Reddit Reddit reviews iPower GLHTMTCONTROL 40-108 Degrees Fahrenheit Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Rooting Germination Reptiles, Fermentation and Brewing, Black

We found 29 Reddit comments about iPower GLHTMTCONTROL 40-108 Degrees Fahrenheit Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Rooting Germination Reptiles, Fermentation and Brewing, Black. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Gardening & Lawn Care
Indoor Gardening & Hydroponics
Plant Heating Mats
Patio, Lawn & Garden
iPower GLHTMTCONTROL 40-108 Degrees Fahrenheit Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Rooting Germination Reptiles, Fermentation and Brewing, Black
PROFESSIONAL RELIABILITY: Digital temperature controller for heat mat in colder or warmer environments. 1 Year manufacturer warranty. Package include: 1 pack iPower digital heat mat thermostat controllerVARIETY OF USES: Heat mat thermostat provides constant customized temp for Seed Germination, Rooting, Reptiles, Homebrewing and Fermentation, keeping your various environments in their ideal temperature rangeTEMPERATURE RANGE: Digital thermostat provides temperature control between 40°F - 108°F (5-42°C). Temperature Display Range: 32 -140°F. Choice of Celsius or Fahrenheit readoutTECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS: 120 Volts / 8.3 Max Amps /60 HZ / 1000 Watts. Easy plug-in operation with LED illuminated indicator lights & three-prong grounded plugNOTE: Please note that the controller can only be used to power off heating equipment at setting temperature and does not increase the heating power of the heating equipmentpower source type: Corded-Electric
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29 Reddit comments about iPower GLHTMTCONTROL 40-108 Degrees Fahrenheit Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Rooting Germination Reptiles, Fermentation and Brewing, Black:

u/MP5OOO · 8 pointsr/Sneks

Thermostat for the UTH (under tank heater)! That's a BIG MUST for a UTH. Temps that are too high can cause burns and neurological issues (aka brain damage). You can get one relatively cheap. The one I use is here iPower Digital Heat Mat Thermostat
Good luck, you choose the right pet!🐍 Hisss!

u/Librarycat77 · 6 pointsr/gardening

These heat mats are meant to be used with a device which monitors the temperature and then controlls the amount of current running through them. Like this.

That being said, it shouldn't get to the point where it's melting itself.

u/earthwormjim91 · 4 pointsr/snakes

Humidity should be fine for a corn. The heat mat is most likely the issue.

You should have it on an actual thermostat that will regulate it. Off and on doesn't do any good if it still reaches high temps since it only takes a few minutes for a heat mat to heat up to full temp, which can easily be 110-115 or more. Anything over 105 can cause permanent nerve and brain damage due to them not being able to self regulate their body heat. If you turn it off for 15 minutes 6 times a day, that's still 22.5 hours at full temp.

You also need to measure the actual floor, and not just the substrate. If you have an IR thermometer, move the substrate aside and actually measure the temp of the tank surface. Corn snakes will burrow and if you only measure away from the heat mat you'll never get an accurate temp of what the snake could be laying against if it burrows down to it.

There are absolutely FAR better thermostats than this one, but this is not a terrible one to get and dirt cheap. I hot glue the probe to the floor over the hottest part of the heat mat.

u/PartTimeDiurnal · 4 pointsr/snakes

Great! Looking forward to seeing your new buddy. :)

So, carpet pythons are a tropical species, and as such do require specific temperature ranges and humidity levels. Ideally, it should be about 33c on the warm side, and 22c on the cool side. Normally, people control temperature with thermostats. You put the temperature probe above the heater, inside the warm side's hide, and set the temperature you want it to maintain. Bam - instant temperature control!

The next thing you'll want to do is invest in a digital thermometer and hygrometer combo, ideally something with probes that you can place around the vivarium. This will let you double check temps and humidity around the viv. Long term, the thermostat can measure the warm side and your thermometer/hygrometer can measure it on the cool side.

For humidity, you should be aiming for like 50% - 80%. The hygrometer part of your thermometer/hygrometer measures the humidity level. Grab yourself a spray bottle, fill it with water, and give the viv a good misting when humidity levels get too low.

