Reddit reviews IRWIN Bolt Extractor Set, 5-Piece (394001)

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I bought a used VW Jetta (can't recall if '04, '05, or '06 model) that didn't come with its lug nut key. We ended up replacing all of them with normal VW Jetta lug nuts purchased from Auto Zone. To get the nuts out I think we ended up buying a tool that is intended for stripped/rounded nuts. Basically, something like this. I can't recall what size worked, though. It's actually possible that none of those sizes worked (IE, none of them were quite big enough) and we ended up using something else (maybe a giant hex bit socket?) hammered around the evil lug nuts. Either way I recall it being a temporarily grueling but ultimately productive process.

I apologize for not having more detail but it's been years and I didn't keep the tools for myself ; I added them to my dad's arsenal. None of the linked products are necessarily what I used since we found them at Auto Zone, not Amazon.

Ugh, that sucks! I think you can get a socket style bolt extractor in there. You might be able to buy just the size you need at a good hardware or automotive store.

Something like this:

IRWIN HANSON BOLT-GRIP Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5 Piece, 394001 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Leu9ybKM1NTTD

You'd have to be living in a pretty rough area to have stock TJ rims/tires stolen. I'd use something like this and replace the keyed lugnuts with a regular ones.

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ

problem solved, you can thank me later

this little gadget has gotten me out of so many rusted bolt situations. if you can't get it out with this, then you're seriously screwed.

*btw, you can find this same set at most autozone/advance auto parts stores.

Assuming the head is stripped (rounded) and it's not the threads, I'd use this style of broken bold extractor. That is assuming you can fit it on.

If you've got nothing at all to work with, then you can use a spiral-flute type broken bolt extractor

These are basically like big reverse-threaded screws that screw in counterclockwise (so lefty-tighty, unlike normal bolts/screws) that let you put enough torque on the bolt to remove. No sawing is necessary, you just have to drill a hole into the stripped bolt more or less on center.

If it's the nut on the hinge pin, I'd just use a small drill bit and drill several holes vertically and then crack it with a chisel (protect the door when you do this.)

Practically everyone carries door hinge pins and mounting hardware. Jeep dealers will have them, as will the major online parts places (4WD, quadratec, etc.)

You have a few options for that nice round thing that used to be a nut:

1. buy a nut extractor, it's like a socket set that instead of fitting the nut, it has teeth that bite down into the rounded nut and you just use it like a socket.
   
   
2. you can use a dremel with a cutoff wheel (one worn down to about half normal diameter would be best) to slice the nut almost all the way through, then crack it with a chisel.
   
   
3. or you can use penetrating oil and a torch (will smoke like a mother) and try the vice grips again.
   
   I'd do #1 because I have a fondness of buying the right tool for a job. If for some reason I wanted to do it without leaving the house, I'd do #2 (hah, number 2).

If you have the room to use one, a set of Irwin Bolt extractors are your friends

They WILL trash the bolt, but its coming out. I also suggest soaking the bolt with good penetrating oil. Automatic transmission fluid mixed 50/50 with acetone works wonders. Apply it with a brush, and it goes to work better than PB blaster or Kroil

These are handy, too:

https://smile.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ/

About 10 years ago, I ended up needing a set to get the drain plug off my Monte Carlo ('04, with the piston slap-happy 3.4L V6) after the previous owner had almost completely rounded off the bolt head. I didn't have access to a welder, so this was after trying Quick Steel putty on a socket, which I was able to hammer into place, but it broke as soon as I started to turn it.

With the extractor sockets, the fucker came right out on the first attempt.

I had an impact socket crack and I didn't notice it until I found that I rounded a few of my lugs. Not a good feeling when trying to put the lugs back on. Anyway, I thought I'd give the Irwin Bolt Grips a try. Just hold them flush to the lug, pound them on with a few good whacks, put your cheater on, let the teeth bite and you should be home free. I was really surprised at how well they worked.

There are two sets, so get the one with the size that you need.

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=pd_lpo_469_tr_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=89Y0Z7YWWM97541FFBRA

Sears carries these in a Craftsman brand also.

What is the vehicle and what are you trying to remove it with? If you're using an adjustable wrench or vice grips or open end wrench, stop. The correct size closed end wrench or socket will not slip. Pretty much everything is metric now and if I had to take a wild guess that's a relatively recent GM vehicle? If so it's probably 13mm.

Then again at this point it may be damaged enough to not accept the proper size so you may want to replace the drain plug when you get it off. I've had success (gently!) tapping the correct size socket on with a hammer after someone boogered up the head.

Edit.... If it's still not working you may want to invest in something like this (example, not necessarily correct size).

Wait. You’re just trying to get the oil filter cap off? If you are just use these: nut extractor I’ve used them on turbos before and they work. Just hammer it on and twist it off

These have been recommended many times here. I haven't used them myself.

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502689488&sr=8-1&keywords=irwin+nut+extractor

Something like these will probably work. If not, you may need to weld a nut to it and turn it with a wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ You had to use something like this to get that bolt out correct?

Definitely replace the bolt. You have a few options for trying to remove the seized head but before doing anything, I'd try soaking it with penetrating oil to see if that will help loosen things up.

If there's enough of the bolt sticking out, an eccentric stud extractor is my favorite way to remove a broken bolt. Otherwise you can use something that fits over the stud ordrills into the stud.

Good luck, broken bolts are a pain.

for the rear, lift under the differential (use a hockey puck between the jack and diff cover if your jack doesn't have a pad) and put a jack stand on each side of the car on the frame just in front of where the LCA meets the chassis.

Then lower the jack under the axle which will let you push down the axle so that the springs just fall out.

don't lift the car at the LCA's. They don't seem like they are designed to bear that much pressure on that chassis joint but I could be wrong.

Camber plates are not really needed until you hit about a 2" front drop.

Here's a short list of the most common tools I carry when working on someone's car

Torque wrench

Deep sockets that can take a beating from an impact gun

Extensions (pro tip: if you ever have to change your starter, you will need about 15+ inches of extensions)

And this is the spring compressors I use

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMDPLM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a 90 something piece craftsman set with most of the 1/4" and 3/8" drive bits and swivels/boxx wrenches, etc but usually use the 1/2 stanley sockets get grabbed first.

These are also super handy if you have a power drill (better yet, a power drill with impact setting)


Mustangs don't really have a whole lot of random tools needed to work on them so unless you have a foreign car, your tool set shouldn't ever really get too complicated.

It's typically when you get blindsided by some small little issue like a rusted or rounded off bolt that can turn a 2 hour job into a 2 day job. I worked on a guy's old fox body to help him replace a clutch and he had 2 stripped transmission bolts. I had these handy which were more or less the only way we could have gotten that done (besides calling a tow truck to take it to a transmission shop)

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406576108&sr=8-2&keywords=stripped+bolt+remover

Mostly circular, they have a few spots for the "key" to lock onto though. They are not immune to these though: http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1397918519&sr=1-6&keywords=stud+remover

Have you removed the intake manifold yet?

If so, is there any bolt left sticking up? If that's the case step 1 is vise grips (which will work unless the bold has corroded into the block/lower intake manifold/whatever it's bolted to) and step two would be a multi-spline extractor like these.

That's pretty much the way to do it. Trying to drill and not screw up threads is going to be pretty dicey.