Reddit Reddit reviews LDR Industries 530 2050 Aerator, One Pack, Silver

We found 5 Reddit comments about LDR Industries 530 2050 Aerator, One Pack, Silver. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Tools & Home Improvement
Rough Plumbing
Faucet Parts
Faucet Aerators
LDR Industries 530 2050 Aerator, One Pack, Silver
Faucet to hose aerator adaptor allows connection to standard 3/4-inch male hose threadConverts standard male (15/16-inch x 27 thread) or female (55/64-inch x 27 thread) aerator to 3/4-inch male hose thread or 15/16-inch x 27 male threadLead free compliant - meets ca's Ab1953 and vt's 18 vsa low lead lawsHose adapter for male/female/maleLimited lifetime warranty
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5 Reddit comments about LDR Industries 530 2050 Aerator, One Pack, Silver:

u/t0x1k_x · 4 pointsr/Plumbing

You will need to remove your aerator and replace it with a 15/16 thread x make hose thread faucet adapter.

Like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BHZLR4K/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile

From there you can leave that on and install a new aerator on that too allow for easy switch outs.

u/jmysl · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

I bought one of those, but my threads are buried in the faucet, so the flange on the one i got prevents me from using it! do you know of one that is a bit longer? FTR i got this one https://www.amazon.com/LDR-530-2050-Aerator-Adapter/dp/B00BHZLR4K/

u/sgregg21 · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

GAME CHANGER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHZLR4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Connect this to a faucet in your hose (preferably the sink by the tub, so you can drain there) and connect your hose connection on the wort chiller tubing to it.

u/freewaytrees · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Pretty sure this is what you're after

LDR 530 2050 Faucet to Hose or Aerator Adapter Lead Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHZLR4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mVAKzbPBW7GZP

u/adaminc · 1 pointr/firewater

Sorry I'm late to respond, but if you want to reply to someone, you need to click the "reply" link under their comment. Then add your comment as a reply to them, it will notify them you replied, and they'll know the reply is for them.

This reply is probably a bit long, lol. But I'm bored, so I go into some detail, and give some suggestions on tools n' such you can use for various things. You don't have to use them, obviously.

===

  • Yes, break down all the starches before fermenting. Yeast can't use starches, they will release some enzymes, but none that will break down starches. The enzymes that break down starches come from the grain itself, or you add them. This is why you do the iodine test after mashing, but before fermenting, it is testing for the presence of starches, if it's blue, than all the starches haven't been converted and the yeast won't turn those starches into alcohol. So you need to continuing mashing, maybe add enzymes if you haven't already.

  • 2lbs of sugar should be enough for the batch.

  • The barley does need to be milled. The distiller shop should be able to crush/mill it for you, or if there is a feed supply store nearby, they might be able to do it for you. But whole grains aren't going to work because the starches will be trapped inside. Grain seeds are essentially made up of 3 parts: bran, endosperm, and germ. The bran is the outer shell that protects everything but it also contains some vitamins, the endosperm is where the starches and enzymes are contained, and the germ is where the actual plant embryo is, as well as vitamins and fats are contained. Milling/crushing/grinding is what breaks that bran off, and will make the endosperm (starches and enzymes) available to be dissolved into the water. If that bran is still there, everything will be trapped inside.

  • The enzymes I mentioned, you would add them before pitching (adding) the yeast, to help break down the starches in the grains. I would specifically add them at the 150F (65C) mark, that is within the safe temperatures for both of them. Glucoamylase will start to denature at 158F (70C), and alpha-amylase will start to denature at around 161F (72C), and if you didn't know, denatured enzymes (proteins) don't work anymore.

    ====

    I do my mashing in a 5gal stainless steel pot, and I do my fermenting in these 5gal buckets (foodsafe from Home Depot). I use these lids, as it has an extendable spout which is the perfect diameter for a No. 7 size drilled rubber stopper, which I stick the airlock in.

    For the actual mashing process. I do the following. So, not far off from what you do, except the starting temperature, since going above 161F can damage some of your enzymes and slow things down. These steps haven't failed me yet.

  • Heat the water up to 158F (70C)
  • Add grains when it's at that temp or slightly below it.
  • Let it cool down to 150F (65C), and hold it there for an 1h to 1.5h. But it has to stay at ~150F the entire time.
  • Pull out the grains (which are in a brew bag, mentioned below).
  • I personally do an iodine test at this point, before moving on to cooling. To see if there are any starches left over. If there is still starch, and I haven't added enzymes already, I will add enzymes, 1/2tsp each (alpha and gluco), and I'll hold it at 150F for another 30min.
  • I let mine cool down to between 70F (20C) and 75F (24C), depending on the room temp. You can use an immersion chiller if you have one (I made mine, explanation below), or an ice bath, if you want to speed up cooling it down from 150F to 75F.
  • Then pitch the yeast.