I'd recommend googling "carpet python care" and reading the entire first page of results. There's a lot of great information from a number of knowledgeable keepers there, and it'll help you figure out which suggestions are actually good, and which ones don't make sense.

Do you mind if I ask what country you live in? Sounds like it probably isn't the US (where I'm from)

u/ClaryFey · 3 pointsr/leopardgeckos

I personally love this thermostat. It's affordable, and works great with an easy-to-read digital format and it's also easy to program.

u/KimberelyG · 3 pointsr/snakes

You've got good advice already - thermostat to safely regulate the cage heat (a cheap one like this works), a cool side hide, a warm side hide, lots of clutter (wood, fake plants, etc.) around the cage so your snake can feel securely "hidden" even while not in a hide, and a hygrometer & thermometer (like this one) so you can keep an eye on the cage temperature and humidity. <- (proper humidity is important for ball pythons so they can shed well and so they don't get dehydrated)

For a retained eyecap you can try the old warm-damp-towel-in-a-pillowcase trick: wet a towel with warm water, squeeze it out so it's not sopping wet, drop it in a pillowcase, add your snake, tie closed, and let your snake slither around in there for 15-30 minutes or so. The warmth, moisture, and gentle friction from the towel can loosen stuck shed.

Edit: fixed the links.

u/jupiter15937 · 3 pointsr/leopardgeckos
u/Barnhardt1 · 2 pointsr/googlehome

We use these for our bearded dragon and hedgehog, but there's no reason you couldn't just plug a space heater into it. I agree there's not really a need for a "smart" solution here.

u/MSRT · 2 pointsr/reptiles

Get yourself a heat mat and a cheaper thermostat. I use these when I need a cheaper option. I also have a second probe thermometer to monitor the temps since I don't completely trust the cheaper thermostats. But I've used them for years without any issues, so I haven't found anything to justify my distrust. I just like to be doubly sure. (:

For the shedding, the most important thing to help your leo is a humid hide. My girls get enclosed hides (something with a base and only a hole entrance) with sphagnum moss. I mist the moss until damp every other day or as needed. I live in a very arid environment (usually around 20%) and don't do anything else for my leos humidity wise except their hides. They very rarely have any shedding issues. One girl actually came to me with horrible chronic shed problems (she lost 3/4ths of her poor little toes to stuck shed), but with her humid hide she's not had any problems since!

If you don't have one already, there are guides to making your own humid hide. You can get a tupperware container with a lid, place it on it's top and cut a hole in the side where the leo can get in. Stuff it with a bit of moss and mist it and there you go! There are hides sold specifically for humidity, and I find my girls prefer the dark hides to the clear tupperware, but it sounds like your boy needs something ASAP.

Edit: to answer your question more. I only step in for stuck shed with my leos if it has been a few days. Once in a while they will have some left over for awhile after a shed, but they usually take care of it themselves. Toes and noses can be tricky and can take some time. If they have a humid hide they'll use it to help soften the remains. When I do have to step in, I use a wet cotton swab after a soak. You can try dripping water onto his nose to soften the shed first.

u/Pontlfication · 2 pointsr/mead

I use a fair bit of blankets and a plant germinating mat with a temp probe. I think I paid 20-30$ for that mat, and blankets/towels from a second-hand store. If the room is cold enough, you shouldn't need a freezer. It will be less effective but much cheaper. Something like this, mat not included.

u/noctornalbby · 2 pointsr/ballpython

I use this thermometer and put it at the very beginning of his cool end/toward the middle of his tank.

There are more expensive ones that are reptile specific out there, but this has never failed me. Just be sure you have a stat for each heat source and have the probes positioned appropriately

Also might be worth getting a temp gun. They’re accurate and can give you exact readings for spots they hang out most.

u/ruggles_bottombush · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I wouldn't put too much stock into anything you read on yahoo answers. I've used CHEs for a number of years without issue. Depending on the wattage, I've measured over 500 degrees on the surface of the CHE but ceramics can withstand extremely high temperatures. A defective CHE with a bubble in the material could easily explode and I'm sure it happens but it seems rare. If you are concerned, there are very reliable and affordable thermostats available online. Just make sure you are using a light fixture with a ceramic socket so it can withstand the heat of the CHE. These are the fixtures and thermostats I've used with CHEs and UTHs.


