Reddit Reddit reviews Jump Start JumpStart MTPRTC Digital Controller Germination Heat Mat Thermostat

We found 168 Reddit comments about Jump Start JumpStart MTPRTC Digital Controller Germination Heat Mat Thermostat. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Jump Start JumpStart MTPRTC Digital Controller Germination Heat Mat Thermostat
The only safety ETL certified thermostat on the marketProvides constant optimal temperatures for germination/rootingIdeal in homebrewing for maintaining desired fermentation temperature, and perfect for temperature control in reptile terrariums and small pet enclosures.LED heating indicator light and Digital temperature controlControllable range of 68°F - 108°F, Choice of Celsius or Fahrenheit readout (press Up or Down button to change)1 Year Warranty
Check price on Amazon

168 Reddit comments about Jump Start JumpStart MTPRTC Digital Controller Germination Heat Mat Thermostat:

u/_ataraxia · 35 pointsr/snakes

i've been paged for my link dump, so here it is. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

  • the basics and then some
  • common problems
  • feeding problems
  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
u/knerys · 21 pointsr/snakes

Congrats on a the new friend! There is, however, quite a lot wrong with your set up. The four biggest issues I am seeing are that 1.) You hide is inadequate 2.) You have a dangerous thermometer, and 3.) you are using a glass tank. 4.) I do not see a thermostat

Half logs are not adequet hides, they are too open and exposed. You want something that is enclosed on all sides and has only on small, offset opening. Here's good examples of what I mean. Snakes get stressed when they cannot find a place to properly hide, and will start trying to find ways to escape if they don't have a good place to hide. You want at least two hides - one on each side of the temperature gradient.

That thermometer you have is wildly inaccurate and has been known to injure and kill snakes. Snakes will crawl on it, the adhesive will give way, and the snake will get stuck to it. The snake will attempt to free itself, and tear its skin off. Switch that out for a digital hygrometer/thermometer combo.

Glass tanks are really bad at holding in heat and humidity. Glass is a bad insulator, and screen tops let heat and humidity escape. Ball pythons need between 60-80% humidity at all times. They need an ambient temperature above 75F at all times, and a warm spot of 90F. This is really hard to achieve in a glass tank. Many BP owners opt for a rubber maid bin (plastic holds in heat) with a few holes drilled or soldered in the sides so that there is not enough air flow for the humidity to escape. Or they opt for a PVC tank from Animal Plastics or Boaphile.

Thermostats are super important in ensuring your BP does not get burnt. The heat mat I see you are using can get up to 120F very quickly, and if you snake is using it, then it can get badly burned.

Here is another comment I left on someone else's beginner set up post, I have a ton of links and product recommendations in it, it's pretty thorough.

This is one of the best care sheets out there. Read it very thoroughly.
This care sheet addresses very common problems you will encounter as a BP owner. Again, read it very thoroughly.
Finally, this goes over feeding problems in BPs.

I hope this was helpful, your set up currently is sub-optimal, but with some effort, you can get on the right track.

u/mothaway · 16 pointsr/snakes

For thermostats, the Hydrofarm Jump Start one for seed germination is the best bang for your buck. For UTH, just forgo the pet store stuff and jump directly to an Ultratherm in my opinion, they're generally more reliable -- but anything is better than nothing for this poor animal.

Thank you so so much for giving him a home... and if things don't work out, don't blame yourself. He's a sick animal that's been through a lot. You trying to help is more than most have done for him. You're a good person OP.

He's... gonna have issues. PVC pipe makes a great hide, and an overhead heater is better than nothing. I'd honestly recommend keeping him straight on paper towel for the time being, it's easier to clean and check for problems until he gets settled into trying to be a healthy snake, and it's cheaper to replace than substrate. A simple bowl, two hides, paper towels. That's the basics they need and for a sick animal, it's probably the way to go because if he is sick, it's a lot easier to sterilize that and a lot cheaper than replacing the bedding every week.

You know it's coming -- if you CAN get him to a vet, I would do that ASAP. If not... I get it. What you can do personally in the meantime is check him over for snake mites (like snake fleas, really small, like specks of black pepper moving over him,) and listen to how he breathes. If you hear clicking when he breathes, it's a strong sign of a respiratory infection. Those can be very dangerous, and you're gonna need to pick up antibiotics for him if that's the case. Since he's probably definitely underweight, fighting it off will be hard for him -- my vet told me to keep the ambient temperature in the enclosure a few degrees higher to help fight them off, and when my corn was battling his, it helped immensely. Heat is going to be a lifesaver for him in general... the thought of what he's endured is making me choke up in all honestly. I'm angry for him. But that's neither here nor there; an overhead heat source will do until you get an undertank heater!

That done... just... give him some time to settle in. A week before you touch him or try to feed him, unless you're gonna run him to the vet. He's been through a lot. He needs some time to feel secure and safe in this huge new environment. Once he's had that time to settle, try him on a nice frozen-thawed feeder of appropriate size, maybe even smaller just so you don't overload him all at once. If he's stubborn, hit the head with a hair-dryer to heat it up a little more than room temperature (not too hot!) and see if he'll take it then.

(Be sure to thaw the rest of it first, naturally. No offense meant whatsoever, I've just... seen some things in my time.)

If not, no pressure yet. This will take time. Leave it in there with him overnight, some of my snakes won't feed from tongs and prefer to find it on their own, and he might be similar. Him not constricting isn't too bad on its own, some of my snakes are like that -- but the reason for him doing it is almost definitely his health. He's probably pretty weak.

If he won't take it by morning, toss it. You can try again another time. If he doesn't eat after a week or two, you might need to source a freshly-killed mouse to try him on... given his state, I'd be terrified to try live even as a last resort. Again, a vet can advise you on what to do here, but if there are any snake-savvy folk around you that you can ask, they might have advice too. I'm sure the people here can give some great advice, too, but nothing will really compare to a vet being able to have hands-on time with the animal and to diagnose and advise him directly.

Does he look... wrinkled at all? He might have a stuck shed if he does- after he's had time to settle in, maybe try to give him a soak in some nice warm (not hot!) water if so, and then put a towel in his enclosure for him to rub it off on. May take a few tries... slow and steady will help this fellow, and be warned that a lot of snakes like to go to the bathroom in warm water. You'll have to take him out, wash everything good, and put him back into a clean container if he does. They always do in my house...

This is long, so TL;DR:

-Thank you!

-Vet if possible

-Quarantine him to keep an eye on him. Paper towels/butcher roll, two hides, heat, water bowl. Sterilization over Beautification and all of that.

-Give him a week to settle in before you try to feed or handle him

-Check for respiratory infection, parasites, and other issues with his health

-When you do try feeding for the first time, try frozen thawed first

-If he won't feed from tongs, leave it in there overnight with him

-If he won't take that, toss it and try next week

-If he doesn't eat after a few tries, try a freshly-killed mouse

-You're doing good, but this will take time and it won't be easy

-Good luck!

Snakes are resilient. I have faith in this one... keep us posted!

Edit:// I can't format text on reddit very well.

u/basilcoord · 13 pointsr/snakes

Ideally you’ll want two identical hides. One for each side of the tank. The ones you have are WAY too big. They need to feel snug in them. My boy has basically outgrown his favorite hides, but still stuffs his whole body in them regardless.

There’s also too much open space for a snake that size. It can cause lots of stress for them.Try cluttering it up with some more fake plants. You can get them much cheaper at any craft store near you. Just be sure to clean and dry them first.

Not sure what the heating source that you’re using is, but no matter what, it is vital that you are regulating the heat with a thermostat. This is NOT the same as a thermometer. Here’s a cheap, but reliable one. This will prevent any possibility of burns or overheating.

Speaking of thermometers though, the stick-on one that you are currently using is VERY dangerous and extremely inaccurate. The adhesive on the sticky ones fail quite often and can cause serious damage to your snake if they get caught up in it. Example of adhesive damage here.
Please invest in a digital thermometer/hygrometer ASAP and remove the sticky one.

Humidity might be difficult to keep up in a screen-top glass tank as well. Not impossible, but definitely difficult. Covering part of the screen top can help retain the moisture in the tank if you are having trouble keeping it at an appropiate level (55-80%). Switching substrates can also help woth humidity. Coco fibers like Repti-chip or Eco-earth are good options that won’t mold in the higher humidity environment.

I hope that all helps! If you have any other questions, please let me know!

u/Keifru · 13 pointsr/Sneks

Sounds like you were getting outdated or flat-out incorrect information and those 'experienced snake owners' are likewise misinformed. There are very few snakes that legitimately have evolved to thrive on sand-based substrate (irony being the Sand Boa is not one of them; they live in sandy soil which is very different composition than straight sand). The Ball Python is native to the svannah/jungles of Sub-Saharan Africa. Its dirt, soil, and burrows. Not a majority or even significant amount of sand.

Additionally, if I extrapolate correctly from this singular picture, your BP is also in a glass enclosure and has a log-style hide. The former makes keeping humidity in the 55~80% range a difficult exercise, and the latter, is a stressor as BPs do best with a hide that has a single-entrance or is cave-like; the more points of contact, the better, and a single entrance means they can feel safer.

I'm going to steal _ataraxia's ball python dump and toss it below:

i'm going to dump a bunch of links to get you on the right track. the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

  • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
  • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
  • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
u/ThePienosaur · 11 pointsr/ballpython

Red light isn't good, you'll want a heat mat (MAKE SURE you have a thermostat for it or it will get too hot) and possibly a ceramic heat emitter (also needs a thermostat) for air heat. What are the temps and humidity and how do you measure them? Glass tanks usually don't hold humidity well and often aren't good for bps. You need at least 2 good hides, one for each side. They should be snug and enclosed with only one opening, preferably identical, half logs don't work.

Someone should come by with a really good care sheet, read it, it has some great info. I know this might be a lot of information, but having a good setup is important and will save you headaches in the future.

Edit: I found the care sheet. Credit to u/_ataraxia.

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

  • the basics and then some
  • common problems
  • feeding problems
  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. They have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
u/kittycatpenut · 11 pointsr/leopardgeckos

So the first thing I would do is to ditch the sand. You can use paper towels for now and get ceramic tiles cut to size whenever you have the time.

The cage is a bit small (looks like a ten gallon?), which won't kill him, but he would appreciate the walking space of a twenty gallon long tank.

Heat lamps are hard to regulate and break often. A good long term solution would be to buy an under tank heater and a thermostat to control it. You absolutely must have a thermostat with a heat mat, or your lizard would be in danger of a serious burn! I've never had either a heat mat or a thermostat break and I've been using them for years.

This is a great cheap thermostat : Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-Certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Z51mybBXCYQKR

And a heat pad: Zoo Med ReptiTherm Under Tank Heater, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQCL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D71mybNN28CJW

If you choose to order them I would toss in a couple digital thermometers with probes to monitor the hot and cold sides. They should be super cheap

I would also add another hide on the cool side. You want at very least two hides, one on the hot side and one on the cold. You can use anything from a small cardboard box to a fancy reptile hide. If he has problems shedding in the future you can also add in a "humid hide" which in this case would be a small Tupperware with a hole cut out and damp moss or paper towels in it

u/doggofish · 10 pointsr/ballpython

Making sure your heat mat is covered is not adequate. If it is not regulated with a thermostat you are risking your snake getting a burn again. Also, they need to be able to hide over the heat source to digest, so covering it with a water bowl or substrate isn't good either. Here is a cheap basic thermostat you can get to make sure you won't have any burns.
https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539741953&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=jumpstart+thermostat+reptile

u/snakejudy · 10 pointsr/reptiles

Many geckos won't accept dead prey, and even if they do, it's a very poor long-term diet. Live insects have a higher moisture content, which is important because leos get most of their moisture from their diet. Also, the insects can be gut-loaded before feeding by giving them fresh vegetables or a commercially-produced gut-loading food. This makes them much more nutritious.

Live mealworms are a decent staple diet and are very easy to keep and feed. Leopard geckos are exclusively insectivores, so if you really can't deal with insects it might be best to consider rehoming him with someone who will be able to properly feed him.

Also, the heat mat in the enclosure must be hooked up to a thermostat, like this one, to control the temperature. I'd also suggest picking up and infrared temperature gun so that you can make sure everything is within the right range.

u/beefjeeef · 9 pointsr/snakes


First of all. It's very good you recognize that you need help in learning how to care for the snake.

Second, here is a big link dump created by another regular user u/_ataraxia all credit for this goes to her.

the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

  • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
  • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
  • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
u/angelicsnake · 9 pointsr/snakes

get one as fast as possible. a lot of people use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-Germination-MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542582605&sr=8-3&keywords=jumpstart+thermostat

without a thermostat, heating pads can reach 110 degrees or even more.

for now, bring your snake to the vet. if it were me, i would unplug the heat pad. a cold snake is better than a burnt snake

u/almightyshadowchan · 9 pointsr/snakes

Do you have a photo of the second boa? BCI and BCC aren't THAT different in size, though BCC average a foot or so larger.

I use thermometers like this, and place the probe on the substrate in the center of the hot spot. I have a temp gun like this to make sure the temps in other areas are within acceptable ranges.

You ALWAYS want to know the temperature of your hot spot, since the heating element can get hot enough to cook your snake. I just noticed this, but you need to get that lamp out of there - she can reach it, and she will burn herself on it. Boas LOVE climbing and they are dumb at registering pain.

