SM58 has a built-in pop filter foam behind it's screw-on head. You can stop using your motherboard's onboard audio entirely too. Maybe do an isolation mic clip if you're feeling fancy.

Remember you need a mic arm as putting your mic on the desk is too far away from your mouth and the mic will pick up more keyboard, mouse, and room noise than it will of your voice.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWM5E8C

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZO60I

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURUBE

Some adapters you might need, maybe, depending on how your PC speakers are setup:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010D0HO0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3S

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O18

Ah, ok. I’ll look into that. As for an RCA to TRS adapter, do you think [this would work?](Hosa GPR-101 RCA to 1/4” TS Adaptors, Black (2 Pieces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o5LQDbSBP2JW5)

I seriously doubt this will work as you think it will work.

Your (presumed) though: If I get/make a cable, I can hook the speakers to the mixer and rejoice.

Reality: Unless the speakers are self-powered, you're going to need an amplifier of some form, so the connection will be Alesis -> Amplifier -> Speakers

It's simple enough to test. Buy a cheap guitar cable, cut one end off. In the cable will be two wires. Hook them up to the speaker, and see what (if anything) happens.

BTW, "Guitar Jack" = 1/4" TS (Tip/Sleeve)

Little amp that might work, just need the above adapters, and some RCA cabling

Here's one that I've been using for the last three years for a similar purpose, but it doesn't come with a power adapter so you need to also buy a universal power adapter to go with it.

It also has a few slight downsides that might bug you. First, you get independent volume knobs for each channel, so you have two volumes to change to adjust one stereo source, not one. Second, it uses 1/4" jacks, so you need adapters to plug in your electronics. Third, at least on mine the internal jacks didn't meet up perfectly with the 1/4" plugs when they were plugged all the way in. The weight of the wire would pull the tip of the plug away from the contact in the socket. I fixed that by putting the plug through a washer or piece of cardboard that stopped the plug from going in all the way. Has worked great ever since.

If I had a link to another similar mixer at similar price on hand I would recommend that instead. On the plus side, the Nady is built to be user-serviceable. There are probably better options that might be cheaper once you factor in the cost of power adapter. I spent a bunch of time shopping last time I needed one and found it surprisingly hard to get a simple, cheap, stereo, line-level mixer. Everything's either DJ equipment, made for microphones and not line level, or a huge crazy $400 mixer board with tons of channels like you would use for recording a band.

I'll look around a little bit longer, but here's what you're looking for in a mixer case I come up dry:

1. Has actual gain knobs, not just volume or level knobs. Note the bad Amazon reviews on this one, that it cuts the output volume too much. That's because the volume knobs only from zero to slightly-less-than-100%. Gain knobs go above 100%.
   
2. Is not a DJ-style "crossfade" mixer like this one. Note the slider on the panel... That means it's set up to crossfade between two different things, so when it's in the middle both things will be at half volume.
   
3. Is built for line level (keyboards, CD players etc.), not microphones or guitars. If it's 1/4" jacks or RCA jacks it's probably fine. If it has XLR jacks you probably won't be able to use those inputs. (But you can just turn them to zero volume and ignore them.)
   
4. (EDIT) Doesn't collapse channels to mono, like this asshole device does. (I thought it was a good alternative to the NADY, until I read the fine print.)

The other commenter (u/psychedellosaurus) did not show you the right cable. The inputs for the 2i2 are mono, you shouldn't just plug a stereo cable into it.

You would need to have something along the lines of this. Assuming that your turntable is like mine and has a built in rca that is male.

I bought a turntable that has USB and RCA, and I use the USB. It's a bit of a pain because FL doesn't want to record from it, so I record to audacity, and then save a .wav of the record.

I have a 2i2, im not sure is the other commenter understand your setup.

Also, on that note... does yours crackle when you turn the volume knob? Mine started doing it a few months/a year after I got it.

Depending on your playback device you may need adapters for the outputs on the back.

If your speakers have a (2x) cinch input, you need adapters like these. If they have a 3.5mm TRS plug, you'll need something like this.

If you have headphones that have a 3.5mm plug instead of 6.35mm, you'll need an adapter like this one.

You'll also need an XLR cable to connect your mic and possibly a pop filter for recording vocals. The AT2020 is often sold as a bundle with both.

Here is also a bundle with a boom arm (of questionable quality).

