Reddit Reddit reviews INNOVA 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor

We found 14 Reddit comments about INNOVA 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Automotive
Automotive Tools & Equipment
Battery Testers
Diagnostic, Test & Measurement Tools
INNOVA 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor
Easily plugs into vehicle’s cigarette lighter or power receptacle to monitor battery and charging system voltageDesigned for 12-volt negative ground systemsLCD displays measured voltage with a bar graph to indicate battery charge levelColor-coded LEDs quickly identify battery’s charge statusHead pivots for easy viewing and angle adjustment
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14 Reddit comments about INNOVA 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor:

u/xinaked · 4 pointsr/vandwellers

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_17

If you just want voltage, which will give you an idea of battery drain, this is it

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 4 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I sort of doubt it on a 2014 Honda.

If the battery is more than three years old it's the battery.

You need to measure the charging voltage it should be over 14V when running.

One of these gizmos is handy as it shows the state of the battery charge when the car is off and shows charging voltage with engine running:

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0

Note that Honda has a variable output alternator; that can confuse some folks doing voltage testing since it reduces output to around 12.7 volts when battery is charged.

u/scarabin · 3 pointsr/BurningMan

that'd do it; i don't know why you'd need two inverters though.

also you want a deep cycle battery rather than a regular car one as car batteries are designed for short bursts of high energy rather than a sustained drain. deep cycle batteries are used for running the electricity on boats and RVs. make sure to get one that's "100ah" or higher. that's essentially the amount of power available in the battery and the more you have the longer you can power your stuff. you can get two and connect them in parallel (google image this for a diagram) to increase your available energy.

you'll also want to get a battery charge reader so you can monitor how much charge the battery has. a full charged battery is 12.6v, and you should turn everything off and recharge if you dip down to 12v as that's around 50% charge and anything less than that will actually kill your battery and it won't charge again.

definitely don't do the gennie, we have enough air and noise pollution out there...


battery
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Power-Group-45978-Battery/dp/B0044Z8DJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374787029&sr=8-1&keywords=UPG+UB121000

combine these two items to create a battery charge reader
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00065L2D8/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Occhrome · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

TBH i don think that little thing will do much at most it only puts back like 4 watts under ideal circumstances. meanwhile your computer is drawing at least 40watts and phone about 5 watts.

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i use something like this to monitor my battery whenever im listening to the radio or charging my computer. once it gets too low ill turn the car on for a little while. but i also pack a jump starter in all my cars just incase.

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0/ref=pd_cp_107_1?pd_rd_w=bySXE&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=WT057VG43YSGXRCZH4Z2&pd_rd_r=56420b0a-67b9-11e9-aa29-13293a7f6817&pd_rd_wg=y2YGT&pd_rd_i=B000EVWDU0&psc=1&refRID=WT057VG43YSGXRCZH4Z2

u/Immatix · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

It looks like the 1999 Escort uses a serpentine belt and thus does not require manual adjustment, so I doubt your belt is slipping unless certain conditions exist:

  • The belt is very old and worn/cracked, or
  • The belt tensioner isn't working properly anymore

    Check the belt and the tensioner first.

    It might be possible that your alternator is supplying too much voltage, actually. Possibly due to a faulty regulator. I'm not sure if the alternator test carried out at O'Reilly's would detect that if it's only done with the engine at idle.

    Apparently the '99 Escort doesn't have any battery gauge on the instrument cluster, but just an idiot light. You might want to check the voltage while driving or increasing the engine RPM to see what's actually going on.

    Something similar to this thing could be useful and also probably the easiest way. Alternatively, just get a volt meter and check the voltage right at the battery terminals while revving the engine.

u/djscsi · 2 pointsr/Volvo

I have one of these volt meters that plugs into the 12v socket so you can monitor voltage when driving. Very handy. Voltage should be ~14 volts while running and ~12.x while stopped.