Take out the lamp and replace it with an under tank heater or heat tape regulated by a thermostat (unregulated UTHs are dangerous). You can get a decent and affordable thermostat here.

u/klondikegrenade · 8 pointsr/snakes

You'd have to heat the plastic way beyond what is necessary and safe for the snake in order for it to produce toxic fumes that are going to harm your animals. That's of course assuming you're only trying to heat a hotspot and not the entire enclosure. If you're planning to heat the entire enclosure using a UTH then all bets are off.

And don't use a rheostat unless it is your only possible option. Use a thermostat. A decent on/off is pretty cheap these days.

u/birdsbirdsbirdsbirds · 8 pointsr/ballpython

There are some things in your description that could be cause for concern. I'm going to address specific details in your post, and include a link at the end. Please make sure you read through the link at the end!

First, is your heat pad hooked up to a thermostat? If not, unplug it and do not use it until you have a thermostat. A thermostat is even more essential than a thermometer. An unregulated heat pad is dangerous. Do NOT use a heat pad without a thermostat, or you risk serious burns to your snake! Two inexpensive models are InkBird and Jumpstart/Hydrofarm.

Thermometers and humidity gauges are also very important. Ball Pythons have specific heat and humidity needs. They will reject food, get sick, or have bad sheds if their temperatures and humidity are not on-par. Don't wait on this! And don't waste your time on analog dials. Start with an inexpensive digital thermometer/hygrometer to make sure your conditions are accurately monitored.

Neither the "daytime" nor the "infrared" lights are really appropriate. Snakes can see the light from both. You want a bulb that can be left on overnight without bothering the snake. Plus ambient light from a window is usually enough unless your room is particularly dark. Ditch both of your current heat lights and get a single Ceramic Heat Emitter bulb instead. It emits heat, but no light, and can be left running 24/7. ALSO get a lamp dimmer for your heat lamp, so you can more specifically control its heat output.

Next, ball pythons really should have two hides, one on the hot side and one on the cool so they don't have to sacrifice feeling safe to thermoregulate. Please get a second hide!

Now, with those specifics addressed, I highly recommend you read the following link dump by _Ataraxia. She did a good job compiling the most common advice on this sub. Pay special attention to those care sheets - read them all the way through.

You'll likely find things about your current enclosure (like aspen, which has a tendency to mold and doesn't retain humidity well) aren't quite appropriate for proper ball python care. We're here to help you and provide recommendations to ensure the long, happy life of your new scaly friend.

u/Cadder-12 · 8 pointsr/ballpython

Here's an info dump, courtesy of u/_ataraxia. It has pretty much everything you're asking about and more.

The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. Read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
Llet me know if any of the links don't work.

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

  • the basics and then some
  • common problems
  • feeding problems
  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. They have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
u/Vaporhead · 8 pointsr/snakes

u/ataraxia has amazing information for ball pythons. You should definitely read it through. Glass tanks are not ideal for Bps, so this should help. Here is her normal dump of information I took from another post.

i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

  • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
  • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
  • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
u/Nerochi · 7 pointsr/ballpython

Picture of the setup

Im using a 20 gallon long glass tank with this surrounding the sides and back, its a perfect fit. A day night timer hooked to a non heated light. I dont use heating that sucks the humidity out of the air by using a heat pad for both hides regulated by thermostats one for each pad. Substrate I use is coconut husk, this one lasted me a whole year and people say it wont mold as easily compared to other non coconut fiber substrates. The tank itself uses a screened sliding locked lid. I cant speak for how to lock down other types of lids for tanks. The screen however I covered most of it with 3 layers of foil followed by tape around the edges of the foil to keep it attached and sealed better to the screen. A hole for the non heated light was made and I used a cut up piece of a zipblock bag along with tape to cover over the hole for humidity reasons. Finally the hides are medium sized from reptile basics, I remember when he could easily fit in the small one, was such a tiny noodle and of course a simple plastic water dish big enough to soak in and aid in humidity.

For times when he is in shed though, I lightly spray down the substrate and sides and back of the tank once a day. I think just spraying the glass walls and keeping that large surface area wet is good enough though.

Other items include thermometer, fake plants, gram scale, and one ball python

u/hellobeffy · 7 pointsr/snakes

Home: For the heating pad, you need a thermostat, which will turn it on and off automatically around a specified heat range. Mine is set to 86 degrees with the probe placed between the heat mat and the bottom of the tank. This keeps the glass on top of the tank around 83-85, and the paper towel I have over the glass is around 81-83. You may need to have a different temperature setting, depending on your setup. You shouldn't turn the heat mat entirely off, unless you notice it is malfunctioning and overheating.


To make sure that your temperatures and humidity are decent, you will want a digital thermometer/hygrometer and a temperature gun. The cool side should be in the low-mid 70s and the warm side in the low-mid 80s. The humidity should be 30%-60%. If it isn't, you can make or buy a humid hide, block off some of the venting on the screen top with aluminum foil or acrylic panels, or switch substrates to something that can be misted. This last measure will likely not be necessary unless you live in a low-humidity area.


You should have two identical caves, one on the warm side over the heat mat and one on the cool side.


Diet: What you were told may be appropriate for an adult snake. If possible, weigh her and post pictures. Do a quick Google search on how much adult corns should be eating and how often. I only have a hatchling, and don't want to lead you astray with my lack of adult corn experience.


Handling: If you got her recently enough that you haven't fed her yet, you shouldn't be handling her yet. You should feed her at least once, preferably twice before handling her the first time, and wait 48 hours after feeding to handle her.


Depending on the snake, many can be held multiple times per week. Some are conservative and say only once a week for 15 minutes. Some people allow for more handling than this. But 3-4 times a week for 'extended periods' is almost definitely too much, and as she's new to you, you should be slowly working your way up to longer periods of handling. You also should never be handling her in the 48 hours after she eats.


Shedding: Their color will usually dull and their eyes will turn milky or blue. They might have some minor changes in behavior, like more resistance to handling or possibly even refusal to eat. Mine just shed, and hid for three days prior to that. Note that the shed should come off all in one piece -- if it doesn't, it may be a sign that your snake is dehydrated and doesn't have sufficient access to clean water or the humidity in the tank is too low.


Another quick note on water: You should be changing it at least twice a week, plus any time the snake soils it. I buy filtered spring water from the store, which doesn't have some of the chemicals in tap water that are fine for humans but not so good for snakes. It's kind of a pain in the butt, but it's only about $2 a month, so whatever.

u/PallBythons · 7 pointsr/ballpython

All heat sources should be regulated with a thermostat.

I regulate my tub with a hydrofarm thermostat. It's not that pricey but you do have to regularly check the temp.

For the good stuff, check out spyderrobotics

u/Watcher_woman · 6 pointsr/ballpython

No idea what you budget is, the size of the enclosure, or what the temperature of the room your are keeping it in but you can start by getting rid of that heat lamp and fixture.

Unless you want to install a cage around it to prevent any possibility of climbing on it. Even with that you must get a dimmer or thermostat to control it. I would never recommend a heat lamp in a cage however, that is just asking for burns.

Depending on the temperature year round that you keep your room you would do best to at the very least get an UTH to place for a hot side. I would also suggest if you are not keeping your room temperature at least 78 degrees F to get a radiant heat panel. If the enclosure is 3 feet wide then a 40 watt would do just fine. You can use a 40 watt for a 4 foot but an 80 watt would be better.

Both of these must be independently controlled by thermostats.


Here are some links to items to handle this


Thermostats on the cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S

Best you can get (herpstat 2 allows independent control of a UTH and RHP):

http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

*herpstat redline is on sale right now


UTH:

3 foot wide enclosure: http://www.reptilebasics.com/reptile-cages/2x3-cage-heat-kit/

4 foot wide enclosure: http://www.reptilebasics.com/reptile-cages/2x4-or-2x6-cage-heat-kit/


Radiant Heat Panels:


http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels


Examples of a heat lamp cage (you need something like this if you insist on a heat lamp inside a cage)

https://www.lllreptile.com/products/33783-heat-light-cage-cover

http://www.reptilesupplyco.com/wholesale-reptile-lighting-accessories/2189-heat-lamp-guard-black.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vivarium-Heat-Guard-Reptile-Safety-Light-Bulb-Cage-In-3-Sizes-/181530623821

u/nijjerfajjot · 6 pointsr/reptiles

you really need to be using one, this is the most important part of a reptiles cage that has heating. https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S this is about the cheapest one that works really well. if you want something more expensive but is made for professional keepers anything off this website is great http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1 . this is what can happen if you leave a heating element unregulated by a heating pad https://www.google.com/search?q=reptile+heat+mat+burn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjklM2tuPDTAhXBPiYKHcDlCUAQ_AUICygC&biw=1242&bih=573#imgrc=GW4T9DpzqKyZRM: . its either thermostat or no heat

u/Slaago · 6 pointsr/ballpython

Keep your heat mat on a thermostat! Check Amazon for the Hydrofarm Jumpstart. Do this ASAP, before anything else. Snakes don't feel pain the same way we do, and they have been known, commonly, to literally cook on an unregulated heat mat. Jumpstart

Make sure you have lots of clutter in that tank, and at least two hides which would be relatively snug fits. It is a very large tank for a young BP. Use black/dark paper to cover the back and sides of the tank. BPs like to feel safe, and that will help especially since the tank is so large.

Moving around at night is normal. They are nocturnal creatures. Being nocturnal, you should look into switching the lamp to a ceramic heat emitter (think light bulb, but without the light, only heat). Artificial light is unnecessary for them.

Don't handle them for 36-48 hours after feeding. You don't want to stress them and cause them to regurgitate.

Try to keep temps around 82, even at night, and no higher than 88 or so during the day

u/10iss · 5 pointsr/leopardgeckos

I think it's your thermostat. This is what I use and the the temp stays between 89 and 92 degrees on the hot hide https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/

u/irgama · 5 pointsr/snakes

Alright so, first thing I will address is feeding the snake outside of his tank. That is a huge point of discourse, and I have never seen any real studies pointing one way or the other. It all depends on the snake. From my own personal experience, I have never had an issue with feeding inside the tank with tongs. Also, feeding outside the tank requires you to handle your snake immediately after it eats which could be dangerous.

2) From what I am seeing in your post you have 2 hides. One a log, and the other a rock look-a-like with a slit. If that is incorrect my bad. Anyways the ideal hide set up is to have two identical hides. One on the warm and one on the cool side. This is so the snake does not a hide it feels safe in over thermo-regulating. The hides should also be snug, but that can be hard to judge (I ended up buying like 3 sets of hides for my snake lol).

Also as pointed out the UTH should be underneath the tank with a probe on the glass surface to keep temp in check. You do not need heating lights.

This is the thermostat I use, but I know there are others out there. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/brockm20 · 5 pointsr/snakes

Understandable but like everyone else, we cannot emphasize enough on having some sort of thermostat attached to any heat source. The likely hood of it eventually damaging the cage or the animal is very high so I'd suggest one like this because it's a decent entry level one that is reliable. The increased defensiveness, other than a lack of a hide, can be caused by a snake being constantly over heated. On top of that snakes like boas and ball pythons are snakes that should not be misted because excess water on the ground can lead to scale rot. If you see these kind of snakes bathing in their water bowls regularly, it's usually a sign that it's stressed and it's husbandry is not being met. These guys should only have soaks in warm water when you either need to assist in the shedding process or to clean off waste if they've been rolling around in it. But after looking at the new picture the cage should actually be really good as it's completely sealed with a few vent holes to help keep as much humidity in. I'd still suggest getting something to measure it regulary, I'd suggest this as I've found them to be very accurate and measures temp and humidity. You can then adjust humidity by getting a wider water bowl (more surface area for evaporation), placing the bowl closer to the heat source, or blocking vents (but not all of them) to increase humidity and vice versa to lower it. For a permanent hide, since cardboard will be ruined the first it goes to the bathroom, you can either get the custom molded ones or for cheaper solution just get a tub or bin from home depot and just cut an entry hole in it. As long as it's opaque (you can't see trough it) and it's appropriately sized to be a little bigger than the snake it works just fine and is easy to clean.

If you are unsure of any husbandry or even feeding guides (as most people overfeed boas) This is a detailed page over what you're husbandry goals should be and how to properly size and feed your boa buddy. Also always feed frozen thawed feeders.

Boas are naturally very docile and inquisitive with only a few exceptions and if you hit all those recommendations you'll more than likely end of with a great puppy dog tame animal. Hope everything works out.

u/DeletedAllMyAccounts · 5 pointsr/PetMice

Try something like this hooked up to one of these. You can get them from any pet store that stocks supplies for keeping reptiles.

You'll also want some auxiliary probe thermometers because you want to put the thermostat probe between the mat and the cage so that you can ensure the probe is touching the mat and won't get moved, but that will only tell you how hot the mat is getting, not how hot the floor of the cage is getting or how the ambient temp/temp inside a hide is. Then you set the temp on the thermostat so that the temp on the probes looks good. I keep mine at 96f and my probe mounted to the ceiling of my mouse's hide stays at a solid 75f-80f.

