Reddit reviews Inkbird Digital Temperature Probe Controller Thermostat Timer AC 110V 1200W Only Heating Plug Time Switch Reptile Breeding Heater Planting Greenhouse No Cooling Control
We found 18 Reddit comments about Inkbird Digital Temperature Probe Controller Thermostat Timer AC 110V 1200W Only Heating Plug Time Switch Reptile Breeding Heater Planting Greenhouse No Cooling Control. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
NO COOLING CONTROL.There is only heating relay. It can be widely use in over-heat protection and automatic temperature control system of all sorts of electrical equipment for aquarium, pets breeding, hatching, fungus fermenting, and seed germination accelerating, etc. Only one relay and it extends two plugs which both are heating plugs, NO cooling plug.It can be set to two different temperatures with its function of dual time cycle setting during 24 hours according to the day and night, which can more suitable for the physiological needs of animals and plants.This plug and play product is designed with dual LCD display, and offers the optional display of Centigrade or Fahrenheit, which makes it more humanized temperature control. With large power output 1,200W, it's suitable for most applications.The temperature can be controlled more accurately with its function of temperature calibration and temperature hysteresis.There is only heating relay. It can be widely use in over-heat protection and automatic temperature control system of all sorts of electrical equipment for aquarium, pets breeding, hatching, fungus fermenting, and seed germination accelerating, etc.
It looks like a thermal burn to me, if it's also scale rot, the care instructions would be the same. But if you are not regulating your heat sources, it's probably a burn.
Inkbird makes some affordable thermostats with a few extra safety features. I would start off by making sure every heat source (heating pads, lamps) are hooked up to one. If you have extra money and want a ton of safety features, go with something by Spyder Robotics - their Herpstat line is the best of the best and they are what I use. I know places like PetCo / etc don't say you need a thermostat, but they are absolutely a must-have. Even the most high end heat pads that swear they don't go over X degrees can and will fail and will get hot enough to burn a pet.
Make sure humidity is above 60% at all times. If you are using an enclosure with wire mesh top, cover most of it in saran wrap or foil, this should keep the humidity in. Even after your snake gets better, keep humidity at this level.
Switch to unprinted newspaper or undyed paper towels for substrate for now. Something easily cleanable and sterile. Change it often. Change water and wash bowl daily. Going for a sterile environment while she heals. If you haven't done a deep clean, get some F10 SC and do a deep clean of her enclosure and everything in it. This stuff looks SUPER SCARY, but it's ok! I put 1 ounce in an empty spray bottle and then fill the rest of the spray bottle with water, so it's super diluted. Once diluted, it can be sprayed on any of her decor and be left to dry and still be safe for her.
It goes without saying, but also follow any medication and care directions the vet gives!
Also - there's a lot of info in here that you might not have known before, and it's really understandable. There's a lot of incomplete, inaccurate, and out of date care sheets out there for ball pythons, and even after doing a ton of research, you still could have missed something. But you've figured it out now, and are taking appropriate steps to make her better which is a ton better than a lot of other pet owners. I hope your girl makes a full recovery and you have many more years with her. Please keep us updated!
I would either stop feeding (she probably wouldn't take it anyways) for now, or go down a prey size until she is better.
a thermostat is a device that regulates the power of another device, such as a heat lamp, in order to control the temperature. a thermometer measures temperature, nothing else.
i'm seeing a ton of red flags here, so i'm going to post my BP info dump. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
good effort, but don't get that one, get this one. it's cheaper, by the same company, and the probe is designed for aquariums:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Inkbird+Digital+Temperature+Controller+Thermostat&qid=1554760604&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-3-catcorr
Just get an inkbird and turn the freezer down to the coldest setting possible. I attach the temperature probe to the side of my fermenter with some type of insulation. There is a couple options for warming as well if you do some light googling.
I am using one of these personally with a pair of Eheim heaters:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/
Did you watch the discussion video?
The wax in the measuring cup was barely liquid, it was quite manageable. I do agree that it would be nicer to have a melt pot and ladle the wax out from there. I've been eyeing this and this.
Yeah, wax does make a mess. I usually have a set of sheets set aside for wax play. I have been impressed with the beeswax as it's more solid when it dries and It was easy to clean up.
Soy wax is the absolute easiest as it washes out of most things.
Hi! A little late to the party, but something else to keep in mind that I did not see mentioned is that you will definitely want a thermostat (not just a thermometer) to regulate the heat from your heat pad and/or Ceramic Heating Element. You will probably want one for each heat element, although CHEs can be controlled with dimmer switches as well I believe.
A thermostat lets you regulate the output of a heat pad or CHE. This is important because without regulation, it is possible for either of them to overheat beyond typical heating abilities. This could lead to extreme temperatures in your tank that could burn the snake or even cause neurological damage if it's hot enough.
