Reddit reviews Kreg MKJKIT Mini Kreg Jig Kit

I bought a special tool called a pocket hole jig which essentially drills a diagonal hole into the wood that hides the screw. I had never heard of it until this project, but it's pretty handy.

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-MKJKIT-Mini-Jig-Kit/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375465882&sr=8-2&keywords=pocket+hole+jig

I have it. The bit sucks. It'll make a hole but it won't be very clean. The jig mechanism is alright but is not as intuitive to set up like the kreg. The screws it comes with are Philips head instead of the typical Robertson. Not that it matters much since you will run out of the ones you need pretty quickly.

In all reality most of my pocket holes are made in 3/4 or 1-1/2 inch material and ive found myself using my kreg mini instead of breaking out the whole jig. Clamp it down, and go to town. It comes with a way sharper bit also. I never use the HF bit anymore even if I'm using the HF jig.

If youve never used the Kreg jig before then I'd say go for HF and save some cash. Id recommend shelling out 10 bucks for a Kreg bit though. So you're slowly creeping up on that higher price.

If you know what you'll be missing then spring for the Kreg. Like I said, 99% of the time I'll just use the mini since it is super simple to set up and get a move on with the project.


Edit: a good middle ground is the kreg R3. My dad has it and it is a sweet little unit!

I liked this bike shelf. But it costs more than $1200, and I wanted one that could hold two bikes.

Bought myself a $20 pocket hole jig and some pine boards, and had a double decker together in an afternoon.

Edit: another pic

Agreed, but you'd at least one this guy it comes with the proper bit.

If he was planning on making more than one I'd suggest the full jig, it makes things a lot easier and you don't have to measure every time to get the proper depth... well worth the hundred bucks IMO

hell, with the 40 brackets he used he probably could have paid for the jig and screws...

I would avoid those plates, they never seem to hold things tight enough, and they leave sharp corners everywhere, but if you insist on using them get some flat head (that refers to the shape of the head, not what kind of screw driver you use) or oval head screws.

There are a couple of ways I would approach this, depending on how you want it to look at the end. If you don't mind some screw heads in the top, attach a piece of lumber crosswise underneath, like picnic tables are built. Glue everywhere wood touches wood, and screw down through the top into the crosspieces. Depending on the tools you have available you can do anything you want with the crosspiece, angle the ends, round the corners, its up to you.
If screws in the top is a concern, then I would recommend a biscuit joiner. They're not the cheapest tool in the world, and they aren't a tool you'll use every day, but nothing beats them when you want to join two pieces of wood without visible fasteners.
If that's too much money you could consider a pocket hole jig, some woodworkers swear by them, some swear at them, personally I'm not a huge fan but they are cheap and if you glue the joints too it should work fine for your job.

Whatever you choose, get a sanding block and be prepared to sand those joints smooth. Some methods (biscuits) will make smoother joints than others, but they still need sanding to remove the tiny bump that will inevitably remain between the boards.

Edit Oh also, for clamping (which will only really be required if you do the biscuits), tremendous pressure is not required unless you are trying to straighten one of the boards when you clamp it. Put some cardboard or plywood on the edges to protect your tabletop, tie a rope around it loosely, then use a stick to twist the tied rope and put pressure on the joints. Leave the stick in and put something heavy against it to keep it from un-twisting. You'll probably want several of these for the length of your table.

Check this out http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00065WPP2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419211383&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=41E7C63NTJL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40 . its not a super fine woodworking tool, but its simple and will allow you to join boards cleanly.

You're willing to spend over $100 on the multple 3/4" plywood sheets for the build but you can't spend $20 on the jig to put it together?

If there is clearance on the bottom for the plates this is a good option. Otherwise, if you have a drill you could get a small Kreg jig for doing pocket holes and use that for the but joints.

amazon link

Here ya go: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00065WPP2?pc_redir=1405319666&robot_redir=1

You really don't have a lot of choice in order to support a desk that tall, the leg joints will have to be the strongest part of the desk. L Brackets won't work.

You don't need fancy joints, but you do need strong ones and you will need bracing on the legs. You could get a Pocket hole jig like this This allows you to join to panels fairly easy and strong (use glue also).

You could build a desk like this without the drawer only using the pocket joints.

You can't rent a pocket hole jig, but they run about $20 for the cheapest one. You'll also need to get a locking clamp situation, and you can get some ideas on clamps here. The one Kreg hocks is most ideal, and it runs around $30.

I don't know if Home Depot rents circular saws, but you can check. Considering that their rental tools are always beat to crap, you may be better off getting the cheapest Ryobi they offer, which is about $40.

I know this flies in the face of this subreddit, but if your goal is to have something like that stand for pretty cheap, I'd just buy the stand you posted or get something similar you like from Ikea. There's an entry level cost to building anything. I know, it sucks. You can fit this whole design onto a half sheet of MDF, the sides and top just won't be as thick, and it will run you around $19. But I'd still get a full sheet so you can make that circular saw jig. I'll tell you, though, that making a piece of stable furniture out of MDF is going to be a task in and of itself since it's basically a big sheet of compressed and glued sawdust.