Hey I bought this. My headset plugs don't seem to fit. Whats the issue?

If you have a USB 2.0 capture card, any audio to desktop through HDMI will have a slight delay.. so that's probably not an option.

I literally had this exact same problem OP, and I am pleased to say that I've fixed it (albeit needing more equipment than I thought I would need).

You could run a 3.5mm audio cable from the Wii U headphone jack into your mixer, but that only works for the Wii U. If you ever wanted to stream another console, you might not be able to use the same method. That's why I use an HDMI audio extractor.

I have a Xenyx 802, and here's my setup:

HDMI Audio Extractor: Amazon

Cables going from HDMI audio extractor to mixer: Amazon

Adapters for RCA to 1/4": Amazon

From PC headphone jack to mixer: Amazon

Then I just use a 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter in the headphone port of the mixer and boom -- all the audio from both desktop AND console to one headset.

Disclaimer: There may very well be a better / more efficient way to do this.. I admit that I'm still a pretty big noob when it comes to audio equipment, but this was my holy grail for the longest time, and I finally found a way to do it :).

You could hook it up a couple of ways. The USB turntable can be hooked up with USB to the computer and it'll output the sound out of the Focusrite things audio outputs in the back. Or you can wire the turntable into the front inputs of the Focusrite box with some rca to 1/4th inch adapters. You shouldn't need to buy anything.

If you go USB you can use the front inputs for the portable devices with the same adapters. The Focusrite plugs on the front take either XLR or quarter inch. http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-GPR101-Inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3S/

Yeah thats definitely a form of ground loop interference. Most likely coming from your GPU leaking voltage to the common ground.

Yes that is the mixer i was talking about. The only change i would make is to run the phono pre-amp into the "Line in 2/3". You'll need some RCA to 1/4' TS adapters. That way you have level control over it.

Also, you will need some balanced 1/4" TRS cables to go from the mixer to the speakers.

Ah, I see. Would I need any adapters? Something like this I'm assuming.

this for the audioengines...http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=pd_sim_23_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Ah4d8l6SL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1NRXGJGP59RZFCHSQ6PH ...this for the JBLs...http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=1V9SBDW82NP47C1YBXZC ...as for connecting the sub...It would be easier if it had the speaker terminals that had an input too...but you can split the rca jacks with some y-adapters...for the JBLs you'll need these also...http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-GPR101-Inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449258390&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+to+trs

Yes, you would need an adapter like this and you would plug it into the "R and L/MONO" outputs.

If you don't care about getting stereo sound, you could just buy one of these

One last thing: would these be a suitable converter?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LrDrybT72YTDF

I'm pretty sure plugging it in like that on the back is wrong. You should be using one white and one red, and you have to use 3 and 4 to avoid feedback from the master output. I have the exact same interface and I have my 404 hooked up with no problems, but I use 3 and 4 on the back.

I'll try to explain my setup:

Output 3 and 4 from the 2i4 goes to line in on the SP404, obviously matching red and white on both ends.

Line out from the SP goes to the inputs on the front of the 2i4, you need RCA to TRS adapters (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPR-101-Adaptors-pieces-Black/dp/B000068O3S)

That's it for the cables really. You just have to make sure you're not hooking up to the 1-2 output or you'll get feedback, and I don't see how hooking up to the red plug of two different outputs would work as you're hooking it up to 2 and 4.

Then in the Ableton settings you enable input 1 and 2, and set your external effect plugin to send audio to 3/4 and receive audio from 1/2.

Also keep the switch on the front at 1/2.

And also the switches below the inputs on my 2i4 are set to line. Only saw your first picture so I had to edit as I saw the rest. :p

You know I bet I could use these and connect direct to my audio interface.

Thanks for the help! I appreciate it. Doesn't look like too many people just want to record audio. As far as the copyright, yeah it's a bit on the grey side of things, but it's for an art project and I'm not commercializing. I'd happily pay for the samples, but sadly that's an impossibility.

Yep, that will work. Although so will this.

Correct, standard RCA cable to connect everything. From what I'm reading on the Tapco's, they have a stereo RCA input. Turntable > ART DJ Pre II > monitors.

As LionsMouth pointed out below (and I stupidly missed) the Tannoys are active monitors as well. You could test out which pair you like best and go with those. I didn't find a manual in my quick google search, but from what I can see, the Tannoy's use a combo 1/4"-phone/XLR cable connection. If it is a 1/4" cable, you will need to find a pair of mono-RCA-to-mono-1/4" cable to connect from the DJ Pre II to the back of the Tannoys.

