Reddit reviews Kool Stop Supra 2, Linear Pull Pads, Threaded Posts, Salmon, Pair
We found 8 Reddit comments about Kool Stop Supra 2, Linear Pull Pads, Threaded Posts, Salmon, Pair. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Universal road bike padWith adjustment washers for correct toe-inThreaded, salmon kool stop supra 2 bicycle brake shoes
Don't invest any money in this bike. Change the brake pads ... that'll get you some better braking power, but I would not put a penny in upgrades.
Ride it as-is until it breaks and then toss it. Even the most basic maintenance service on this bike will cost almost as much as the bike itself.
Edit: for brake pads, get a set of kool stop salmon
Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:
I commute too, and I'm going to suggest the two things I've done. The first is to get a bell and ding the shit out of it all the fucking time. It seriously gets people's attention. The second thing is to replace your front brake pads with KoolStop Salmon pads. The salmon pads squeal like a motherfucker, and are also fantastic at getting people's attention.
I feel your pain. People just don't pay attention to cyclists, and then they act like we're the assholes.
edit: added link to brake pads
These are my go-to pads. I had a hybrid commuter for 3 or so years (Marin Muirwoods). Didn't have a computer, so I don't know how many miles they lasted, but I would get around 9 months of commuting out of a set before they needed to be replaced. They held up pretty well in the snow and ice, too.
Kool Stop Salmon pads are debatably the best budget caliper brake pads. (available on amazon, as well as most bike shops)
try removing the pads from the brake to compare, as they come in various shapes and form factors, though typically either an 'insert' that is hammered in with an awl, or a pad with a screw on it that can just be threaded on.
it may also be worth watching the park tool brake video for handy tricks on how to set toe-in (avoid squeaky annoying and save wear on the pads) as well as any adjustment settings you might desire.
the form of brake on your bike, the direct pull caliper is adequate for long pull bike levers, and offer a large amount of braking force for a small amount of movement at the caliper, but the biggest pain I've experienced with them is when one side doesn't pull as much as the other, requiring you to remove it so you can place the spring on the next peg and hope its enough adjustment
>Brakes didn't do anything in the rain...
Get used to it haha. But seriously, cantilever's are known to be bad and worse when wet. I would recommend salmon kool-stop pads but that will only get you a bit better stopping. Look into mini v brakes for more stopping power.
The tire's look like tufo brand? The color shouldn't mean anything if that's the case. If you're commuting/pleasure riding/training you should be on clinchers (standard tires/not tubulars as it sounds like that's what you have) and have a tube/patch/tire lever/frame pump. I rode with just tubulars for a year or so, but I'm wiser now.
Truth is that you can replace almost any component on a bike, they are relatively simple machines. With the right tools disassembling a bike is pretty straightforward. The issue is how much money would an upgrade cost vs the difference you notice.
On this level of bike I would primarily optimize for comfort. The saddle and grips should be comfortable for you for whatever type of riding you prefer. The tire size and tread should match the terrain you ride. For example knobby mountain tires will be noisy and inefficient for street riding, high pressure road tires would be uncomfortable on rough terrain.
For a commuter bike you'll want to accessorize. Get a rack to carry your bag, get lights for night riding, get fenders if it rains a lot where you live.
Performance wise the only thing I would change on a bike like the 7.1FX is the brake pads. At least with my hybrid the pads were miserable, especially in wet weather. They would gather aluminum dust in little holes and scratch my rim. I got these: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Threaded-Salmon/dp/B000BMT2GU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411934931&sr=8-1&keywords=kool+stop+salmon brakes and I never had to worry about cleaning out the pads again.
If you end up doing a lot of biking (like 500-1000 miles a year), you may want to consider clipless pedals and shoes. This is a pretty common upgrade that makes your pedaling more efficient and will transfer to any newer bike.
There are maintenance items that you will likely have to replace or repair based on wear such as chains (1000 miles, or have wear measured by a chain tool), rear cassettes (should be after like 4-6000 miles if you replaced your chains on time, wheels (whenever spokes start popping and it can't be trued anymore), crankset/chainrings (probably unlikely, but maybe after 10k miles?).
I like to upgrade as things break, replace it with a higher quality component. I feel like this makes more sense financially than repairing something that already functions well.
I second the suggestion for cr-720s. decent stopping power for the price, great mud clearance, easy set up. I've had them on the nature boy i've raced for the past 3 years. And yes, change the pads. I use the Salmon Kool Stop pads and they work very well.