Reddit reviews Howard Products BBC012 12 oz, Butcher Block Conditioner

No worries. Don't forget to pick up some wood conditioner for it, the wood will look better and it'll keep it from drying out. Howard's Butchers Block Conditioner is an affordable alternative to the stuff sold by Sticky Brick Labs https://www.amazon.ca/Howard-BBC012-Butcher-Conditioner-12-Ounce/dp/B001ESTA30/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_2/131-4904974-9310700?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001ESTA30&pd_rd_r=62e797c7-a2d1-11e9-87e6-bda8f79623bc&pd_rd_w=1Dd5h&pd_rd_wg=Dv5Rm&pf_rd_p=318fc841-c654-436b-9e98-a4e2694ba626&pf_rd_r=RA29M4P73EBJC41RNZWH&psc=1&refRID=RA29M4P73EBJC41RNZWH. Edit: Only put the conditioner on the outside, not in the air or vapour path at all.

Sometimes people think that with wood counters the whole counter is a big cutting board. Often that is not the case.

I have not done that with our wood counters.

The trouble spots are around the sink, points of regular water presence. By example I would not keep potted plants on the counter because the regular source of moisture just being present or potentially present on the wood.

What I used for all of the counters was Howard Products butcher block conditioner oil,

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-BBC012-Butcher-Conditioner-12-Ounce/dp/B001ESTA30?ref_=bl_dp_s_mw_2593720011

I think the first time, I put on like 3 coats and really let it absorb well. Crank the heat in the house so that the wood opens up and the oil is really liquid to absorb well. After that I applied the oil every 3-6 months or as needed.

I would go for it. They look great!

That's pretty common. Its probably ho or magnolia wood.

I soak mine in food-grade mineral oil for a bit (well not exactly soak but I cover it well). After that's had a few hours to sit I put on a bit of butcher block conditioner, which is just mineral oil and beeswax, and then buff that off.

The first step is probably overkill and just the mineral oil/beeswax stuff should be enough. This is it by the way

Here is a short write up, I will try to be as coherent as possible [7]:

Take various stages of 3M automotive sandpaper. I started by sanding down everything with a 400 grit sandpaper. The wood looked brand in a matter of seconds. After I sanded everything again with 800 grit, then followed by 1000, and finally 2000 grit sandpaper. 2000 grit will get the sandpaper down to a smooth, shiny finish almost like hard plastic. Finish up with a few hours and layers of butcher block wood oils and your MFLB feels as smooth as a billiard ball and feels GREAT when hitting native mode.

As far as sanding off your serial number and the engraved writing keep in mind the higher the grit of the sandpaper the less it takes off.

400 grit - The only grit that will sand off the letters if you applied generously would be the 400 grit sandpaper. Go the easiest on the 400, just to get the color of the fresh wood. Keep your sandpaper and wood free of dust when switching to a different grit of sandpaper.

800 grit - When you go to 800 look at the wood at an angle to a source of light and you can see where the wood can vary in roughness. Try to keep a universal texture on all your wood.

1000 grit - When going to 1000 you can put more weight into the wood when you sand, it by now you can see that the only "wood dust" that comes off is VERY fine. Keep sanding and sanding until all your wood feels smooth and doesn't show any flaws in reflected light.

2000 grit - Once again clean off any dust off the wood with a dry cloth. With 2000 grit you want to put even more pressure on the wood when you sand. At first it will feel like you aren't doing much, but then you start to notice the sandpaper starts to stick to the wood and slide across as if you are forcibly rubbing your index finger on the surface of glass. Take a look at your wood in the reflection of light. It should be really shiny like hard plastic. This is the result we have been working so hard for. Keep cleaning off the wood and resanding until the entire surface is shiny and smooth

Butcher Block Oils - I used Howard Butcher Block conditioner followed by Howard Butcher Block oil. The bottles come with directions on how to apply.

You don't need a pool of oil, especially if doing it regularly. Enough to darken the color of the board evenly as you spread it around with a paper towel is sufficient.

However isn't it super annoying to have a concave board? Like isn't there a gap where the knife doesn't touch? (maybe it isn't that concave).

I'm not sure what kind of power tools you have available but, if it were me, I'd sand it flat and then recondition (with mineral oil). You might have to apply a couple times over the course of a few days but you still don't need pools of oil. I have butcher block countertops (and a fussy wife) and I occasionally have to bust out an orbital sander to get the stains off. After you sand the wood it looks a little lighter in color. Once you apply mineral oil, it blends back in. Maybe it looks a little dry the next day and needs another coat. That's really all there is to it. Maybe if you want it smooth and shiny you sand with some higher grit (300+) paper after the rough sanding. I've heard it said that oil "raises the grain" so maybe you do the higher grit the next day or something if you're really worrying about it.

You could also consider using something with a little wax in it like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ESTA30/

And just for the hell of it, here's a lifetime supply of mineral oil:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LB7MC4M/

I made one of these recently and used butcher block conditioner (they have it at pretty much any hardware store). A mix of mineral oil and some food-safe wax so it has a nice smooth feel while being safe for the baby to nom on. One bottle is probably enough for like 200 rattles.

Let a coat of mineral oil soak in for about half an hour then buffed it with this mineral oil/beeswax conditioner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ESTA30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just a general reminder to anyone that might see it in this thread. Wood cutting boards need to be oiled after x number of washes. A food grade mineral oil or a mineral oil/food grade wax combo works well. I use this butcher block conditioner . It also works great for wood knife handles, muddlers, etc.

There is a LOT of info in this sub on cutting board finishes / glue. A quick search should return what you're looking for. That being said, I'll give you what I use here:

Glue - Titebond III. It's water proof (not resistant).

