Reddit reviews Howard Products FW0016 Wood Polish & Conditioner, 16 oz, Orange, 16 Fl Oz

This shit is gold and the wax keeps the oil from drying as quick.
I'm a custom woodworker and use it for the final finish on all my pieces. https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Products-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner/dp/B001BKQYGW/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/139-2420302-7651718?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001BKQYGW&pd_rd_r=4b6eb859-284e-4c12-a92c-5c74d7279d25&pd_rd_w=5DRe3&pd_rd_wg=S2ZuL&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=8ATV98GG26X3VRJVKXVW&psc=1&refRID=8ATV98GG26X3VRJVKXVW

It should be okay. Mice can carry some pretty scary diseases so it's better to err on the side killing it all. I don't think the wood should be damaged by bleach but if it looks dry afterwards, I really like this stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/Howard-Products-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner/dp/B001BKQYGW/

Great choice, can't go wrong. You got the cooler right?

If you got the unfinished version hit me up if you want help finishing it. It's really super easy to do yourself so the way I see it why not save $50? I see no reason at all.

edit: Ok guys Here is a guide to finishing the Firewood 4

Here is the OG post, if you wanna see the comments.

However that guy wasted his money so:

Here is the only thing you need to buy to finish it. You can use just any rag you have lying around and super fine sand paper can be bought anywhere. FW4 even unfinished doesn't really NEED to be sanded further though, that's totally at user discretion. However if you are paranoid (completely without scientific justification) like the OP of that thread is, then here is tongue oil, which is what the creator of the Firewood uses to finish them..

Then, if you're just the hands on type, or really wanna customize or something, You can always make your own wood polish and wax.

Short, simplified instruction set.

1. Sand unit with 400 grit or finer sandpaper according to the direction of the wood grain.
   
   
2. Clean the unit off thoroughly, ensure no dust or particulate in on the surface of any kind.
   
   
3. Moisten steel wool with Wax/Oil, rub into wood WITH the grain.
   
   
4. Warning: DO NOT get into vapor path, or on button.
   
   
5. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes, ACT before the wax gets sticky. Wipe off wax with rag in the OPPOSITE direction of the grain. So, the opposite direction you put it on in.
   
   
6. Allow to fully dry, wait overnight to be super safe.
   
   
7. Repeat steps 3,5 and 6 in order until desired result is achieved. 3 Coats should look great, but 4 or 5 will add durability.
   
   NOTE: After the first coat you can apply the wax with a rag if desired, or ultra fine sand paper. If you use a rag it should be a terry cloth or something else that won't leave behind lint.

You are correct!

Just used an Ikea Table Top + Ikea Tv Unit + 3M Poster Strips = My coffee table. The glass for the tv unit is sitting in my HVAC closet and overall it took maybe 30 minutes to put together after I unboxed it. The table has been coated with Wood Polish. I was very happy with the finished product. It is heavy as hell btw.

I use this stuff for all of my wood.

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B001BKQYGW

I don't know what it is, but based on your bottle description it's not an oil based wood finish or a furniture wax that is in a petrolium based solvent like Briwax (since oil based solvents come in metal containers) so I'd be looking for a wax or polish similar to Howards or one of the other "natural" lemon / citrus / beeswax based polishes.

Sure thing! Heads up, it's bare wood. I recommend to coat it with something or wax a couple times a year.

That’s beautiful. You may want to consider using some of this on it to make it look really nice.

Looks really sharp!

For burnishing, I've gotten lazy and bought a dremel attachment and I think the big slot on here should fit a 3/8" slab of leather?

I use a mix of Bees Wax and Gum Trag and then run over the edges, back and forth a few times to moosh the fibers together and smooth the edge.

As others have said though - anything that can provide a little bit of friction will work. It's easier if you wet the edge with something, and I think water will even work in a pinch.

Linked product note: I'm not shilling for amazon, or any specific product - just linking items that I've bought as examples :)

Congrats on the leatherworking! I'm almost done with my last 7/8oz side. I didn't think it'd be this fun :)

A combination of

http://www.amazon.com/Howards-Orange-Oil-Polish-16oz/dp/B0002YSXPS

and

http://www.amazon.com/Howard-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B001BKQYGW

should keep wood conditioned and looking nice.

Olde English is good for scratches too.

BTW, if you're vacuuming the table, make sure you aren't using a spinning brush in the vacuum as it can damage the cloth.

I use a large-surface lint roller to clean the cloth on my table and it works well.

Thank you so much pal.

At 0.47 sec it is showing the grits I used 120 320 400 2000 7000 grit.

I use rubbing alcohol but anything with high enuff alcohol is fine.

Oh shoot sorry about that my phone ran out of space I'll have to show you guys that and how to do the salt method. The wax I use > https://www.amazon.com/Howard-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B001BKQYGW


If there is anything you'd like to see or know ask me and I'll try to make a video about it or tell you how to do it.

