Reddit reviews KYDEX V Sheet

I guess people want to know a little more. There's plenty of tutorials online, so do some google work if you want a more in-depth description.

Materials/Tools:

• Kydex V .080" (I got 12"x12" 8pack on amazon)
  
• Balsa wood (local hardware or craft store, I got mine at Menards)
  
• Clip (Pick which one you like, I found a 2 pack with hardware on amazon)
  
• Painters tape (had some lying around)
  
• vacuum food bags (You can use this or a foam press or zip-lock bag if you're careful)
  
• IR thermometer (I got one on amazon for 14, but you can find cheaper ones for sub $10)
  
• Dremmel or bandsaw
  
• Sandpaper (either hand sand or belt sander or sander attachment for dremel)
  
• heatgun for loosening a few places
  
  Process:
  
  
• Use the balsa wood to cover spots you don't want the holster to be formed in. I covered up the trigger area, the right side of the breech where most pistols eject casings, a line from the front to rear sights, and a line back from the slide release.
  
• Set your gun down on one of the kydex sheets to mark out how much material you need. I used a little less than half of one of the sheets. I then did a loose guess of "roll the gun over to see how far I need to go", and cut off what I needed.
  
• Get your vacuum bag or foam press or gallon zip-lock back ready. I think the food vacuum bags are easiest, but if you don't have one lying around, I've heard you can use a zip-lock bag, a rag, and a floor vacuum with a hose. Most tutorials online use a foam press. I'd say this gives you the best results, but costs the most, and requires replacing the foam after 5-10 holsters.
  
• Heat up the kydex to the proper temperature (The kydex V I linked I think forms best at 300-315), use the IR gun to get the temperature right. If you go too hot, the kydex will "burn", it gets all shiny (The stuff linked "burns" probably around 360-380).
  
• Once it gets up to temperature, pull it out, wrap your gun with it, and compress it. The kydex I linked has a shiny and a matte side. I used it with the matte side out, but if you like a glossy look, go for it. Like I said, I used a vacuum food bag (they're safe to use in the oven, so it can handle 320 degree plastic), your mileage will vary. If you use a zip-lock bag, you might need to put a rag around it so it doesn't melt the bag
  
• Let cool. Once cooled down, anywhere from 2 minutes to 15 minutes (depends if you use your actual gun or a mold gun, and if you use foam or etc). You can use the IR reader to see what temp it is, under 140 should be good, but other spots may be warmer. The gun acts as a heatsink. The hottest spot is where the kydex is all by it's lonesome.
  
• Pull your gun out and start going to work
  
• I used a bandsaw to cut out the general shape, and a dremel with a sanding head to get it just right.
  
• Sand to your heart's content.
  
• You may need to reheat the trigger area specifically if you're having trouble pulling the firearm out. I used my heatgun on low.
  
• Decide where you want to mount your clip(s). If you want to mount your clips where the gun is, before you mold, put some balsa wood there so the hardware doesn't scratch your gun.
  
• Drill holes for the hardware. I used a 13/64 bit which worked perfectly for my hardware which is supposedly 1/4, but use what ever bit you need for whatever hardware your clip needs.
  
• Make sure you have positive retention, but not so much where you can't pull the gun out. Kydex lets the gun out much easier with a quick pull, rather than a lengthy one. The main area for catching is the trigger guard. What ever is catching, heat it up just enough with the heatgun for it to open up.
  
  And then you're basically all done. It took me probably an hour or less. Total cost for one holster (because I was able to make 2 holsters off of one 12"x12" sheet), was about $6-$7, with the bulk of the cost being the clips. I'll try and answer any other questions others have.

You can get a 12"x24" sheet of Kydex for pretty cheap. Amazon carries ~1/8" thick sheet of the stuff for about $12.50. You can soften it in an oven or with a heat gun to shape it. It is easy to cut by scoring it with a utility knife and snapping it along the score line. You can also cut/drill holes in it to make attachment points for organization.

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Parts-KYDEX-V-Sheet/dp/B00KDMLJ0A

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

You can make your own fin grip pretty easily

Haha - I did feel a little weird purchasing from them, because I'm really not rucking that hard :)

Rather just trying to carry a bunch of stuff around a live out of a backpack.

I've seen some other folks purchase a kydex sheet, trace the current frame sheet, then cut it down.

As a word to the wise, be careful if using a dremel, especially with thicker stuff ( I used .128" Kydex). Cutting wheels like to pull away and spew melted material and dust. The stuff isn't exactly compliant, which is why they use it for cutting boards.

I simply traced out the material off an existing frame sheet and cut it on a scroll saw. Then cleaned edges with a file. You can find a link to .118" Kydex from Amazon here. I got some in .128" from a material supply place. The thicker it is, the more rigid you'll get.

For a holster have you thought of using kydex? You could build a perfect little holster that looks like it was made for it. The stuff is really easy/fun to work with.

Does this light put out 180L with a normal 1.5/1.2v AAA or just with a 10440 @ 3.7V?

As far as a suggestion for a 10440 this one works for me. Do not bother with Trustfire. Both of my Trustfire 104440s are shot.

I don't think you're going to find much with this little guy as far as mods go. Really just playing around with how long it can handle a 10440 will be fun. Be careful I have had a few AAA/10440 flashlights that will only function on 104440 after using one in it and the other flat out stopped working. (Thorfire I think it was.) Just a reminder to not let it heat up too much is all. My OLight AAA goes with me everywhere even when I have my S1 clipped in my pocket just because it's so small and a great thing to hand to someone when they ask "can I use your flashlight".

http://www.amazon.com/KYDEX-Sheet-0-028-Thick-Black/dp/B00KDMLJ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451183913&sr=8-1&keywords=Kydex

http://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1451183913&sr=8-10&keywords=Kydex

I used things like these, my oven, and a YouTube tutorial. Kydex, when heated is very pliable, and cools solid. If you mess up, you can heat and remold again. You only need .06 thickness, any thicker is left to gun holsters. I then use an old belt to help mold a g-clip from a Kydex strip, and thats really it. I haven't bought a sheath in many years. Any further questions, just reply, I'll check back in the morning.