Reddit Reddit reviews KESTER SOLDER 24-6040-0027 Wire Solder, 0.031"Dia., Pack of (1)

We found 16 Reddit comments about KESTER SOLDER 24-6040-0027 Wire Solder, 0.031"Dia., Pack of (1). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Tools & Home Improvement
Welding Equipment
Welding Equipment & Accessories
Welding & Soldering
KESTER SOLDER 24-6040-0027 Wire Solder, 0.031
Country Of Origin: Taiwan, Province Of ChinaModel Number: 32117Item Package Dimension: 4.0" L x 3.0" W x 3.0" HItem Package Weight: 1.08 lb
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16 Reddit comments about KESTER SOLDER 24-6040-0027 Wire Solder, 0.031"Dia., Pack of (1):

u/hansmoman · 7 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'll just give you a list of the items I've been using (and like):

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18-D08-D12-D24-D32/dp/B00C1N30DI Hakko FX-888D. The extra tips may be unnecessary, I only ever use the one chisel tip

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJPO Leaded solder

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPGFT8 Brushes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K Side cutters

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2 Flux

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2 Solder Wick

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HT2QW KimWipes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B5JT8C Isopropyl Alcohol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CU56KM Acetone spray (use carefully/sparingly)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G5T9M0 Jewelers loupe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019SLLOMY Tweezers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8Z4RPG Hot air station (works well despite Chinesium)

Also, I noticed in Dave's videos he rarely adds flux, just the flux that's built into the multicore solder. I don't know if I'm alone on this one but with flux I always felt the bigger the glob the better the job. Just have to clean it afterwards with the solvent, tissues & brushes.

Edit: Okay that's a much bigger list than I thought, this stuff can get expensive!

u/arcsecond · 5 pointsr/DIY

So, what's the difference between this sort of solder that has the flux separate and the electronics type solder that I'm more familiar with used with a soldering iron?

u/ambelie · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

These are all pretty solid Personally I'm a fan of Aoyue's products too, though both the units I've owned have been on the expensive side, I can link those if you're interested. For solder, I always use this stuff, it works great for switches and stuff like that and is small enough to work alright for SMD work.

u/seraine · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I typically use 60 40 0.031 lead solder, which is cheaply available from amazon, including prime. One of these spools will last a very long time for only $30. These tubes are available for smaller quantities.

The main concern with solder is the flux fumes, which are actually worse with higher temperatures and lead free solder. One simple solution to solder fumes is a pc fan with some sort of filter on it, such as this one. I made one for around $4, and it works very well. It also helps to mount it on some sort of arm, such as solid copper wire or one of these. There are many types of fume extractors that would work.

As for the soldering iron, I use a weller wes51, but a hakko fx888 is also good.

u/crb3 · 3 pointsr/diypedals

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421246616&sr=8-1&keywords=kester+44+rosin+core+solder

I've been soldering for decades and I have never found a lead-bearing solder that worked better overall. I use 0.031" for through-hole work, 0.020" or even 0.015" for SMD and touch-up. The flux is fast-acting enough that I can use Weller 800F tips and a quick-in-quick-out soldering technique, completing the joint before the heat can spread far. In any case, you get best results when you touch the tip of the solder to the junction of iron and wire, aimed such that the flux spits straight into the joint as it boils.

add: Using 63/37 rather than 60/40, you minimize the paste period where the lead has chilled but the tin is molten, thus reducing the chances of a cold solder joint due to movement.
> The 63/37 is a eutectic alloy, which:
>
> 1. has the lowest melting point (183 °C or 361 °F) of all the tin/lead alloys; and
> 2. the melting point is truly a point — not a range.

-- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

Good background info: http://www.kester.com/knowledge-base/faq/

u/nolotusnotes · 3 pointsr/datingoverthirty

Don't use the new solder. It's crap. Use real lead/tin 60/40 solder. Thankfully, Amazon has us covered.

https://www.amazon.com/KESTER-SOLDER-24-6040-0027-Stand-Diameter/dp/B00068IJPO/ref=pd_lpo_201_tr_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W9A6T0888VBDR9442A5N

That teleporter is halfway built!

u/kieoui · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use 67g zilents and they are pretty good. I like them. Personally, I'm currently using T1 switches, but these are pretty loud.

As for soldering, what equipment do you have right now? All you need is a steady hand, a good soldering iron/station and lots of patience.

And make you sure you have the right solder too - this is highly recommended - it's thin solder (0.031 inch diameter) - and 60/40 - do not get lead-free solder. it just doesn't work as well

https://www.amazon.com/KESTER-SOLDER-32117-24-6040-0027-Diameter/dp/B00068IJPO/

u/frank_n_bean · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yep! This is the solder that I use, but 1 lb. of it is definitely a lot for 1 board... I've soldered 8 boards since I bought it and still have a decent amount of it left.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'd suggest:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AS28UC

Plus a smaller tip:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BSP4K

Weller is a highly trusted brand and buying a variable one means you'll likely never need another soldering iron for any job.

Other items:

Solder itself

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00068IJPO

In case you mess up:

Either a solder sucker

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GIPKOW

or solder wick


Nice but not needed(since that iron comes with a sponge):


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPGDLA

u/ns90 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Like others have said, unfortunately, yeah it's dead, but don't let that get you down! My first desoldered job, I did some serious butchery to the board. Luckily I was able to fix it so that it's functional, but it ain't pretty. But now I have no problems with desoldering. Like /u/anthonyooiszewen said, it could have been a few things. Definitely make sure you use a good leaded solder. I, personally, like this stuff. Next, definitely make sure you have a soldering iron with temperature control, and DO NOT RUN IT TOO HOT. Lastly, do yourself a favor, and get one of these.

u/cexshun · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If I had nothing and wanted to purchase decent quality stuff but still being affordable, I'd do the following.

Multimeter $45

Soldering Station $38

Solder $25

Desoldering Pump $6

If this is the only time you ever plan on soldering, then you can get away with the cheap stuff. You could probably source some of it locally for cheaper. None of this is great quality, but it will do the job for a 1 time project. While I wouldn't enjoy it, I could build an Ergodox with the following setup.

Desoldering Pump $6

Multimeter $13

Solder $9

Soldering Iron $8

Iron Holder $6

u/MeatTowel · 1 pointr/ender3

I'm using Kester solder with flux in it, is that fine? This is what I soldered my Ergodox Infinity with.

u/Ghigs · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

0.6 to 0.8 mm (0.031 inch)

Can't go wrong with kester 60/40. 63/37 is slightly better but 60/40 is fine.

https://www.amazon.com/KESTER-SOLDER-32117-24-6040-0027-Diameter/dp/B00068IJPO/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=solder&qid=1572723893&sr=8-6