Reddit Reddit reviews KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit

We found 51 Reddit comments about KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Electronics
Car Electronics Accessories
Car Audio & Video Installation Products
Car Amplifier Installation Products
Car & Vehicle Electronics
KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit
18 Feet 4 Gauge Ultra Flex Blue KCA Power Wire3 Feet 4 Gauge Ultra Flex Black KCA Ground WireOne inline fuse holder with 80A AGU FuseOne 17 Foot Black Bassik RCA Cable made from Oxygen Free Copper (OFC)20 Feet TCA 14 Gauge CCA Speaker Wire
Check price on Amazon

51 Reddit comments about KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit:

u/praetor- · 9 pointsr/CarAV

With the dual 2 ohm sub your wiring options are either a 4 ohm or 1 ohm final load. That amp can't handle a 1 ohm load and will only deliver 300w at 4 ohms. Get the dual 4 ohm version of the sub and wire the coils in parallel for a final load of 2 ohms.

Get this amp kit. The Scosche kit would probably work but there's a chance the wire isn't true 8 gauge and if that's true it might not handle the load. Also, the Knu kit is cheaper, better quality, and will carry more current.

u/[deleted] · 9 pointsr/CarAV

You're getting got. Let's do some quick math:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45521_Alpine-SWR-12D4.html

160

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12018_Alpine-MRP-M500.html

200

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII

27

160+200+27 dollars is 387. Build your own box. But if not...http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7498_Belva-Sub-Box-1SV12G-Gray.html

44 dollars....for a grand total of 431...give or take.

I'd buy each part online...its much cheaper.

u/BossmanR · 5 pointsr/CarAV

I would go for 2 of These Subs with This Amp and This Wiring Kit.

u/lpbman · 4 pointsr/CarAV

Pioneer Hu

Front speakers

Rear speakers

5 channel amp

Subwoofer


Sub box

Bettah cheapah fastah strongah

Edit: Amp kit No Walmart boss crap, that amplifier wants up to 80 amps.

u/Bwdzxc · 4 pointsr/CarAV

Fellow teenager that listens to ignorant rap music, I am here for you. Your best bet would probably be [these] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34873_Rockford-Fosgate-P2-2X12-11P2-2X12.html) for subs. No box building, good brand, and they get loud. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-BRX1100-1D-Vehicle-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00BHSTTLU) is the amp that will power them. Hifonics Brutus are a great budget amp and will do rated power, and they don't look to bad either. Then you will also need a [wiring kit] (http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395018711&sr=1-1&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge) to connect everything. The last question I have to ask you is, do you have a aftermarket head unit?

u/Emiliak · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Your subwoofer is 4 ohms and can handle 300W RMS, so you need an amp that can put out 300W RMS @ 4 ohms. I own the Alpine MRP-M500 and it runs like a champ. That matches your spec exactly. Don't cheap out with something from Boss or Pyle, they lie about their specs. Power it with a KnuKonceptz 4AWG kit and you'll have gauge to spare if you decide to upgrade in the future.

u/out18law18 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

To keep to your budget.....yes on the sub with box. No on the rest. Try this wiring kit and spend the remaining sixtyish dollars on the best 300 watt mono amp you can find on Craigslist. Kicker, alpine, Rockford etc. It will prob sound pretty decent and be as cheap as possible.

u/Bezzle59 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Personally, I still wouldn't go with a powered sub. I'd just make the subwoofer itself easily removable. That said, you don't need too much to get some good sound.

  1. Amp

  2. Sub

  3. Box

  4. Wiring

    To make the sub safely and easily removable, you can just use a couple of these (male and female versions) inline with your speaker wire to the sub.
u/klevenisms204 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

i think you can get a better subwoofer, but thats just my opinion..

but in answering your question of what wires... may as well just go with that knukonceptz 4 ga kit ...

u/Myrtal · 2 pointsr/CarAV

You want an amp that can deliver 500W RMS of power at 2 ohms. Like this Rockford Fosgate R500X1D.

And here's a good 4 gauge wiring kit.

u/derpotologist · 2 pointsr/CarAV

That alternator is almost certainly an 80amp, which is good for something like 800 watts RMS (1100watts minus whatever your car uses). I have a car, same make, similar year.. I've got 2 12s and the front components are amped, something like 1000 watts RMS, the lights dim when I bump it hard but it's enough to rattle the trunk, vibrate the rear-view mirror and host a smallish beach party (50 people maybe?)