You're better off doing it with plywood and screws, and there's a cost to be had with the screws and whatever paint you use.

Hopefully that helps! Maybe! Possibly!

Spend a few bucks on a pocket hole jig. You want to avoid screwing into end grain on most places. A basic jig will be about $20 and will work just fine.

A square clamp is also handy, but not necessary.

Sand the pieces before assembly will save you some trouble of sanding in the corners.

Wood glue will add a lot of strength, spread it evenly, screw the pieces together. Then use a rag with a little white vinegar to wipe off any glue that presses out before it dries.


Kreg MKJKIT Mini Kreg Jig Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xvrIAbVMZ9N52

Can-Do Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LJNJNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6xrIAbVATMDX4

You could always buy a Jig. Something like this

Edit: To be clear, I'm not recommending this specific Jig, just pointing out that such a tool exists

Is this the sort of thing you mean? Just clamp it in place and screw it together?

The picture looks like it has an allen key too, what is the purpose of it?

I would highly recommend a Kreg Jig. This little thing is super useful for making quality furniture. If you dont want to get that I would recommend clamps. You always need clamps.

Kreg MKJKIT Mini Kreg Jig Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RBZ4Cb55MTRYJ


https://youtu.be/zxMqtmoOVbY

Obviously drill the holes on the inside facing edge

sorry about the delay, I couldn't find it & then I forgot.

I'm guessing you have already found a solution, but you are welcome to this https://smile.amazon.com/Kreg-MKJKIT-Mini-Jig-Kit/dp/B00065WPP2?sa-no-redirect=1 minus the bit.

I don't think you need much more out of a pocket hole jig than that. Unless you're a production shop that is making a ton of cabinet face frames, I think a pocket hole jig should be unintrusive, flexible, and convenient.

Actually, I think this one is better because you get much more flexibility in how you can use it. It's easier to make holes at weird angles to the edge, and to fit into tight spaces.

Get a pocket hole jig and you'll get the same thing without having to buy brackets.

Kreg MKJKIT Mini Kreg Jig Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8ZSHDbRY2XENK

>d say unless I already had the jig, for this project I'd make do with finish nails or brads and have a plenty strong joint once glued.

It will take longer than the more expensive option, but you can a block that you clamp to the board with the drill bit for under 20 bucks. Its a single hole, but handy for fixing stuff. Also, there is another jig that has a better system than the kreg IMO out there... Armor something. Adjustments are single and easy. I have had mine for several years and used it some. I like, but finding myself using a mix of techniques for different reasons. Mostly because I can't hid the pockets or I'm going for a different look. Also exploring different joinery.

This a box of screws would be pretty cheap to build it.

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-MKJKIT-Mini-Jig-Kit/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=kreg+jig+drill+guide+block&pd_rd_i=B00065WPP2&pd_rd_r=e7de3652-f32f-4107-8fc5-29fda08a97ff&pd_rd_w=WpBs2&pd_rd_wg=jqJxf&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=SNJX6VEMAQQYQE2J1DA9&qid=1562688841&s=gateway

Yes! A few options...

1. Grab the mini kreg jig: here
   
   
2. Countersink and drive screws into the rungs from the outside of the main boards. Be sure to use wood glue before screwing. It will also be hard to keep the rungs in place doing it this way, so just take your time.
   
   
3. The last option would be to only use wood glue and clamps (or heavy items such as paint buckets). Glue the first board to the rungs, let it dry completely, then flip it over and glue/clamp the second board to the rungs. Just make sure you don't overload the thing because it won't have any hardware or advanced joinery holding it together!
   
   Hope that helps!

Few things to consider....

• Your choice of top may not be best. For that length it will start to sag. I would suggest going for a good quality G1S 3/4" plywood. For desks I've built in the past I actually bought a full sheet, ripped it lengthwise and then laminated the two pieces together with screws and glue. This results in a really freakin solid 1.5" thick top.
  
  
  
• As mentioned below, some skirting attached to the bottom will also prevent the desk from sagging and make it more rigid. If you go a full sheet a plywood you can cut 2x 24x96" strips for the top then cut a few 3" strips for your skirting. All cuts can be done for you at the home centre. Find yourself a kreg jig and some pocket hole screws. You then use the jig to cut holes in your skirting pieces and will fasten them to the underside on at least 3 sides of the desk. Use some glue too and this will be crazy rigid.
  
  
  
• What are you using for legs? Depending on the look you're going for you might want to consider using black metal pipe for legs. You can buy flanges like this and buy the lengths of pipe all pre-threaded and cut.
  
  
  
• As mentioned, whatever you're using for legs, the point at which they attach to the desk is critical and it will be the weak point in the structure. You're going to want to screw whatever brackets/flanges you use in from the bottom. The problem is that 3/4" is not very much wood to be screwing in to. Beefing up the corners is definitely a good idea.

Ok, here are some plans for you: Modular shelving plans
If you have any questions, let me know.

These require the use of a pocket hole jig. If you don't have one, get one. This one is the most basic kit.