I'm glad I have some experience keeping reptiles, because otherwise I would have been completely at a loss as to how to keep my baby mouse warm. The heat in my apartment barely works half the time, and it's not uncommon for the temp to dip down to below 60f.

u/MorbidPharaoh · 5 pointsr/ballpython

Going to sound like a jerk but I feel sometimes it's needed if your going to get a Animal it is your responsibility to learn proper care for that animal...Heating is a important part of your BPs care and if you would have done even the most basic of searches you would have known every heating element needs to be regulated as to protect the animal from dangerous temps...

Turn the heat pad off for now and overnight a thermostat...

If your house is cold bring the temp to 80° until you have the UTH regulated you might be uncomfortable but at least the noodle won't get burned.


Here is a option for now

Hydrofarm MTPRTC Controller Thermostat for Heat Mats Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Jump Start Digital, 9-by-19-1/2-Inch, Black Plastic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5.WCDbEVGC7TH

Or if you have money to spend on a good one buy a herpstat

u/squishybloo · 5 pointsr/pics

While heating rocks should NEVER be used, under-tank heaters are best for snakes that do better with belly heat rather than lamps. A basic thermostat, however, should ALWAYS be used to regulate the temperature. They are worth their weight in gold to avoid vet bills and heartache. Unregulated UTHs can get to 120F, which can and will cause burns!

u/marker_sniffer · 5 pointsr/reptiles

Digital Thermostat

UTH


That's what I run for all my collection. I'll soon breakdown and get flexwatt, but for now, this has worked great. I have this setup on a brazilian rainbow boa, red tail boa, albino red tail boa and three ball pythons.


edit: you could also just add a heat lamp to bring up the ambient temps. The snake only requires a hot spot of around 90, then ambient temps around 80 F is what I do. Though my reptile room is set to 80 F.

u/SmolderingDesigns · 4 pointsr/snakes

This is a JumpStart thermostat. It's a good low end thermostat, which is still sooo much better than nothing. I have one and it's great. Ideally you'll want to upgrade to a Herpstat or VE thermostat as soon as you can afford it though, they're much higher quality.

u/lapagecp · 4 pointsr/snakes

Gromann is correct.

3) I would recommend looking at a plastic enclosure for your adult ball python. Take a look at these.

http://www.boaphileplastics.com/

http://www.animalplastics.com/

http://www.npicages.com/

4)It should never feel "hot" if it feels hot its probably around 100 or more degrees. Any heat source should be controlled by a thermostat. There are many options out there. Here is a super cheap one. Remember you get what you pay for.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1358780717&sr=8-1&keywords=hydrofarm

5) NO NO NO. Couple things. First your BP is going to live in its enclosure. It will only be out supervised. So your BP will never be alone with your Chihuahua. RIGHT? Second. Your average BP is going to stay less than 4lbs. A huge BP might get to 6lbs or maybe a tad more than that. BP can eat large prey but not something that weighs more than it does.

u/BigPattyDee · 4 pointsr/ballpython

That's a thermometer not a thermostat, they are different things, the thermostat will turn the heat pad on and off as needed.

This one works well for me for what I use it for.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-Germination-MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=jump+start+thermostat&qid=1573443067&sr=8-3

u/merlyn923 · 4 pointsr/snakes

Ok I'll go through this.

Starting with your equipment list, a couple things:

  • For your hides, you want small, snug, and optimally identical.

  • Don't get a dial style thermostat. They're crappy. Go for digital - the Hydrofarm JumpStart thermostat is probably the "standard" entry level stat.

  • For cleaners, a quaternary ammonium disinfectant is a very safe and effective option. Read the info on that link to determine if you want to use it, and follow the dilution directions closely. Sometimes they have the more concentrated pink version of that, but I don't see it up right now. It's the same stuff, but you use less per dilution.

  • There is absolutely no reason to waste money on mite spray unless you have reason to believe your snake has mites.

  • For drinking water, just get whatever normal old gallon jug of drinking water your grocery store sells for cheap. I'd probably refrigerate it to keep it from going "stale." There's no reason to spend a much money on this.

  • Get a digital kitchen scale that can go up to at least 1,000 grams. Tracking the weight of your snake is the best way to both feed appropriately and pick up on issues/illness early on.

    To answer some of the questions:

  1. Yes, half-logs are too open. they're fine as additional clutter/cover, but the primary warm and cool hides should have a single entrance and be very snug.

  2. Yes, I am a big advocate of placing the probe between the UTH and the bottom of the enclosure. if you're going with a tub setup, do yourself the favor of getting either heat tape or an Ultratherm heat pad - I just don't trust the ZooMed/Zilla UTHs very much. You can get either one of those from Reptile Basics (RBI). The Ultratherm is probably easier for a first timer.

  3. You should measure the temp on the bottom of the enclosure under the hot hide with the temp gun, and it's fine to leave loose or hot glue to the probe to the bottom there as well. Daily is probably unnecessary once you've established that the temps are stable, which you should preferably do before you get the snake (I'd say have everything set up and running without hitch for a week ahead of time).

  4. You will have to set the stat higher since it's directly regulating the heat source - that should create a stable hot spot of your target temp. For a corn, I'd aim for 83-85F (81F is a bit too low).

  5. Nothing wrong with monthly complete cleanings, but it's probably a bit unnecessary; snakes seem happiest when the enclosure smells a bit like themselves (this is why the first thing they usually do in a newly cleaned cage is poop). I have a lot of animals, but I aim for at least once a quarter for a complete change, unless there's a good reason to do it sooner (snake paints the entire enclosure with feces, or the animal is sick/has mites).

  6. Water bowl should be stable enough to not knock over. Be careful with weight - it can also crush a young animal. Having a wide base is usually sufficient to prevent a tip. Also, keep it on the cool side to keep humidity moderate and avoid condensation.

  7. Don't handle the snake until it has eaten for you twice. Don't try to feed for a week after bringing it home. In total, this means probably about 14 days before you try to handle. You can safely handle a snake 24-48 hours after feeding - smaller snakes are usually pretty much done digesting at 24 hours, larger snakes eating larger food I tend to err towards 2 days.

  8. Feed by weight, not by size. A corn under a year old should be fed roughly every 5 days an item that weighs 10-15% of the animal's body weight. After a year, go down to about 10% weekly, and then beyond that 5-7% every 10 to 14 days for a sub-adult or adult animal.

  9. Yes, elevate the viv with rubber feet to prevent a fire.

    I think that mostly covers it!
u/DiscipleOfRuin · 4 pointsr/snakes

This is a decent quality thermometer hygrometer combo for not too much: https://www.amazon.com/Samshow-Hygrometer-Thermometer-Humidity-Temperature/dp/B01MRV5NTQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1498018123&sr=8-8&keywords=thermometer+hygrometer

The best way to heat a tank is with a UTH PAIRED WITH A THERMOSTAT (sorry, felt the need to emphasize that). Here is a decent quality thermostat: https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498018701&sr=8-2&keywords=reptile+thermostat

There are multiple routes you can go with for a UTH. I personally recommend ReptileBasics Ultratherm Pads, pick the size accordingly: http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-heat-pads

Have the Thermostat probe buried in the substrate directly above the heat mat that will ensure that it doesn't get too hot.

Place the Thermometer probe on the cool side to monitor cool side temps, you can just have this dangling about halfway down the tank.

Edit: fixed the thermostat link

u/Ecstatic_Lobo68 · 4 pointsr/snakes

This little guy is cute! I got my first snake a few months ago and have been having a blast for sure. I would totally recommend getting some fake leaves from the pet store for him to climb and hide under. My snek loves them.

As for the thermostat that this other commenter suggested, I got this one. It does the job well.

Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-Certified Heat Mat Thermostat
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_PQUcm2jAr7Vxb

If you interested in the future, I bought 2 digital thermometers that are amazing and weather proof from Home Depot. They were about $6 and are accurate. I can't find them online atm and I'm on the road. But I'm sure you can find some affordable and accurate therms.

Good luck! HMU if you have any other questions. I'm not a pro for sure, but I'll help if I can.

u/floppyandscaly · 4 pointsr/snakes

I would definitely recommend a corn snake for your first. They are hardier than ball pythons and are typically voracious eaters, whereas BPs are infamous for refusing to feed when they are stressed out (which is remarkably easy to do!). Additionally, a fish tank is not an appropriate home for a BP, as it is incredibly difficult to maintain the proper levels of heat and humidity required for health.


With a corn snake, it would be easy to maintain the required heat with a UTH that covers 1/3 to 1/2 of the bottom (on the outside of the tank and ALWAYS on a thermostat; a cheap option would be Hydrofarm). You're going to want to buy an infrared thermometer to measure the temperature of the bottom of the tank inside your warm hide to calibrate your thermostat temperature. Your baby will be fine in a 20G as long as you have appropriately-sized hides (small enough that when the snake curls up inside, it is filling the hide). I would suggest buying a few fake plants and some branches to fill up some of the extra space so that your snake doesn't really have to be out in the open if it doesn't want to.

u/ZMan941 · 4 pointsr/snakes

A heat pad has no limit. It will continuously put out heat energy and only "stops" when it reaches equilibrium of energy emitted vs energy absorbed by the other bodies.


ZooMed pads have a higher wattage per area than some other pads and are capable of damaging themselves with their own heat. It will get too hot for a snake and it will burn the snake if it is not controlled. ZooMed themselves recommends a thermostat.

 

This thermostat is a basic that gets recommended by this sub quite often. It is a basic unit that uses a simple On/Off method to control the temperature (as opposed to a proportional control), but it does work in my experience with it. Granted, my experience is with a corn snake which is, to my knowledge, less sensitive to temperature fluctuations than the Rainbow Boa you have been asking about.

u/Crotalus · 3 pointsr/herpetology

This guy right here. http://amzn.com/B000NZZG3S

u/OrganicDoge · 3 pointsr/snakes

I have been using this one for my kingsnake for the past few months.

u/Crunchewy · 3 pointsr/leopardgeckos

Heat mat is the way to go for sure, but you MUST also get a thermostat for it. Otherwise it will be too hot. Set the thermostat to keep it at 90°. The heat mat goes under the tank, definitely not in it. The heat mat has a sticky surface and you stick it to the bottom of the tank. There’s very little risk of fire. Ours is on a wood table and has been for years.

Here’s a pretty good thermostat that we use:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NZZG3S

Make sure the temperature sensor is against the floor of your substrate (I recommend paper towels for the substrate. Cheap and easy) so it reads more accurately. To be extra safe get a laser thermometer to read the temp on the surface of the tank. This one is good and inexpensive:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00837ZGRY

Use it to verify that the surface temperature is about 90°

u/musingtuesday · 3 pointsr/leopardgeckos

Assuming you have an UTH, purchase a thermostat to control the temp output. I found mine on amazon. I use something along the lines of this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NZZG3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1417937081&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

If you're using a bulb, you can try and move it farther from the tank to disperse the heat a bit, but I'm guessing you have an under tank heater from the way you describe your problem. Hope this helps!

u/fleshexe · 3 pointsr/leopardgeckos

Hook up your UTH to a thermostat, I recommend this one for a cheap solution while saving up for a Herpstat or similar. This will prevent accidental burns. I would also put in a moist hide.

u/Compmau5 · 3 pointsr/snakes

Hi I'm glad to give some advice!
I started out too with a 30 gallon because I thought I was going to get a ball python but the cutie hognose face won me over.

I got mine when he was five months old and tried him in a 30 gallon tank. I wouldn't recommend it because he was indeed way too stressed with the size of the tank. I had plenty of hides and foliage to make the tank seem smaller but I don't think it helped.
I ended up moving him into a cheap 20 gallon from a petstore. It was only 60$ and I think he's much happier with the space.

As for the aspen and the temperature, I would keep an inch if hes still under a year old. It's just enough to keep him hidden and secure while being able to find him if you need to. For the headpad you absolutely need to connect a thermometer to it. I use this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You place the head senor on the glass that the UTH is stuck to. When the glass gets to the desired temperature the thermometer turns off to keep the snake from hurting itself.

u/Dark1sniper · 3 pointsr/reptiles

I use the Jump Start thermostat. Hovers around $25-$35 in the US.

I'm not a snake guy so I'm not sure if it's needed for a corn snake, but are you going to use a substrate/bedding or are you just going to use paper towels?

u/rollapoid · 3 pointsr/ballpython

Reposting the famous u/ _ataraxia info:

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

  • the basics and then some
  • common problems
  • feeding problems
  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. They have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
u/SnoopleNoodle · 3 pointsr/snakes

When to get a snake: A lot of breeders won't ship when it's too cold (I think close to or below freezing) and we're definitely getting in that range, so there's going to need to be a warm gap at some point or you'll need to wait. Also shipping is like $50+ for a live animal and you probably won't get to hold the snake beforehand so I would wait till your next reptile show or find someone reputable nearby. Other than shipping, I don't think there are other health concerns. Just realize snakes sometimes go off feed for the winter.

What Age of Snake: Generally, reputable breeders won't sell a snake until it has eaten a few times and shed. Babies are more sensitive than adults (true for pretty much any animal), but not to the point where you should be afraid to get one. Since breeding season was a while ago though, I think you'd have a harder time getting a hatchling now. Fall would have been a better time.

