Reddit Reddit reviews KING 1566 K-80#250#1000 WHET STONE, One Size, Brown

We found 25 Reddit comments about KING 1566 K-80#250#1000 WHET STONE, One Size, Brown. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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KING 1566 K-80#250#1000 WHET STONE, One Size, Brown
250 grit extra coarse on one side and 1000 grit medium on the otherKING brand known for quality and affordabilityStone size: 8" x 2" x 1"Two stones in one saves money
Check price on Amazon

25 Reddit comments about KING 1566 K-80#250#1000 WHET STONE, One Size, Brown:

u/captaincaed · 30 pointsr/fountainpens

I want to throw my hat in for the Lamy Safari - hear me out. Cost, flexibility and customization is the name of the game.

First, it's cheaply available. You can grab one from Amazon for $20, and each new nib is about $13. Converters are $4.50. Plus, there are so damn many floating around, replacement parts are never far away. So if you snap the body in a car door (too personal?) you can buy a new body cheaply and have all your nibs still work.

Second, the flexibility (not the nibs, obviously, they're stiffer than a preacher's peter). Each new nib makes it a whole new pen. The fine nib is great for notes, the broad nib gives you nice shading for those particular inks. Each of the different calligraphy nibs offers a completely different writing experience as well. The nibs are really easy to change on and off, as well as being portable and pretty durable. They're well made and write smoothly for the most part, though they do leave a little to be desired. But, you can fix that! So, onto....

Third, customization. I just started grinding my own Lamy nibs just to muck about. I mean hey, did you get into fountain pens because you just want something that JUST writes when you pick it up? Bic figured that out already; they really work great but that's not why we're all here. We're here for greater understanding and appreciation of craftsmanship. There's nothing mystical about these nibs, and as cheap as they are you can afford to experiment. It could be as simple as just making a sharper edge on a calligraphy nib to make better italics (my most recent project) - you have no idea how much better your normal, crappy old handwriting will look when you slap a 1.1mm calligraphy nib on your pen - it's like bringing out your inner Tolkien that you never knew was there! Or you could just slim down a fine nib to take super tiny notes on a notecard before a physics exam (my first project). The point is, it puts you in the driver's seat and it really doesn't take long. Sit down for half an hour, work carefully, stand up with a new pen.

Protip: throw nibs in a contact lens case, take them everywhere.

Check out this page on grinding for some basics on making your own experimental nibs (http://www.marcuslink.com/pens/aboutpens/ludwig-tan.html), then check out this inexpensive knife stone, which will work great for both rough shaping and medium polishing (http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Combination-Knife-Sharpening-Stone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1420394243&sr=8-10&keywords=1000+grit+combination+stone). For final smoothing, I'm pretty sure the standard Goulet micro-mesh paper will be great, though I haven't gotten around to buying one myself (http://www.gouletpens.com/GPC-Micro-Mesh/p/GPC-Micro-Mesh).

I've been playing around like this for a while now. What I've gotten is a greater appreciation for well made, expensive retail pens. I've also gotten better at spotting crap. Once you've played around with your own pen, you'll know what you're looking at when you go to buy vintage pens in the future. You'll understand the basics, and then can make an informed decision. The best bang for your buck will be not making a bad purchase in the first place. Start cheap, work up.

Now that I've wasted everyone's time and all my wind, I do have to say the Metropolitan is a fiiiiiine pen, quite sturdy and writes like a champ every time. So there's that.

TL;DR I think customizing cheap nibs is a great way to start, but the Metropolitan is sturdy and writes as well/better than many pens three times its cost. The TWSBI has interchangeable nibs as well, is more upscale and you can tell the difference. The Vanishing Point is great, I have two, but the ink tends to dry out more quickly then in my other pens, and the new nibs definitely have a premium attached - they were $25 when I was in college, now they're $65 and the pen itself hasn't changed price. That ticks me off.

Edit Crappy spelling and a couple other thoughts that bubbled to the surface.

u/akotlya1 · 11 pointsr/Survival

No. Learning to sharpen is tricky enough and these just complicate things by forcing you to maintain a relative angle between the knife and abrasive while both are moving.

I recently went through the exercise of teaching one of my friends how to sharpen his knives and he tried to skimp on getting a stone(net savings: $6). The stone he got was too soft and didnt cut well at all but at least it was a bench stone; meaning it was a stone you set on your counter top.

