Reddit reviews Kasa Smart WiFi Plug w/Energy Monitoring by TP-Link - Reliable WiFi Connection, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa Echo & Google Assistant (HS110),White

I use home assistant for my automation, it has google home integration and I use some tp-link smart plugs for enery monitoring. If you own your home you might want to look into switches instead of lightbulbs it will save you some frustration.

Just $20 will do this for you. Buy a WiFi-enabled power switch. Update your pc bios to boot after power failure. Plug pc into WiFi power. Install the app for your WiFi on your phone. Done.

Link to the WiFi power switch:
TP-Link Smart Plug w/ Energy Monitoring, No Hub Required
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC5ZY/

Search for “Kasa” app on your App Store for remote access.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0178IC5ZY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I use this :
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Monitoring-Required-Assistant-HS110/dp/B0178IC5ZY

IT gives you the same knd of information as a kill-o-watt, but there is an unofficial library that allows you to get the information you need directly from the socket's internal API : https://github.com/softScheck/tplink-smartplug

That's pretty useful for a dashboard integration

I have it since last week, it seems reliable compared to measurements I did with a kill-o-watt, but my experience is quite limited with it

I've been doing a lot of research on the power consumption thing myself and planning on a grow over winter. You can plug the numbers into a calculator like the one below and get accurate estimates.

http://www.saskpower.com/efficiency-programs-and-tips/save-power-at-home/analyze-your-use/power-consumption-calculator/

If you don't know the cost of your power you can probably find it on your bill or google it.

You can also look at something like:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Monitoring-Required-Anywhere-HS110/dp/B0178IC5ZY/

Which lets you not only schedule your lights to turn on/off automatically but will also show you current power usage, average power usage over the last 7 days/30 days etc.

I can't speak to florescent but the standard 300W Grow LED you see on Amazon like the Mars Hydro ones and their derivatives use about 140W/Hour.

I plan on using two of those for ~12 hours a day and a small space heater when needed to help keep the tent I bought warm and my estimate is about $20/month in electricity costs here in Saskatchewan.

> Re interference. Are your washer and dryer connected?

I'm not him, but my washer and dryer are stacked, so vibration detection probably isn't reliable.

Currently, I'm using the TP-Link HS110 WiFi Plug w/Energy Monitoring to tell me when the washer and dryer are on/off. Works flawlessly so far and it was only $16 each when I bought them last year, just so you know there are other reliable solutions in existence.

Great news! Oh man, downtime is the worst. That'll teach you to leave the house!

Your voltages sound good, I think I'm just running 950/950 because I have yet to tweak that card. Btw, if you need BIOS for the Pulse, I have some. My 580 rig is pretty much a grab-bag of 4 different brands: MSI, ASUS, Gigabyte, and Sapphire. In any case, I'll tell you what I have setup...

I went ahead and bought this smart plug. Touch of a button using TP-Link's phone app and I can do a hard power cycle. Be aware this could cause conflicts with WiFi if your rig is running on WiFi. I have powerline adapters for a wired ethernet connection which work great and I don't have to lay tens of feet of cable.

Now, to prevent having to power cycle in the first place, I have a couple of things. Of course, my rig auto logs in to Windows without a password. Upon login, it runs a .bat file for my overclocks using OverdriveNTool. Then it launches Claymore. And finally I use software called "Speedfan" which has a set of rules that if any of the GPUs drop below 50C for more than 2 minutes, it runs a reboot.bat file that contains "shutdown /r /t 5 /f". I know Claymore has this built-in, but sometimes a GPU will fail and Claymore will restart on its own without needing a system reboot.

I use an app called "Startup Delayer" by r2 Studios which lets me run the OverdriveNTool bat file for my overclocks after 20s, then Claymore after 30s, and finally Speedfan after 2 minutes.

For remote monitoring, I use Team Viewer. Simple and easy. I also use a website called claymoremonitor.com to check in on my rig from time to time (like on my phone) without having to remote in. You can see it here.

