Reddit reviews Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL)

> PB blaster

Allow me to introduce you to Aero Kroil. I used PB Blaster for years, then a machinist friend introduced me to this stuff. You'll never look back.

https://smile.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA?sa-no-redirect=1

if you're new and you just want an easy kit:



field manual with pictures if you're really new to AR's something like this is super valuable to have.

Otis Cleaning Kit includes everything you need to clean it.



solvent You probably don't need a solvent on a new rifle but its damn handy to have around. this stuff is for ultra deep cleaning.



Lube Everyone has their favorite Lube, mine is ballistol, you can dump it on pretty much everything, and it makes it work together smoothly



scrapper for when your bolt carrier group gets all fuckered.



EDIT: almost forgot, you're def going to want one of these puppies too, a chamber brush


Cleaning tools usually come down to personal preference, cost, and how effective you can use them to keep your gun rust free and preforming well. I have had a great experience with all the tools i linked, and have used them to keep my AR 15 clean and functioning for a few thousand rounds. I think the largest benefit to this set up is that all these tools will easily fit inside of any range bag.



Have a good one and keep shooting!

You may have luck with an impact screw driver like this, but you may want to start by adding a small amount of penetrating lubricant like this. Safety is a big deal with a panel, so either have the meter removed while you work on it, or be extremely careful while you work. If the money isn't a huge issue it would be worth swaping that federal pacific panel out for something newer and more safe if possible. Best of luck to you.

I'm a mechanic, this is your best bet. It's oil that foams for a short while after being sprayed so it expands up into the mechanism and cleans it out. I wouldn't use wd-40 as it tends to collect dirt and cause the same problem more than simple oil will.

edit: When the spray out fails the next step is an overnight bath in a gentle solvent. Barring that you'll need a new shifter.

Another product is Kroil, tapping lightly on the end of the handle with a hammer can help shake it loose, heating and cooling in the oven can also help.

Step 1: aerokroil

Step 2: handle puller

PB Blaster or Aerokroil
https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519242522&sr=8-1&keywords=areo+kroil

Used Aerokroil on a stuck body mount bolt and ten mins later it was on the floor.

Supposedly This is the best over the counter penetrating oil you can buy. I've never used it. I personally use This.

Aeokroil is the best I've ever used

If you can get some Aerokroil. This shit is amazing, it will loosen just about anything.

If it still doesn't come out, spray it down with Aerokroil and let it sit overnight to soak in. Next day use a torch to heat up whatever the bolt is threaded into, while cooling the actual bolt with some ice. This will cause the the metal to expand and shrink, loosening the fit on them.

I bought a knife for 2 bucks that was a little less rusted then that, but still very rusty. Don't forcefully open it, but if it opens without too much effort that's ok. Before opening or trying anything soak it in WD40. If you have a type of penetrating oil (like Kroil) that would be good too. Once the WD40 has gotten as much rust off as it can, you will want to take some kind of metal brush too the blade. If you have a wire brush and a drill, you can carefully try that too (just on the really bad parts). Once you've gotten it down to where you can see more metal then rust, take some #000 steel wool and some WD40 and get to work. As for the handle, I would suggest starting off with #000 or even #0000 steel wool as it is really fine and can remove the lighter rust with ease. Once you've got it de-rusted take some metal polish and a towel and get rubbing. If that isn't working fast enough, take some of the #0000 steel wool and use the metal polish with that. At this point you should have a pretty shiny knife, but there will likely still be dips in the knife with rust in them. Not a whole lot you can do about that, but hopefully the worse of it won't be on the blade (or edge of the blade). At this point you will want to clean the knife with isp alcohol to make sure no wd40 or polish is left on the knife, and then go ahead and sharpen it.

Kroil: http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420942400&sr=8-1&keywords=kroil

I recently did an accidental long term storage test on my guns. I didn't have nearly the same amount of rust you do but... /u/moveman61 recommend Kroil to me. It worked wonders.

Steps:
Strip 870 (stock included)
Spray Kroil on affected areas
Let sit for 10-15 min
Use brass brush
Wipe clean

From here you have 1 of 2 choices

A: Apply oil to prevent future rust
B: degrease and paint it

In the past I have used black spray paint that is meant to go on grills. Its a cheap (bubba) solution compared to more expensive paints and it has worked quite nicely for me in the past. I wouldn't use this method on a nicer gun but for the standard black 870 it works great. If you're worried about matching colors just go ahead and clean/paint the barrel as well. As long as you do a decent spray job nobody will even notice. I even had one guy ask me how I kept the finish so nice over the years. It took him a second to realize there was paint on it.

