Reddit Reddit reviews INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter

We found 57 Reddit comments about INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Multi Testers
Electrical Testers
Electrical Equipment
Tools & Home Improvement
INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter
UL certified product designed to safely and accurately troubleshoot a variety of automotive and household electrical problemsAuto-ranging scales eliminate the need to dial in the correct range when making electronic measurementsFeatures large digital display and color coded LED's for battery quick checkSingle-setting resistance function for AC and DC voltageProtective rubber corner guards for drop protection
Check price on Amazon

57 Reddit comments about INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter:

u/iBody · 9 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Id start with something line this starter set, a 3/8 breaker bar, 1/2 breaker bar, a Decent torque wrench, a plier set, vice grips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, screw driver set, a multimeter, decent scan tool, a jack, a funnell some drain pans from walmart, pb blaster, jack stands and make some wheel chocks. I'm sure I'm missing something pertinent, but remember you can rent some tools at your local parts store for free with a deposit so check to see what they rent before you buy. Also buy the remainder of the tools as you need them, its tough buying a lot of tools at once especially once you develop an affinity for some quality tools. A lot of the youtube guys have videos on what they use they most, but what I've listed should cover most maintenance tasks for your car.

u/oscill8 · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Not sure on /u/Steammonkey restock times, you can always pm him. There are other vendors who carry it (shouldn't be hard to find) as well.

[This is my multimeter] (http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA), I'm sure many are similarly laid out. (I had this before I started building; not sure if there's a "recommended" multimeter out there.) You can see the little "OHM" on the dial, set it there :) The battery voltage meter settings on the side are under "battery load test", you put the pos to the pos end of your batt, neg to neg :) There are some youtube videos specifically for multimeters + vaping that are helpful and will also show you where to position the leads for checking ohms, etc. On the vids, pay attention to how to check your meter's internal resistance, esp. with lower ohm builds. Be sure to buy a digital multimeter, not the analog kind w/ the bouncy arm for readouts.

I use Panasonic CGR18650s, AW 18490s, and MNKEs mainly for vaping so I don't know those (I had to search for mine, not printed on batts most of the time); it may be easier to search for the "c" rating of your battery so you can calculate its amp limits. (Again, sm's monkey u has a nice walkthru; it's not hard, just math.) Off the bat I'd say you likely don't want to use your "mystery" blue batt unless you can verify mfr/c rating... most batts packaged with kits are okay for vv/vw devices, not really super for mechs esp. when you're cloud chasing/low ohms. Is the ncr panny protected? (I don't know.) You don't want to use protected batts.

The 2c for safety fuse ... is a nice idea, but I think it has a 8 or 10 watt limit? (Don't quote me, I'm pulling numbers from you-know-where.) It'll be tripped pretty fast with low ohms... I don't think you can use them effectively with anything over 1.5 ohms or so. They make resettable ones (along w/ ones that are one time use, and that would stink), but again, they'll just stop your batt from firing when you want it to put out the watts you'll be pulling w/ lower ohms.

Honestly, I'd start high-ish and work your way down. Totally honest again, I'm kind of loving higher ohm (1.5-2.0) on my vv device (Provari), using one right now as I type. You can push much higher volts with the amplification of vv than you can reach with mechs, won't come near amp limits (you'll hit your device's amp limit before your battery's), and will still get a super vape. I have [a post on some higher (than sub) ohm builds + vv here] (http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/1g9c87/fun_with_contact_coils_higher_ohm_rbas_and/) to give you an idea of what I mean. Not saying don't go mech, I'm running 0.8 right now on my GV Sentinel and it's super, but ... I'm a ninny, "true" cloud chasing/sub 0.5 ohms freak me the f out ;) and some people have written off vv devices + RBAs when they really shouldn't. It may be harder to build/test on a PWM (pbusardo has a vid if you don't know about PWM) vv device, but firing is lovely once you get it on point :)

Happy reading, watching, building :)

u/sgtsnyder88 · 5 pointsr/Tools

I've had this one with me on projects for a few years now and it's worked pretty decent for the price. No complaints.

u/mcfarlie6996 · 3 pointsr/flashlight

Yeah, the i2 is designed to stop charging when it reaches 4.2V regardless if the battery is protect or unprotected. So either your charger is really messed up because 4.8V is dangerously high or there's some sort of mix-up with the reading.

>I just assumed given the age of the laptop battery that they'd have low charge and just threw them on the Nitecore i2 charger without testing voltage ahead of time.