I run custom voltages through Claymore, here's what my .bat looks like:

EthDcrMiner64.exe -epool eth-us-east1.nanopool.org:9999 -ewal MYWALLET.MYWORKER/MYEMAIL -epsw x -ftime 10 -etha 0 -dcri 55 -mport -8644 -cvddc 885,875,875,950,875,875,875,885 -mvddc 885,875,875,975,875,875,875,885 -dpool stratum+tcp://xvg.antminepool.com:9008 -dwal MYWALLET -dcoin blake2s

Perhaps.

Here is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC5ZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use a smart switch from TP-Link to turn on/off my TV. It works perfectly with Google Home. You just have to be careful how you name the switch. Some names are not recognized correctly.


https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Energy-Monitoring-TP-Link/dp/B0178IC5ZY

Eh fellow Canadians, just found out the hs110 is cheaper for us at $30
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0178IC5ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BwkXzbE9M4FEA

These aren't quite outdoor, but perhaps they will help kick start some other ideas. You could use four of those tail extensions with these TP Link smart plugs https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Monitoring-Required-Assistant-HS110/dp/B0178IC5ZY that will individually control whatever is plugged into it. You could even do it all by one socket (power strip)... but just find a way to keep it weather-ready.

I like this one for controlling an L1 EVSE:
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Wi-Fi-Energy-Management-SP-2101W/dp/B00N4OBJAO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486343106&sr=1-1&keywords=edimax+smart+plug

Can be controlled by a smartphone (also has a hidden API if you're technically inclined -- I control it from my linux server), scheduleable, energy metering real-time reading of how much energy it's pulling along with kWh totals and reports.

Since I don't have a predictable driving/charging schedule (and thus just using the normal schedule feature would result in charging every night eventually up to 100%), I tend to use one-off cron/at jobs from my linux box to do one-off charge sessions.

edit: If I was purchasing again, I might consider the newer https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Monitoring-Required-Anywhere-HS110/dp/B0178IC5ZY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486343373&sr=1-2&keywords=tp-link+hs110 which supports 240V (up to 16A), which would then support the L1 EVSE upgraded to L2. However I haven't personally used it hence the original recommendation. The Edimax, while only supporting 120V (up to 15A), has been reliable for me in a year of usage.

You can grab one of these bad boys if you have WiFi on your bus

TP-LINK HS110 Smart Plug w/Energy Monitoring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC5ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5qxDDbG3AFS38

Will monitor your watt hours used

So, I see replies have given estimates of how much power they think an Xbox and led screen might use. If I were you I'd try to find this info by either looking it up or using a power monitoring outlet, such as this one.

Once you know that, you can start trying to estimate how much power you'll need to carry with you. How many amps/watts, and how many hours.

Far Out Ride's conversion planning page is a great place to start they also have their pretty comprehensive electrical system page.

I use TP-Link, the ones I use also tell me what the power draw is.

TP-Link Smart Plug w/ Energy Monitoring, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant, Control your Devices from Anywhere (HS110) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC5ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sJUbAbM0XNBR3

Consider a TP-Link HS110. Smart wifi plug with energy monitoring.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Monitoring-Required-Anywhere-HS110/dp/B0178IC5ZY/

No that's a Smart Plug, TP Link HS 110 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC5ZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dual benefit with it, monitor power consumption and can power down the plug from anywhere for a hard reboot if she freezes. Rated at 1800 watts.

But yea the Mining software is sorta redundant. I just like seeing the list of cards when I boot the rig up lol. It does have shortcuts to virtual mem, auto launch app (I have mine starting a batch file to launch w/e is needed on boot)

Can you do the same thing with TP-Link?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC5ZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

your post was automatically removed as spam by reddit. you might want to try submitting a clean link in a text post.

I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC5ZY/
Not Wink compatible, and it works with it's own app. Not using it for Wink, yet, but that's the plan. I'd like to have all the network devices able to restart. The only one that I can't figure is the router. For that, I'd need a self-timing plug, because when it goes down, so does all communication.

Just did this with ping using TP-Link:https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Monitoring-Control-Anywhere-HS110/dp/B0178IC5ZY

There's a wrapper for the connection available on git hub, just Google it :).

Sure. Just get a smart plug like this so you can cycle the power when something goes wrong, and set the BIOS to boot automatically when the power comes back on.