Enclosure Sizing, Growth, and Selection: I think you mean 20 gallons? Personally I would go for a 40 gal for an adult. Bigger is better as long as you don't have scary wide open spaces. At 40 gal you shouldn't have to upgrade again. If you get a juvenile, I would probably get 2 tanks: the adult one and a smaller one just because it's kind of a pain to maintain such a big tank for such a tiny snake and once you upgrade, you have a spare cage for your next snake. ;)

Heating & Temperature Control: I personally put my probe on the UTH outside the tank and set a relative temperature. I temp gunned the inside of the tank above the UTH a couple times over the next couple days including the highest and lowest temperatures to make sure it was good. Corn snakes burrow. Mine makes tunnels everywhere and pushes all the substrate out of her hides. Snakes moving or sitting on probes can throw off the reading and cause your heat source to get hotter than it should, which I didn't want to have to worry about, though I know some people have been able to put their probes inside the tank without problems. Whatever you do, don't use tape inside the tank. The best thermostats are pretty pricey, but something like this or like what _ataraxia has on her list will work just fine.

You're going to need the cool side of the tank to be around 75. It'll be helpful to have another thermometer keeping track of that too.

u/SrGoyim · 3 pointsr/snakes

The heating pad goes under the tub. Expect it to reach 120+ degrees without a stat. It wont melt your tub or immediately kill your snake, but be aware that any temp above 105 degrees is dangerous to a snake. Any basic on/off stat is okay for a heating mat (it'll always stay within 1-3 degrees of target temp), the expensive ones are just to prolong the life of ceramic bulbs & to dim visible light bulbs etc. I recommend getting any ASAP. But if given the choice, ones with displays such as http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ are less fuss than e.g. zoomed/zilla ones which just have a knob & require manual alterations & calibration with a secondary digital thermometer. There needs to be a small air gap between the tub and mat. Without an air gap, and especially combined with no stat, your mat is a high risk fire hazard and likely to melt (especially if it's one of the cheap unbranded chinese ebay ones). An air gap can be achieved by simply elevating the tub corners with some small objects, or blutac etc to act as feet. The mat can just be placed directly on the desk surface. It is usually recommended to rest it on polystyrene as it gives off heat in both directions, and polystyrene below it prevents heat leakage downwards. However, since you currently have no stat this is probably a good thing.

u/ammolite · 3 pointsr/snakes

I believe Hydrofarm digital thermostats are considered good. The sell for a little over $30 online, and are probably a bit more at garden supply store.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/

Any digital thermometers sold for heat mats should work, just be sure to read reviews to see if anyone's had any serious problems with the thermostat running too warm/cool.

u/Jacqyn · 3 pointsr/snakes

This post sounds like you do not have the heat source on a thermostat which is a huge no-no. If this is true please look into a HerpStat or Vivarium Electronics thermostat. In the mean time I'd pick up one of these.

u/dianechoksondik · 3 pointsr/leopardgeckos

Okay. You don’t need any lights, I was just making sure you didn’t have any. Temp on the warm side should stay around 90 F. If you don’t have a thermostat for your uth, you need to get one. I have this one: (https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S). You should also get a temp gun.

As far as hides go, you should have at least 3, one hot, one cool, and a moist hide. Even if they aren’t shedding, it’s good to keep one out at all times. Make sure he isn’t on loose substrate, I prefer tile or paper towel. And you should keep a pure calcium supplement out at all times. Just put some in a milk cap.

Here is my set up: https://imgur.com/a/lQAeCac

It’s very plain and I’m actually going to be buying some more stuff to put in soon, but it can give you an idea of the basic necessities.

u/jjhill001 · 3 pointsr/snakes

I like your setup. Good on you for getting set up and checking with other keepers before actually getting the snake. A lot of people don't do this and it can cause people to get off on the right foot.

For starters, the analog thermometers have a reputation for being inaccurate, sometimes as bad as +/- 10-20 degrees Fahrenheit. The digital ones are much more accurate and are only a few dollars more than the analog ones. The issues raised in other comments about the tape sticking to the skin of a snake is true and even though its not likely at all, for a small snake like the one you're keeping in this tank it would likely be a death sentence not worth the risk in my opinion.

I see you have a light on the tank. Is this an incandescent heat bulb? While snakes can be heated this way, it is very difficult to regulate properly. Reading through the other comments I agree with you that it looks great, however I would switch to one of the Exo Terra or Zoomed 5.0 UVB bulbs for light. The snake doesn't need the UVB light and the bulbs are quite expensive but I find that the particular spectrum these bulbs provide offers the best view of the snake and it's natural colors due to it simulating sun light. As a bonus they don't produce any meaningful heat.

Now, for heating a cage this size an under tank heater is absolutely the best way to get heat for a snake. However, the ones at big box stores stick to the tanks and while they are "slightly" more efficient this way they really kind of lose value from not being able to be moved and are quite expensive. I suggest using the ultratherm from Reptile Basics. They have a much more variety of sizes, are reusable and even if a thermostat fails don't get nearly as hot as the ones at petsmart, petco whatever.

Link for heat pads:

http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-heat-pads

For your tank, depending on where you live and your house temp I would recommend the 6x11 or 11x11 version. If your house is heavily air conditioned I would get the bigger one.

Now onto the regulation, I don't know if you have one or not but a thermostat (I know it sounds like a bit much) is an absolute life saver that helps prevent tons of health issues in snakes and quite frankly will just make your life a lot easier and in the end actually will save electricity.

Personally I use the one from big apple herp, its more expensive than some, less expensive then some. It's a bit minimalist with it's analog dial but it was the first one I used and they have worked for me so I'm not gonna fix it if it isn't broken.

http://www.bigappleherp.com/BAH-1000-Thermostat?sc=2&category=50513

A budget thermostat that some people like is the hydrofarm. I think that a lot of products that get made for reptiles are marked up kind of ridiculously and while there are plenty of cases where one could skip the pet store price and use some random thing, this is not the case. If my cages ever cause a house fire I want to be able to tell the insurance company that I was using a thermostat made for reptiles so they can go sue them instead of me.

https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500440809&sr=8-2&keywords=thermostat+with+probe

Either way with a corn snake your gonna want to get the thermostat probe set as close to the glass as possible (some people will put the probe directly on the heat pad between it and the glass because that way it can't get wet which can throw it off sometimes) this is up to you. Either way, you want the warm end thermometer to read in the 85-87 F range right on the glass over the heat pad and the cool end can be essentially whatever at long as it doesn't go below 70 during the day time. A few degree drop at night is fine.

The thermometer probe should be placed in a similar place as the thermostat probe but if your thermostat probe ends up on the outside as some do make sure the thermometer probe is inside the tank.

Once you have that squared away a few other tips.

You're using the half log hides, this isn't necessarily the worst thing but they aren't as snug as some others available (its hard to find one that is for snakes the size of a baby corn snake). A big contributor to feeding problems in younger snakes is a lack of security. One way to increase the overall security feeling of the tank is to buy plain black aquarium background and stick it on the back and sides of the tank. It blocks visuals on 3/4ths of the walls of the terrarium and also looks great and highlights the colors of your snake when it decides to come out which tends to happen a bit more with the added security.

Other than those recommendations I think you'll be good to go. If you have any questions or anything hit me up in PM or on this thread and I can direct you in the right direction.

u/Rocklobster5 · 3 pointsr/snakes

Yeah unfortunately that's not the case :( I just got this one and I am pleased with it, makes it very easy to know your snake won't be hurt. If your snake is burnt it doesn't look to severe. I would order a thermostat pronto and wait till he sheds to see if the pink goes away.

u/White_Charizard · 3 pointsr/geckos

Yeah, those Zilla kits all are pretty much terrible. You're better off not using a kit at all actually, since they are way overpriced compared to buying/making the things you need individually.


Definitely go for the 20 gallon long tank. That size tank is actually ideal for a single adult leopard gecko. Instead of the lights, you'll want to heat the tank with an under tank heater under one side that is controlled with a thermostat. That's not optional, since a UTH can get very hot if it isn't controlled. I use the Hydrofarm thermostat, and recommend it. It certainly isn't the best out there, but it does its job and you can't beat the price. Be sure to have a digital thermometer that can read the actual surface of your gecko's substrate, not the little ones that stick on the glass. A thermometer with a probe alongside an infrared temp gun works wonders.

I'd personally also ditch the reptile carpet for tile as well, since my guy kept snagging his toes and jaws on the carpet and the tile is a breeze to clean, but if yours does fine with the carpet it should work fine, just don't use sand. Be sure to have three hides: one on the cool end of the tank, one on the warm end, and a humid one. Exo Terra is my personal favorite for hides, but store brand ones work fine, or you could even make your own.


I can't really say how old your gecko is without pictures, but if you got it from a pet store it's probably pretty young. Be sure you dust its food with calcium and vitamins. Vitamin D3 is particularly important. Repashy Calcium Plus is great, since it's an all-in-one powder, but I know alternating Repti-Cal and Reptivite works as well.


Crickets are a great thing for it to eat actually, better than mealworms. However, variety is always nice, but I don't have a lot of tips on getting a gecko to try new foods since mine isn't picky. Dubia roaches, if you can get over the ick factor, make an even better feeder than crickets, and phoenix worms and Calci-Worms are also great options. I'd stick to feeding your gecko as much as it can eat in a night if it's a baby. You do need to catch and remove any crickets that aren't eaten in 15-30 minutes. I always try to corner them and grab them one at a time, even if that can take a while.

Also, be sure you're gutloading crickets before feeding them as well. Basically, feed them nutritious food before feeding them to your gecko. I recommend either Bug Burger or Cricket Crack, but there are a lot of options out there. Toss in some bits of carrot, potatoes, greens, or fruit as well, or use some gel polymer to keep them hydrated.


Sorry for the massive wall of text, but hopefully this helps! Good luck with your little buddy!

u/mandavampanda · 3 pointsr/reptiles

Just because they've been together doesn't mean they really like being together. Reptiles are generally solitary and are happiest when they have their own space. You could put the geckos in their own sterilite tote bins and stack them on top of each other in a rack to save space.

I've been using the Intellitemp heat mats from Big Apple Herp. A lot of people would say they're cheap and don't like BAH, but at least the heatpads have been working for me. I have 6 of them. I use the 14x8inch (20 watt) heat mat for my 20g long aquariums. They're $25 each, sometimes they go on sale. One important thing you need for heatmats is a thermostat to control the temperature. You want to pick up a digital thermostat. If you must get a cheap one, you can go for a Hydrofarm, but know that it works by turning the power on and off to the heat pad in order to achieve the desired temperature, usually you get a temperature swing of about 5 degrees F or so. On/off thermostats may fail in the on position, meaning the heat pad won't shut off when it gets to the desired temperature and you run the risk of burns. There are better thermostats on the markets such as Vivarium Electronics and Herpstats. These thermostats are more expensive, but they are more accurate, have more safety features and will not fail in the on position. They work by controlling how much power is being provided to the heat mat, so the mat is constantly running at a set temperature. They will likely last much longer than a cheaper thermostat will. I got a cheap thermostat at first, then upgraded to a Herpstat before too long, so it sometimes makes sense to just go for the better one right away.

u/zack822 · 3 pointsr/ballpython

First off congrats on making things a bit better for your ball, do you have a thermometer or thermostat? if you dont have a thermostat please get one asap if i may make a recommendation https://smile.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473706224&sr=8-2&keywords=reptile+thermostat

if theres any other questions please feel free to ask. i have a decently large collection of healthy balls and would be more then happy to answer questions no matter how small or large.

u/iwanttodownvotetoo · 3 pointsr/ballpython

You do not need a timer for the UTH. You need a thermostat to control it. You can get an inexpensive one like the [Hydrofarm] (http://smile.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S?ie=UTF8&sa-no-redirect=1) or go for a nicer one like a [Herpstat] (http://www.spyderrobotics.com/) but either way that cage needs a thermostat like NOW because that snake looks burned to me.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 3 pointsr/ballpython

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Canada|amazon.ca|




This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/xj2379 · 3 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I use a CHE on a thermostat to keep the warm side temperature at ~70°F. During the day when the basking lamp is on the thermostat turns off the CHE because it's much warmer and at night it kicks back on as the temperature drops.

Thermostat links:
I use this one
This one is recommended on most reptile subs
Top of the line

CHE:
Link

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/ballpython

First and foremost it MUST be on a thermostat. Never provide a heat source unregulated.

You cheapest option would be one of the hydroponic digital thermostats available.

I glanced at your quick post history and it looks like you are from Canada but jumpstart thermostats are available on amazon.ca. These are the go to thermostats. You stick the probe between the heat mat and the tub and use a temp gun or thermometer to get the temp right inside the tub.

As far as UTH go, there are a lot of options but a zoo med like heat mat will work. Ultratherm or heat tape is best but those can be a challenge to get in Canada.

1/3 the coverage of the tub is all you need to provide belly heat. Up to 1/2 will do but not more than that. Size dictates more than wattage for UTH.

Cornel's World is your best option for anything and everything enclosure wise so if you plan ever to upscale to PVC or just get better options, try them out

https://www.cornelsworld.com/

They can custom make you heat tape and assemble it for you

https://shop.cornelsworld.com/product-category/heating/

https://www.amazon.ca/Jump-Start-MTPRTC-ETL-certified-germination/dp/B000NZZG3S

u/Ruby-ish · 3 pointsr/snakes

I don't recommend the ones with them built in. Do you have a glass tank? When I had glass tanks I used an appropriately sized Zoomed Reptitherm heat mat, and used this thermostat from amazon. it's cheap and does the job well enough. I still use that one for my quarantine enclosure and I've had no issue with it.