Thank you so much pal will do! 😊👍🏻

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B001BKQYGW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541350033&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=feednwax&dpPl=1&dpID=41JqQ5cDN5L&ref=plSrch

I originally picked up the file itself from a flea market for a dollar. It was rusty as hell, and the old handle was really worn/weak. I cut off the old handle with my band saw, and cleaned up the file by soaking it in a de-rusting solvent. That removed a lot of the rust, but it was still dirty. So I flattened out a piece of copper piping, and scraped it going with the direction of the teeth. Since copper is softer than steel, it takes the shape of the grooves in the file, and removes everything in-between the teeth. I turned the handle on my lathe from a dry piece of white oak firewood and the copper came from the same piping that I used to make the file cleaner/scraper out of. I finished it with Feed-N-Wax (which you can find here) and some buffing. Overall it was a really fun project, and I plan on doing more things like this moving forward.

Is there anything you recommend for the restain and refinish? Could i just use this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BKQYGW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1) after I sand? also would cleaning it with a clorox wipe first mess it up?

Can't say from experience, this is the only bottle I own and have used. Seems to work fine, got good reviews, but I haven't used enough types to compare one to the other. The one I linked is on the cheaper side of things, but I wouldn't assume just because a furniture wax is more expensive it's better. IT looks like there are a whole bunch of "designer" waxes out there. Also, it's just a workbench, I'd get the cheapest wax I could find with decent reviews. Which, based on a quick look at Amazon, might be that one.

Looks fantastic!!! Try Howard's feed n wax for the protective coat. No nasty chemicals and make everything look great! I restored an old 1930s vanity with it and it looks brand new. It penetrates deep and conditions the wood as well as protecting and polishing. Smells great! It's on amazon

restored 30/40s art deco waterfall vanity

Okay.

In the most loving way saying this. Please clean your room :p ..

Next. Game table: place against the foot of your bed. Like parallel to your bed.

As far as your tv goes. What is being stored underneath it? are you allowed to drill holes in your room/do you feel comfortable doing so?

If so buy a tv mount from amazon for $20. If not please get a stand like this TV stand from Walmart . If it’s not in your budget, buy some wood oil and go to a thrift store and get a new stand.

Also: get some storage in your life

Frame your photos too. If you love your posters, that’s fine, I get it. Frame them. ASAP. It makes them look so much better and adult like.

This is the wood wax I used:

http://www.amazon.com/Howard-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B001BKQYGW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377935506&sr=8-1&keywords=table+wax

Just follow the instructions on the bottle.

One note is that my table is exposed to a lot of light from a nearby window. This helps "tan" the table and gives it that textured look. Took maybe 1-2 weeks to get to that look.

I've had similar issues with an old oak table. I used this stuff on a towel and went over the whole table. It slightly darkens the color of the whole table but it also does real well at covering blemishes.

Howard FW0016 Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish and Conditioner, Beeswax & Orange Oil, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BKQYGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bG8Yzb0GDXWDM

Howard Products FW0016 Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish and Conditioner, Beeswax &, 16 oz, orange, 16 Fl Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BKQYGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7lT0DbCBGF871

Used this Feed-N-Wax on a table I received from my parents. It was disgusting and my wife and I hid the top from view with table clothes for a while. Bought this on a whim and years of rings and marks on it were taken off on a single wipe.

> am I good using wet wipes or something similar

NO. Definitely dont do that. What would be good for a rosewood fretboard is to use naphtha/lighter fluid to clean the fretboard using a clean rag. And then condition the fretboard with something like Howard's Feed & Wax or other wood conditioners. Many people also like to use linseed oil. Let it sit for a minute or two and then make sure to wipe away any excess oil! Thats very important.

>The frets themselves feel a bit rough on the edges, is there some oil I can apply to make things smoother?

That you would need to take to a technician to have the edges smoothed out. It's a common issue and should be an easy fix. If you do bring the guitar to a technician for a setup they would also clean it so you might be better off taking it for a setup before you do anything else.

>Also for the pickups, they're covered but rusty ...

With the pickups I would probably just use a slightly damp cloth and try to clean it as best as possible. I'm sure theres a cleaner or polish for the pickups out there somewhere but I never really felt the need to use it. It might be better to just buy new pickup covers, especially if you're saying they are rusty.

I have the same issue, and I'm getting better but need to be more diligent about oiling after each use. I use Camellia Oil

If I know I won't be using it for awhile I'll go as far as adding Howard Wood Polish on it.

I still find myself refinishing surfaces on the tools if they've gone without use for 2-3 months.

Howard also makes a feed n wax is the best wood treatment I have found. Just performs miracles on dry wood. http://www.amazon.com/Howard-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B001BKQYGW

I use straight extra virgin olive oil for the quick clean and shine. When I have it, I use howards feed n wax http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BKQYGW/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_0Fcvtb0RJFJED and if it's just really needing a shine, I take it to the buffing wheel with some carnauba wax.

Floor and Decor. It came unfinished but didn't need to be sanded. I didn't stain it.

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B001BKQYGW

I made 3 passes with this using a thick rag. Gave it that nice darker tone and conditions it.

Try this before sanding. I used it on my veneer mid-century bedroom set and it took out the water stains and made it look almost new.

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B001BKQYGW

You just need this:

It Works