TP-Link Smart Plug w/ Energy Monitoring, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant, Control your Devices from Anywhere (HS110) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC5ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BIOVzb7M5Q5WB

Then install the chrome remote desktop and you'll be able to log in from anywhere to get it going again.

There are certainly ways to automate the mining script, but this is the easiest.

I have a lot of different Smart outlets being used around the home. It really depends on what your use is going to be.

For a cheap outlet where space is not an issues, these from KMC have worked well for me. They are pretty dependable even in areas with weak WiFi signal and the energy monitoring is nice for things like air filters or fans.

KMC also makes a nice multi outlet plug. I personally use this to control the multiple led light strips at my garage workbench.

For anything 15A, I would say TP-Link is the way to go. These have been great for me, but the newer HS105 does have a better form factor. I have used these for my garage fridge, windows AC unit, and tools at my workbench. There is an energy monitoring variant as well, the HS110

You may see that there are a ton of the cheap round shaped smart plugs on Amazon and other sites. I have found all of these to be almost exactly the same, no matter what company they come from. They work well enough for simple devices like lamps, but they have tended to have issues in anywhere, but perfect WiFi signal areas.

Let me know if you have any questions on this or any other devices. After a few years of upgrades, I am at over 110 smart devices, so I can tell you what not to get...

You want the folks over at /r/diyelectronics and perhaps /r/DIYElectronicCircuits. One of them should be able to help you out.

I salute your desire, but you are really trying to invent the wheel here. Any of today's smart outlets have current sensing notifications pushed to your smartphone:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS110-Monitoring-Required-Assistant/dp/B0178IC5ZY

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Wi-Fi-Energy-Management-SP-2101W/dp/B00N4OBJAO

https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-s31.html

Your English is good.

I am from united states

Kasa Smart WiFi Plug w/Energy Monitoring by TP-Link - Reliable WiFi Connection, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa Echo & Google Assistant (HS110) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC5ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W7EzCbXZ2E9KR

Please be aware this is a referral link. I don't know how to link it without it being a referral. Sorry ;(

If you have smartthings, you can use a multipurpose sensor. You should be able to set it to notify you when the vibration stops.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Multipurpose-Sensor-GP-U999SJVLAAA/dp/B07F956F3B/

If you don't, you may be able to find a smart plug that monitors the amount of electricity used. It should be able to notify you when there is a change in electricity. I haven't tried this method, but it should work. Below is an example. Make sure to find a plug that can handle a washer and dryer.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS110-Monitoring-Required-Assistant/dp/B0178IC5ZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Smart+plug+to+monitor+electricity&qid=1567969750&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Tp-Link HS110 Energy Monitor for me... 30 bucks on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Monitoring-Required-Assistant-HS110/dp/B0178IC5ZY/

Edit: works with 110-220v

On my Samsung 65" if I put it in cinema mode it pulls about 800w in normal mode it's about 100w

I doubt it's the Roku, as someone else said you can get a Kill-A-Watt meter or smart plug with energy monitor I have this one it's only $22

For anything that plugs in, you can use a smart plug like this to track its energy usage. For anything hardwired, you could use a meter with a clamp like this to measure instantaneous current.

So with the plug, rotate it around the biggest appliances in the house. Keep the fridge plugged in for a day, see what the average draw is, etc.

But you are right that heating/cooling is likely to be the culprit. The clamp meter will help you gauge its impact. Despite how it seems though, a 1990's air conditioner isn't dramatically less efficient than a new one...assuming it's in good working order. Make sure the condenser outside is all clear, no leaves piled up against it, dirt clogging the fins, etc. Then inside, follow the ducts wherever you can to make sure nothing came disconnected and is dumping conditioned air into you attic or something.

If it helps as a point of reference, our 2,400 sf house has central air from the 80's that is set for 75 when we're home and 82 when we're not, and our power bill for the July-Aug cycle when we were using AC consistently was $104. We're in coastal New England/ag zone 6b.

Then as the other commenter mentioned, your power company may offer free energy consultations where they come test your house for efficiency in a variety of ways, give you free LED bulbs and programmable thermostats, and make recommendations for how to reduce energy use.

I have this. AWESOME! https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Monitoring-Required-Assistant-HS110/dp/B0178IC5ZY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518647868&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=tp+link+switch+110