If you want to go full on SPL you'll need at least $500 for a new alternator... but with what you have, you could focus on sound quality, have something that sounds great and still gets loud enough to blow your eardrums out without breaking the bank

What I did:

Hand-me-down amps and subs. I'm running probably 400 watts RMS or so on the 2 subs.. yeah, really low, but you can really feel it and it shakes the hell out of the trunk. I have hearing damage from a previous system so not-insanely-loud works well for me

Per the recommendation of this sub, I skipped out on rear speakers and spent the budget on the fronts and sound deadening. This is the way to go. I bought the Morel Maximos... after reading a ton they seem like the best sounding speaker you can get under $300... and they only cost $150 for the pair. Look at the recommendations on the wiki for a good budget amp to power them. I've got ~100watts RMS to them, and they get fucking loud (and clear!)

Spend some money on sound deadening.. you'll need it. Road noise brings the signal-to-noise ratio way down, making it harder to hear your music, harder to hear details, and harder on your ears. I bought the Noico 80 mil on Amazon, $60 was enough to do both front door panels and probably will be enough for the rear too. This video gets posted a lot and will give you an idea of what you need to do. I didn't go as far as he did, but followed the concepts and it made a massive difference. Eventually I'd like to add some MLV for more sound-proofing

I come from a pro audio / studio engineering background as well.. you know the saying, spend 1/2 the budget on room treatment, that's probably about right in the car world too.

So for final budget:

$150 for Morel Maximo you'll appreciate this thread, it's an audio engineer's review of the Maximo vs several other components, this is what sold me and I love mine

$60 for Noico 80 mil sound deadener

$?? for MLV.. maybe $100?

$?? - Look on the wiki for a budget 5 channel amp... I'm running 2 amps, takes more connectors, more wire, more cost, but I already had the 2 amps. There seems to be some great amps out there now that are budget friendly, but I'm not familiar with them. Consult the wiki. You could run the components off the head unit but it wouldn't be much more to amplify them properly and it'll make a massive difference in output quality

$30 - Depending on the length of your cable run and your power requirements, you'll probably need a 4 gauge wire kit (do calculate this before buying), get the one from KnuKonceptz they're a great bang-for-buck and the cheapest wire that's actually rated for what it is. (for instance, Boss wire is thick but it's all insulation and not copper)

And for bonus, get a DSP so you can flatten out the EQ in your car.. cars are a lot harder to EQ than rooms because they have so many different nodes. Dayton is about to release theirs for $150, and if you have a calibration mic you're set, if not NADY's CM-100 is a $60 calibration mic and you'll take the car to the next level. You could keep it and re-tune on your next car. My car sounds lovely without DSP but I plan on adding it when I get some more funds... this is easy to upgrade and add later on, just pop it in the signal chain

And one last pro tip: Run your RCAs away from all power sources so you don't pick up that annoying alternator whine. I ran mine through the center of the car, but you should be able to run it on one side of the car and the amp wires on the other

Hope this helps. I'm just a musician/engineer who knows a little bit about car audio, been dipping my feet in a bit more lately, but by far an expert. There's a lot of professional car audio guys around here that can help out more if you have any more questions

</wall>

u/Troniar24 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Here buy this: http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426718853&sr=8-1&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge

Make sure the power wire from the positive battery is fused within a foot or two of the battery. Secondly, make sure the ground or negative is to a bolt that has the paint sanded off. With the car running, check the voltage between the two points and make sure it reads around 14.3 volts to be sure you have a decent connection. Finally the thing that stores power is called a capacitor. It has it's place in certain areas of car audio, but you don't have to worry about it at this point and would advise against spending the money on one. Youtube has plenty of videos on how to properly crimp/solder your wire, as well as hook up amps, subs, etc.

u/Cheedweed · 2 pointsr/CarAV

No, BOSS is not a brand you want to spend money on. They tend to make low quality products.

This kit is a little more, but it is worlds better than the Boss one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_znGTub0NAJSBX

Also, this kit comes with an 80A fuse. You will want to buy one that is around 40A. You can get one at a local auto parts store, or wherever really. They are abundant.

u/cronson · 2 pointsr/CarAV

I like this article. If you go sealed, it's very easy. Ported will provide more output, but you need to know exactly how long/wide your port should be for your subwoofer.