If you want to get the best thermostat you can, spyder Robotics makes really nice ones. I use a Herpstat 2 for my ball pythons and it's fantastic, very safe and reliable.

u/Kr_Treefrog2 · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Sure. I've used Hydrofarm thermostats for four years so far and have been very happy with them. You plug the thermostat into the outlet and then the heater into the thermostat. A small probe sits in the water and keeps track of the temperature. If the temperature is at or below the set point, power remains on. If the temperature goes above the set point, the thermostat cuts power to the heater. It also has a digital temperature display so it's very easy to check now and then.

u/TribalMethods · 2 pointsr/snakes

That panel will work perfectly fine for maintaining the ambient Temps. However since it will take up most of the roof, and therefor heats most of the floor... Thermostat failure would be certain death for the snake. No thermostat is 100% reliable!

My advice would be to use two thermostats for the panel.

It works like so:

Mount both thermostat probes in the same location (about half-way down the wall closest to the RHP,) with pro-strength high-heat hot glue. Or zip ties.

Plug the main thermostats power into the second thermostat. Set the main thermostat to 80F. Set the secondary to 85F.

This way if the first thermostat fails and stays on permanently, the second thermostat will still work and never let the cage get to deadly temperatures.

Hygrofarm makes cheap reliable thermostats if you need one. They are currently $28 each. Here is the link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NZZG3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478972426&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=hydrofarm

Also, you could upgrade to a 3-4 ft boa master and still use the same panel. I don't buy that snakes don't do good in bigger enclosures. I've only seen stress from too small of an enclosure and owned hundreds of snakes.

u/Cydrex_ · 2 pointsr/snakes

My UTH is regulated by a thermostat. But the thermostat I'm using does not adjust based off the temperature in the tank. I have to manually adjust it. I'm planning on buying one with a probe that regulates the temperature tomorrow.
Would you recommend either of these?

Number 1

Number 2

Thanks for your help

u/kinsmate · 2 pointsr/ballpython

I'm sure you're gonna get lots of in-depth information from people more knowledgeable than me, but here's a quick write up!
I would recommend moving her tank if she is in the sunlight during the day, but being in a bright room is fine. UTH is necessary! A thermostat that it is plugs into is too. Like this one. BPs (and other snakes?) need belly heat. I have a bulb to help raise the ambient temperature, but it dries out the tank quickly.

Adult BPs can have about 40 gallon tanks if you're getting that kind of enclosure, but I've heard they're also fine in the 20L. Tubs are also an option, but not one I know a lot about. They let out humidity easily but it is manageable. I got my tank during the dollar per gallon sale at Petco (June or July I think). Don't feed your snake in a separate enclosure! Handling before and after eating is stressful to them.

Skipping stuff I'm not confident on giving any advice on-
I have a digital thermometer/hygrometer like this one, and it is a must. BPs need around 65-70% humidity during shed, and that makes it much easier to monitor. With these mesh-top tanks, humidity can be difficult to control, but with regular misting with a spray bottle, plexiglas/tin foil (I've also heard a damp towel works) covering part of the top it's manageable. You can also add moist moss if you need to.

Good luck with your new pet!

u/theoremofgoats · 2 pointsr/snakes

Yup! You can find thermostats you can set at the exactly temperature you need, and for ball pythons that would be around 90 degrees. These are pretty basic, but they definitely get the job done.

u/Roque716 · 2 pointsr/snakes

I really like the zoo med under tank heaters. Make sure you get a temp controller on it as well so it doesn’t get too hot. Something like this, Jump Start MTPRTC Digital Controller Thermostat For Heat Mats, Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gNe6AbX9EEQ93

u/Luna_Parvulus · 2 pointsr/Sneks

Hi! A little late to the party, but something else to keep in mind that I did not see mentioned is that you will definitely want a thermostat (not just a thermometer) to regulate the heat from your heat pad and/or Ceramic Heating Element. You will probably want one for each heat element, although CHEs can be controlled with dimmer switches as well I believe.

A thermostat lets you regulate the output of a heat pad or CHE. This is important because without regulation, it is possible for either of them to overheat beyond typical heating abilities. This could lead to extreme temperatures in your tank that could burn the snake or even cause neurological damage if it's hot enough.

I'm taking my list of suggestions from other users who post around snek subreddits as I am not yet a snek owner myself :(.

Cheap options are Jump Start thermostats, although they do not have safety features that will shut down the heating element if the thermostat fails. Another option that's in the same price range but a bit safer is an Inkbird thermostat. If you wanna splurge and get a very high quality thermostat for your little buddy, you can go for a Spyder Robotics thermostat.

Also, not necessarily required but useful and fun: an Infrared Thermometer

u/pcaedus · 2 pointsr/leopardgeckos

Definitely don't want her anywhere near sand, like all of us here have said. Sand can't pass through leos so once it's in there it's not coming out the poop chute, it's just gonna keep accumulating leading to death.

Seems to me you got one of those starter reptile kits from pet chain stores (petco, petsmart etc). The stuff that comes with it usually is not what you want for your reptile. Geckos can see red light so do not use it during night time - you want to simulate day/night cycles for your leo. Something like a UVB 2.0 bulb will do, I have mine turned on automatically at 7am and turns off at 7pm for a day/night cycle.

Heating pads and a controller (example) are your bread and butter. Leos need 90-95 belly heat to digest their food (they don't bask, so lamps aren't needed - only day/night cycles matter). The controller is required to keep a stable 90-95 temperature for your leo to lay on since heating pads reach upwards of 150f that burns the poor thing if left unregulated via a controller.

u/Krispyz · 2 pointsr/snakes

A thermostat isn't just a temperature reader. It regulates the temperature of the heat pad. This is the one I use. The heat mat plugs into it and it has a probe to read the temp. So the thermostat knows if the heat mat is getting too hot and shuts it off for a while (or too cold and turns it on). This is very important for keeping the heat pad from getting too hot when you can't watch it!

Another bit of advice, if you get a thermostat... tape the probe down on the bottom of the tank (I have mine taped to the glass right above the heat pad). You want it to be reading the warmest spot the snake could be touching (so on the glass/plastic under the substrate) and you don't want it to get dislodged!

u/livthedragon · 2 pointsr/snakes

> Also, what are the best indicators of stress? I'm so nervous, I want him to be comfy!
>

I think you are confusing a thermostat and a thermometer. You will need both. You will plug your under tank heater into a thermostat and it will ensure the warm side of your tank is the proper temperature (between 88-92F). You may need a regulated UTH for the cool side of your tank as well (80-82F). Here is an inexpensive option. A probed themometer (such as this) is used to measure the temperate and make sure the thermostat is doing its job. It is important to get a thermometer with a probe that you can put directly under the substrate; there is no point measuring the temperature on the glass, where your snake doesn't live!

If they are tightly coiled or striking at you, they will probably be happier in their house :)

Another thing: you will want 2 similar hides. One for the warm end of the tank and one for the cool end.

u/arcticrobot · 2 pointsr/reptiles

If you need a thermostat with mist control capability your best bet is Spyder Robotics Herpstat 2.

I am not a crestie keeper, so may be very wrong here, but why don't you add an UTH mat with some simple thermostat like this and set it for mid temp appropriate for your crestie?

It will be affecting your humidity, but you can increase your substrate and add few more inches of soil. That will both be keeping humidity and temperature in better check.

u/auraria · 2 pointsr/snakes

Oh boy, seems like after wanting a Boa for years you didn't really do any research.

Babies are more than 7 inches. generally a foot+ long. These animals can grow up to 7+ feet and live 25+ years.

Have you ever had a baby snake before? Do you know how to establish a baby ? Do you have the appropriate size prey and know the feeding schedules/sizes for boas?

Substrate Just use paper towel for now, save your money and buy the following items.

Heat pad AND a thermostat. This is cheap as fuck and there's no excuse not to use it. It will be fine for the time being. Set it to 90 degrees with the probe on top of the heat pad under the tank.

So like this: Heat pad ===> Probe for thermostat ===>bottom of the tank

https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504326583&sr=8-2&keywords=hydrofarm

Since this is an aquarium take a towel/wash cloth and cover most of the screen to help trap heat and humidity in.

Make sure the little gal has at least 1 hide.

Secure the aquarium top with straps or quality locks to prevent escaping.

And read every care sheet you can find, and please if you have any questions or issues feel free to PM me or Shadowchan.

Also please research an animal before you buy one, regardless if it's a reptile, cat, fish, or even hampster.

u/Swyse · 2 pointsr/snakes

This is the thermostat /u/MotherCybele is referring to I believe. I don't have personal experience with it, but its very popular. 4.5 stars with 1726 reviews.

u/AwkwardMunchkin · 2 pointsr/ballpython

u/_ataraxia has a lot of good information. I've stolen their list of links and information for you to go through, but all the credit for this belongs to them. (Also I don't know how to embed links into the comments since I'm a reddit noob so please excuse the messiness)

the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations in case you need to get any supplies yourself.

http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding

spyder robotics (http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1) makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat.

heat tape (http://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-tape) or ultratherm heat pads (http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-heat-pads) are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options.

a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer (https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00891A3-Outdoor-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001BO8CUE/) allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].

an infrared thermometer (https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/) allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.

these hide boxes (http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes) are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

edit: Just fixed some formatting to make it easier to read.

u/sickly_snake · 2 pointsr/snakes

This is the thermostat merlyn is talking about. I also recommend it.

u/soerl · 2 pointsr/snakes

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S This is the cheapest most reliable thermostat. In the meantime, elevate the tank away from the heat pad until it no longer is super hot to the touch. If it's warm to the touch, it should be okay, but never hot. Good luck!

u/SharkBait1992 · 2 pointsr/reptiles

I would suggest a thermostat you just plug your mat into it put the probe in the tank above the heat mat and set the temperature

u/StoicSalamander · 2 pointsr/ballpython

Amazon sells a thermostat by Hydrofarm that I use, it works great and is about $30 :)

u/ruggles_bottombush · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I wouldn't put too much stock into anything you read on yahoo answers. I've used CHEs for a number of years without issue. Depending on the wattage, I've measured over 500 degrees on the surface of the CHE but ceramics can withstand extremely high temperatures. A defective CHE with a bubble in the material could easily explode and I'm sure it happens but it seems rare. If you are concerned, there are very reliable and affordable thermostats available online. Just make sure you are using a light fixture with a ceramic socket so it can withstand the heat of the CHE. These are the fixtures and thermostats I've used with CHEs and UTHs.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Wire-Cage-Clamp/dp/B0002DIWVO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536344685&sr=8-3&keywords=wire+clamp+lamp

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO6N0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

u/think_up · 2 pointsr/leopardgeckos

Assuming your tank dimensions are 48 1/4 x 12 3/4 x 16 7/8 (L x W x H), you’ll be one that is as close to 16 x 12 as possible.

This Fluker’s brand is $26 and 17 x 11:
Fluker's Heat Mat for Reptiles and Small Animals, Large (17 x 11 Inches, 20 watt) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00164PW9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JQHQBb6SYFDG4

This one is a bit cheaper at $22 and 20 x 8:
Zilla Reptile Terrarium Heat Mats, Large, 24 Watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z5O9IW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kPHQBbKV4TKVP

Also, don’t forget a regulator so you don’t overcook your Leo! They are absolutely necessary in my opinion. This is the one I have personally:
Jump Start MTPRTC Digital Controller Thermostat For Heat Mats, Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_gMvIYsOQnXKH1


These are not affiliate links; I’m not being paid. We also have an amazing guide pinned to the top of this subreddit that you should check to make sure you’re not missing anything.

u/igaveyouscurvy · 2 pointsr/ballpython

Well it sounds like you're doing most everything right!

I'm not sure how much you've looked into thermostats but I'm currently using an Inkbird thermostat and a Hydrofarm and I like both of them! There's also the more reptile friendly ones like herpstat but your price range becomes $80+

Again, I'd recommend going with paper towel for his setup and possibly unplugging that unregulated heatpad... but I'm no expert! I'd also suggest leaving him alone for at least a week now that he's home beyond giving him water and checking to see if he's passed anything!