The other thing you will really, really want is some sort of line attenuator to control the volume. It looks like neither the Tannoy or Tapco have a volume control built into them. You could use the gain trim on the DJ Pre II, but that would be far less than ideal.

One other thing that would be very handy would be a simple AV switch box. This would allow you to connect a MP3 player or other audio source along with your turntable.

Outside of the turntable (not knocking you or it -- we all got to start somewhere) the other gear you have is really good quality stuff. Like I said the MX-2 is worth holding onto for the future if you get into this hobby. Otherwise, you could sell it for a decent penny.

Links for reference:

RCA to 1/4" adapter cable

RCA to 1/4" adapter

Line Level Attenuator

AV Switchbox

The RCA-to-1/4" cable or adapters can probably be found at any store that sells music equipment. Line level attenuator might need to be ordered. AV switchboxes are generally everywhere and should be at any big box or online retailer.

Get a cable that is 3.5mm stereo jack on one end and 2 RCA on the other. Something like this then get 2 adapters that are either RCA to 1/4" or RCA to XLR, doesn't matter which.

Use the green jack on the PC, which is the main L/R output.

For the same price as the M-Audio interface you're looking at, you could get the Yamaha Audiogram3, which features RCA in ports. I don't have any experience with this device, but I have used M-Audio interfaces in the past and probably would not recommend them.

As far as cables, I'd assume that both playback devices you're using have RCA ports. Unless you get an interface with RCA ports, just get some RCA to 1/4" adapters.

Thanks for the reply! As for the cables you were talking about, would these adaptors do?

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPR-101-Adaptors-pieces-Black/dp/B000068O3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540428909&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hosa+rca+to+1%2F4+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41d5Xo2YdQL&ref=plSrch

I would get these: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-GPR101-Inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406578907&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+rca+to+1+4

Then you can just use the RCA cable you probably already have. They are shit quality, but work fine if you aren't constantly unplugging them.

> And I connect that 1 cable to the interface then I take the other cable and connect it to the interface so it takes up two inputs in the back of the interface

Can you explain what you mean by this? I'm a bit confused.

[Here's a picture of how one channel could be connected] (https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/244316047258288128/611638771686834181/unknown.png) using [RCA splitters] (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-5-Pack-Plated-Adapter/dp/B0141KPCDY), [RCA>TS adapters] (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPR-101-Adaptors-Black-Pieces/dp/B000068O3S/), and normal male-male RCA cables. Similar adapters and splitters and such exist going the other direction (TS > RCA for the sub), so there's a lot of different ways you could do this, but I figured I'd give an example.

The JBL have 1/4" TS inputs. If you already have RCA cables you can just get RCA to 1/4" TS adapters (e.g. these). If you don't already have the RCA cables you could get RCA to 1/4" TS cables (e.g. two of these).

However, the volume control problem will be even worse with the JBLs because each speaker has a dial on the back—there's no master control. So the case for a preamp like the Schiit Sys is even stronger with the JBLs.

I fucked up, it should be 1/4 Tip/Sleeve adapters, not TRS. Sorry about that.

Two or 3 sets of these. Not sure if the non behringer mixer does channel 2 on the rca inputs, it looks to be the same but not sure. 3 sets you will definitely be golden. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPR-101-Adaptors-pieces-Black/dp/B000068O3S?th=1&psc=1

Two sets of rca to rca cables and one set of 3.5mm to rca cables.

What's your input source (PC, turntable, CD player, etc)? The D5s don't have an unbalanced (RCA) input, though you could use an RCA to 1/4" converter like this.

If your input source is a computer, you would be better off using a USB DAC or proper audio interface (with balanced outputs). Something like this or this.

The Vali 2 looks like a quality product, but it's a headphone amp and will not do much for you besides act as a volume control. The under-gained, small tube will add some (minimal) harmonic distortion, but it won't make the system sound "better."

Let me know what sources you intend to use and I can make some recommendations, if you like.

TAPE IN will not work, since that is a line-level input (high impedance). The channels will work with those RCA-to-1/4" mono adapters. See how those inputs are labelled BAL OR UNBAL. You will only need to adjust the GAIN and PAN on those channels. Use TAPE OUT to connect to your stereo amp.