You should never do this without knowing the voltage of the batteries beforehand. Here are some directions for the next time you want to do a laptop pull. Buy a multimeter, they're like $25 online. This is the one that I use for testing voltages.

u/DamnSevern · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I run a NIST-traceable calibrated Fluke 289 for work and I have one of these cheap Innova DMMs for home/car/vape projects and have been shocked with it's accuracy vs the Fluke. It's typically spot on, vs the much much more expensive Fluke...and you can pick one up for $20 usually.

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452972631&sr=8-1&keywords=innova+3320

u/SpaceIguana · 3 pointsr/mechanics

You should be fine with a Harbor Freight tool box. To be honest you can also buy tools and other things from there as well with out much worry. Just don't buy anything from them that will get heavy use under stress. Small tools like screw drivers, allen/hex keys, and grip tools like pliers aren't too bad from them. Just remember that they do deal in cheap tools so don't be surprised when some of them break. The below tools are suggestions and the links are examples for reference only.

u/darkharlequin · 3 pointsr/shittyrobots
u/DriedT · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I bought one of these in 2010 and another in 2017; the first one is still working fine. It's worked great for basic troubleshooting and measurements. I've used it for power consumption measuring and it seemed accurate enough. I've used them a lot, but none of it requires super accurate readings and I haven't had a single issue. If you buy one I can't guarantee the same experience, but they've been great for me.

Currently $18.80 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/

u/darkfires · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

The ohm/volt meter I have from MyVaporStore is nice. I'm sure you can find it cheaper but I like their customer service and reliability.

However, if you're wanting a good multimeter, this one from Amazon is cheaper than most ohm/volt meters.

u/bonkersthough · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Yeah. I use this one because it is a lot nicer than the even cheaper ones while still being pretty cheap. And its auto-ranging which is a big plus in my book. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/

And https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ERIFU6 those for drivers. I too was fed up with the cheap ones stripping. Again, not the best in the world but a lot better than the harbor freight special. They bite well and I haven't stripped anything with them yet.

u/WorkoutProblems · 2 pointsr/sportster

uhhhhhhhh If you say so...

You wouldn't know of good how to for dummies / videos that would go over these?

Also does the quality of mulitmeters really matter if it's just for motorcycle diagnoses? was thinking of getting this, but some of the reviews say it's not that great, what distinguishes a great multimeter from an okay one?

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426173691&sr=8-1&keywords=multimeter

u/lithiumdeuteride · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I've used this one for many years.

It lacks capacitor- and transistor-testing modes, but it was designed mainly for automotive use, and for the price, it's very good.

u/mercurysinking · 2 pointsr/ReverseEngineering

I have this one that I like kind of a lot. It's not super flashy or anything, but it's reasonably quick, it autoranges, it's fairly accurate, and it's worked for everything I've needed so far. And, it's only $17 so you don't have much to lose. It's well built (feels sturdy). Only complaint is that it makes noises twice when it's about to shut off.

u/QwertzHz · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I use this, but there are probably slightly better ones at that price point if you go looking. I like this one because it's auto-ranging, but the whole "battery test" thing seems like nonsense. Hasn't failed me yet in my light usage.

u/MangoMan6 · 2 pointsr/electricians

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1520974670&sr=8-6&keywords=multimeter

Its still on the cheaper end, but I've been using one extensively for 4 years and haven't had any issues besides the pos. probe becoming loose.

u/Danpaulcornell · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

Here are some useful links: Link; Link; Link. The Marantz cost about $58 using good quality replacements. I did a H/K 330B for $9.58. The Marantz 2285 I am working on cost about $90 for parts.

 

You will need a decent soldering iron; solder sucker; desoldering braid; lead solder; flux; and most importantly a multimeter. Here is another gear thread. Most of the manuals are available on Hifiengine. What you can't find there you can check the forums or Sams. Manuals on Fleabay should be an absolute last resort.

 

I would recommend going to a local thrift store and getting some practice junker units. It will take you some time to good at it and you certainly don't want to screw up your good unit. I still don't know anywhere near enough to do more than replace the parts and do basic troubleshooting. Fortunately for people like us, there are a lot of very helpful and knowledgeable persons on the forums who are always willing to lend a hand. Edit: Forgot about the Dim Bulb Tester.

u/nayt · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

If you don't have one, they're pretty cheap on Amazon: link
I use one of these on every electrical project on my jeep for sure

u/cb750k6 · 2 pointsr/HondaCB

A multimeter is a must have tool for someone running a vintage bike. They are relatively inexpensive. I can recommend this one as it has auto-ranging, but anyone you get will do.

Tutorial on multimeters and how they work.