I strongly recommend getting a dual grit king waterstone.
This is a good example of a good starter stone:
https://www.amazon.com/KING-1000-Grit-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1498550018&sr=8-7&keywords=king+stone

Eventually you will want another one that is higher grit to get a better polish and to flatten your other stone, but for now this will meet your needs for learning.

u/f1del1us · 6 pointsr/EDC

I'd recommend two pieces for your knife maintenance. A waterstone, for sharpening. And a ceramic honer. I also use two cheap mercer knife guards to keep the edges safe when transporting. With a bit of practice you can get scary sharp edges from a waterstone, just make sure you keep a very consistent angle.

u/northstar223 · 5 pointsr/Chefit

I like King Brand Japanese waterstones like this but really you need to take a look for yourself. Same with knives. Look for something that is comfortable to hold and feels natural in your hand, in my opinion that is far better than to just look at brands and then look up reviews about: How quickly will it dull? How hard is it to sharpen? Price? Stuff like that.

u/blueandroid · 4 pointsr/Cooking

I do a lot of sharpening, and have used many kinds of stones, jigs, and gadgets. Many of the jigs and gadgets are junk, or slow, or high-maintenance.
For basic kitchen knife maintenance, it's worth it to learn to sharpen freehand with inexpensive waterstones. If you want to spend more money for better tools, spend it on nice big diamond stones. Don't spend money on sharpening machines, jigs, or gadgets. My personal sharpening setup is three 3x8 EZE-Lap diamond stones (Coarse, fine, and super-fine), and a leather strop with chromium oxide buffing powder. With this I can turn pretty much any piece of steel into a long-lasting razor blade. EZE-lap makes some nice double-sided diamond stones too that look great for kitchen use. Knife steels have their place (touch-ups between real sharpenings), but are not a complete solution on their own, and can be bypassed entirely.

For knives, anything that's not super low-end is good. It should feel great when held correctly. Most home cooks who've spent $200 on a fancy chef's knife would be just as well off with something like a $55 Henckel's Classic. Knives like that are good steel, easy to sharpen and easy to use. Most good knives require thoughtful maintenance. If someone needs a cook's knife but will not take good care of it, get them a Victorinox Fibrox. They're cheap, good-enough knives with handles that can survive the dishwasher. I also like knives from Wüsthof, Global, Shun, Mac, and many others. Modern knives are mostly excellent. As long as you avoid ultra-cheap options and exotic gimmicks, it's easy to go right.

u/FUS_ROALD_DAHL · 3 pointsr/food

Awesome! Thank you so much. This is the stone I have. I plan to practice on a cheaper knife (OXO chef's), is there any possible detriment to the stone, other than applying too much pressure? And do you feel that obtaining a 3000 grit is necessary for average kitchen duty, or is 1000 enough?

u/corrado33 · 3 pointsr/cookingforbeginners

Thank you so much for taking the time to write out all of that information. I'll try to find a cooking store around here and go ask about knives and maybe some cutting boards as well. :)

As for sharpening, do yourself a favor and throw away those auto sharpeners. They suck. They work for like 2-3 sharpenings then they don't do crap. (I'm talking about the ones with where you hold it on the counter and pull the blade through a "V" slot.)

Seriously though, go buy yourself some stones. They're not expensive and they'll last a lifetime.

I have this stone

https://www.amazon.ca/KING-1000-Grit-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521472898&sr=1-16&keywords=combination

And this stone

https://www.amazon.ca/Japanese-King-Knife-Sharpener-Whetstone/dp/B003Q377K4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521473012&sr=1-1&keywords=king+6000

They're like sandpaper. Start with the coarse stone and move your way up to the higher grits.

You don't have to be perfect when sharpening knives, but you DO have to be consistent. Your angle doesn't need to be perfect, you just need to have the SAME angle every time. I only got good at sharpening when I stopped TRYING to control the angle, and I just started trying doing the exact same motion over and over again. 15 passes on one side, then 15 on the other with the coarse stone. Eventually you'll feel a burr on the opposite side of the edge. At that point, you do 1-2 passes on the side with the burr. Then move up to the next grit. 15-20 passes here on one side, then the other, then move to the next grit. As for technique, I like the "push away" technique. Since knives have two sides, that generally means that on one side I'm pushing the knife INTO the stone, and on the other I'm pulling the knife across the stone. it doesn't matter, as long as you're consistent. (But be careful pushing the knife into the stone, you can and will cut a chunk off of the stone if you push too hard or get the angle wrong.)

Before you sharpen, fill the sink with water and let the stones sit in the water for 5 minutes. Keep them wet when you sharpen. (I usually will re-wet after 20 passes. It's less about keeping it wet and more about removing the steel/stone particles from the stone itself). (Some people like to use oil, I like to use water, it doesn't matter really.)