As to what to look for, with any sub and amp, RMS power is all that matters. Stick with name brands you know. Although these aren't phenomenal or anything, with your budget you'll probably be looking for Pioneer, Kicker, Kenwood, Alpine, MTX, Sony, Rockford, JL. Stay away from Boss or anything that's like Boss (designed by a 14 year old boy/only lists peak output).

Lastly, you do need wires to hook all this up. Here's an example. I would recommend that brand unless you wanted to just buy welding wire through a local electrician store (it's the same stuff but cheaper). Everyone around here would recommend 4 gauge, but if you want to do 8 gauge, it'll be perfectly fine (I doubt you're going to end up running a lot of power).

u/marsrover001 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

According to this subreddit, you don't want the link posted above/below this. Oxygen free copper is the only wire to ever think of using. CarAV approved wiring harness

Also, never buy from wallmart.

u/BKlaczak · 2 pointsr/Wake

I have an extremely similar setup in my 1999 Ski Nautique, minus the tower. I would have loved help picking out equipment/installing, but didn't have any available, so had to learn as I went.

Head Unit - I basically got the older version of this. Make sure what you get has 6 pre-outs Head Unit $120

Amp - Go with a 5 channel amp to save space, I bought this one Polk 5 Channel $280

Speakers - 2 sets of these, which sound incredibly clear Polk 6.5 $250

Sub - I put together a sub from components. You will need sub, box, and grill. I'll link the sub I got but don't remember the box or grill. Went with 10 inch to save space, but it sounds great and is clear/sloud. Sub Around $120

Speaker Wire - Went with 14 guage, not sure what others would recommend here Wire $25

Amp Kit - Not sure what difference is between grades with these Kit $33

Basically, I had about the same budget, and it came to about $800-$900, I think prices have changed a bit since then.
I really went with clarity over loudness because I can't stand turning up the radio and hearing distortion, but this setup is both clear and very loud. I have gotten a lot of compliments on it.

To add tower speakers later you will probably need another amp, and maybe an alternator, not totally sure on that, if someone else has more advice.

Let me know if you have any questions, and hope this helps. Good luck!

u/lumberjack_dan · 2 pointsr/BuildaCarAVForMe

$120 Pionner shallow sub This is a highly sensitive sub so its should sound great for your truck.
$100 Pioneer amp This is a 2 channel amp, Use this amp in bridged mode to get the full 450 watts for your sub.
$27 4 gauge amp kit

If you have aftermarket head unit with amp pre out the installation will be easier. Hope this helps

u/FeedUsMcFetus · 1 pointr/CarAV

It's true, I just picked this one up Knu Konceptz

u/vanquish421 · 1 pointr/CarAV

I'm in the same position as you, and just posted about this yesterday. The set-up below is likely the best you're going to get on a budget, and it comes out to a few bucks shy of $400 after shipping (only one item isn't eligible for free super-saver shipping). This is what I'm going with, and I think I'll be more than happy with it.

Sub

Box

Amp

Wiring

Control Knob

Grille (not necessary, but smart)

u/Connorb21 · 1 pointr/BuildaCarAVForMe

Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.

And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html

I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.

u/PM_Me_Halloween_Pics · 1 pointr/CarAV

OP, help out your future self and do this all at once. Replace your speakers, wire in your amplifier all in the same weekend. Make sure to use 4gauge for your power wire in case you want to add a sub in the future. Your budget is a little tight, don't ignore the cost of good quality cables (I just installed these this past weekend).

u/therus · 1 pointr/CarAV

i did a bit of research last night, and i think ive found a suitable replacement. I dont really want to build my own box, so im going to buy a fully built one. heres what i found last night:

Sub Amp

Sub

Amp wiring kit

Is this stuff better/going to work? im thinking ill bridge the subs and then connect it to the monoblock. is that amp bridgable though? or does that not matter if i just bridge the subs? sorry for all of the questions but im just getting into all of this stuff

u/Jeearr · 1 pointr/CarAV

So this is the build I'm thinking of...
AMP: Pioneer GM-D8601
SUB: Kicker L7 12"
WIRING: KnuKonceptz 4GA Kit
BOX: ACS sealed