    I mix up the yeast culture as soon as I hit the 150F temp of the mash, by pouring the yeast (1tbsp) into 2cups of warm water with a pinch of sugar, a pinch of DAP (aka diammonium phosphate), and a pinch of Magnesium sulfate (aka epsom salt, I bought at walmart in a large jug). Then I just let it sit while the yeast rehydrates and starts doing it's thing. When the mash is down to around 80F, I pour that mash into a sanitized 5gal bucket, then when it hits between 75F to 70F, I pour the yeast mix into the mash in the bucket, close the lid, put in the stopper+airlock, and leave it alone for about 3 days, before I check on it.

    When I check on it, if it has slowed down significantly, or is stuck. I do the following:

  1. I will check the temp, and warm/cool it if needed to get it back to between 70F (20C) and 75F (24C).
  2. If the temp isn't off, I will check pH, if it's between 5 and 5.5, everything is good, if not I use citric acid (pull it down) or calcium carbonate (pull it up) to fix pH. Closer to 5 is better than closer to 5.5, ideally 5.2 to 5.5 is the best. Some people will use oyster shells and add them before pitching yeast, to act as a pH buffer. It does work, since they are essentially made up of calcium carbonate. I'd recommend soaking in water+bleach (10% solution, 10mL bleach, 90mL water) for 30min then rinsing under tap water, then letting them dry out, if you go this route, to make sure any bacteria are dead. Then you can put them in the ferment bucket in their own small brew bag, under the big brew bag, or in one of those stainless steel tea strainers, so you don't need to fish them out of the grains/trub afterwards which is a pain in the ass. Ideally, by the end of the ferment, if you don't want to distill it right away (within a few days), you can let the pH drop as low as 4, to stave off any bacterial infection.
  3. If pH is fine, it usually means there isn't enough nutrients, so I will put in 1/2tsp of DAP, and 1/2tsp of Magnesium sulfate, for 5gal that is. Might have to adjust pH after adding those.

    That usually accounts for all the stuck fermentation issues.

    ===

  • For my immersion chiller. I use a 72" length of uncoated corrugated stainless steel tubing I bought from Houzz, and then I bought a faucet to garden hose adapter, and 2 of these 3/4" NPT to garden hose adapters. So it goes Sink faucet > faucet adapter > garden hose > hose to NPT adapter > CSST > hose to NPT adapter > garden hose > tub drain. There are other ways to do it, but I had the CSST already just laying around unused. You could probably just buy a piece of copper pipe, bend it into a coil, stretch rubber tubing over each end, and then stretch one end over the faucet, and let the other end hang over the sink/tub drain. I prefer the immersion chiller to the ice bath, or just waiting around.

  • I also don't know if you have what's called a brew bag, but it makes handling the grains easier. You put the bag in the bucket, then fill the bucket with your water, then pour the grains into the bag/bucket. Then when you are done, and want to take the grains out, you just lift out the bag, let it drain, you can squeeze the bag, or do whats call lautering where you pour water through it (you can put the bag in a large colander if you want to lauter), and voila. A lot easier than without the bag, and having to scoop all the grains out. This is the one I have, you can see what I was describing in the photos.

  • Some people like to do what is called distilling "on grain", where they will pour the entire mash, with some grains or all the grains, into the distillation boiler. But if you aren't using a jacketed boiler, you run the risk of burning the grains, which adds an acrid taste and can ruin things. I don't do this, I use an immersion heater in my boiler, so I distill "off grain", as I use the brew bag and pull the grains out before doing into the boiler.

  • For controlling the mashing temperatures, I use a Sous Vide cooker that I own for cooking, it can go between 32F and 210F. Tons of them on Amazon these days, and with a bit of aluminum door screen around the openings to keep the big grains out, benefit of the sous vide is it will heat and stir for you. If it's too expensive for you now, Amazon always has deals on them for Black Friday/Cyber Monday, or for Xmas. But you can just keep adding hot water and stirring periodically as the temp drops, I've done that before too. Or you can use a hot plate, which I have also done. I've never used the stove top (electric), or a gas burner, but I imagine it's possible to do with that as well, but probably a bit more difficult. Whatever floats your boat, and works for you.

    ===

    Hope this helps!