Thanks for being receptive to advice :) I'm super happy to help you can PM me if you need anything else! Also, Mojave isn't a recessive trait it's an incomplete or co-dominant trait. There's honestly so much to learn about morphs, literally thousands of combos!

u/Diddleyfiddler · 2 pointsr/leopardgeckos

It sounds like 73F is your AIR temp, which is indeed too low for the hot side. We should address the FLOOR temp too but I'll get to that.
If you'd like something to provide heat but not visible light you could get a ceramic bulb. They JUST make heat, but you'll want to get something dimmable because you won't want your cage actually getting too hot. When I was doing my research before I bought my leo I remember 85F being the maximum air temp you want your hot side to be, so I keep mine at or under that. I personally keep my red heat bulb on at all times at the same level, so it naturally dips at night and during the day reaches peak air temps around 83 or so.
This is a ceramic heat bulb that might work: http://www.joshsfrogs.com/zilla-ceramic-heat-emitter-50-watt.html
Pair it with a dimmable fixture like flukers, here: http://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC
It's extremely convenient to be able to control the temperatures with that dimmer :) So you can use a bulb like that (ceramic) to heat your leo without the light. If you'd like a light for studying you can just use a lamp of any kind (a house lamp). It won't mess up your leos schedule, I don't believe. Especially since you'll turn it off and go to sleep for 5+ hours (sometimes less, I'm in college too) and let the room be in total darkness. I talked to someone who owned multiple crested geckos (which are nocturnal, not crepsecular, but still applies) and had them all in his dining room where he did work from home, sometimes until 1 or 2AM, and had his room lights on. it didn't bother them and he's been doing that for a long time. So based off of that I don't think you should worry. From my own experience with my leo, Noodles really loves when the room light is OFF (and it's completely dark in here excluding our computer screens and his incandescent heat bulb's red glow) but only when it's mealtime or playtime. He's not always in the mood. We keep our room lights on most nights and it's not that different from when we keep them off, which is nice.
Anyway tldr for your air heating problem I suggest a ceramic heat emitter bulb paired with some kind of dimmable lamp fixture like the Flukers I linked to provide the correct hot-side air temps while also not letting off any light.
For your lighting problem I think using a lamp in the room over your study area will be fine, or even just keeping the room light on. I don't think it's a huge deal based on others experiences as well as my own.
 
Now onto the floor temp/air temp problem. It sounds like you don't have anything to actually monitor the floor temp, which is more important than advertised on care sheets. You really need a temperature gun. You can get one easily for $20 on amazon, like where we got ours. http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B0053Y6IPE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459399701&sr=8-1&keywords=temperature+gun+reptile
The temperature gun will probably tell you that your hot side's floor temperatures are WAY higher than they need to be. This is what happened to us. Somehow I didn't know that the heat mat would reach temps higher than I wanted, why would it right (??)? Got the radar gun just because, (not believing I'd actually need it) and woopdeedoo 105+F floor temps on the hot side. 13F higher than what it was supposed to be! So we rushed and bought a thermostat immediately (on amazon they're half the price than at petco). If I were in your position I'd buy a thermostat as soon as I could, paired with a temp gun. http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459399998&sr=8-2&keywords=thermostat+reptile
That's a really highly rated thermostat on there :) What you do with it is this: you'll plug the thermostat into your heat mat (or the heat mat into the thermostat, I can't remember which), then place the probe that comes with it (a long cable with a little doodad at the end) in the cage as close as you can to the dry hide. Here's a pic of how I did mine: http://i.imgur.com/o1vyB0g.jpg Set the temperature on your thermostat to maybe 85F or something and in an hour or so measure the floor temperature with your radar gun. 92F is the optimal floor temperature right underneath the dry hide, so aim for that. Play around with it and get it just right. Be sure to check on the floor temps every once in a while to make sure everything's still working.

My apologies for this coming out as such a novel, and all the links (some don't like getting spammed but I like them for reference). If you already know all about the thermostat/temp gun stuff then I'm sorry haha! it's an easy fix, probably easier than replacing that heat mat (if it really is only producing 73F floor temps). P.S. regarding your gecko's eating situation- they're probably stressed and won't eat for a little bit. It's okay! They'll get hungry soon and will eat normally. My leo has been doing this stupid thing where he'll eat half of his normal dinner and then act like he's not interested anymore (just licking the worms and turning away), so I wait a halfhour and try again. Usually he'll eat some more after that, but then again he hasn't just changed locations and such. :) Good luck!

u/andleer · 2 pointsr/snakes

You need a thermostat. Place the probe between the map and the bottom of the tank. All below the tank. Inexpensive thermostats:

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/

https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/

u/skittlekitteh · 2 pointsr/snakes

Here's u/ataraxia's classic link dump I found on a other post. Although the informstion is written for bps (most common snake people have trouble with it seems- mostly due to the humedity) but the suggestions could definitely help you for the humedity aspect needed for your boa.


You should definitely read it through.

i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

  • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
  • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
  • http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
u/pixiepurls · 2 pointsr/geckos

I just got a new gecko 2 weeks ago and I would say if you have the space then get a 20 gallon. The 10 gallon is hard to decorate easily, its pretty squished. I think my leopard gecko is fine in the 10 gallon but I wish I had more room to play with the setup.

So here is what I have as a new setup:

10 Gallon tank kit that came with a cheap lamp for the top because I wanted that cheap lamp for nighttime blue/red bulb viewing. It also came with a SCREEN top to keep crickets in and kids out.


This amazing thing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It reads the surface temperature of the bottom and actually adjusts it so I don't have to do anything. It keeps the bottom at the 90 degrees I have it set too with the heat coming from the under pad.

This pad ($5 cheaper then the same size at big box stores)
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm®-Under-Heater/dp/B0002AQCKA/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1413771386&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=under+heating+pad

I use newspaper on the bottom of the tank. I bought some expensive washable carpet but she seems to think its pretty weird and I am not sure she likes it. Newspaper is cheap, or you can use paper towels, which is also cheap.

I took a plastic disposable food dish from the grocery store and left the top on but cut a hole in the side of it and then covered the rough bits with pretty masking tape. I put a wet/damp paper towel in there and it is the wet hide.

I have used cardboard boxes as hides but wound up purchasing a pretty one at a big box store, without a bottom so I can keep stuff clean. I use water bottle caps for water and calcium. Buy some calcium with D3.. cheaper on amazon or get from big box store.

small crickets and small meal worms from petsm$art, I ask for small because I have a baby gecko.

PS sand is bad for baby gecko's if they accidentally ingest it, and the internets pretty much hate sand and does not recommend it.

u/bekindrewind · 2 pointsr/snakes

"I'm confused about when heat Mats gets too hot. What do I do. Do I turn off the heat mat off and wait for it cool down then turn it back?"

Actually, that is exactly what a thermostat does for you. (Well, a simple on/off one anyway, which is going to be the most economical and will work just fine for a heat mat.) You cannot, realistically, stand by the cage 24/7 and turn the mat on and off. You'd have to do it every 5-10 minutes, around the clock. With a thermostat, you won't have to worry the risks associated with overheating - such as, your tank glass cracking (if you are using a glass tank), melting of plastic (if you are using a plastic bin enclosure), severe burns to your snake which could possibly kill it, and even fires.

Here is a link to a decent entry-level thermostat that many people have had good luck with. If you have questions about how to set it up, where to place the probe etc. feel free to ask here and people will be happy to help you. I would also suggest that you do not get one of those sticky-back heat mats from the pet store. They do work in a pinch but something like an ultratherm can be reused and is a lot safer. Remember, for ANY heating source (even ones with failsafes like the ultratherm or an RHP) ALWAYS use a thermostat.

u/JustinBowers · 2 pointsr/shrooms

Jump Start MTPRTC Digital Controller Thermostat For Heat Mats, Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eVg0BbNWGNP55


Hydrofarm MT10008 Seedling Heat Mat, 20" x 20" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E3DDP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RVg0BbQM0J05H

u/Katritern · 2 pointsr/leopardgeckos

I wouldn't worry about the eating at all! Leos take a while to settle in and get used to their new surroundings and my girl waited about a week before she was ready to eat. Your gecko is just busy getting used to its new environment and I wouldn't be concerned unless it goes on for a few weeks or more.

As for the heating mat, if you don't already have one, my recommendation would be to purchase a thermostat for it that can directly regulate the temperature. Amazon has several good options. I use this one and haven't had any issues with it but there are plenty of other cheaper options.

Edit: I'm not sure what temperature gauge you're using now, but chances are you'll get much more accurate readings with the laser heat gun and be able to tell exactly what your floor temps are, which will tell you if you actually are having an issue with the mat heating the cool side or if your readings are just weird.

u/canis-latrans · 2 pointsr/CrestedGecko

They do best in 70-80° temperatures, so take care not to let it get too hot. Ceramic heat emitters are nice if you don't want light. Alternatively, a heat mat or flexwatt heat tape attached to the side of the enclosure are options. You could also consider getting a small space heater to raise the ambient temperature just in the room your crestie is in.

Whatever heat implement you go with, make sure you also get a thermostat, not just a thermometer. This will sit between your heater and the outlet and serve as a safety shut off in case something malfunctions and prevent it from overheating. The [Hydrofarm] (https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S) brand is pretty well recommended and a decent inexpensive option. There are some quality reptile specific brands like Herpstat, but they are also pretty pricey and probably not worth it if you only have one tank to control the heat for.

u/P3N3LOP33P · 2 pointsr/snakes

If you're keen on doing some work to save money and have some tools lying around, you could build your own enclosure for much cheaper than premade ones. There's plenty of tutorials and the materials (usually wood or acrylic) are fairly affordable. The long term costs of owning a snake are pretty negligible, it's the initial cost that's going to be pretty high.

Aside from the enclosure, you also need; a heat mat (ex), a thermostat (ex1 ex2), thermometer and hygrometer (ex), substrate (ex1 ex2), 2 hides (ex), water dish (ex), ceramic heat emitter (ex), cleaning supplies (ex), and a mist bottle (ex).

Those are all just examples and some of them might not work for you, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Things that aren't "technically" a requirement but are highly recommended are plants/decor and a light (UVB if you want to spoil them) to provide a day/night cycle. If you're wanting a Ball Python, options are practically endless on MorphMarket. Just make sure you do your research on a breeder before buying.

u/SydneyRubbert · 2 pointsr/snakes

I use this thermostat: Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat for Heat Mats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_q.ryub0RX2RPF

And I got a strip of LED lights, a remote control dimmer, and a power cord on Amazon for lighting since it gives off no heat and can be adjusted. I can link you if you're interested in that :) Although I will add that my BRB freezes and/or retreats to a hide with lights on. Pitch black and he'll pop out within ten minutes!

u/Inspire_Strikes_Back · 2 pointsr/leopardgeckos

You can get a regulator that has a probe that reads your ground temp, and then will switch your heat pad on/off when needed.

This one, and this one are both recommended in the beginner's guide. I personally have the second link and haven't had any troubles so far.

u/SparklyOtter · 2 pointsr/Sneks

Good looking out! Glad it's suction and not the sticky kind lol. And yeah it's supposed to be stuck to the bottom on the outside. They can get too hot and burn your snake (which can be fatal) so you'll really want to get a thermostat. I have this one and it works well. You'll stick the metal probe between the bottom of the tank and the heat mat. Keep in mind snakes are cold blooded and you're not...even if it doesn't feel too warm to you, it could be for a snake.

What kind of snake do you have? You might need to modify your setup to increase humidity depending on what species he/she is :)

u/pm_me_ur_gecko · 2 pointsr/snakes

I'm copy-pasting my post from another thread asking about heating - it explains how to correctly use an under-tank heater. I prefer under-tank heaters for snakes because they need belly heat, and prefer to hide and get warm rather than sit out and get warm like a beardie. Also lamps destroy humidity. A 20g terrarium with aspen, a UTH and a thermostat on one end, with 3-5 hides starting from the warm spot through to the cold spot with a nice water dish for soaking on the cool side is perfect! Make sure you get tank clamps, they are houdinis.


>More important than the heating pad is the thermostat. A thermostat regulates the temperature of a heat source. This thermostat is kind of expensive, but it's a "set it & forget it" thermostat. Set it to 90F, it'll warm up to 92, turn itself off, wait till it cools off to 88, and turn itself back on up to 92, and so on. All heating pads are incredibly unreliable. They can get up to 140F (my own heating pads have done this). Your reptile can't feel it until it's too late & they have burns. So I'd recommend any heating pad, this one is fine, and then a high-quality thermostat like the one I linked. You're also going to want a second thermometer to make sure your thermostat is reading correctly. This is my favorite (cheap) kind. Investing in an infrared thermometer in the long term is your best bet though! Hope this helps :)

u/Rebel_816 · 2 pointsr/leopardgeckos

Ditch the wood chips. How you like to walk on splinters all day? They can also get in their eyes. No sand either. Go for tile at the least, its cheapest in the long run as it never needs replacing and easiest to clean. paper towels work fine too. you probably dont need the lights for heat if its already that warm where you live. Leo's are nocturnal and dont really care for bright lights so most people only use them if they live in a colder climate and a uth just isnt enough on its own.

You can buy a thermostat that will control the UTH. it works just like the one in your house by turning the mat on and off as needed. it has a little probe that you place on the inside of the tank, below the substrate

u/Pandaninja · 2 pointsr/snakes

This is a good budget on/off thermometer. If you have it in the budget to spend a bit more, Herpstat is having a sale and you can get a nice intro proportional thermostat for about 100 dollars

u/KidLando · 2 pointsr/leopardgeckos

Once you have a under tank heater, it will probably be warm enough that you won't need the lamp. I'd also get a thermostat, in my experience heat pads will be 10-20 degrees above where I want them depending on what substrate I'm using (With slate tile it's 95 on full blast, with paper towels/news paper it will get up to 110). You could also just use a lamp dimmer from Lowes/Home Depot attached to the UTH.

Lamps will raise the ambient temperatures more and UTHs will directly heat the ground, which is what leos need, so they're always the best choice. You'll want to get a reliable thermometer that measures ground heat. So, a digital thermometer with a probe or a temp gun. Temp guns are great and can be bought at home improvement stores (but they're cheaper online). The warm side should be around 90 and the cool side should be around 75.