u/2capp · 2 pointsr/Sourdough

I tend to keep my apartment around 70F, which wasn't enough to keep my starter decently active. I bought a seed germination mat with a thermostat and put it in a plastic storage bin. Works great to keep my starter temp consistent and doubles as a proofing bin when I'm baking.

u/tensecondsflat_ · 2 pointsr/cornsnakes

I am a huge fan of these thermostats. I have three for my snake's viv-- one dangling under the heat lamp at the point she could slither to, one against the glass where the heat mat for the warm side is, and one against the glass where the heat mat for the cool side is (my house runs too cold, so I keep lamp+mat for the warm side both set to one temp, and mat on cool side set to a lower temp).

u/bekindrewind · 2 pointsr/snakes

You don't need a "night light", you want your snake to have darkness at night. Light and heat should be from two separate sources, and make sure your heat source is always controlled by a thermostat. If your room does not receive ambient lighting from a window, etc. you can use something as simple as a clamp lamp with an led light bulb screwed into it, plugged into an outlet timer. As long as the light is not overly bright (grow lights or aquarium fixtures can be too bright) and your snake has a place(s) to seek shelter this will work fine.

u/nothingbutt · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

This approach came up on the Facebook group:

And control the temperature using one of:

If I do this, I'd personally use an ESP32 microcontroller instead as I have those and like playing with them.

u/lykideus · 1 pointr/snakes

I have used the thermostat you linked for 2-ish years without a single problem. I also recently purchased this even cheaper but functionally identical thermostat, and it's been working perfectly for the last week.

u/Shaylios · 1 pointr/BallPythons

Thank you all so much for the advice!

I'm really strapped for money right now, so I'm going to try and make her tank work for as long as possible. I put a little amazon shop list together with some of the recommended products - please feel free to take a look and recommend other suitable products.

In the list, I've got multiple different fake plants, some black 1 entrance hides, a complete hide with 4 sides and just a hole, multiple digital thermometers / hygrometers, a kitchen scale, coconut fiber, aspen bedding, a ceramic heat emitter with dome, and a thermostat
(I had already bought this one
would it be suitable? Or should I return it to get the one on the shopping list?)

She does have one of those metal screen tops, but we put a few boxes and such on top for extra security. I may pick up some insulation pads at my local Lowes and attach them to the outsides of the tank to help keep the heat in. Thoughts on that?

Sarah is eating okay. So far we've been giving her 1 little fuzzy each Saturday. Hopefully when I get the scale I'll be able to more accurately assess the food weight vs hers.

Her shed has come completely off! I gave her a nice warm soak shortly after the photos had been taken, and it was like she just wiggled out of it. Hopefully with the substrate change and the addition to the 4 sided humid hide, I won't need to soak her and she can just do her own thing.

When it comes to the ceramic heat emitter, is 60 watts enough? I'm afraid of burning her. The cage is only about a foot tall, and it would have to be in one of those dome lamps that sit attached to the screen. I've been leaning towards getting the "Zoo Med Deluxe Porcelain Clamp Lamp" for the bulb. Has anyone had any experience with this? Will they work together?

I'm absolutely horrified of any fire risks (my house had burnt down about a year and a half ago due to faulty wiring) so are there any tips to help prevent overheating?

Again, thank you all for the amazing advice. Looking at Sarah's previous setup and then looking at everything thats been suggested breaks my heart. I wish I had known sooner that she was being treated this way... But my friend had made it clear that she was "basically an expert" and "knows what to do." Let me roll my eyes a bit harder. As soon as I had seen her bearded dragon laying in sand, I knew she didn't know anything about these poor animals. It takes a few minutes to do some decent research on an animal. Its been just a day since I've reached out to all of you, and look at all this information! You would think in the 3 or so years that my friend had Sarah, she could've taken the time just to do a basic google search...
Some people really should never have animals.