Thoughts? What kind of LOC would you suggest? (OR is a LOC a LOC?)

u/BigManBuddha · 1 pointr/CarAV

Thanks! I did a quick Google search and came across this kit, is this kit the same? Sorry, fairly new to the technical stuff.

u/BumpinSpeaks · 1 pointr/CarAV

Just to clearly.. bridging is just connecting two outputs into one input? And yes, here's the box amp [kit] (http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=pd_sim_e_3)

u/Kadori · 1 pointr/CarAV

orrrr if you want to up the budget a little this sub this amp and this wiring kit same box

u/jezzey · 1 pointr/CarAV

Get an amp that puts out ~300 Watts at 4ohm. Monoblock would be fine. You'll need a wire kit as well. I would probably go:


http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1375898672&sr=1-1&keywords=knukonceptz



http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_64239_Kicker-CX300.1-12CX3001.html


You could get away with 8 gauge, but why not put in 4 gauge. It sure beats ripping out the 8 gauge and installing 4 gauge if you plan on upgrading in the future.



Probably isn't the best choice in amp out there, but it is a good one and it will match your sub.

u/xblacklabel91 · 1 pointr/CarAV

It's no where near 1000w rms, but I second the 4 awg as a minimum.

This kit be perfect for your needs. Knu has true gauge wire (if not oversized) and their prices are great.

u/Ken_Mcnutt · 1 pointr/CarAV

Alright, this looks good? Also, Will the speakers have all the necessary harnesses to properly connect?

u/eim1213 · 1 pointr/CarAV

So I've decided to go with your recommendations of the E12 and the Fosgate R500X1D. I was wondering if I could save a few dollars on the wiring kit though, as it seems a bit pricey. I found a Belva kit here that's half the price. I've heard bad things about their amps+subs but this wiring kit has good reviews.

I also found this kit by KnuKonceptz that's similarly priced to the Belva kit. Does the kit you linked include something that makes it worth twice as much?

Also, would you be so kind as to recommend a good Line Out Converter?

EDIT: I see that the R500X1D has speaker level inputs. Does that mean I don't need to get a LOC? Do you have any input, /u/dangercdv ?

u/illuxion · 1 pointr/CarAV

I'm a fan of knukonceptz, there is nothing that beats them for the price and they are better than many much more expensive cables. For 500w, something like this 8 gauge 50A kit would work great, or perhaps this 4 gauge 80A kit to give you room to grow. Both of those kits are CCA(copper clad aluminum) which is lower power handling than OFC(oxygen free copper) If you really want room to grow Knukonceptz Kolussus OFC cable is the way to go, it's 2x the price as CCA, but 2x the power handing the 4 gauge OFC kit will do 150A with no problems.

u/rdwtoker · 1 pointr/CarAV

head unit:
either this or this

sub

box: biggest you can fit. this seems pretty convenient and match the sub specs pretty well, but I haven't really heard anything about the company.

amp

wiring

EDIT: also if you don't want to replace the head unit you could use the stock and take that route but i would say to stick with the rest of my recommendations.

u/dooshbox · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/kultureisrandy · 1 pointr/CarAV

Wiring

Obsidian Audio Subs

Amp

I'm not the best on amps but for a budget like that, this should be good enough. The best thing for a box is either to build it yourself because you won't get the sound you want from a prefab. Try to find someone in the area (Car shop, Car Audio place, Audio place) that can make you a box.

u/K9b1ack · 1 pointr/CarAV

Well, what you're asking for is pretty much the holy grail. Sound quality + loudness = money. Of course both of those traits tend to be subjective in a conversation like this. Here's my best

RF P1-2X12 Subs/enclosure

Alpine MRV-M500 amp

Wiring Kit

Optional subwoofer volume knob

u/TenPythons · 1 pointr/CarAV

Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0

is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP

these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY

And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR

Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4

I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me

u/Gamersteve · 1 pointr/CarAV

This one? I can go ahead and order it today. I just worry it wont have everything, or be compatible with my stereo unit since it's a cheap Dual Brand stereo. I've linked all the stuff I'm using in the original post.

u/AMQ1280 · 1 pointr/CarAV

No these are 6 1/2" component speakers. Im not really sure on the price range. Im new to car audio so I dont know what they typically cost. I would prefer to keep it under $150 if possible.