Do you know their sexes? Leos can only be housed together if they're both females and very similar in size. Males will fight and males with females can breed and/or fight. Even if they are both females, I'd be very careful. Bullying can happen even with females, and sometimes it's hard to see the signs because reptiles' social cues are way different than humans. They really always do best when housed alone. If you do choose to house them together, I'd double your hides. Two cool hides, two warm hides. The more hides there are, the less chance of fighting there is.

edit: forgot to say, yes that UTH should be fine. A rule of thumb is that it should cover about a third of the bottom of the tank.

u/hbfs97 · 2 pointsr/snakes

I use the Jumpstart thermostat for all of my dudes and it works like a charm. Three plugs to a thermostat, but I have most of my cages on their own due to varying UTH sizes (and therefore speed of temperatures/heating etc). https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S

u/Sybilestial · 2 pointsr/leopardgeckos

Some suggestions:

Remove waxworms. These guys are bad. They have an incredibly high fat content which makes them horrible grubs to "fatten up" a sick up to slight underweight geckos. They can cause liver disease. The worst part is leopard geckos can actually get addicted to them. They are also called "gecko crack." As a side note: They are one of the most readily available grubs at pet stores.

Handwarmers: These are incredibly unsafe for pets! Please don't suggest that. They make actual warmers for animals. Uniheat packs are cheap and reliable, offering minimum 40+ hours of heat. These are safe for insects, reptiles, even flowers! They are commonly used for shipping, and I would include this and a small fleece blanket as part of the "leopard gecko first aid kit." I have used these before and they are amazing. My Leo agrees. https://www.amazon.com/UniHeat-Shipping-Warmer-hours-pack/dp/B00ANPY5TY

Geckos should be quarantined for a minimum 60 -90 days before another is purchased (unless they are a rescue and the owner had 2 or more geckos) This way you won't accidentally contaminate a gecko you already have (like changing out hides, tile, etc)

If the geckos aren't eating from bowls, try clear ones. You can find a set of clear candle holders (that do not come with a candle) at dollar stores.

I'd lastly like to suggest the jump start thermostat as it is also very good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NZZG3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511019833&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=jump+start+thermostat&dpPl=1&dpID=41EIwcVuXPL&ref=plSrch

I hope you consider these suggestions. c:

u/ssserpentsss · 2 pointsr/snakes

The thread seemingly got derailed because a Thermostat is the #1 absolute most important thing to have when you own a snake. It is also the answer to your original question.

A snake needs to be able to safely lay DIRECTLY on the heat mat. Because one day, no matter what substrate you use, the snake will likely make it's way down through the layers of substrate. UTH's can and WILL get up to 150+ degrees Fahrenheit. I have seen it with my own eyes, many times. Also, source: http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/snakes/174166-do-i-really-need-thermostat.html

An unregulated heat mat will burn your snake. It might happen tomorrow, it might happen in 2 years, OR you might get very very very lucky, and your snake may never get burned.

But - considering you can get an alright thermostat for $40 (here: http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S), and a vet exam itself costs upwards of $50 (without any antibiotics or silvadene cream to treat a burn - that all costs extra). And that's even if you can even find a reptile vet. It's a no-brainer to have the thermostat.

Here's some examples of what happens when the UTH is unregulated: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/snakeyez/Ball%20Pythons/DSC02237.jpg

(pulled from this thread: http://www.reptilescanada.com/showthread.php/64049-Ball-Python-Feels-Warm-to-the-Touch)

This: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?211815-burn-scale-rot

This (luckily this one was caught very early): http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?208604-Belly-Burn-or-Scale-Rot-or-both-Please-assist

This (yuck!): http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?199105-advice-on-slight-burn-on-BP&p=2107735&viewfull=1#post2107735

This: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?202116-Possible-burn-help&highlight=belly+burn

I didn't say a snake CAN'T live in a glass tank, it's just way harder to keep conditions correct in a glass tank. If he's eating and shedding in one solid piece (no skin flaking off), then yay. But more times than not, people aren't willing to put in the work to maintain proper conditions in a tank. Then their snake won't shed properly, which leads to not eating, which leads to frustration, which leads to a neglected snake being listed for sale on Craigslist because "This asshole BP just won't eat I've done everything" (not!) Not directing this at you, just saying in general, this is what usually happens.

u/MagnesiumCitrate250 · 2 pointsr/leopardgeckos

Hydrofarm MTPRTC Controller Thermostat for Heat Mats Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Jump Start Digital, 9-by-19-1/2-Inch, Black Plastic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OicvDbNMZZHEN

u/Dergins · 2 pointsr/snakes

If it gets that cold I'd run two heat pads, set one to 93-95F for basking temp and one to 78-80F for cool side temps. Or you could use a RHP like one of these. Keep in mind all sources of heat MUST be regulated by a thermostat, this is the budget but effective option, these are the best option. Please, feel free to pick our brains on ball care! We all love our little noddle friends and want them to have happy and healthy lives.

u/Furgus · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I've read on here people who've used both and they both seem good. I'll most likely get a ceramic heater when I move my colony inside for winter. In NC my garage and a medium heat pad worked perfectly for my little guys. Most important thing is a thermostat. Set it to a temp you want and put the probe in the crates. It will shut off when it gets to temp and you'll be set.
Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-Certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6vOLxb6ZPC5RW
I love my little roaches and my dragon seems to love them too.

u/Bossman1086 · 2 pointsr/ballpython

I highly recommend a digital one. Something like this.

u/jynnsomething · 2 pointsr/geckos

Attach a thermostat to that heating pad, you can get a relatively cheap one like this: https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S

u/M3L0Cactus · 1 pointr/cactus

mats

temp controller

These things are a must for proper seedling germination also, for many species, not only cacti. Well, they are here in zone 4 anyhow, lol.

u/skydivegayguy · 1 pointr/snakes

to be fair, OP did say under another comment that they're going to be looking into getting a thermostat for it

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

there's the one that I use for the heat tape in my snake rack OP, if you really wanna go out and get the rolls royce of thermostats get a herpstat! they're expensive as fuck though, the one I linked is like 30 bucks

u/nxnja · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

Do you have a thermostat?

I have this one and it's set to 91F, so my temperature never goes below 89F

u/themoviehero · 1 pointr/cornsnakes

Oh okay, I have one of these I got for the heat mat, which I can return, would something like this one work? If not do you know what brands I should look out for? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/KingTrent · 1 pointr/hognosesnakes
u/angelkely1213 · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

If you get an under the tank heating pad (UTH), you can also get a thermostat to plug the heating pad into that you can set to a certain temperature and it will turn off the heating pad when it gets warm enough. Here is the thermostat I got and it comes with a wire you stick into the tank to monitor the heat. Really useful for keeping the heat consistent.

u/x-mav · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

I do have both on at the same time but the heater is on one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Though it seems to be on more than not.

I think its set to 85. The basking rock is typically between 102-110. I thought as long as the desired basking temp was in that range, I was fine?

u/TheRaveLord · 1 pointr/geckos

Crested geckos technically do not need a heat source. I live in a particularly cold area so I use a heater to buff into the higher 60's in the winter (just to be safe). If you go the heat route do not use a regular heat lamp bulb. Non light emitting ceramic heat bulbs are a must. Also never use a heat lamp without a thermostat like this one to regulate its temperature.

u/EmeraldGirl · 1 pointr/herpetology

No lamp. Although if you want one for aesthetic reasons, go for a cheap CFL on a timer... but make sure there's absolutely no way your snake can get to it.

Flexwatt heat tape (I like this guy because he'll wire it for you for free) + thermostat for easy heating where you can easily check the temp and don't constantly need to adjust.

Honestly, the best enclosures are the ones you build yourself. I built my first cage with a battery operated drill and a hand saw. In retrospect it was annoying as hell, but I still have and love the cage. You can make it the perfect size and perfect shape. Stained wood (sealed obviously) can make for a quality piece of furniture or paint it dayglo orange for a conversation piece.

u/tronquixote · 1 pointr/ballpython

Wow, sorry, I never got a notification about this thread! This is the thermostat I got that I was recommended on this sub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was not able to tell from the page whether it has variable output or not.

u/jchabotte · 1 pointr/HotPeppers

Not a Bostonian, but from eastern CT..

Have you planted already? it's getting late to start, but there's still time!

Assuming you have nothing going yet, here's how i start:

  1. Get yourself and indoor 3 or 4 shelf portable greenhouse from some discount store like Ocean State Job Lot for about $20. Also in this trip, get the seed starter tray, obviously.
  2. Peppers need warm soil to germinate, but not too hot or they'll cook. I picked up http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001WV010/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this, for each seed tray. Set them to 82F
  3. Take a piece of foam core insulation and place it on each shelf under the heating mat. The insulation will reflect the heat back up and allow the temperature to rise in the soil, a lot is lost by heat radiating downward.
  4. Water appropriately and and wait, for now.

    I over-watered a lot this year, so i don't have full germination (maybe about 66%) but last year i had over 90%.
u/devongarv · 1 pointr/ballpython

It's very pretty, but not ideal for a ball python. The lights will stress Gary out and hurt his eyes. Consider getting an under the tank heater (with a thermostat) and, like the other commenter said, ditch the thermometer and hydrometer for a digital one.

This is a great thermostat.

u/jason221 · 1 pointr/snakes

No, Zoo-Med is shit. If you're looking for cheap, this is probably your best bet. More money will get a better thermostat.

u/killebrew · 1 pointr/snakes

You will want some airflow so covering the top entirely isn't a great idea. During the summer months I had no issue with humidity in a glass tank but once fall hit I had to change over to a rubbermaid tub with holes drilled in half of the lid to keep my percentage around 60. You might consider doing something similar. You also want to make sure you have a hide on both ends of the enclosure so the snake can regulate their temps. I use flukers heat mat and this digital thermometer with great success so far. The nice thing about the fluker mat is that you don't have to stick it on the bottom of the enclosure. Once you are ready for a bigger enclosure (assuming the mat is big enough) you can use the same mat. For hides I suggest you go with something cheap being that once your ball is established it will start growing like a weed. Hopefully this helps!

u/Armadus2 · 1 pointr/ReefTank

I'm a huge fan of redundancy also. I'd go with two heaters and put one of them on a controller. I have this http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375923109&sr=8-2&keywords=heat+controllers controller. It is cheap and does the trick. I also set the proper temperature on all heaters.

u/chaarmanderchar · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

This is the thermostat I own.

You simply plug the heat pad into the thermostat and set the temperature. The thermostat will turn the heat pad on until set heat is reached, then turn it off after a bit. When the temperature drops back down, it will turn it back up. Another good thing to own is a heat gun to verify floor temps and adjust the stat if necessary. Also, like most technologies, thermostats can and will eventually fail. That's why it's important to check the temp everyday even when using a thermostat, to ensure it functions properly. I've had a friend use lower quality stats that failed and sadly led to the death 10 of his reptiles. Better safe than sorry.

u/synacl1 · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

I would recommend picking up a simple remote probe digital thermometer. They are far more accurate than IR temp guns. I have had luck with the Zoo-Med UTH pads. Based on your tank size you probably want a large. If you are having problems with them coming un-stuck pick up a roll of Aluminum Duct Tape. Get a thermostat with remote probe and you should be good to go. If you are having trouble with the ambient temp do a ceramic bulb overhead.

u/nerotheus · 1 pointr/snakes

Putting more layers isn't going to fix anything. Snakes enjoy burrowing under things, it will just burrow under it. The only true option is to buy a thermostat, otherwise you will just torture the snake more and more from the hot temperatures.


Here's a cheap option


I've been using it for a while now and it works like a charm. Put the probe between the heating pad and the glass, or put the probe inside the enclosure and on to the glass. Use a thermometer gun to determine it's temperatures, as the thermostat is not to be trusted entirely.


Snakes will often harm themselves just so they can feel secure; even if their hide is too hot, they will stay in it, because it makes them feel secure. Even if the warmth is too warm, they will stay in it, because they need warmth. It is up to you to make sure everything is right.

u/Attunes · 1 pointr/ballpython
u/Marzipan86 · 1 pointr/snakes

I'm only using a digital thermometer from ZooMed about halfway up the tank wall, but I can move it down so it's closer to the substrate. It's not ideal, but it keeps me from either freezing or frying the snake. She spend a lot of time hanging out on the heat pad (which only covers 1/4-1/3 of the tank bottom). I suppose that might mean the rest of the tank is too chilly, though... Is this the sort of thermostat you're talking about?

I'm actually way more worried about the wild temperature fluctuations multiple times a day due to quick, extreme changes in room temperature. Sadly, I'm not in a financial situation where I should have ectotherms.