Anyways, sorry for the tangent. Please let me know what you guys think of the products I'm considering! Thank you so much!

u/Herherpsnderps · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

I'd say your thermostat is broken, if it goes over the set 90f you put in, it should be shutting off, not continuing to heat. Maybe try contacting the company to see if they have suggestions or if they can just replace it? I use a viviarium electronic thermostat for my rack but that would probably be overkill for you. I have used this one before for other species and it works pretty well! What do the tank temps get in the cooler side with the CHE off? does your house stay warm enough to rely on heat pad alone?

u/Scoby_Doby_Doo · 1 pointr/Kombucha

iPower 68-108°F Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination

iPower Small Seedling Heat Mat 10" x 20.5" Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad with Durable Waterproof Design

I use 3x20 mats for the 2Gs. I may get controllers if things get a bit toasty during the summer.

u/Asauna · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

I've found Repticarpet gets messy quickly, especially when your gecko goes for a dip in their calcium dish and tracks it everywhere. I personally use non adhesive shelf liner for the bottom of my tank and add a few stones from the pet store for texture for my little one to run around upon.

I suggest using a temperature gauge to make sure the heat mat doesn't burn them. I like to get them for cheap. I've bought 6 and have loved them all. You typically stick the probe between the mat and the glass, and set the temperature accordingly. This is what I use: is the one I use

I also use sphagnum moss in the moist hide as it holds humidity better, but paper towels will get the job done so long as you're properly moistening them.

I recommend the Flukers heat mat. It's non adhesive, so you'll want to purchase HVAC tape. This is tape that can be found at most hardware stores. It is made out of adhesive and aluminum foil, so it can easily handle the high temperatures. you can find it in the plumbing section. I've used the heat mats that come with the stickiness on them only to bend and break them when trying to deep clean the tank (I'm not gentle), so this will let you avoid having to replace them as often.

As it's winter, if you find their ambient air falling low, you can always invest in a ceramic heat emitter.

I also suggest using a digital thermometer to gauge the temperature of the air within the tank. You can find these online anywhere between 10 dollars and 100. I have a simple one and it's done the job. This has also helped me with ensuring that I have the heat mat at the right temperature, in case some heat gets lost through the glass and I have to raise the temperatures using the thermometer.

As someone else has said, it's better to avoid loose substrate when at all possible, such as sand or dirt, especially if you're just starting out. This will minimize risk of impaction.

And If you have any other questions, feel free to reach out. C:

u/no-mad · 1 pointr/microgrowery

add a thermostat to keep it at 75 degrees

u/Splatini · 1 pointr/Hedgehog

I haven't heard of anyone using those. It looks interesting but a couple things I can think of:

If that power symbol on the top left is a light, it may disturb your hedgehog.

It says it has two heat settings with a built-in thermostat. If those settings aren't an appropriate temperature, you may need an additional thermostat. Redundancy is always good with heaters anyway in case of failure.

I wouldn't place it within reach of the hedgehog despite it saying zero clearance.

Most people use these types of heat products:

u/6-5-10-6-11 · 1 pointr/Greenhouses

It's on the bottom left side. Here is the Amazon link. iPower 40-108°F Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing

Caution, you want to run your space heater on a low to medium setting. The thermostat can't handle anything above 10ampers

u/Soceral · 1 pointr/Hedgehog

Zilla 11931 8-1/2-Inch Reflector Dome For Up to 150-Watt Bulbs, Silver

These are links to the best heat to use the lightbulb comes with a thermometer and the thermostat connects to the light allowing you to set the temperature. ( If you're just interested in the thermostat it's the last link!)

u/squishybloo · 1 pointr/hognosesnakes

You absolutely MUST regulate your temperature with a thermostat/rheostat. They are very cheap, buy one right now. You put the thermometer probe on the bottom of the inside of the enclosure, and set it to the proper temp of ~90F.

I would advise moving your hognose out of the 20 gallon tank - it's far too big for a baby - and moving it into a plastic bin instead. They hold heat much better to keep the ambient around ~80F, as well. Something closer to this will work much better for your snake while it's young and less than ~12" long. You will want to punch holes in it for air flow. I'd also suggest changing to 2-3" of aspen bedding, since hognoses like to burrow and walnut will not hold burrows.

u/lyssweb · 1 pointr/snakes

here is the thermostat that I have always used. it’s a good price and I haven’t had any issues with it

and here are the thermometer/hygrometer combos that I use. one on the hot side, and one on the cool side.