WD-40 is a terrible penetrating lubricant. He'll want to use something like PB Blaster or AeroKroil. WD-40 was designed for water displacement, not lubrication, and it doesn't penetrate much at all.

Kroil.

I've won bets with a can of Kroil and a Knipex Cobra.

There is a penetrant you can buy called Aerokroil that Ford recommends specifically for removal of stuck spark plugs. It is recommeded by name in the factory training video for removal of the 3 piece spark plugs that get stuck in the triton engines. This stuff is amazing.
Before you break it off, get a can of this and let it soak in for an hour or so. The plug will probably come right out.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393988347&sr=8-1&keywords=aerokroil

So when I discovered pb blaster, it was amazing. Stuff worked so much better than the other products I used. Then I got into the trades and a couple of the old timers swore by a product called Aero Kroil. I refuse to use anything else now. Literally works 20x better than pb blaster. Stuff is amazing. I have never had it fail to break anything loose.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA

Also they make Sili Kroil which adds a silicon type lubricant, which works 10,000 times better than WD40 for lubricating.

http://www.amazon.com/SiliKroil-Penetrating-Solvent-aerosol-SILIKROIL/dp/B0003041WK

My house was built in 2001, so I'm guessing somewhere around then.

Something like this maybe?

That is also my general understanding of how to ventilate.

If your winter temps don't drop below freezing, I believe you can vent year around (someone please correct me if I'm wrong here), but closing off the vents in cold weather doesn't just protect your pipes, it helps cut down on your heating bill a tad (but probably not by much really since the R value of a foundation is fairly low).

As far as getting your current vents to work, I have used liquid wrench penetrating oil and achieved great results and I haven't tried it but have heard great things about Kroil.

In your case, I think that you REALLY need to get down a vapor barrier under your house--that will cut down on the stale smell, and I am pretty sure it also reduces exposure to radon (if you are at any risk).

This video does a good job of showing a well executed install of vapor barrier.

Penetrating oil. I like this stuff.

You don't want that getting into the system though, so once it's free, soak the area in dish soap and water.

That sets your ball up for corrosion again, so spritz it with Pam or some other food grade oil.

I run into locks that have been unused for years. I have two key blanks: a Kwikset and a Schlage. If the key blank has a hard time entering the key way, I use Aero Kroil to loosen it up for picking. It works great.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA

Shut off the water supply to the house. Turn on the sink faucets. Turn on any faucets below the sink if possible, such as a spigot outside, downstairs sink, bathtub, etc. The water will flow out. It should not take more than 5 minutes.

Put a bucket/pan\towel under the sink as usual. Then you can swap out the sink fixture and leave the hot water valve open.

Alternately, get some Kano and spray it just below the handle on the valve, where the post goes into the housing, and let it sit overnight.

Then put one wrench on the valve handle, and a second wrench on the valve housing (below the stem) and twist. The second wrench will keep you from twisting the valve right off the pipe as the pipe is generally soft and easy to damage if you twist it too hard!

Get some kroil

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA

Kroil is where it's at. It's fucking dark magic how well it works.

UV-5R, small axe, 3/8 socket set, random pipe, water bottles, tow strap, mosquito repellant, hi-lift jack with liftmate, moving blanket, tarp, paracord, aerokroil

if I had to pick three things it would be the UV5R, blanket, socket set, paracord. see what I did there?

Get yourself some Kano Kroil from Amazon and spray it down liberally. Wait 24 hours and then try to take the bolt off. I use said spray consistently at work to free up bolts that have rusted solid on 2000° boilers. It is worth every penny.

Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rQ.IDb8RWT79K

Kroil is much better than PB Blaster. Get a can and use it sparingly. https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518798021&sr=8-1&keywords=aerokroil

A good quality ratchet can be better than a cheap breaker bar at times. However, a good breaker bar is a very valuable tool. Also in this case, the proper tool would have been a crows foot and a breaker bar. You don't need crows feet very often, but when you need them you need them, and they really aren't too expensive.

Yeah, that's a big problem. They call it knuckle busting for a reason. For stuck nuts and bolts, my go to is a product called "Air-Kroil" I've never used a better creeping oil that this stuff. It's worth it. We use it in industrial settings all the time. If you can stand on a cheater bar, then you can probably get an impact driver on it. Black and Decker makes on for 60 bucks. You need a bit of clearance for it, probably 8 inches or so. There's also a MAPP gas torch, of course be careful not to catch shit on fire, have a fire extinguisher on hand, clean up the area before hand as well, heating it helps to bust stuck parts sometimes. So does cooling it, in inverted Airduster can sprays that liquid that'll freeze shit.