Edit: Oh, and the light is more for the benefit of the people around her than her. She's on a photoperiod, though, so I'm not sure how important that is.

u/ayimera · 1 pointr/reptiles

I do agree those temps seem a bit low. I keep my geckos at 68-72 during the winter and they do just fine, but anything below 65 I'd be concerned about for an extended period of time. I suggest against using any red bulbs, as reptiles do in fact see red light. Your two best options for night-time heating are a Ceramic Heat Emitter and a Heating Pad. Both of these should be regulated with a thermostat (something like this is a good inexpensive option). 12x12x18s are too small for adults, so just be careful with any heating elements because, while crested geckos can self-regulate by moving away when they get too warm, if the cage is too small there might not be anywhere to go. I'm glad to hear you are planning on a bigger cage for her.

u/mcmeaningoflife42 · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

Heat mats and a good temperature control(I highly suggest this one) are necessary. Keep one side of the tank around 90-92 in the day and a couple degrees cooler in the night and keep the other side unheated. Have one "hide" spot in the unheated side, one in the heated side, and a moist one in the heated side as well for use in shedding. For heat mats I use zoo-med brand though there may be better ones- just slap one or two under the side you want to heat. Geckos hate sunlight and as an extension hate heat lamps. Just for your reference, a uth is an under-tank heater. If you are using wood chips as a substrate, I would suggest tiles or "reptile carpet" instead.

u/Neversun · 1 pointr/snakes

I would recommend using this thermostat because it's cheap, with any heat mat you have. Zoomed's are good because they stick flush to the tank, Flukers is also good but isn't sticky so you have to tape it. To stop it from burning the carpet, I elevate mine with little furniture feet or other equally sized objects on each corner, so it's still sturdy, but gives ~1in of airflow under the tank to allow the heat mat to dissipate.

If you could get the hot side up higher, that would be better. If that's surface temperature, he may have slower digestion than he would normally, and the lower temps may be contributing to his lethargy. I usually offer a hotspot of around 90 for tropical boas so they can rest and digest there to increase their metabolism. If you have an IF temp gun already, that's killer! (If you're super poor and don't want to purchase the thermostat, if you buy the heat mat and religiously check its heat for the first few weeks, it may be alright. heat mats don't usually fuck up if you install them properly and let them get airflow, but any higher than 95F and your snake will not use the spot at all, and can be harmed by continuous exposure to higher temps) The cool side should be no lower than 78 or so (though nighttime drops and winter drops are acceptable but again, this may contribute to health problems or lethargy)- if you live somewhere cold, you could move the red bulb to the cold side and put the heat mat on the hot side, and just turn the lamp off at night (while still being sure to check the temps).

The humidity is a problem though- he could definitely use more like 60%, and lower humidities can cause URIs in boas easily. I can't exactly tell what kind of substrate you have, but in my experience, boas do better on "richer" substrate than wood chips. Coco husk or coco fiber, cypress mulch, Eco earth, and other more soil-like substrates hold humidity a lot better. You can mist them daily and keep your humidity perfect. If you don't want to change the substrate fully (which is totally fine, I keep all of my snakes on kiln-dried pine and aspen (kiln-drying removes most if not all of the harmful phenols from pine shavings so it's safe to use IF kiln-dried) so I don't switch for different species (though I probably will once I get my tegu, as he needs a soil substrate for higher humidity, and my boa will enjoy it too). If you don't want to switch, make a small hide box he can curl up in and feel nice and safe, and fill it with sphagnum moss. It's super cheap, just get organic or pesticide-free. If you mist this daily, it'll maintain a microhabitat with ~100% humidity for the whole day. This means your boa can choose if he feels dehydrated, to go and balance his body in the humid hide. I would still recommend getting the overall humidity to 60%, but I like to also provide inexpensive alternatives because I get it.

I've also noted that snakes will climb on pretty much anything as long as it's safe for them. You could use old ceramic pots, an old basket handle, some scrap metal you have sanded down, whatever- as long as it's been cleaned and treated, and is "soft" enough to not damage the animal. For wood, I rarely sand it down unless it's an actual wood cut that is being made. In nature, they encounter things like rough bark and stones, and I always see my snakes rubbing their faces on the roughest surface in their cage to shed.

I hope this helps! I'm fairly experienced with boas, so if you ever need any more help down the line, seriously feel free to PM me any time. :) I love helping people with snakes and giving them new ideas to make their pet even happier.

u/CatchphraseJones21 · 1 pointr/snakes

This is the one I ordered. Apparently I'm able to plug in the mat into the device and it would regulate the heater
Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i02myb1RWMVM1

u/matt0101 · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos
  1. untreated slate tiles are probably best and easiest, paper towel works too.

  2. thermostat with a probe. i use this one. the uth should cover 1/3 of the tank underneath the glass.

  3. it should be above the UTH (along with a dry warm hide,) so the warm side.

  4. variety is key. crickets and mealworms are fine as long as you provide belly heat, proper gutload, and adequate dusting. waxworms are junk food, use them for treats only. leos can also eat butterworms, hornworms, dubia roaches, silkworms, and superworms. the most important parts here are: variety, gutload, and vitamin/calcium dusting.
u/Disco_Quail · 1 pointr/awwreptiles

If you haven't already come across this caresheet I found on GeckosUnlimited forums, I highly recommend reading! It's insanely detailed but really, really helpful!

You might want to get a thermostat like this one for the UTH, I found that mine was going crazy and getting up to 100F when I checked it with a temp gun. Here's a cheapie one off Amazon, it'd be better than nothing!

You might try some overhanging fake foliage to provide shade from the light and make her feel more secure, as well. As far as cleaning, you can clean with white vinegar which a lot of reptile peeps use and swear by. I personally prefer Zoo Med's Wipe Out, and Chlorhexidine which is also reptile safe but for deep cleaning, a vet grade sanitizer like F10 might be good.

Just make sure you quarantine her away from your other animals, and get a fecal test checking for parasites done for her if she poops. I'd also advise a visit to an experienced reptile vet, as her poor nutrition may have caused some deficiencies like MBD. As for diet, I might advise trying to get her some silkworms (which are pricey, but if she'll eat them they can help her recover) and a varied diet of Dubia, calciworms, hornworms, and occasional wax or mealworm (they shouldn't be her main diet, nutritional value isn't very high.)

She's a very lucky girl and hopefully with a little time and TLC, she will make a full recovery! No matter what, her quality of life will be 200% better with you and I'm sure she's very grateful

u/jisakujiens · 1 pointr/Hydroponics

No problem. Hope some of this helps.

I've never used rooting powder. RapidStart is a liquid you mix into the reservior for young plants. It comes with instructions for hydro systems.

If you don't recirculate the water to the fishtank, and it's not bubbling through a waterfall or something, then you should add an air stone. It will cut down on the algae at the very least.

> I'm thinking my initial failure was the way I germinated. Now, a bunch of my tomato roots are pretty long and good, and sit in the water.

Most likely. Skinny, leggy seedlings usually means not enough light or light too far away. They can also damp off which can cause the stem to become thin and brown until the seedling falls over.

I never use anything but pure pH balance (usually pH 5.5) water with my seedlings until they develop a true leaf set. The seed contains all the nutrients the plant needs up to this point. Presoak your cubes in the ph balance water for 24h before planting.

I also recommend investing in a germination setup. Add a thermostat to keep from cooking your plants :)

I usually plant 25-50% more seeds than I need, and select only the most vigorous seedlings.

Google for optimal germination conditions for the plants you're growing. It can vary significantly. Lettuces do not usually want the same conditions at tomatoes.

> But I have like 2 or so inches of water at the bottom of this thing. Is that super bad?

As long as the plants look healthy and the roots don't develop a layer of dark slimy crap on them (root rot) then you're cool. Optimally you want nice white roots. Some discoloration is OK if the plants are still healthy.

If you are worried about root rot, fungus, algae, etc, the nuclear option is Physan 20. Just don't use it on plants within a week or two of fruiting if you plan to consume the fruits (according to a company rep).

Growing from seed is a big challenge. Keep at it.

u/mikeferg007 · 1 pointr/Kombucha

A great setup for keeping your brew at a consistent temperature is a cooler and a seed warming pad. Prop up the seed warming pad along one wall of the coolers walls. Wedge something along the hinge so the cooler remains open at least 4-6 inches. Then drape a light flannel over it.

To get more high tech get one of these thermostats:
https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S

u/ImThereOnTheDouble · 1 pointr/snakes

UTH and regulated by this. I'm using medium UTH. Measuring the temp at the top of the substrate - he doesn't burrow that much - so I didn't put the probe at the bottom of the tank. I have the temp regulator set to 85, but the UTH can't get the top of the substrate to that level - should I get a red light?

u/MetalMaiden420 · 1 pointr/hamsters

Hooking up a thermostat to a heating pad is as easy as plugging it in, then plugging the thermostat into the wall. Heat Pad into Thermostat into Wall Outlet.

Here's a cheap thermostat that a lot of people get

I personally use these for a heat pad but ZooMed ones work too (found in most petsmarts and petco's)

Also if you go this route, I HIGHLY reccomend getting a laser thermometer to make SURE the pad isnt getting too hot. One I have is found here.

u/AutoModerator · 1 pointr/ballpython


I am a bot programmed to automatically provide the following content by /u/_Ataraxia when summoned. Link to the most recent version of this content here

The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

Ball Python Care Guides

  • the basics and then some
  • common problems
  • feeding problems

    Set-up Recommendations

  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. some popular brands include animal plastics [most recommended], boaphile plastics [i personally have these and like them], reptile basics, and vision cages, though you'll find many more with a quick google search. many people will use a tub at first and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as pro products [most recommended] or reptile basics.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

    Copypasta version 7/24/2018 (c) /u/_Ataraxia

    I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.
u/skullbird · 1 pointr/snakes

Yup! Just a storage tub! I don't have any detailed photos of my set up on hand but there are a lot of them out there

For airholes just poke holes in the side. Right on the lid lets the warm out, so around the lip of the top works better. I used a soldering iron to melt holes along the lid of mine. Screwing holes in with just a nail and a screwdriver could work too. Test drive it with some substrate and a humidity reader for a bit, so you can find that perfect sweet spot.

Tubs are heated with an under tank heater or heat tape.. Thermostats are required with any heat tape or UTH, glass tank or tub. They're not expensive though.

Ball pythons need belly heat more than heat from above, so heat tape on the bottom works fine for them. If you want heat from above, you can just wrap the heat tape or UTH along the side and top of the lid. That's what I did for my carpet python, you can see it wrapped around the lid in the upper left. Just with doing that and nothing else I have a real even 80 to 90 temperature gradient.

u/SirPsychoSexy22 · 1 pointr/ballpython

This may be a little late, but I use two of these with mine, and they work pretty well, just make sure you hot glue the sensor directly to the bottom of the tank, on top of the heat pad.

Jump Start MTPRTC Digital Controller Thermostat For Heat Mats, Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_IsB92HFEFW1VE

u/Capps14e · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos
u/superramenyamen · 1 pointr/snakes

If you live in the US, a cheap temporary thermostat would be a Hydrofarm. You can buy them off Amazon. Since they're ON/OFF they're not good long term. When you can, I'd suggest a Herpstat or Vivarium Electronics with pulse-proportional. It should have whether or not it's supported in the description.

Hydrofarm: https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469776821&sr=8-2&keywords=hydrofarm

u/Xaila · 1 pointr/snakes

Absolutely. I've seen it get the glass to over 120 F. Pick yourself up a thermostat - a good and affordable option is the hydrofarm one: http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370714839&sr=8-1&keywords=hydrofarm+thermostat

u/beckybotsford · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

You should NEVER use an undertank heater without a thermostat. Ever.
Here are a couple reasonably-priced thermostats you can use to regulate your heat mat's temperature. This is essential. Don't play low ball on an animal's life.

Hydrofarm Digital Thermostat

Zilla temperature controller

u/Azrielenish · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S

Works as the other user described. Very easy.

u/cfox109 · 1 pointr/snakes

Ya, hogs are really sensitive to heat. If there temp isn't up where they like it they'll have issues eating. I would not only get a thermostat but an extra thermometer or temp gun. Id keep the hot side around 90 they do better with warmer temps in my experience.

Heres a popular and affordable thermostat

u/EPIC-8970 · 1 pointr/hognosesnakes

Of course, take good care of husbandry, once you do you’ll feel more at peace lol. Take it from me, I was in a panic because my thermostat was coming late and it was getting too hot below the substrate. Feels good now to have a thermostat handling things for me.

Here’s the links to what I have, good luck:

www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WxkzDb9TYPQ3Z

www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lxkzDb47R94N0

u/SkepticSarah · 1 pointr/ballpython

Make sure to get a digital thermostat instead of a analog one. I personally recommend the Jump Starts.

Install the probe over the hot spot of the UTH (normally in the center) and hot glue it in place.

u/MotherCybele · 1 pointr/reptiles

I have a female sand boa that I love to bits and pieces. Her care could not be more simple. I have a 10 gal tank with a uth on a hydrofarm Thermostat set to 90F. During the cold months she has a 40 watt lamp during the day as well. She is 9 months old, weighs 38 grams, and has never missed a meal. She eats like a piggy. She has also never struck at anyone or acted aggressive in any way. I would definitely recommend sand boas to first time owners!

u/AnonElbatrop · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519058643&sr=8-1&keywords=jump+start+thermostats

This is a cheaper thermostat, you plug the heat mat into it and put the probe on the floor inside the warm hide set to the right temps. If you have amazon prime I would unplug the heat mat to keep your gecko safe. Another great item to get would be a laser thermometer to monitor floor temps because sometimes those thermostats can be a bit off.

u/angelichrissy · 0 pointsr/BallPythons

this or this, depending on if you want the thermometer/hygrometer inside or outside of the enclosure.

also, a thermostat is different from a thermometer. thermostats regulate temperature while thermometers measure.

also, you need at least two hides. one on the cool end and one on the warm end. your snake should be able to fit snugly, touching the sides of the hide when it's inside of it. half logs don't count as hides because they have two entrances. and clutter up the open space to make your snake feel less vulnerable.