How to test your motorcycle components.

u/caithnard · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

What are you looking to do with it and how much are you willing to spend?

I carry this guy with me on a day to day basis, does everything I need and was only $20

u/Shadow_Van · 2 pointsr/Coilporn

Yeah, working on it. I already knew the more well known bits, but the more I read the more subtleties there are. Any advice on what to look for in a multimeter? looking at this one

u/unrighteous_bison · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

this one seems ok.

I bought this one, it sucks but it was available for 1-hour delivery in my area

u/dogfunky · 1 pointr/AskElectronics
u/socraticd · 1 pointr/SolarDIY

I'd highly recommend getting a halfway decent multimeter if you don't have one. Given that you'll have more electrical work to do (and test) after initial diagnosis, you'll get a LOT of value out of a decent multimeter.

Something like this won't break the bank, and all the major functionality you will need to troubleshoot:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/

u/hobbykitjr · 1 pointr/ecobee

Do you have a multimeter?

Set it AC and check the R wire w/ the hot (red) lead and the C should be your negative/common (black) and the multimeter should show about 24V.

this is like an outlet where you have a positive and a neutral wire, these 2 wire are what the ecobee needs at minimum to turn on.

u/crypt_pwd · 1 pointr/tDCS

I have decided to buy the banana plugs and jacks from amazon can anyone here verify that I am going to buy the correct ones
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BKW2K2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A28128AMZ00PEQ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FYAQYO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&smid=A3S5JX6S4LCKI6
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044YPN0A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB

Also, will this meter be ok to measure the current?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I tried finding the fuse but I was unable, can anyone post a link to where you got yours. Finally, I was wondering if has anyone experimented with HD-TDCS

u/Account_for_mech_adv · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EVYGZA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It was the first thing that came up when I searched multimeter on Amazon. I can go get a different one at a store tomorrow and see if the results are the same. Are there any particular brands you reccommend?

u/Thandius · 1 pointr/Plumbing

an Amp clamp? do you mean an Amps setting on my multi meter?

I picked up a multi meter to help diagnose this problem (and other problems down the line) and have mostly been following instructions on use....

I got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am guessing It's the yellow setting on the bottom left DC10A

OR is this something on the water heter?

~Edit~
Corrected location of setting I described.

u/caseyrobinson2 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement
u/JayReddt · 1 pointr/electricians

Thanks for the kind words. And doesn't hurt giving important advice like shut the circuit and test it. I do know to do that but given the dangers involved... I don't mind hearing it!

Would this multimeter tool work as a voltage tester? I used it to test the current on parts of my dryer to see what needed to be replaced.

If not, any specific recommended voltage tester?

u/packmanta · 1 pointr/tDCS

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Readings corroborated the expected output down to the 2nd decimal place

u/Yosho2k · 1 pointr/headphones

Ok, so I just discovered my multimeter (which I haven't used in years) has a broken screen, so I'm waiting for a new one from amazon. I'm guessing what you're going to say is to test the TRS on the broken phone against the solder point. I'll contact you again when I have it on Sunday. In the meantime, I'm learning all I can about wire replacement and that awesome-looking Kramer method.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/erleichda_archiving · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

It does not look like the switches are the problem... I have not done a minidox, but from this build guide it looks like you might have soldered the jumpers for the left and right side, SJ1 and SJ2 wrong. Your photo is too blurry to tell for sure but it looks like all three pads are soldered together? This is how it should look. Also, do you have a multimeter to test your reset switch and the diode orientation? Did you take any shots of your diode side before you soldered the switches and switch plate on?

Take a look at SJ1 & SJ2 and see if you can clean that up and test that they are jumpered correctly and lets go from there.

I am far from perfect, but here is how I solder my switches and components... Contra, and close up... Clean and Smooth :) This is a good shot of the PM, switches and diodes from my Gherkin See how the solder curves up the sides of the switch? Like cones and not globs or balls.

It is a dance... apply iron to hole and component, add the solder, remove solder then remove the iron in just the right time to not get a cold solder and not too long to warp the switch so it either doesn't work on give double presses and then it has to be removed and replaced.

The solder will flow to the heat... it like heat... I try to keep most of the contact with the pcb and less to the switch cause then the solder flows it will add heat to the switch... hope that makes sense. Once you get the groove, it feels so good.

Hope you can get your minidox working. looks like a cool board!

u/iamhelltothee · 1 pointr/diypedals

Thanks, this was really helpful! Since with this blog I finally better understood the process of building pedals, I’ve made up my mind about getting into this and learning as much as possible. It’s a great blog.

