Reddit Reddit reviews Kershaw Ultra-Tek Blade Sharpener (2535); 4-Inch Sharpening Steel; 600-Grit Diamond-Coated Oval Shaft; Lightweight 6061-T6 Anodized Aluminum Handle; Compact, Portable Design; 2.1 oz.

We found 5 Reddit comments about Kershaw Ultra-Tek Blade Sharpener (2535); 4-Inch Sharpening Steel; 600-Grit Diamond-Coated Oval Shaft; Lightweight 6061-T6 Anodized Aluminum Handle; Compact, Portable Design; 2.1 oz.. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Kershaw Ultra-Tek Blade Sharpener (2535); 4-Inch Sharpening Steel; 600-Grit Diamond-Coated Oval Shaft; Lightweight 6061-T6 Anodized Aluminum Handle; Compact, Portable Design; 2.1 oz.
4-inch sharpening steel stores in the handle when not in use, and features a 600-grit diamond coated oval shaftA handy, lightweight, portable knife sharpener requiring no water or oil, stores compactly and is easily taken anywhereLightweight 6061-T6 anodized aluminum with knurled texture for a secure grip during useA great companion for any knife enthusiast such as backpackers, hunters, hikers, hobbyists, anglers, home cooks, contractors, and carpentersPerfect for sharpening and realigning any Kershaw blade such as any Leek, Scallion, Clearwater Fillet series, Shuffle, Link, CQC series, and any favorite fixed blade or pocket folder
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5 Reddit comments about Kershaw Ultra-Tek Blade Sharpener (2535); 4-Inch Sharpening Steel; 600-Grit Diamond-Coated Oval Shaft; Lightweight 6061-T6 Anodized Aluminum Handle; Compact, Portable Design; 2.1 oz.:

u/Renz2LK · 4 pointsr/cosplay

It all depends on what type of builder/crafter you want to get into. Buying all the "machines" and tools for someone that would be a foamsmith but you're really a needlework kind of person makes it a potential waste of money and time (and vice versa).

IF you want to get into an overall crafting/building in general, here are the tools and materials I've gathered for my workshop:

I'm gonna put the word **Optional** for the items that are not completely necessary for first time builders, but definitely worth while down the road.

  • Breakaway blades - You can get a pack and break away the blade once it dulls or no longer sharpens.
  • Rotary cutting wheel - for quick fabric cuts https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-195210-1001-Comfort-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B000B7M8WU/
  • Kershaw Sharpening stone - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WALUV6/
  • Dremel (or rotary tool) - I've seen these go for as low as $30 for one that has 2 speeds. Since it's mostly for costuming, the 2 speeds is plenty.
  • Besides the Dremel, if you can, pick up a Belt Sander **Optional** from Harbor Frieght (particularly when it goes on sale and they issue a 20% coupon) I got mine for around $50 and it is a time saver!
  • Heat gun, I picked one up from Harbor Freight and it was under $10 at the time. It's still going strong and I have had no issues.
  • Wood Burning Tool **Optional** - This will help you add some great details on the foam. There is a good starter kit also that contains a bunch of nibs, including a soldering nib, as well as a hot knife attachment. The hot knife will cut through foam like butter. One note though, if you don't plan on getting a separate dedicated hot knife, use the one that comes w/ the kit for the finer cuts. The wood burner is a very versatile tool!
  • For the glue. I would suggest Barge Contact cement or DAP Weldwood. This is what I use and it's proven to be a great option. Hot glue is still very helpful and can be used for quick fixes or adding additional bond. My only reason for not using hot glue for foam is that it takes time to cure and you have to hold it in place. Also, sometimes it creates messy seams.
  • Kwik Seal paintable caulk or flexible spackle - to cover up the seams you can use either of these. Difference between the two, 1) the caulk needs to be smoothed out before it dries, you can use water. 2) the spackle can be sanded after it dries if you don't apply it smooth the first time.
  • On the topic of concealing seams or general sculpting, you should look into Foam Clay. It is very malleable and once cured overnight, it's basically shaped foam.
  • Mod Podge or Flexible Clear Coat spray **Optional** - To coat the finished and painted product, you will want to use something that will protect it and also be flexible. Unless, you want it to be very rigid, you can use Epsilon Pro to coat it, but I can't guarantee that it won't crack. Especially areas that will need some flex. I say this is optional because some crafters don't do clear coating.
  • Eye Protection & Mask - you don't want fine bits of foam flying into your eyes or lungs. Make sure you get eye pro and a good fine-filter respirator.
  • Sewing machine - I'm not a needlework expert, but having one is great for sewing straps, hook & loop, minor clothing, etc... Obviously if this is more your expertise, get one that you know you'll love and have great use of.
  • Cutting Mat - Useful for both the foamsmith and the needlework crafters. I've used both the Fiskars and the US Art Supply brands. Personally the US Art Supply one is way better IMO. It holds up to more cuts and abuse.