Finish - A mixture of beeswax and mineral oil. It needs to be re-applied occasionally, but it's super easy for beginners. Stay away from salad bowl finishes until you've made a few boards and want to try something a little more durable.

Woods - Hard maple and walnut are the easiest, but anything tight grained will work. Stay away from open grain woods (oak, etc.).

I would not use poly. You're going to be putting knives into the damn thing and that's just going to scratch up the finish. Use food grade butcher's wax and it will bear the inevitable scratches with grace:

• http://www.amazon.com/Howard-BBC012-Butcher-Conditioner-12-Ounce/dp/B001ESTA30/ or
  
• http://www.amazon.com/John-Boos-Mystery-Butcher-ounces/dp/B00063QPYQ/

I've used this in the past: https://www.amazon.com/Howard-BBC012-Butcher-Conditioner-12-Ounce/dp/B001ESTA30/ref=pd_sim_229_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XN44B2ABP3BDZ5RV40S9

It's a mixture of mineral oil and wax. I've been really happy with it and they sell it all of the big home care stores.

Mix mineral oil and beeswax for the best results. You can use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Howard-BBC012-Butcher-Conditioner-12-Ounce/dp/B001ESTA30/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mineral+oil+beeswax&qid=1567175615&s=gateway&sr=8-3

... or just mix it yourself.

Carnuba wax also looks really good - you can mix Carnuba with mineral oil and beesewax to get the big daddy of finishes.

I really sorta kinda need this (ok, it's a first world kind of need) condition for my wood cutting board. It has been getting really bad, and I would hate for it to be ruined because I did not condition it. Right now, it's not even being used in order to preserve it until we can get some more conditioner. Thanks so much for the contest. Hope you're having a great time in your photoshop course- that sounds like fun!

Why not try cleaning it up yourself? Get some fine grade steel wool and rub the active rust/corrosion off then use some metal polish and a bag o' rags to clean it up until it's shiny enough to suit you. I can't quite tell what the scales are, maybe ebony wood? I kinda doubt it's black horn... If it's ebony wood try treating it with some butcher block wax. Once you get the razor cleaned up then yes you should send it off for a professional honing and Brad does a top notch job.

Unfortunately what you have a is faux frameback razor and it's not something I would have recommended that a newbie start with because the blade tends to be lightweight but also very stiff so you need to use a very light touch when shaving. Now that's not to say that framebacks are bad razors; you just have to get a sharp but smooth edge on the blade. I have a few including a Wostenholm Doubly Carbonized IXL which is just the bee's knees.

I don't need double talk, I need

I NEED THIS TO BE MORE ORGANIZED.

/u/IDFKWHEREGILLIGANIS NEEDS THIS BECAUSE SHE JUST DOES.

Mineral oil (food grade)

P.S. Your scraper really isn't sharp enough to score bread. I just use a single edge razor blades (buy them at the local Drug store for cheap) or you can get a Lame.

Relax, things are way better than you fear. Firstly, most finishes are safe once they are cured. As another poster noted, the simplest and most clearly safe choice is what they put on cutting boards, e.g.

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-BBC012-Butcher-Conditioner-12-Ounce/dp/B001ESTA30/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=howard%27s+butcher+block&qid=1565920493&s=gateway&sr=8-13

For paint, there are lots of paints that are non-toxic and are made for kids. Safe as in lick the brush clean - safe. If the child chews off some flakes, that's even less of a dose than swallowing it wet.

I used Howard BBC012 Butcher Block Conditioner, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ESTA30/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001ESTA30&linkCode=as2&tag=diypete2-20&linkId=HUOWZ5JZSODQIFOU

I think its the lighting

I tried poly on my butcher block too, it gets ugly in a hurry! I ended up sanding mine off. Bees wax and mineral oil once a month works really well for us.

There's a few good videos to watch on YouTube. Here is a one I found useful

There's multiple tools that you can use, but I've found these two to be indispensable for the job.

Carving knife

Gouge

I also used a spokeshave and a hook knife. I didn't find the hook knife to be all that useful though. Another way to shape the outside of the spoon is with a belt/disc sander. I found that to be a quick, although very messy, way to get the rough shape I wanted. Then I'd clean it up with the spokeshave and knife. Sand it up to 400 or more then finish with a food safe product like howards butcher block conditioner

I like to use Howard on my cutting boards

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-BBC012-Butcher-Conditioner-12-Ounce/dp/B001ESTA30

This stuff

I was going to use this one. Maybe you're right about poly being a much better choice. I have heard great things about arm-r-seal. would it be okay to use on oak though? I mean, would I need to use wood filler or anything? I bought this counterop from IKEA.

Thanks so much for helping me out :)

Wife and I use this on our butcher block and cutting boards. https://www.amazon.com/Howard-BBC012-Butcher-Conditioner-12-Ounce/dp/B001ESTA30

What wood are you using? If its a hardwood like maple or the other common woods for cutting boards, then it shouldn't need to be strengthened at all, just oiled

And while I have never made a cutting board, I have a friend that does and he uses that Howard butcher block oil you linked or This Stuff, I'm not sure which (same company). Apply like any oil stain. It's food safe once it cures, and will prevent some of the wood absorbing liquid (I wouldn't use it to cut meat on).

You need to use a specific butcher block oil/conditioner to ensure you are treating t with something good safe. Howard BBC012 Butcher Block Conditioner, 12-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ESTA30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D0ojDbY5KFKHZ

Or just buy it here: https://www.amazon.com/Howard-BBC012-Butcher-Conditioner-12-Ounce/dp/B001ESTA30