I'm taking my list of suggestions from other users who post around snek subreddits as I am not yet a snek owner myself :(.
Cheap options are Jump Start thermostats, although they do not have safety features that will shut down the heating element if the thermostat fails. Another option that's in the same price range but a bit safer is an Inkbird thermostat. If you wanna splurge and get a very high quality thermostat for your little buddy, you can go for a Spyder Robotics thermostat.
Also, not necessarily required but useful and fun: an Infrared Thermometer
Fermentation temp will be higher than ambient, so 65-72 ambient could be pushing you out of optimal for some yeasts, though you could be fine.
I bought a chest freezer on sale and an inkbird temp controller and this works well for me and would fit in your budget. Even more so if you’re willing to find a Craigslist freezer. My (7 cu ft?) freezer can squeeze in two PET carboys if needed, though I currently just do 5 gal batches.
This is a very common mistake, but it can have very deadly consequences if not changed.
Get a [thermostat](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5396573/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B015FKG4CC&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107334619&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14493505548356397280&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018821&hvtargid=pla-326308171578 (I linked the one I have, it's not too expensive and it works great) as soon as possible, otherwise you risk burning your snake very badly, and the vet bills caused by that would be much more expensive than the thermostat, not to mention the emotional distress.
You need a thermostat. Place the probe between the map and the bottom of the tank. All below the tank. Inexpensive thermostats:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/
https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/
You can use either an overhead heat source like a ceramic heat emitter (they put off heat and no light) or an under tank source like an undertank heat pad. Any kind of source needs to be on a thermostat (such as this one) so it doesn't get too hot. IIRC, cali kings need a hotspot of around 85F.
It does sound like he's trying to shed. You may need to bring the humidity up a bit for him. Misting a couple of times a day with a hand mister might help him out (distilled or reverse osmosis water will prevent water spots on glass). Another option is to make a humid hide. Some kind of container that is completely sealed except for one entrance, with some damp sphagnum moss inside.
You can also provide him a deep water dish...big enough for him to lay in. My Florida kingsnake likes to lay in his water dish from time to time, but they like a bit more humidity in general compared to calis.
Haven't grown my koji yet because I'm on vacation, but here's what I purchased and it all works:
​
- Humidistat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ND7N8L/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Perforated pan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E95D6H0/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Pan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VZ6Y4O/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Humidistat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J1E5LWM/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Thermostat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015FKG4CC/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Heating pad (I fold it in half): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7U259C/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Styrofoam container: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NO6F8E/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o05\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, I suppose that would work. All you would need then is just a single stage temp controller such as this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5149652
You need this device and a heater. It can be used to cool also. It has 2 outlets for each. Set it and forget it. Other redditors told me about it and it's a blessing. Inkbird
looks good. if your interested in exploring this type of cooking more but don't want to spring for an anova or other sousvide cooker. use the crockpot method. more precise. and can do longer cooks without losing heat.
basically you hook this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5097413/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B015FKG4CC&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107334619&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12722699865548230849&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017523&hvtargid=pla-326308171578
inline with your crockpot. then put the temp probe in the water. bring water up to temp with high once its at temp though switch it to low or warm, otherwise the heater element gets too much momentum during heat cycles and overshoots the temperature. this is what I use currently. i've done 48hr chuck roasts in it and works awesome.
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The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Ball Python Care Guides
Set-up Recommendations
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Yep. 9 months of the year, anyway. I hook one of these to the exhaust on each tent. Set it to kick on at 76, off at 73.
In the Summer, they run all the time during lights on (holding at ~80 degrees). Fall and Spring they run about half the time. I'm in a cold climate, so in my winters I have to make some adjustments (62 degree ambient).
During the cold months, I leave the thermostat in place, but run a small duct fan before the exhaust, which runs 24/7. It's enough to keep humidity from building up too much, which it would normally. Especially during the dark cycle. . .also, I run COBs and Strip fixtures, which generate very little heat, so Jan/Feb my tents might not hit 76 degrees, at all. Then I dial down, and grow everything between 62 degrees (dark) and 72 degrees (light).
TBH, I've only done one winter cycle with the COB/Strip LEDs, but the plants grown in the cold were better, quality-wise, then the summer plants. Although a bit less yield. . .all that is anecdotal, of course.
Oh, also, if you aren't already, consider how to exhaust back into your room as the cold weather comes. It'll keep humidity up, and you won't be exhausting warm air, only to pay to warm that air again.
Inkbird thermostat, I figured it would be good enough to use temporarily. I have my other snake on a Herpstat 2 and I intend to use it for the BP too, once she's done with quarantine.
I use this temp gun to check the temps under the hide, at least once a day.