You can do this with a regular multimeter but sometimes it's helpful to be able to keep an eye on it while driving.

u/AtenzaGT · 1 pointr/Cartalk

I recently purchased one of these handy little gadgets that help me determine intermittent no start issues. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You plug it in before starting to get an idea of the level your battery is at, while starting and cranking. Also, you can get a GENERAL idea of battery drain by checking level when you turn car off and checking next morning before starting. Best way is for a shop to hook a test light in the circuit to represent battery draw. However, a minute draw is normal as well. Have you installed anything aftermarket like alarms, amplifiers, or have anything hooked to your cigarette lighter? Anything weird youve noticed with lighting? Also, if you do not connect a boost box, charger, or anything and let it sit, will it start back up later? Also, when the problem occurs and the engine "gives up" do the lights dim down and it starts doing multiple clicks?

u/olfitz · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I use one of these on both my starting and house systems.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0?keywords=voltmeter&qid=1448302823&ref_=sr_1_23&s=automotive&sr=1-23

If you're handy with tools you could probably knock the cigarette lighter adapter off and stick it on the wall wired in to your house system.

If you're designing the system for scratch, it would be nice to include an shunt and ammeter so you can see real time draw on the system.

u/Mister_Johnson_ · 1 pointr/CrownVictoria

Get yourself one of these lil guys. It checks both your battery and your alternator.

u/must_ache · 1 pointr/overlanding

As long as you're taking some long drives or you're doing extra charging at the correct voltage for AGM you should be good without a diode mod, I'm not sure how the voltage regulator works exactly, but I'm guessing this just tricks it into regulating at a higher voltage since silicon diodes have a forward voltage of about 0.7v this would raise an alternator putting out 14.2v to 14.9v. How the stock regulator adjusts for bulk, absorption, equalization, and float charge I'm not sure, and I'm not sure how this mod would effect it. But it looks like enough people have done it that if there were issues it would be known by now, I wouldn't do as some people are doing and just putting a diode in place of a fuse, but put it in line with a fuse like the product above is with an add a circuit mod.

I'd just get a cheap volt meter to measure usage. As long as the battery isn't under much load, it should be accurate enough. Typically you don't want to run a deep cycle battery below 50% for best life, though you can go down to 20% occasionally without much damage to a quality deep cycle, for an AGM that is usually 12.2v(50% @80ºF) and 11.8v(20% @80ºF) with full charge being around 12.8v after the float charge is gone. With a big battery like this you could probably start your truck with 20% charge, but I'd carry a lithium jump pack if I was planning on trying it alone with no one around to jump me.

The switch pro units do look pretty awesome, despite being expensive. Being able to use ignition only wired thing by using the app rather than putting the key in does look like an awesome feature. As well as output dimming for lights that support it. 2 year warranty does seem kind crummy, but I imagine most failure would be DOA/Crib deaths or from abuse, being solid state and not using relays that wear out over time.

A noco G3500 or G7200 is plenty for overnight charging of a single 100ah battery like yours, especially if just topping it off. Get the 7200 if you think you'll go dual battery in the future.

u/zzyzzx2 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

How many miles are on the car?
If I had to be like OJ and take a stab at it, I am thinking that a piece of snow or ice got someplace where it shouldn't be.

Get one of these and use it (some Walmarts and Harbor Freights have them or something similar):
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0

u/jtwct · 1 pointr/BMW

I think it's more to do with the battery not having enough time to fully charge due to the short driving distance.

Perhaps you should pick up a voltmeter for like $10ish on Amazon.com or a local shop? You can take measurements in the morning when it's not starting well and later in the day when it is starting well. It'll be difficult for the dealership to replicate your driving pattern so perhaps it's best that you do it.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406872499&sr=8-3&keywords=voltmeter+car

I have this one but it's a bit more complicated and works on other things also: http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-Manual-Multimeter/dp/B0050LVFS0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1406872598&sr=8-7&keywords=voltmeter

u/reodorant · 1 pointr/electronics

would something like this or this be able to tell me?