    Here are some helpful options for your search for EVA foam. Hopefully one of the stores I list here will be some-what local for you. Home Depot, Lowes, 5 Below, BJ's, Costco, Walmart, & Harbor Freight all carry the EVA (floor mat) foam. I have personally purchased and used foam from all of these locations.

  • Your standard craft foam (from craft stores like JoAnne's or Michaels) will be anywhere between 2mm - 6mm. These are great for accent pieces or adding fine details. Keep in mind anything under 8mm will need some sort of rigid structure in order to maintain a good shape for armor. (like cardboard or something) FYI - Joanne's now carries the Yaya Han branded EVA foam mats in various thicknesses.
  • Harbor Freight has 4 (24"x24") tiles for $8.99 and sometimes have an additional 20% off coupon circulating around. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. They also carry a 72" long (8mm) foam roll with a heat treated diamond patterned back for $9.99.
  • At BJ's & Costco, I've bought some from these places as well, they carry 8 (24"x24") tiles for $9.89. But people have complained of its quality. (I personally have never had any notable issues with them.) The back of their EVA foam is generally heat treated usually w/ a diamond pattern.
  • Home Depot & Lowes carries the 4 pack (25"x25") anywhere between $20 - $25. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. Though these seem fine, they are more expensive and are just like the ones at Harbor Freight.Walmart carries a 12 pack (24"x24") for around $18 - $20. The back of their EVA foam is the typical heat treated texture.
  • 5 Below carries single tiles (no packs) (multiple colors) for $5.00. Same as the others, standard heat treated texture on the other side.
  • TNT Cosplay Supply carries various sizes and thicknesses of EVA/Craft foam without the heat treatment backing. This is especially good if you don't want to have to deal with sanding down the heat treated backing to help glue adhere better. They are more expensive, but the quality is always great.

    Helpful links from the masters: Evil Ted Smith , Punished Props , Odin Makes , KamuiCosplay.

    Hope this helps.

    *note some prices are subject to change*
u/Biosnarf · 3 pointsr/cosplayers

Thanks! That Power Fist is sweet.

To get clean cuts, you just need a really sharp knife. I prefer an exteding utility knife/box cutter like this one. Then once it starts to get dull I sharpen it with this sharpener (along with some wd-40 for lubrication). Any cuts that aren't ideal can always be cleaned up with a dremel/rotary tool though.

u/KibaOkami · 3 pointsr/cosplay

I want to toss up a few helpful youtube channels before putting in any of my own learned experiences.
Punished Props, EvilTed, and Kamui Cosplay all have really good videos on tools, what they are good for, good techniques, how to make and use patterns, etc. I've watched tons of these videos and have learned so much from them.


I do my best to digitally size patterns to my height or arm length, or whatever the template is for.

Beveled edges in foam aren't too difficult. Just take a really sharp knife and cut. You can take a pen and mark where you want it to be hold your knife at the right angle, and maintain the angle while you cut. Please, feel free to practice bevels on scrap foam. You'll get better as you do it.
https://youtu.be/FnVdDso3E1I

On the top of cutting foam! Get a good sharpener to save on blades!
I don't know how familiar you are with foam work yet, but after a few cuts your blade will begin to dull, and your cuts won't be as smooth.
I can't recommend this enough.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WALUV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SMALDbKXB5112

This Kershaw sharpener has made my utility knife (the kind with the snap away segments) last YEARS. 100% worth the $12.

u/up9rade · 3 pointsr/ArtisanVideos

I thought the same thing.

Usually, my blade just needs to be honed a bit and I do that by running the edge on anything else metal that I have. While not the best method, it works when you're somewhere remote.

I own something similar to this and it does travel with me to other countries, but I I probably won't be carrying a sharpening stone with my anytime soon when I'm out in the field.

u/cvc75 · 1 pointr/cosplayers

Yes! I thought my utility knife was still sharp, but after using the Kershaw sharpener Ted recommends, my foam cuts came out so much cleaner.