I will admit I had to do something like 80-100 passes (20 at a time) on EACH SIDE of my main chef's knife because it was dull as hell (because of sharpening with one of those auto sharpeners.), but in the end, it was the one to cut me :(

A couple of hints:

If you shine a light/the sun on the sharp edge of the blade, you should NOT see a bright reflection on the very sharp edge. If you see light reflecting, that means you have a flat/dull spot, and you should keep sharpening.

If you want to know if you have a decent angle or not, color the edge of your blade with permanent marker (don't worry, you can clean it off afterward with rubbing alcohol/nail polish remover (uh... be careful when you do that... that was how I got cut.)) Since the edge of your blade has ink on it, when you try to sharpen it, only the bit that you're grinding off will be shiny (since you removed that bit of ink). That way you can tell if the angle you're using is too shallow (not hitting the edge of the blade) or too steep (kinda... flattening the blade edge.) If you just do your best to match what was there (all of the ink on the edge surface is removed) you'll be fine. Again, not perfection, just consistency. Eventually you'll figure out what kind of edge you like (super sharp but not durable, or more shallow but more durable.) Also, certain steels like certain edges better. Nice steels tend to be able to hold a super sharp (shallow) edge for longer periods of time, where cheap steels will not be able to hold a super shallow edge at all, so you have to sharpen them with a steeper angle so that there is more "metal" on the edge. (With cheap steels, if you try to sharpen them super super sharp, the edge will just break off.)

Last hint. Eventually, if you use the stones enough. They'll get worn down. They will no longer be flat, and this is a problem. The way to fix it is to buy a diamond sharpening stone. Some people actually use these to sharpen knives, but I don't like them for that purpose. Now, these are more expensive than the stones themselves, but you probably won't need them for a while. Basically you just use them to flatten your stones. Just put them on top of the stone and rub back and forth. Eventually your stone will be flat and ready to sharpen again.

https://www.amazon.ca/DMT-D8C-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Diamond/dp/B0001WP1L0/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521473952&sr=1-13&keywords=diamond+stone+sharpener

Anyway, if you do choose to try to use stones. Just keep trying. You won't do well on your first knife, or your second, or your third. Sharpen your shitty knives until you can do those well, then go after your nice knives. It took me probably 2 years of using the stones (probably every 3-4 months) to get to a point where I can say "yeah, those are sharp."

u/doublegreek · 2 pointsr/smoking

I use a King 250/1000 and a strop with some buffing compound.


u/goldragon · 2 pointsr/Wet_Shavers

Does your King combo stone look like this? Cause I started out with one and it is ssssllllllloooooooowwwwwwwwwwww........ Like I could spend hours on it and never set a proper bevel.

Best advice I can give you is throw the damn thing out and get something else. I went with a Shapton Pro 1k which was nice and certainly did the job but it had a chalky texture to the feedback that I didn't really like. Then I upgraded to the Chosera 1k and it has been fucking amazing. There is a reason everyone (literally everyone) who hones razors for a living uses a Chosera 1k for bevel setting, the thing is smooth and huge and heavy and cuts fast without cutting too fast and can produce an armhair-chopping edge in short order, even can remove micro-chips with a little time and effort.

I would use the King 1000 sometimes to smooth out the edge before going to the higher grits, back when I still used the Shapton Pro, but I don't even do that now that I have the Chosera and I think I sold the King combo stone. I think I warned the buyer about it being a slow cutter, or at least I hope I did lol.

u/test18258 · 2 pointsr/sharpening

There are tons of stones out there and most of them will work for you. I would recommend starting out with a hard stone that isnt going to dish. That way you wont have to worry about flattening or regrinding the stone. Personally I would recommend this as a beginner stone that is still very high quality and inexpensive. Its an oil stone so you will need mineral oil or something similar with it. The spyderco ceramics are also great stones as they essentially never wear out.

If your set on getting waterstones I would say for the fibrox to not go much past 2k grit. The king deluxe stones are good, the shapton ha no kuromaku stones are also good and much harder making them a little easier to learn on. I would recommend against getting something like naniwa professional/chosera or shapton glass to start mainly because of the price.

The honing rod is fine I personally dont use them but thats more of a personal preference thing. I would rather use a benchstone than a honing rod. However a honing rod can help maintain your edge and quickly touch up the knife. Using a honing rod you can keep a knife sharp for quite a while before needing to sharpen it again. Which is great if you have your knives sharpened by a professional not quite as important if you do it yourself and your knives arent super expensive.

A leather strop can help quite a bit when you are first starting out to help remove burrs, and do minor touch ups between sharpenings. If you want to get really good a strop will end up being more of a crutch that lets you get away with not properly deburring the knife edge.

​

a good tutorial video https://youtu.be/2Vu6Dq00v7I

ceramic stone

spyderco medium benchstone

waterstones

king deluxe 1000 grit

king 250/1000 combo

shapton ha no kuromaku stones reccommend 320 and either 1500 or 2k for these.