I do have a follow up question thou. I’m now making a list of tools I’ll need to get for the job, I already have a few but I’m missing a multimeter. Would [this one](Innova 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A3m-AbTVDFTA0) be good enough?

u/Robathome · 1 pointr/aquaponics

You'd be surprised a) how easy it is to use Arduino, and b) how helpful the online community is. The nice thing about Arduino is that the complexity remains the same, regardless of how many sensors you add, provided you have enough expansion breakout board.

For a first step, I would buy a starter kit and a cheap soldering iron and a half-decent multimeter and just start making little projects, like light sensors and temperature sensors and making those projects both wireless and online.

After that, it's just a matter of interfacing the larger, higher-voltage components (like pumps and valves) with the lower-voltage Arduino. This is easily accomplished with a relay, which is also useful for electrical isolation between the two subsystems.

Start small. I would recommend making an Arduino into a timer, and then using the timer to control a pump. Then add an online API that allows you to adjust the on/off time of the pump. Then add water level sensors, then temperature sensors, etc.

Also, make sure you prototype everything on a small scale first, like the guy in the video was doing on his desk. It will save you a lot of money if you mess anything up.

Once you develop the skills necessary to build your smart-system, I cannot stress how important a good, detailed electrical diagram is. It doesn't matter if it's professional-quality, or done with pencil and a ruler. It will save you so much time.

u/ephekt · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have this one, but you don't need to spend more than $20 on one. Make sure you take the inherant resistence in your leads into account when you test your RDA.

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420433664&sr=8-4&keywords=volt+ohm+meter

u/apanthropy · 1 pointr/CarAV

Nothing wrong with those components... how about a pair of these guys and one of these so they don't meet the same fate..

u/throwaway_for_keeps · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

If you can afford a $300 3D printer, you can afford a $20 multimeter.

u/Heath24Green · 1 pointr/Fixxit

You can use nay 12v battery you'd like to that can supply the cca (cold cranking amps) to the motor to get it started, I have a designated large car battery to do this.

I wouls strongly suggest that you invest in a multimeter of some sort. I do not own the one linked but based on the reviews it can't be that bad for the price. and see what the voltage of the battery is, if it is above 11v I would consider the battery to be salvageable and try to recharge it. if not, yes I would get a new battery. Just know that while you are troubleshooting the bike that you should have a way to charge the battery. I used to just hook up leads from my car battery to my bike to do the testing; relying on the alternator of the ca to get the battery charged as I drove it.

Yes, a good place to start would be the battery, next I would test for spark: take the spark plug cap off, unbolt the plug, put the cap backon and ground the plug to the engine by holding threads up to the engine case (bare metal). and then try turning on the bike looking for small spark jumping at the tip. That should be good if he said it was running sporadically. then, again I would assume the carb is the main problem.

u/irreligiosity · 1 pointr/CarAV

Your post needs a little clarification. When you say voltmeter people are thinking about a digital multimeter. Since you mentioned it has a switched connection I'm assuming you're talking about a permanent fixture in your car that displays your battery's voltage?

26 gauge wire is very small - you would solder it to another wire generally. Strip back about 1/4" of insulation on the wire your connecting to and strip back about 1" of insulation on the 26 gauge wire. Then wrap the exposed part of the 26 gauge wire around the 1/4" exposure a few times and solder it then either shrink wrap or electrical tape the connection up. No need to use butt connectors.

u/flat4gt30 · 1 pointr/RBA

This is concerning, the nominal voltage range for an 18650 is 3.6-3.7 and the maximum voltage on a full charge might hit closer to 4.3v. What charger are you using, and what volt meter.

I would still recommend picking up a true multi meter, it dosen't have to be a fluke or a klein, just something that gives an accurate reading.

u/Kiraisuki · 1 pointr/Gameboy

For the multimeter, I have this one and it works perfectly fine. That module you linked won't work, though. That mudole's module's minimum input is 4V, and the Pocket runs on 3V with fresh batteries. Something more like this module would work. I could be wrong though, as I've never done this mod; I just shoved a lithium-ion battery into my Pocket and it works great.

Also, going down the rabbit hole is really fun! I started with the backoight backlight mod, then I did a prosound, then a USB rechargeable battery, then a bass boost, then an amplifier, and I'm debating doing a bivert, though with how little space is left after the preceding mess, I probably can't. :P

EDIT: Wow I butchered the spelling of "module"

EDIT2: And the spelling of "backlight"

u/fastbiter · 1 pointr/EDC

That's a great one too, cheap, reliable, moderately fast auto ranging. I wouldn't use it for measuring high current/voltage but for hobbyist purposes it's great.