Also, I picked up a KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit for my sub amp. Will I need another one of these to install the speaker amp?


http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405102223&sr=8-1&keywords=knukonceptz+wiring+kit

u/massacreman3000 · 1 pointr/CarAV

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R250X1-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HX8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462994649&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+r250

This amp

That sib in the enclosure should work, but double check your behind the seats measurements.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII

This wiring kit should work, you might have to trim it a bit and/or cut the length slightly to fit in your truck, but all that means is you can use ask that extra wire to do a big three! Menards sells some dope ass 8/6/4/2/0 terminals, they're silver and like five bucks for 2 but they are amazing. You can crimp them on with a bolt cutter (be gentle) and back fill with solder (electrical, not plumbing) to make secure connections. It's copper clad aluminum, so it poetically won't work well to upgrade to, say, 1000 watts, but for 300/500 it'll work.

Head unit is good.

I'm sure you did the research on the harness, but did you get a dash kit? You'll probably find it around the place you got the harness.

Same thing with door spekkers. Disconnect the rear pair though, you'll have better staging just using the front anyhow. In the future, you may wish to amp them, but for now they should be okay. Skip the kick panels, your probably not going to care much about the extra noise.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Knoise-Kolossus-Deadener-100Mil/dp/B009KXF9MW

This sound deadener could make up for any missing volume I'm sure, but you probably won't need 30 sq ft, you might try they're 14 sq ft door kit. Make sure you clean the surfaces with alcohol and lint free towels first before applying it.

You could just skip that last one though, probably not worth it. .. but the Option is there.

So, in conclusion, measure, double check, triple check, then order.

u/DrGabooboo · 1 pointr/BuildaCarAVForMe

The head unit you have in there is great, and you shouldn't need to replace it.

If you don't really have people riding in the back your car, I would recommend just unhooking the rear speakers in the back and just run a pair of really nice components in the front Instead of spending more money on another pair of speakers and another amp (especially since you're in a coupe). Also, with speakers on the rear deck of your car, you will get noise cancelation from the subwoofer and the rear speakers because the sound waves coming from the back of the 6x9's are opposite from the ones coming from the front of the sub.

u/Dchandler50 · 1 pointr/CarAV

My vote for wires:

KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5LxHxbGGJ4F1E

I've ordered this kit about 4 times and it's never failed to satisfy.

u/mikesmith0890 · 1 pointr/CarAV

speaker adapter rings $12 pair x2

speaker wiring adapters pair $6 x2

radio harness with amp bypass $35

JBL P660c 6.5" component set for font doors $130

rockford punch coaxial for rear fill $60

knu konceptz 4awg amp kit $35
usually i wouldn't recommend copper clad aluminum but in your case it'll be fine

dash kit $40

sony headunit $110
several options for this, but this is a decent unit.

precision power sub amp $110

soundqubed hds210 10" sub dual 4ohm $105

belva .77cuft sealed 10" prefab enclosure $37

I am over budget here, but this was quick and dirty. there are a couple areas to save money. biggest being buying a sub and amp use on craigslist. if that is possible and gets you under budget, id recommend just about everything else as is.

u/NishkaMishka · 1 pointr/CarAV

Ok, let's reorganize your shopping list here...
so far you have spent $400...

Let's do this a little bit differently.

Your Headunit is fine, however with most pioneers they have shitty RCA grounds (i have one) and eventually will piss you off. The stereo only has 1 set of RCA outs, which is fine for subs but if you intend on upgrading later to a 4channel amp too it would be very beneficial to start off with a proper amount of RCA's. Here would be a very similarly priced and great sounding receiver with 2 rca outs and slightly higer voltage preamps which is always nice.

Now, for your subs...don't do 2 12s just yet. Hold off on that until you can actually afford to power 2 of them with the right wattage and space required.

Do this instead:

Same brand but higher model

With this amp

and this wiring kit.

Your box unless you want to build it should be somewhere around this size

No idea what the tuning on that box is..but should be ok.

All in all it is going to be about 80 bucks more...but this will do soooo much nicer.

u/rougetoxicity · 1 pointr/CarAV

Something like this 4Ga Would be more than enough. I bet you could get away with 8Ga too.