​

There are also arkansas stones which are great I would suggest getting the soft arkansas stone and using that as a finishing stone.

u/falicor · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

Get a 250/1000 waterstone and you can use it to sharpen a $1000 Japanese steel kitchen knife or a $20 pocket knife and everything in between.

Most other things posted here chew off ALOT of steel and aren't the best choice. I use these professionally in the kitchen, and I use them for sharpening even my axes at home.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

Non-mobile: 250/1000 waterstone

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/KhanMan15 · 1 pointr/Woodcarving

I started with this then got one of these for removing larger chunks.
*note the irwin one comes with a factory edge meaning it will need to be sharpened...so you'll need one of these and this to get that baby super sharp. then run it over the flat part of this and you'll be in like Flynn.

Also the flexcut slip strop if used every 20 minutes of carving (with any tool) will keep the edges super sharp for longer, meaning you dont have to go to the harsh stone right away. Also, note, when using the stone, to soak for at least 20 minutes before using. There are plenty of great youtube videos out there teaching proper sharpening technique for all sorts of tools with Water stones.

I'd also suggest a wooden mallet and a larger heavier one, or I just use a rubber mallet. Also while you're at it, grab a coping saw to remove large areas of unwanted wood. Make sure you have a vice to hold your wood or some sort of block device.

I'm still waiting on my carving knives from Here. They have a back order of 6-8 weeks! I got a straight (sloyd) knife and a hook knife for spoon carving and such.

So far that's where I'm at. Hope that helps.

u/Nihilate_ · 1 pointr/chefknives

King makes a 250/1000 even cheaper than their 1/6k. I haven't found many thoughts on it from knife nerds though.

I'd check out some offerings from toolsfromjapan (if you can wait a bit). There are some cheap Suehiro combination stones in suitable grits.

u/Insaniaksin · 1 pointr/knives

Would something like this do?

I want to sharpen my Kershaw Camber (S30V steel) I want it to be really sharp but not too expensive. I'm talking like I'll spend $20 on a sharpener. Do you have any suggestions?

u/zakttayr · 1 pointr/Chefit

I've been using this for years now and it does the trick.

u/ming3r · 1 pointr/chefknives

A pretty cheap and reliable one I've been using is this King 250/1000 one. $20, 1000 gets me by (and I just picked up another King 6000 just because why not...)

https://www.amazon.com/KING-1000-Grit-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1500401531&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=king+350+wetstone

u/CSharpSauce · 1 pointr/woodworking
u/shroom_throwaway9722 · 1 pointr/CampingGear

The Condor Bushlore is a great inexpensive knife. Carbon steel, full tang, etc. The old ones were not that great but there have been many improvements so the new ones are a fantastic value. You can baton firewood with it all day long. Get a knife pro to put a Scandi grind on it and you'll be set for a long time.

Secondly, get a set of Japanese water stones and learn how to use them.

Even the most expensive unobtanium-carbon quantum hattori hanzo japanese nanosteel knife can be ruined by improper maintenance (e.g. pull-through carbide blade destroyers).

Start with 1000 grit. You can also get 800 grit for fixing chips and other damage. The K-80 is a good starter set. If you want to sharpen your kitchen knives 'shaving sharp' then pick up an additional 4000/6000 grit stone for fine polishing.

Search /r/bushcraft for further knife and sharpening advice.

u/commodore_nate · 1 pointr/woodworking

The bottom budget (or lowest you could go without blaming your sharpening equipment for failure) would be a Norton combination India stone or King combination water stone, plus some honing compound and a scrap of denim or leather glued to a block of wood for a strop.

Use a honing guide like this if you aren't comfortable trying free hand.

A tool is sharp when two surfaces (the back/face and bevel) meet at a sharp corner with ~0 radius. The edge is honed/refined on finer and finer stones to get a better surface finish and better edge retention.

Here are some tutorials with and without a honing guide. I recommend watching both, because each covers a different aspect of initial chisel prep.

On top of your sharpening equipment, work from both sides and use knife lines to prevent blow out.

u/mister_wizard · 1 pointr/AskNYC

I asked this same thing and found a ton of good write ups on doing it yourself. If you have some cheap knives to sharpen or practice on its kind of an enjoyable thing to do. I practices on some super cheap knives and got them REALLY sharp.

http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Combination-Knife-Sharpening-Stone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_4?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1411070704&sr=1-4&keywords=king+whetstone

This, some water and a rag. I know this doesnt answer your question, but i figured i would throw it out there anyway. I do have one Global knife that i am afraid to mess with that needs a lot of work....i think that one i will actually take to a specialist.