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419118140&sr=8-1&keywords=multimeter

u/expiredgoatmeal · 1 pointr/GAAB350

the only way to know the actual voltage is to go in and check it with a multimeter. something like this should work just fine for the job. you'll want to take off your case's back panel, put your PC on some gpu load like furmark or firestrike or something, and put one multimeter lead on one circled pin and one lead on the other (if it's negative just flip the leads around) if you've never used a multimeter before, it's easy---just put the red in the red, the black in the black, and set the dial to what's in green.
be careful not to short the two pins together, though.

u/w00tiSecurity_weenie · 1 pointr/homelab

So i think my multimeter doesnt have enough ranges to test the variety of different settings on.



i ended up giving up. I dont think my multimeter does is able to read the different sizes or idk but I am getting a lot of misleading things and my head hurts from organizing by color. Can anyone recommend if one of these will be good?


  1. INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter

  2. AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Test

  3. Crenova MS8233D Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter


u/claspinfo · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Thanks for the thorough answer! I really appreciate the help! I don't have any tools unfortunately but I can get them. Would this be a good voltmeter? (Innova 3320)
So to confirm, I would connect the voltmeter to the crankshaft sensor and test whether there is any output? I can also rent a fuel gauge and try your second suggestion. I'll keep you posted. Thanks so much again!

u/IWannaMakeStuff · 1 pointr/arduino

Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:

> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.

> Other stuff:

> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment

> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.

I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:

u/SexlessNights · 1 pointr/ElectricalEngineering

Gotcha.

Go pick up an arduino kit, a few boards, an iron and solder.

The arduino kit will help with the physical electrical aspect, resistors, leds, servos, positive and negative, and it help with the theory/text book stuff such as amps, ohms, voltages etc.

Pick up a multimeter and look up how to test resistance , voltages, conductivity.

You can practice the soldering by putting led and resistors on a board. The arduino has tons of material for simple projects that include the code. So if the coding part doesn’t interest you, just copy the example
Code and build the circuit on the included breadboard. Then move the circuit into a blank soldering board

And make sure to research any questions instead of just asking someone who knows the answer. The reason I suggest research on your own first is there’s a lot to learn in the tech industry. The more you read the more you’ll familiarize yourself with key words, go to forums, and terminology.

u/skookum1 · 1 pointr/cars

That is overkill for what you need. You can normally find them for under $10 bucks at harbor freight. Parts places would have some, but might bend you over for one. If you want a nice one for the money this is the one I have:

http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1311290504&sr=8-2

Also, you do not need a test light if you have a multimeter, you can set it to audible continuity test and it will beep if you have power.

u/backlumchaam · 1 pointr/audiophile

Lady Ada sums it up nicely: http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/ I will say I disagree with her/Bob Pease's comments on the usefulness of a temperature probe. I had an apartment once with an oven that lacked markings on the control knob. A sharpie and my multimeter with thermocouple fixed that problem. 8D

They are mostly a commodity item at this point, unless you got Fluke money (I got a used Fluke 89-IV for ~$175 on eBay a few years ago, score).

I'd think this one should work well: http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/

u/westom · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yes - major. A digital meter provides three digit numbers. An example:
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1510587688&sr=8-6&keywords=digital+volt+meter&dpID=41CeZkP6ksL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

These are available in Sears. In stores that also sell hammers and auto repair tools. In Walmart for maybe $18. In Harbor Freight sometimes for only $6.

No results can exist if you do not obtain (request) the second item. Second item (instructions) says what to do.

u/Tudius · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have this one and it works great.

u/BSandLies · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I've heard good things about this one http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA as an entry-level unit. Unlike the HF one, it is auto-ranging so a little more beginner friendly.

If your budget allows, get yourself a Fluke. If you're only scraping by, a Harbor Freight one will get you started.

u/garagio · 1 pointr/diyelectronics

Not really worth it with prices for real multimeters starting from from literally $0 and decent ones under $20 (when on sale).

u/ZoidbergRush · 1 pointr/techsupport

So basically digital only?
So will this be a good choice? INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o0TEybZY2V8B1

u/PSYKO_Inc · 0 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

What kind of multimeter are you using? If it's one of the $5 Harbor Freight meters, chuck it. Those aren't worth the cheap plastic they're made of in my experience. I use this multimeter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EVYGZA?pc_redir=1409305585&robot_redir=1 I bought it a couple years ago for about $20 and use it for a number of electronic, home electrical, and automotive electrical projects, it's always been dead on. I've even compared it side by side with the laboratory calibrated Fluke meter I use at work and it's within .01v, good enough for me.